Need to diagnose problem
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Need to diagnose problem
I posted this on the Bicycle Mechanics forum here but it’s quickly scrolling down the page so I’ll try here:
I own a 2017 Specialized Roubaix SL4 Sport which I bought NOS earlier this year. It uses the 105 5800 11speed with 11-32t derailleurs and shifters and Praxis cranks and BB.
I’m having an issue with a sporadic clicking sound when pedaling. It doesn’t seem to be related to the gear I’m in and I just had the dealer adjust the derailleurs. They shift perfectly and there’s no chain rub.
Any thoughts on where this clicking is coming from?
I own a 2017 Specialized Roubaix SL4 Sport which I bought NOS earlier this year. It uses the 105 5800 11speed with 11-32t derailleurs and shifters and Praxis cranks and BB.
I’m having an issue with a sporadic clicking sound when pedaling. It doesn’t seem to be related to the gear I’m in and I just had the dealer adjust the derailleurs. They shift perfectly and there’s no chain rub.
Any thoughts on where this clicking is coming from?
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 8,550
Bikes: Wilier Izoard XP (Record);Cinelli Xperience (Force);Specialized Allez (Rival);Bianchi Via Nirone 7 (Centaur); Colnago AC-R Disc;Colnago V1r Limited Edition;De Rosa King 3 Limited(Force 22);DeRosa Merak(Red):Pinarello Dogma 65.1 Hydro(Di2)
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 551 Post(s)
Liked 277 Times
in
145 Posts
Check the end cable on your FD. Sometimes it sticks out and hits your pedal or your shoe. Tighten your seat post. Tighten your skewers. Check your bottom bracket.
Likes For tagaproject6:
#3
So it is
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Westminster, CO
Posts: 21,327
Bikes: Luzerne, 684, Boreas, Wheelhouse, Alize©®, Bayamo, Cayo
Mentioned: 246 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11393 Post(s)
Liked 4,729 Times
in
2,756 Posts
Along with the above, double check pedal to crank interface. Light coat of lubricant, and tight.
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thank you. Pedals are tight, it’s not the cable or seatpost. Definitely not the skewers. The sound is coming from the pedal area. How do I check the BB? If it’s that, I’d take it under warranty to the dealer. My suspicion is it’s the BB.
#5
Coffin Dodger
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 2,138
Bikes: Motobecane Vent Noir, Lynskey R345, Serotta Nova Special X
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 794 Post(s)
Liked 292 Times
in
143 Posts
Also check your chainring and crank spider hardware, to be sure they're tight.
#6
Junior Member
Often “creaking” noises can be difficult to isolate due to the tendency of sounds to resonate through carbon frames. However, if it is the BB, you should be able to confirm that on a maintenance stand or perhaps in a quiet corner on a shop floor. Try twisting the cranks and pulling and pushing them side to side. There should be no play at all. Any play or noises probably indicate the bearings need attention. Could be dry, corroded, dirty, loose, infiltrated by water, or a combination of issues. It’s also remotely possible that the crank arm could come loose from the axle, which would need replacing. My Praxis BB needed cleaning and repacking at about one year. Praxis recommends yearly BB maintenance anyway. You definitely should be able to get the BB fixed under warranty.
Good luck!
Good luck!
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Allen, TX
Posts: 2,632
Bikes: 2021 S-Works Turbo Creo SL, 2020 Specialized Roubaix Expert
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 762 Post(s)
Liked 4,026 Times
in
1,426 Posts
If it’s a faint ticking noise, check that the ends of your shoelaces aren’t slapping the crank. I had that happen once.
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Likes For MSchott:
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 68
Bikes: Fat City Monster Fat, BMC Roadmachine, Trek Emonda, Trek 2100, Specialized Rockhopper
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
If you have clipless pedals, check the cleats. Sometimes they loosen. Also, even though you think it's coming from bottom bracket area, check stem, headset and brifter bolts.
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
It doesn’t happen when I coast, only when I’m pedaling. I’ve recently tightened the stem to the bars and the headset was recently repacked. I’m 90% confident it’s in the crank area.
#11
• —
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Land of Pleasant Living
Posts: 12,213
Bikes: Shmikes
Mentioned: 59 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10147 Post(s)
Liked 5,840 Times
in
3,144 Posts
Is it a single click or a series?
Is it timelocked to the pedal stroke or variable?
Is it load dependent, and if so, is it with load on one side or both?
I probably won’t have any useful ideas, but these are essential questions.
Is it timelocked to the pedal stroke or variable?
Is it load dependent, and if so, is it with load on one side or both?
