Ski-Patroller

I have a 1969 or 70 PX10 which I have upgraded with Simplex LJ Derailures, Cinneli Stem, New TTT (wider handle bars) and a second (extra) set of clincher wheels (6spd Campy Hubs)

I also had the Stronglight cranks re-threaded to standard threads so I could put Look pedals on.

I wonder if I am ruining the collectibilty of this bike as I improve the rideablility? I also wonder if the Brooks Pro Seat might be worth more than the rest of the bike?

I have had this bike since it was new, but don't ride it much anymore. The Simplex LJ just doesn't compare with Ultegra and Dura Ace

el twe

Ruining collectability? Probably. But someone will be happy to get a nice old 531 frame with updated components...

Poguemahone

Those particular upgrades, in particular the LJs, would probably increase the value of the bike. Pedal threading may or may not. I wouldn't get hyped about it; as el twe points out, the 531 frame is valued in and of itself; and a model that early should have the fancy Nervex lugs.

TysonB

Ski,

How much does this Pug weigh with the mods?

Tyson
Cushing, Oklahoma

John E

Swap all of the components you wish, but don't mess up the frame. If you are worried about collectibility, keep and safely store all of the original components you remove. I haven't hesitated at all to upgrade my far less collectible PKN-10.

Ski-Patroller

It is about 24 lbs with the Clincher Tires (Hutchison Carbon Comps) and Shimano (Look Compatible) pedals. I thought they were supposed to weigh 21-22 lbs when new, but the only thing that should be heavier now, are the wheels and pedals (they are pretty stout). I've still got sewup wheels and 4 spare Mavic Sewup rims. I need to build up a new set of wheels, since the original rims are pretty trashed.

It does have the fancy Nervex Lugs.

It is a pretty big frame, 58cm from C to C.

USAZorro

The rims and the saddle could account for about a pound and a half of that difference. Which rims are trashed - the original tubulars?

Ski-Patroller

The Saddle is the original Brooks Pro. It is still in good shape, and I used it one day on Cycle Oregon on my Felt.

The original Mavic tubular rims don't have good braking surfaces anymore, and are not super straight, but I have 4 new Mavic rims that look identical, except they may be hard anodized since they are light grey in color. I think I will build up a new set of tubular wheels this winter. I've gotten kind of spoiled by the modern foldable clichers though.

Does anyone know what a 1969 PX10 would have weighed from the factory?

3alarmer 

I just reworked a PX-10 with some similar modifications. Here are some pictures:



I have owned a number of the various PX bikes fro Peugeot over the years, of various vintages and configurations.

When I found this one from the original owner last year, I thought it looked nice enough to deal with some paint issues,
and the fact that it had been ridden a lot of miles, so many of the components were worn out.

I can say that I'm very pleased with the way it turned out, not so much cosmetically (I hate painting), but in the
way it feels and rides with the 27" rims, Panaracer 1 1/4" tires (i have to deflate the rear to install the wheel),
and the much more solid feel of slightly updated stem and bars from Asia..

I've not encountered Simplex rear dropouts like these before, but I'm sure others of you have. The bike
was originally purchased by it's first owner in Germany, from a small shop that catered to racers.



All in all, quite solid feeling and very functional.


I know there are a lot of others of these that have been modified as riders rather than museum pieces,
and would hope that some of you might choose to show and explain the rationale for your modifications.

rootboy 

FWIW, my 71/72 PX-10 weighed 21 pounds stock.

andyfloyd

I have a 1976 PX-10 its a 60cm I believe. It weighs 23.4 lbs with the original tubular super champion wheelset, Ideale 90 Saddle, SLJ Derailleurs. I thought it would be a little more lightweight than 23.4lbs but thats not bad for a larger frame steel road bike. The px10 feels VERY lightweight when you ride it though and that is what matters here.

repechage

Way back, few bikes weighed their claimed weight, maybe in the smallest size they got close.

A wider capacity freewheel can add weight pretty quickly, a typical clincher rim will be 100 or more grams heavier than the period tubular rim.
The pedals on the bike originally were as you noted lighter. A Cinelli stem was not owned for its light weight, narrow bars, I can keep going.
It all adds up. Most of it really does not matter.

Grand Bois

I'm seeing a PX10 with fairly minor and completely reversible modifications.

It's hard to believe that you've owned a number of PX bikes and never encountered a Simplex dropout!

