Bicycle issues
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Bicycle issues
Hello,
I have a Public Bike, V7. The tubes in the rear, wear out within a couple of days time. Its always in the same spot, on the place where the nipple meets the tube. I've take it to a mechanic and neither one of us can find any reason why this should be. There doesn't seem to be any noticeable deffect. Has anyone seen this before? what can I do to fix it?
Christopher Williams
I have a Public Bike, V7. The tubes in the rear, wear out within a couple of days time. Its always in the same spot, on the place where the nipple meets the tube. I've take it to a mechanic and neither one of us can find any reason why this should be. There doesn't seem to be any noticeable deffect. Has anyone seen this before? what can I do to fix it?
Christopher Williams
#2
The dropped
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 2,144
Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold) : 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1739 Post(s)
Liked 1,014 Times
in
696 Posts
What pressure are you using in the tires? What's the pressure range on the side wall?
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18351 Post(s)
Liked 4,502 Times
in
3,346 Posts
Are you riding the bike after the tire starts going soft?
What angle is the valve when you stop to repair the flat?
My thought is that you could have something else wrong, like a radial tire wire that gives you a slow leak.
Then, as the tire starts going flat, you start getting slippage of the tire, and tear the valve.
What angle is the valve when you stop to repair the flat?
My thought is that you could have something else wrong, like a radial tire wire that gives you a slow leak.
Then, as the tire starts going flat, you start getting slippage of the tire, and tear the valve.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,056
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4195 Post(s)
Liked 3,837 Times
in
2,295 Posts
"nipple meets the tube"
To me this suggests that the spoke nipples are somehow abrading the tube. Rim strips are meant to cover nipple ends (and any access hole for said nipple to be inserted) so tubes are protected. Is there a rim strip present? Andy
To me this suggests that the spoke nipples are somehow abrading the tube. Rim strips are meant to cover nipple ends (and any access hole for said nipple to be inserted) so tubes are protected. Is there a rim strip present? Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
#5
Generally bewildered
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Eastern PA, USA
Posts: 3,037
Bikes: 2014 Trek Domane 6.9, 1999 LeMond Zurich, 1978 Schwinn Superior
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1152 Post(s)
Liked 341 Times
in
251 Posts
Andy, I think that chrisusmc is referring to the valve stem when he writes "nipple", not the spoke nipple. And I'm always 100% correct and spot-on, except on days with names containing "y". (That is, I could be wrong -- Chris, where exactly are your leaks appearing? Valve stem, or spoke nipple?)
chrisusmc, if you are indeed referring to a leak at a spoke nipple (the metal things that screw onto the end of each spoke), then Andrew nailed it: there should be a rubber strip running around the inside of the rim, covering those nipples.
If the leak is persistently at the air inflation stem, and you do have a rim strip, then I would check the edge of the air stem hole in the rim for sharp edges, or for being too tight or loose or you have a tube/rim mismatch.
As to mismatch: A brief check of pictures of this bike show that it uses Schrader valves (that is, air valves like in a car tire). There are also tubes that use Presta valves (smaller diameter, with a little valve nut that you loosen to allow inflation/deflation, or tighten to seal). If your bike has wheels with holes drilled for Schrader valve stems and you are using tubes with Presta valves, that could be an issue. The hole would be too big for the valve stem in your tubes. Use Schrader valve tubes, or if you must use Presta, get a Schrader to Prester adapter bushing for each wheel:
https://www.amazon.com/Schrader-Presta-Rubber-Rim-Hole-Adaptor/dp/B000XNZU1S?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-ffab-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B000XNZU1S
chrisusmc, if you are indeed referring to a leak at a spoke nipple (the metal things that screw onto the end of each spoke), then Andrew nailed it: there should be a rubber strip running around the inside of the rim, covering those nipples.
If the leak is persistently at the air inflation stem, and you do have a rim strip, then I would check the edge of the air stem hole in the rim for sharp edges, or for being too tight or loose or you have a tube/rim mismatch.
As to mismatch: A brief check of pictures of this bike show that it uses Schrader valves (that is, air valves like in a car tire). There are also tubes that use Presta valves (smaller diameter, with a little valve nut that you loosen to allow inflation/deflation, or tighten to seal). If your bike has wheels with holes drilled for Schrader valve stems and you are using tubes with Presta valves, that could be an issue. The hole would be too big for the valve stem in your tubes. Use Schrader valve tubes, or if you must use Presta, get a Schrader to Prester adapter bushing for each wheel:
https://www.amazon.com/Schrader-Presta-Rubber-Rim-Hole-Adaptor/dp/B000XNZU1S?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-ffab-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B000XNZU1S
Last edited by WizardOfBoz; 09-04-19 at 12:36 PM.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: northern Deep South
Posts: 8,895
Bikes: Fuji Touring, Novara Randonee
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2599 Post(s)
Liked 1,924 Times
in
1,208 Posts
You might take a chamfer or some (rough) sandpaper and smooth the valve hole down on the rim.
If it's on the outside of the wheel (contacting the tire), look for a small cut in the tire. Sometimes the tire can "chew" up the tube until it develops a leak, usually in 3-4 days IME.
If it's on the outside of the wheel (contacting the tire), look for a small cut in the tire. Sometimes the tire can "chew" up the tube until it develops a leak, usually in 3-4 days IME.
Likes For pdlamb:
#7
2-Wheeled Fool
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 2,346
Bikes: Surly Ogre, Brompton
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1385 Post(s)
Liked 677 Times
in
457 Posts
You might take a chamfer or some (rough) sandpaper and smooth the valve hole down on the rim.
If it's on the outside of the wheel (contacting the tire), look for a small cut in the tire. Sometimes the tire can "chew" up the tube until it develops a leak, usually in 3-4 days IME.
If it's on the outside of the wheel (contacting the tire), look for a small cut in the tire. Sometimes the tire can "chew" up the tube until it develops a leak, usually in 3-4 days IME.
Likes For WizardOfBoz: