Hatchet

Two part question:

1.
It looks like I’ll be adding another freewheel removal tool to my collection – which one do I need to remove this one (taken off a 1973 Schwinn Varsity)?

2.
I’ve partially taken it apart (see last pic) – how do I complelely disassemble it? At this stage would two chain whips do the trick (once I've removed it from the wheel)?

Thanks,
Dave

jimc101

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...icle-section-2

FR-4

fietsbob

A Guess... Atom..??
but to be sure take wheel to bike shop, they should have a collection, already,

You will most likely need to remove the axle, from the opposite end..

with the tool in the bench vise, you , and maybe 2 of you, unscrew the wheel by the rim..


Then have the shop order another of that one that fits

there is an old one for shimano too, you definitely need the axle out, then.






..

Ghrumpy

Yes, Atom. The Park FR-4 will work. Atom's own remover seems pretty easy to find too.

IIRC the top two cogs are threaded, but not together. The last three are splined. So yes, with two chain whips, take off the top cog first, then the next, and you should be good to go.

Jeff Wills

What do intend to disassemble? If you mean you want to remove the cogs from the body, go right ahead. Two chain whips are what you need. On the other hand, they've been there for almost 50 years. They won't be easy to budge.

If you want to disassemble the freewheel body- I wouldn't. There are a bazillion 1/8" ball bearings in there and they are pretty tough to put back in place once they're loose.

Back in the day we would "overhaul" those Schwinn/Atom freewheels by removing the plastic seal which is visible around the removal splines. Just pry it up with a small screwdriver- it should pop right out. (There may be a plastic seal on the back side, too. Check once you have it off the wheel.) Then clean the whole thing thoroughly by soaking it in solvent (kerosene works), let the solvent drip out, and lube the bearings with medium-weight oil. Spin the freewheel a couple times to work the excess oil out, pop the seals back on, and it'll be good for another 50 years.

Pastor Bob may have better instructions about doing this. He hangs out on the C&V forum and he might have already published a "how-to".

Metacortex

That's a Schwinn Approved Model J (Japan, made by Shimano) and the FR-4 is indeed the correct tool. To remove the cogs I secure the freewheel to a board with screws in-between the teeth of the outer cog and use a single chain whip to remove the inner two threaded on cogs. The outer 3 are splined and will then slide off.

cny-bikeman

I would specifically advise against overhauling that freewheel, as it is likely worn on the smaller cogs. I say pitch it.

Ghrumpy

You're right, I just now noticed the "Japan" mark on the plastic cap. Good catch.

Hatchet

Thanks!

Hatchet

Thanks for the info. I'll keep it in mind when removing it.

Hatchet

Thanks - just ordered the FR-4.

Hatchet

[QUOTE]Not planning to disassemble the freewheel body - I know they are full of a ton of small ball bearings. Just looking to take the cogs off to convert to a single speed.

Hatchet

Thanks for the tip - this sounds like several other freewheels I've disassembled.

Hatchet

Thanks for the tip - this sounds like several other freewheels I've disassembled.

Ghrumpy

[QUOTE=Hatchet;20272398]Why not just buy a single speed freewheel?

Hatchet

[QUOTE=Ghrumpy;20272429]I could do that, but don't have a good enough truing stand to accurately re-dish the wheel.

cny-bikeman

[QUOTE=Hatchet;20272598]Many truing stands cannot be trusted for measuring dish. But all you need are three items of equal height on which you can rest the wheel, a table or other large flat surface, and a short stick or even a piece of cardboard. Set the supports under the rim about equidistant apart. Then mark the distance from the outside of the locknut to the table. Flip the wheel and do the same. If the 2nd measurement is larger you need to move the rim to the side that is down, if smaller then the other way. Keep in mind you only have to move it 1/2 the difference.

On the other hand, when using a wheel designed for a multi-speed freewheel one has to plan ahead as to what chainline is needed. A one speed freewheel may end up too far in, for example.

Jeff Wills

[QUOTE=cny-bikeman;20272773]I agree. I re-dished a multi-speed rear wheel for a single-speed freewheel using this method. I have a truing stand, but it doesn't self-dish (for lack of a better term).

Besides, if you remove the other cogs, the only cog suitable for single-speed use would be the #2, 17-tooth cog. You won't end up with a straight chainline with that.

If you're converting a Varsity to single-speed your best bet is to remove the freewheel, install a single-cog freewheel, and re-dish the wheel to straighten the chainline. The rear wheel won't be 100% dish-less, but it will work.

100bikes

Phil Wood made a tool for Atom freewheels which did not require the removal of the axle.
Likely still available.

JohnDThompson 

[QUOTE=Hatchet;20272398]No need to remove cogs for that reason. Just pick the cog you want to run and trim the chain to fit.

Hatchet

[QUOTE=cny-bikeman;20272773]Thanks for that tip - I hadn't heard of it before, and it makes complete sense.

Hatchet

[QUOTE=Jeff Wills;20272853]
Thanks - are there any single-cog freewheels you'd recommend?

Hatchet

[QUOTE=JohnDThompson;20273297]I have done that before on a different bike, but it looks like a sloppily half-finished job. Just a personal preference.

cyccommute 

Most people don't trust truing stands to measure dish but even a cheap Sunlite truing stand can easily be used for measuring dish. The more expensive Park stands do it automatically and easily as long as someone has calibrated the stand. All too often the calibration step is forgotten.

Way too elaborate. If you have a touring stand that doesn't measure the dish or one that is suspect, simply flip the wheel over in the stand without moving the caliper arms (or the screws in the case of the Sunlite type stands). Even if you are using the frame, you can flip the wheel around without moving whatever you are using to gauge the true.

JohnDThompson 

Shimano BMX freewheels are widely available and affordable. Just be sure to get one that fits a road hub, not the undersize BMX-only hubs. The road hub compatible BMX freewheels have a smallest tooth count of 16 teeth, due to the space required to accommodate the ratchet mechanism. Smaller tooth count single freewheels will likely not fit on a road hub (I seem to recall a couple obscure non-Shimano exceptions to this, but they tend to be rare and expensive).