I probably won’t have any useful ideas, but these are essential questions.
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Its a few clicks per revolution, it’s not really load dependent but if I focus on a smooth stroke it seems to lessen but not go away. It’s variable to the pedal stroke.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Allen, TX
Posts: 2,632
Bikes: 2021 S-Works Turbo Creo SL, 2020 Specialized Roubaix Expert
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 762 Post(s)
Liked 4,026 Times
in
1,426 Posts
Have you checked the torque on the Praxis cranks? The Praxis cranks on my Diverge weren’t tightened to spec (too loose) which also caused some creaking.
#14
Member
#15
• —
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Land of Pleasant Living
Posts: 12,213
Bikes: Shmikes
Mentioned: 59 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10147 Post(s)
Liked 5,840 Times
in
3,144 Posts
Yeah, so not the FD, and probably load dependent. First thing I’d do is remove the rear wheel and lube all the dropout, hub, and skewer/axle surfaces. Then check the chainring bolts, but that won’t be it.
#16
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
2 Posts
Just a random thought as it happened to me...
If you have nuts on the valve stems to hold them in place, make sure they're tight. I had a clicking noise once/twice per revolution that was coming from "somewhere" down and behind my ears. Took 15 minutes on the stand in super quiet garage to locate it. Felt like a tool once I realized how simple it was. A little blue loctite and away I quietly went.
If you have nuts on the valve stems to hold them in place, make sure they're tight. I had a clicking noise once/twice per revolution that was coming from "somewhere" down and behind my ears. Took 15 minutes on the stand in super quiet garage to locate it. Felt like a tool once I realized how simple it was. A little blue loctite and away I quietly went.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: HdG, MD
Posts: 197
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Just a random thought as it happened to me...
If you have nuts on the valve stems to hold them in place, make sure they're tight. I had a clicking noise once/twice per revolution that was coming from "somewhere" down and behind my ears. Took 15 minutes on the stand in super quiet garage to locate it. Felt like a tool once I realized how simple it was. A little blue loctite and away I quietly went.
If you have nuts on the valve stems to hold them in place, make sure they're tight. I had a clicking noise once/twice per revolution that was coming from "somewhere" down and behind my ears. Took 15 minutes on the stand in super quiet garage to locate it. Felt like a tool once I realized how simple it was. A little blue loctite and away I quietly went.
#18
bike whisperer
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Melbourne, Oz
Posts: 9,537
Bikes: https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=152015&p=1404231
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1523 Post(s)
Liked 716 Times
in
508 Posts
Sounds like maybe seat or seatpost. How much post is in the seat tube? If it extends far below the clamp, trimming it might do the trick.
__________________
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: In the foothills of Los Angeles County
Posts: 25,246
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8259 Post(s)
Liked 8,981 Times
in
4,452 Posts
Take the cranks off and lube everything in the bb, or have someone do it for you.
Likes For sheddle:
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Likes For MSchott:
#22
bike whisperer
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Melbourne, Oz
Posts: 9,537
Bikes: https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=152015&p=1404231
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1523 Post(s)
Liked 716 Times
in
508 Posts
Could still be that, particularly if there isn't enough grease on the post.
__________________
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Likes For Kimmo:
#23
Advocatus Diaboli
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Wherever I am
Posts: 8,631
Bikes: Merlin Cyrene, Nashbar steel CX
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4729 Post(s)
Liked 1,531 Times
in
1,002 Posts
I typically recommend doing one leg pedaling (disconnecting one foot from the other pedal completely), then swapping legs. This might at least tell you it's a pedal/cleat vs BB thing.
Likes For Sy Reene:
#24
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Here’s an update. I followed most of your suggestions. Tightened the cleats, lubed and tightened the pedals, chainrings and other driveline components. Made sure the FD cable was out of the way. Checked the seatpost and more.
Problem is is still there. It doesn’t show until after about 10 miles but it’s still there. It’s more prominent under heavier load and relatedly up hills. The sound is between a creak and a click and is worse as the load increases like in the big ring, 13 tooth sprocket. Any more thoughts?
Problem is is still there. It doesn’t show until after about 10 miles but it’s still there. It’s more prominent under heavier load and relatedly up hills. The sound is between a creak and a click and is worse as the load increases like in the big ring, 13 tooth sprocket. Any more thoughts?
#25
just another gosling
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 19,526
Bikes: CoMo Speedster 2003, Trek 5200, CAAD 9, Fred 2004
Mentioned: 115 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3884 Post(s)
Liked 1,936 Times
in
1,382 Posts
That's usually spoke crossings. PITA but no harm.
__________________
Results matter
Results matter