Should I get lower gears for help in climbing?
04-27-20, 10:56 AM
#51
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My wife just made a similar cassette change (12-29 to 12-32) and it's made a remarkable difference. She climbs faster with the lower gear.
04-27-20, 10:58 AM
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My bike has the full Dura-Ace drivetrain. Only thing changed was the cassette (from Dura-Ace 11-28 to Ultegra 11-32) and the chain. RD was not changed and works perfect with the new cassette. Here is my bike's full original specs: https://archive.trekbikes.com/us/en/...r_8_h2/details
04-28-20, 08:52 AM
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Of course you should
. I am running 50/34, and 40 rear cassette with a wolf tooth. I am in Thailand and this combination is common here.
. I am running 50/34, and 40 rear cassette with a wolf tooth. I am in Thailand and this combination is common here.
04-29-20, 11:10 AM
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Question -- Which RD do you have, and do you need to change to the GS version to accommodate the 32T cog proprerly? I'm running Ultegra R8000 with a standard RD and 11-30T. Would like to go to 11-32T and am hoping to get by with just a chain replacement, not an RD replacement. I'm good to 8% on my current setup, but anything above truly exhausts me.
04-29-20, 11:27 AM
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Mine is a short cage R8000 with a maximum cog size of 30T, so 32T is technically beyond spec. The OP used, I believe, a short-cage Dura-Ace and had success going to 32T. My guess is that his was spec'd to 28T since it appears to be an older gen DA. If 32T will work with only a chain replacement, then I'm all over that plan. I climb 10%+ hills all the time and could use a lower gear. I don't want to incur the expense of replacing the RD for only two additional teeth.
04-29-20, 11:28 AM
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Update - April 22, 2020 - I replaced the 11-28 Dura-Ace with a 11-32 Ultegra. Replacement of the cassette was straight forward and simple. Without any other modifications or adjustments, I could change gears and everything worked fine except for the large-large combo (which is cross-chaining). The problem with the large-large combo was the chain being short. If I accidentally changed to this gear while riding, it could cause damage to the derailleur. So I thought it would be best to replace the chain since I was putting on a new cassette. I measured the new chain same as the old and added one link. Now all gears work fine, including the large-large combo.
Last edited by noodle soup; 04-29-20 at 11:31 AM.
04-29-20, 11:32 AM
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Likes For Robert A:
04-29-20, 12:55 PM
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Above, he linked to his bike, a 2015 Emonda. Wouldn't that mean he has the 9000? Based on this link, the factory spec goes to 28T
I have DA 9000 currently. When I replace the chain next month, I’ll try it with my 11-32 cassette.
Last edited by noodle soup; 04-29-20 at 12:58 PM.
06-14-20, 09:09 AM
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Reviving this thread with question. I have the R8000 short cage. Just changed my cassette from 11-30t to 11-32t and fitted a new chain (DA) to the setup. Shimano spec is 30T, so 32T is technically beyond that.
After adjusting the B screen and lengthening the vertical gap between the jockey wheel and the cassette, the 32T cog is quiet. The rest of the gears seem to shift fine with one exception. There's a slight hesitation when upshifting to smaller cogs, This is most noticeable in the higher gears (smaller cogs).
Is the shifting issue related to the 32T or is it an adjustment issue? I've been working with the barrel adjuster and haven't been able to solve it.
After adjusting the B screen and lengthening the vertical gap between the jockey wheel and the cassette, the 32T cog is quiet. The rest of the gears seem to shift fine with one exception. There's a slight hesitation when upshifting to smaller cogs, This is most noticeable in the higher gears (smaller cogs).
Is the shifting issue related to the 32T or is it an adjustment issue? I've been working with the barrel adjuster and haven't been able to solve it.
06-14-20, 10:20 PM
#60
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It is indirectly related, because of the B-screw adjustment.
06-15-20, 02:13 AM
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Last time i used front 22-32-44, rear 11-32. 18.6-108 gear inch.
Now using front 26-38, rear 11-40. 17.6-93.3 gear inch.
No reason to use any arbitrary number like 34-50, 30-46 or whatever the manufacturers want to sell.
Now using front 26-38, rear 11-40. 17.6-93.3 gear inch.
No reason to use any arbitrary number like 34-50, 30-46 or whatever the manufacturers want to sell.
06-15-20, 02:53 AM
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perhaps someone else will chip in here but managed (barely) many many difficult short, intermediate and long (7-30+ miles) climbs
with a 50/34 along with a 12/27 cassette. definitely not the fastest but it got done in a grinding fashion. in the last six months, have a
newish bike with a 50/34 along with an 11/32 and things are a lot easier on the 7%+ slopes...especially the sustained ones. cycling
muscle memory tho, has me shifting back into a harder gear to grind on occasion. don't seem to be going any faster with the easier to spin gears
since the cardio is the same....just feel a little fresher after looong climbs or a bunch of punchy climbs. however, leg/tendon strength seems to have
dipped a little since getting new bailout gears. i notice it the most on those steep, 10%+ climbs of a quarter mile or less. similar experience(s)?
with a 50/34 along with a 12/27 cassette. definitely not the fastest but it got done in a grinding fashion. in the last six months, have a
newish bike with a 50/34 along with an 11/32 and things are a lot easier on the 7%+ slopes...especially the sustained ones. cycling
muscle memory tho, has me shifting back into a harder gear to grind on occasion. don't seem to be going any faster with the easier to spin gears
since the cardio is the same....just feel a little fresher after looong climbs or a bunch of punchy climbs. however, leg/tendon strength seems to have
dipped a little since getting new bailout gears. i notice it the most on those steep, 10%+ climbs of a quarter mile or less. similar experience(s)?
Last edited by diphthong; 06-15-20 at 03:01 AM.
