What have you been wrenching on lately?
#3676
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Been “correcting” my recently acquired late 70’s Ritchey Palo Alto tandem. I guess a previous owner had wanted a triple so they had put a later Specialized triple crankset on the stoker drive side only. I yanked that and replaced with a correct and matching first-gen Dura Ace double (53/39). I also swapped out the stoker’s Sugino seat post with a Campy NR to match captain’s, and put on a proper pair of his and hers Brooks B17 Imperials. I borrowed the Silca pump from my wife’s Gitane Team Pro and put Avocet water bottle cages on...I had two yellow and one black so the black is down low and holds my period correct Kangaroo Bags tool roll. We have not been on a ride yet where this beauty isn’t ogled by someone.
Last edited by Markeologist; 11-01-20 at 01:19 PM.
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#3677
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Been “correcting” my recently acquired late 70’s Ritchey Palo Alto tandem. I guess a previous owner had wanted a triple so they had put a later Specialized triple crankset on the stoker drive side only. I yanked that and replaced with a correct and matching first-gen Dura Ace double (53/39). I also swapped out the stoker’s Sugino seat post with a Campy NR to match captain’s, and put on a proper pair of his and hers Brooks B17 Imperials. I borrowed the Silca pump from my wife’s Gitane Team Pro and put Avocet water bottle cages on...I had two yellow and one black so the black is down low and holds my period correct Kangaroo Bags tool roll. We have not been on a ride yet where this beauty isn’t ogled by someone.
I finally acquired a frame that I should be able to ride, nothing like this but close in size, mixte stoker to MAYBE get Ms. merziac on but needs a lot of work.
This is my first tandem, fortunately the whole crankset is present and in ok to good working order so we'll see, HS was a mess but got it some sorted so should be good to go for the limited use this may see, may shoot for this spring to have it up and running, again, we'll see.
Last edited by merziac; 11-01-20 at 03:36 PM.
#3678
aka Tom Reingold
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@Markeologist I'm ogling, too. We have a cheap tandem, and it has to do for now.
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#3679
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Thanks merziac and noglider...good luck with your tandems! My wife and I have been riding tandem since 1986/87 (before we were married) and we did our honeymoon on our Rodriguez in 1988 (which we still ride). Here is us with our Rodriguez at start of 2017 Eroica California BEFORE some @$$wipe stole our Scott Pederson self energizing cantilever brakes, stoker's Suntour XC seatpost with Brooks Pro saddle (my wife is still pissed about losing that), and our solar computer (night after our ride while bike was parked in facilities of our pretty high end hotel). For the record, I was wrenching on the Rodriguez just the other day!!!
#3680
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Thanks merziac and noglider...good luck with your tandems! My wife and I have been riding tandem since 1986/87 (before we were married) and we did our honeymoon on our Rodriguez in 1988 (which we still ride). Here is us with our Rodriguez at start of 2017 Eroica California BEFORE some @$$wipe stole our Scott Pederson self energizing cantilever brakes, stoker's Suntour XC seatpost with Brooks Pro saddle (my wife is still pissed about losing that), and our solar computer (night after our ride while bike was parked in facilities of our pretty high end hotel). For the record, I was wrenching on the Rodriguez just the other day!!!
Hopefully the thieving B*****D's got/get their due which is of course is not likely.
#3681
aka Tom Reingold
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@Markeologist, was it a women’s Brooks Pro? I might have one I could let go.
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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#3684
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I have been fighting a front derailleur, SRAM Red 10-speed double.
You Tube only helped a little bit.
On an 85-mile shakedown ride, it did not want to climb to the big ring, then it tossed over.
Later on the same ride, it didn’t want to drop to the small ring, then it tossed to the BB shell.
Added a 2.5mm R BB spacer as the inner ring was very close, smaller cogs chattered on small-small.
I was running compact and 11-30 rear, so I figured chain slack was part of it.
Replaced the RD with a clutched X.9, rear is smooth and no slap.
Reset the FD per the video, and it really doesn’t want to drop to the inner.