Here's a list of the original parts on my PX10:

The headset

3alarmer 

........I've seen Simplex drops, just not like these:

niuoka

sitting here tonight, im glad I came across this thread. As I have been pondering the fate of a px-10 that I found, that is a frankenbike single speed ( because no derailuers, and short chain). But something about that bike, the frame and the frame connections, and the lightness impressed me. Its been for sale for over a month in the rural town I live in. If its still there when I get home, in a week, I think I just might pick it up. It will still be a frankenbike but I have enough old parts to make it a functional 10 speed again
right now its got the oringal frame , white with chrome fork tips and drop outs, the original stem , handlebars, crankset, front brake.
currently has some kind of rear brake set up, aluminum American wheels, forget brand, Kendra tires.
Plus I get a bit of pride fixing old things up.

Grand Bois

The two on the left are the later version. The one on the right appears to have been drilled slightly crookedly for an adjuster. It has the Simplex-only hanger while the later ones are universal.

kunsunoke 

My own PX-10 has a white-pearl powder finish, Suntour Superbe Pro derailleurs, Accushift bar-cons, aero levers, Sugino forged cranks and Conti Fat Sprint tubes on low-flange Gyromaster hubs. It works like a modern bike (mostly) but rides a hell of a lot better, with much of the original / decrepit boom era appearance.

I never have to worry about scratching the evil original French paint. I never have to worry about the Simplex mechs breaking and/or launching themselves into the rest of my drivetrain. My pedals are MIJ from MKS, and so are easily rebuildable. The stem is forged (not the original gravity-cast AVA abortion death stem) and the bars are capable of taking abuse, thanks to superior Japan metallurgy.

Originality is fine if you're building a museum piece, but it doesn't work so well when you're trying to stay on the road. Many of the original French parts were excrement. I don't feel bad in the slightest having avoided them.

bikemig 

Some of those old french parts were also pretty darn good like the hubs, cranks, headsets, etc. The super lj derailleurs were nice. But leaving aside the editorial comment about french parts, I agree. If you are going to ride a bike, who cares whether it is "original" or "collectible" etc. Don't let the C&V thought police on BF ruin your life.

JimPeltier

So I have a 1976 PX10 that I campaigned in the mid 80's and have kept usable as I aged. I'm now 72 and live in a mountainous region of B.C., Canada.
To that end, over the years I did the following, replaced the Simplex with Campy NR, Brakes with Dia-Compe side pulls, seat with a Selle Itallia Turbo, then with a Specialized Romin, seatpost with alloy, wheels to clincher, then to Fulcrum. Got the frame powdercoated and all new decals from Greg Softley. Added a Wolftooth Road Link and upped the rear cassette to a 9 speed 12-36. Changed out the Stronglight 93 52/42 for a Velo Orange Grand Cru Drillium 50/34 and cartridge BB.
I still have most of the old parts stored away and the frame has not been modified. It's just that its now rideable under all conditions and its pushing 45 years old.

randyjawa 

The short answer is yes, upgrading/modifying does negatively impact the value of a vintage road bicycle. However, in the OP's case the only error would be the re-tapping of the pedals. That act cannot be reversed and that is not good. However...

I am a purist "keep it original guy" but I did the pedal threads on my 1973 PX10. I ride my bikes and find the SPD system to be so much better/safer/efficient than rodents in traps...



And, on my 1968 Legnano Grand Premio, and my 1958 Rabeneick, though I did not have to re-tap for these bikes, I do run SPDs and you can bet your life that when the temperature increases a bit (minus 28 degrees with a wind chill = minus38 right now), the old pedals are coming off so that I can run my trusty SPDs...

Bianchigirll 

Nice bikes. You do realize Ski Patroller hasn’t posted since ‘05

Bianchigirll 

Good Morning and welcome to the forums. Sounds like so solids upgrades to make a classic more functional to your needs.

bikemig 

Very neat. You might want to start your own thread, post some pics, and talk about your mods. I like reconfiguring old bikes to ride in challenging terrain.

randyjawa 

I, often times miss looking at how old a thread is. In this case - another mistake (sort of) on my part. That said, sometimes a really old thread will be revived for what ever reason, usually by a newbie looking for information. To many hard core Bike Former members, this is the venerable "zombie" thread but not to the new people. Hence, I do try to assist even if my thoughts fall on deaf ears.

I will try to train this old dog about the presence and value of vintage threads in question. Of course, you know what they say about "teaching old dogs new tricks".

francophile 

Holy cow! This thread is old enough to drive a car!