55tele

My 11 speed chained bike has about 1500 miles on it and I am meticulous about chain cleanliness and checking wear. I use a Pedros chain checker My check this morning indicated 5 checks all at less than 0.5%, however, a check that includes the connecting link measued just at 0.5%, maybe just a touch less…

Is it normal to get a higher number over a connecting link and should I replace the chain?

SRAM 1130 chain…..I use Silca Synergetic wet lube

Iride01 

I use my chain checker for quick checks. However since they are basically a go-no go gauge, you don't get much idea what the wear is on the ones it doesn't fail. So maybe if you use a metal tape measure or other scale, then measure out 12"along the part of the chain that doesn't include the quick link and see how close the rest of it is to being 0.5%.. A 1/16" more than 12" is just a tad more than 0.5% So if the rest of the chain is close, you might as well change it. But for one link, even if the quick link, I might not worry about immediate replacement. But I would try to figure out what is up with that quick link. Is it the same brand as the chain is or is this a universal quick link for any 11 speed chain?

1500 miles isn't very much on a chain. I've got over 5000 on a 11 speed chain currently. And my previous 11 speed chain on another bike went at just 4000 miles. Actually it was probably bad earlier, but I got lax about checking.

55tele

Thanks. For the reply….Since all my other checks that didn’t include the connecting link meaure ok and the 1 measurement that included was marginally good, i think im ok….

I was just wondering if it is normal to expect a slightly “sloppy” measurement when that quick link is included. Since that link is only one (really only one half) of a link, I cant forsee it really causing any premature wear. It is the original SRAM quick link…..chain has never been off the bicycle

Not really sure I’d trust a ruler. Hard for me to eyeball the pin center…..

Iride01 

Ruler! Don't use that term around any machinist. You'll quickly learn that rulers are only for drawing straight lines. A scale or a measure is what you use to determine distance.

atnyc

Since we’re at the topic of “wear” on drive train components. What do people use to gauge when to replace cassettes?

I hear 2 different school of thoughts. One being change cassette when change chain. The other school of thought says the exact opposite. Change chain early so it to minimize wear on the cassette. So for the believer of the latter, how do you figure out when to change cassette?

55tele

Point well taken…..still does not seem to be a precise method to measure pin center to center on a chain.

Black wallnut 

Left edge to left edge is equal to center to center. Iride01 this is a bicycle forum, not a machinists forum. In that context ruler is an appropriate term. He could also use a machinists rule.

Cassettes, if you manage your chains and replace before excessive wear about every third chain you might need to replace cassette. If you run your chains until they are way past 5% you will likely need to replace sooner. Either way when they skip with a new chain it is past time to replace.

Broctoon

Visual inspection. If the teeth are symmetrical and shaped like they were when new, you don't need to replace it, no matter how many miles it's gone or how many chains you've been through. If the teeth are starting to take a shark fin shape, it's time to replace. Likewise if the drivetrain is getting noisy or hard to shift--or if you can't seem to get it adjusted to keep from skipping and other components can be ruled out.

By the way, these last criteria are the best way to judge when it's time to replace the chain. If the gauge indicates less than .75% and it runs smooth and shifts as it should, why replace? Likewise if it's only at .5%, but it doesn't run right, maybe replace that chain.

Iride01 

It's more precise than you might imagine. But it takes some practice, you have to have good lighting and be able to get your eyes at the proper place to view and be able to hold the scale and chain still. You don't have to measure the center of the pin. You can measure from the edge of the pin or even the edge of the side plate. As long as your measure is from the same place on the starting link and ending link you are good.

But I'm okay with chain checkers too. Though some can give a false indication as they measure to different sides of the rollers and some have made a good case that sometimes that wear can be from the rollers internal wear and not always the wear that matters. There are chain checkers that measure to the same side of the roller. Shimano makes on and I think Pedro's does too. So maybe yours is that model.

Iride01 

Oh lighten up! It wasn't meant to be taken as a serious admonishment. Just a lighthearted quip. So don't read everything someone writes with a stern voice. Imagine some fun and friendly ribbing to it. Just like you were sitting around the tavern with your friends.

But perhaps I should read your response the same way and just imagine you are poking some friendly fun too! <grin>

KerryIrons

If a new chain skips under pressure, the consensus is that your cassette is worn out. If it takes significant pedal pressure, you might be able to continue to use the cassette for one more chain by riding it for a couple 100 miles. Often the chain wil "bed in" and the skipping will stop. But for sure when that new chain is worn out, the cassette will definitely need replacement. Visual inspection is pretty much in the eye of the beholder and so is not a reliable method to determine if a cassette is worn out.

FBinNY 

The thing to keep in mind when considering chain wear and replacement is that it's not a binary -- pass/fail -- thing.

It's progressive so there's no great harm in delaying replacement when it;s a close call. Equally, the only harm in replacing before it passes the "magic" replace now mark is the economic loss of not getting full value from the removed chain.

It's kind of like changing oil in a car. Even folks who are religious about changing oil at 2,500 miles won't pull off the road and do so the moment they hit that exact mileage. So, think about the replace time on your chain check as a zone, and feel free to take it with a grain of salt.

BTW - to answer the original question, yes wear on the quick link pins may be different. Those pins might be made of a different steel and harder or softer than the others. Also, there's always some variance when steel parts are heat treated. Manufacturers segregate parts for QC, so while the odds are that all pins in a single chain are from the same batch, those on the links won't be, accounting for slight differences.

maddog34

Hogwash.
Someone jerked your chain and you woke up with your tail a waggin'

"a measure"... hoo boy.

PS.. to clarify... this is "friendly fun", 01

wheelreason

Don't check the quick link, and get a ruler to measure your chain. Chain gauge thingys are crap.

wheelreason

Ruler like Monarch, "we are the makers of fashion"....

Iride01 

Of course it's friendly fun. If y'all were a little more aware, any of you might have pointed out that a scale also includes a straight edge and is sometimes used to scribe lines. Which has been my retort to others when they get on to me for calling it a ruler forgetting that some machinists are picky about the jargon. Might be dependent on the area or region of the country. Maybe even the shop.

Harold74

I own one of these Unior cassette wear tools: Link

That said, I'm not sure that I've ever received a useful result from it as I've yet to measure a cassette that indicated meaningful wear. Not even on a 1991 Miyata 1000 that I picked up recently that had it's OEM HG50 and, supposedly, was used to tour the length of South America. I do tend to be a fairly early replacer of bike consumables.

A worn out chain can prematurely wear out a cassette. However, I do not believe that the reverse is true. I don't feel that a worn out cassette will meaningfully accelerate chain wear.

So, while we have a prophylactic reason to avoid significant chain wear, I feel that we do not have a prophylactic reason to avoid cassette wear. As such, I don't feel that there is a need to replace cassettes until they start performing poorly with respect to shifting, skipping, etc. And this approach is consistent with most of the other recommendations previously expressed.

Lombard

Unless you constantly ride in dirt and mud, 1500 miles is nothing.

I don't trust chain checkers. I use a ruler which never lies:

Bicycle: Measuring Chain Wear using a 12-Inch Ruler

grumpus

IFTFYWhen you fit the new chain see how much it can move on the most used sprockets. If it rides up noticeably when you apply tension it might be time for a new cassette.

UnCruel 

I'd be inclined to keep the chain and replace the quick link.