Of course, backing off inner limit then compromises the shift to the outer ring. Aargh.
I am close to swapping in a Nuevo Record.
You Tube only helped a little bit.
On an 85-mile shakedown ride, it did not want to climb to the big ring, then it tossed over.
Later on the same ride, it didn’t want to drop to the small ring, then it tossed to the BB shell.
Added a 2.5mm R BB spacer as the inner ring was very close, smaller cogs chattered on small-small.
I was running compact and 11-30 rear, so I figured chain slack was part of it.
Replaced the RD with a clutched X.9, rear is smooth and no slap.
Reset the FD per the video, and it really doesn’t want to drop to the inner.
Of course, backing off inner limit then compromises the shift to the outer ring. Aargh.
I am close to swapping in a Nuevo Record.
Last edited by RobbieTunes; 11-02-20 at 04:08 PM.
#3686
Full Member
I have been fighting a front derailleur, SRAM Red 10-speed double.
You Tube only helped a little bit.
On an 85-mile shakedown ride, it did not want to climb to the big ring, then it tossed over.
Later on the same ride, it didn’t want to drop to the small ring, then it tossed to the BB she’ll.
Added a 2.5mm R BB spacer as the inner ring was very close, smaller cogs chattered on small-small.
I was running compact and 11-30 rear, so I figured chain slack was part of it.
Replaced the RD with a clutched X.9, rear is smooth and no slap.
Reset the FD per the video, and it really doesn’t want to drop to the inner.
Of course, backing off inner limit then compromises the shift to the outer ring. Aargh.
I am close to swapping in a Nuevo Record.
You Tube only helped a little bit.
On an 85-mile shakedown ride, it did not want to climb to the big ring, then it tossed over.
Later on the same ride, it didn’t want to drop to the small ring, then it tossed to the BB she’ll.
Added a 2.5mm R BB spacer as the inner ring was very close, smaller cogs chattered on small-small.
I was running compact and 11-30 rear, so I figured chain slack was part of it.
Replaced the RD with a clutched X.9, rear is smooth and no slap.
Reset the FD per the video, and it really doesn’t want to drop to the inner.
Of course, backing off inner limit then compromises the shift to the outer ring. Aargh.
I am close to swapping in a Nuevo Record.
#3687
aka Tom Reingold
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Well done, @JaccoW!
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Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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#3688
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@Markeologist, was it a women’s Brooks Pro? I might have one I could let go.
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#3690
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Nice! I would love to remove the bb-un55 as well but have no idea how to start it. Bearing disintegrated after 1 month so theres no space for the tool. It was the only new part of the bike Anyhow Im going to massacre it, will be well documented..
Last edited by Lattz; 11-02-20 at 04:41 PM.
#3691
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I have been fighting a front derailleur, SRAM Red 10-speed double.
You Tube only helped a little bit.
On an 85-mile shakedown ride, it did not want to climb to the big ring, then it tossed over.
Later on the same ride, it didn’t want to drop to the small ring, then it tossed to the BB shell.
Added a 2.5mm R BB spacer as the inner ring was very close, smaller cogs chattered on small-small.
I was running compact and 11-30 rear, so I figured chain slack was part of it.
Replaced the RD with a clutched X.9, rear is smooth and no slap.
Reset the FD per the video, and it really doesn’t want to drop to the inner.
Of course, backing off inner limit then compromises the shift to the outer ring. Aargh.
I am close to swapping in a Nuevo Record.
You Tube only helped a little bit.
On an 85-mile shakedown ride, it did not want to climb to the big ring, then it tossed over.
Later on the same ride, it didn’t want to drop to the small ring, then it tossed to the BB shell.
Added a 2.5mm R BB spacer as the inner ring was very close, smaller cogs chattered on small-small.
I was running compact and 11-30 rear, so I figured chain slack was part of it.
Replaced the RD with a clutched X.9, rear is smooth and no slap.
Reset the FD per the video, and it really doesn’t want to drop to the inner.
Of course, backing off inner limit then compromises the shift to the outer ring. Aargh.
I am close to swapping in a Nuevo Record.
I was somewhat amused and a little curious why my SRAM Red 11 speed f. derr came equipped with a chain catcher to keep the chain from dropping off the inside of the front chainring, maybe because of the types of issues you are experiencing.
Brent
#3692
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I will once it's done but right now it's a project bike that definitely still needs some work. But it's one of my wishlist models and in a very rare size (66cm, a.k.a. my size )
What do you mean there's no space for the tool? Do you have a picture to show what you mean? As long as the splines on the cups are still there you will have plenty of grip to remove it. All you need is a way to keep the removal tool in place. I usually use a big washer ring and the crank bolt.
What do you mean there's no space for the tool? Do you have a picture to show what you mean? As long as the splines on the cups are still there you will have plenty of grip to remove it. All you need is a way to keep the removal tool in place. I usually use a big washer ring and the crank bolt.
#3693
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The splines are intact, so is the tool as both were brand new. So the axle is pointing to the side to an extend that I cant insert the tool in the slots.
Actually wanted to open a Help thread about it since I'm not 'wrenching" just would like to... but let the pictures talk.
Obviously methods implying big force are off, since I'm happy if the frame does not fall apart on its own. My planned idea was to drill/grind the cartridge to an extend where i can move the axle to a better pos, or remove it completely.
Odd, that the non-drive side is not as off as this, also I was able to remove the ring there.
Actually wanted to open a Help thread about it since I'm not 'wrenching" just would like to... but let the pictures talk.
Obviously methods implying big force are off, since I'm happy if the frame does not fall apart on its own. My planned idea was to drill/grind the cartridge to an extend where i can move the axle to a better pos, or remove it completely.
Odd, that the non-drive side is not as off as this, also I was able to remove the ring there.
Last edited by Lattz; 11-03-20 at 03:07 PM.
#3694
Overdoing projects
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The splines are intact, so is the tool as both were brand new. So the axle is pointing to the side to an extend that I cant insert the tool in the slots.
Actually wanted to open a Help thread about it since I'm not 'wrenching" just would like to... but let the pictures talk.
Obviously methods implying big force are off, since I'm if the frame does not fall apart on its own. My planned idea was to drill/grind the cartridge to an extend where i can move the axle to a better pos, or remove it completely.
Odd, that the non-drive side is not as off as this, also I was able to remove the ring there.
Actually wanted to open a Help thread about it since I'm not 'wrenching" just would like to... but let the pictures talk.
Obviously methods implying big force are off, since I'm if the frame does not fall apart on its own. My planned idea was to drill/grind the cartridge to an extend where i can move the axle to a better pos, or remove it completely.
Odd, that the non-drive side is not as off as this, also I was able to remove the ring there.
Here I removed the Drive side by fixing the tool in place with a washer and a nut:
And the non-drive side was done with the tool, a bolt and some washers on both the outside and the inside:
If you want I can shoot some better pictures to explain.
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#3695
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Ah that looks like the dust cap popped out and it was improperly tightened. I would say start a thread. You can probably get that out just fine with a tool, a rod and some washers.
Here I removed the Drive side by fixing the tool in place with a washer and a nut:
And the non-drive side was done with the tool, a bolt and some washers on both the outside and the inside:
If you want I can shoot some better pictures to explain.
Here I removed the Drive side by fixing the tool in place with a washer and a nut:
And the non-drive side was done with the tool, a bolt and some washers on both the outside and the inside:
If you want I can shoot some better pictures to explain.
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#3696
aka Tom Reingold
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Robbie, just a guess but your problem may be your chainrings. I've heard that some of the 10 and 11 speed systems can be quite finicky if the chainrings aren't one of the few factory combinations. Seems that the ramps and pins are set up to work well only when they are matched between the two chainrings.
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
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Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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#3697
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Where does one get a wrench that beefy/long!?!?! I need one!
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
#3699
Overdoing projects
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#3700
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And of course, as I speak, another seized project...this time a Dura Ace 7 speed freewheel on a Dura Ace hub.
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
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