Barrettscv 

I try to avoid strong degreasers and solvents while a I clean a drivetrain. I don't like the idea of removing chain oil and bearing grease and contaminating surfaces with a solvent.

However, my crankset, derailleurs and cassette are an grimy mess of chain oil and dust that is difficult to clean with mild soap and gentle cleaning methods.

Any suggestions for cleaning a grimy, oily mess without using a solvent or degreaser?

Marcus_Ti

Rock n Roll degreaser. Does great cleaning, doesn't smell, and won't eat your skin off.

Rock N Roll Miracle Red 3 N 1 Degreaser > Accessories > Tools & Maintenance > Cleaners & Degreasers | Jenson USA

Spoonrobot 

Hot wax will get a chain cleaner than anything else I've tried, even cleaner than a circulating parts washer. Works well on cassette and chainrings as well.

Problem is that it requires a lot of space, dedicated equipment and is multi-step that takes a bit of time. I've only done it once as kind of a lark but if I ever get something really bad I'll do it again.

Otherwise I just take everything off and use concentrated dish soap, a stiff bristle brush and hot water. Goes like this:

• Put chain in sink
• Cover with soap
• Scrub scrub scrub
• Move to next sink and let sit
• Same with cassette
• Same with chainring
• Rinse
• Put in sun or or near stove to dry

I don't generally clean anything on the bike except for removing build up on the derailleur pulleys and chainrings. I prefer to just ride and do a deep removal clean every 6 months or so. Mechanical action from spraying the bike with a garden hose works pretty well but there has been some objection from others on the forum about the potential for ground water pollution from this. I don't agree but understand the opinion.

dgodave

My suggestion for next time:
Boeshield or similar "dry" lube.
Wire brush to clean chain, cogs, rings, pulleys.
Very non messy. Just brush the mess into a dustpan.

Works for me anyway.

zimdba

What's wrong with a degreaser? I use Orange Zep without issues.

Primitive Don

Simple Green in water (1:4) works well for chains and drive train. I have a SRAM Powerlink, so I remove and soak the chain and get in between the cassette cogs with a soft cloth (tshirt).

TimothyH

Simple Green, orange cleaner or even soap/water containing dissolved grease and oil should really be recycled or otherwise treated as contaminated with waste oil. The need to treat it as oil waste is why I prefer odorless mineral spirits.

With OMS the oil and grease settles to the bottom and the clean solvent can be poured off to another container. I recycle the oil sludge at the bottom of the can once or twice each year when I happen to be passing the county dump.


-Tim-

mstateglfr 

Is cleaning an mtb drivetrain on a gravel bike different from a road drivetrain?

12strings

To clean of gunky oil and grease...you need a degreaser. Just try to keep aim it well, then re-lube the chain when you are done...

...and realise it might mean changing/repacking bearing a bit more often.

Mickey2

You should get very far with hot soapy water, microfiber cloths and any diposable rag to wipe off the chain. If it's left too long it will be a bit more work, but still, it will get you there. Even if it can take some time and be a bit cumbersome in places it's not difficult. Harsher solvents and degreasers isn't always quicker or easier unless it's an unusally stubborn case. You might have to poke grime out of each of the open spaces in the chain, but if you do it regularly a simple wipe off will be enough.

Natural (basic) soap behaves differently than dish washing liquid and car shampoo, safe for everything on the bike and often an advantage. A tooth brush makes it easier to clean the spoke ends in the hub, as well as the chain and parts on derailleur. There's several ways about it, and doesn't have to be very high tech. Further oiling and wiping off the chain will improve the situation as you get into a better routine. If something is very stubborn you can always sort to more heavy duty cleaning products. For the parts you can take off and soak; hot water and basic laundry powder (white wash) is one of the most effective things I have used.

I looked it up; remains of basic chain oil, the mineral oil type as well as it's synthetic derivatives is not classified as particularly hamful. It's not the same as white spirit, parafin or petrol. In smaller amounts nature will break it down and only be harmfull to soil and spill water in large amonts / consentrations.

GlennR

Depends...

Simple wipe down if it's just road grime.

After a ride in melting snow it was covered with sand and salt so I removed the chain and cassette and put them in a ultrasonic cleaner. And then hose the bike with warm water and carried in the basement to be dried and cleaned.

TimothyH

How are you guys disposing of soapy water contaminated with grease and oil?

I hope you are not throwing it down the drain or letting it run into the ground.


-Tim-

ksryder

I squirt some chain lube on a rag and wipe down the chain about once a week. Throw the rags in a pile in the corner of my basement when they're too dirty to use anymore. Hope they don't start a fire. I assume I'll have to throw them out one of these days.

I've found no matter how fastidious I am I end up replacing the chain about every 1200 miles, and the cassette about every 6 months.

king_boru

I used WD-40 chain and drivetrain cleaner last night. It foams up and gets into those tight little spaces. Was quite impressed to be honest.

mstateglfr 

I bring it in small dishes to stray kittens for them to lap up.


Greasy/oily rags are washed in the machine with laundry soap. All that oily soap watet then drains out the main drain and to the local water works.
Greasy/oily paper towels are tossed in the trash to ultimately sit inside a plastic bag for thousands of years and slowly leach out.

CvRyder

Try finishline first step clean and lube spray . works like a charm. no need for removal.

Mickey2

Regarding the basic mineral oil used for chains, sewing machines, including synthetic derivatives, seems only to be treated as a hazardous waste in large amounts. From the data sheets I have found on the web; any small amount can be hosed off with water, any remains typical from a bucked of water used to clean a bike is not treated as special waste. Apparently it breaks down in nature fast enough not to be a problem. It seems that this type of oil have exactly the same recommendations when it comes to handeling and care regardless if it's the bio-eco-friendly version of plant origin or the equivalent product of petroleum origin?

Apparently the term mineral oil is use for many different products with very different classifications regarding safety. The safety sheets for petrol, diesel, crude oil, white spirit and naphta are very different.

john_mct

I find rubbing alcohol quite adept at cutting through grime and grease, also easy to buy anywhere while on tour and way cheaper than name brand bike cleaning stuff.

Bob Ross

I put it in a glass labeled "Free Soda!" and leave it out for the neighborhood children.

trail_monkey

I have used simple green and a toothbrush. It works well. Recently though I have been using WD40 and I like that. It cleans very well. Then I just wipe dry with paper towels and re lube my chain and other parts. As far as road grime I just occasionally wipe clean with a paper towel if it is not time to re lube.

zimdba

Compulsive cross-chainer?

Barrettscv 

?? Do you have anything to add to the topic?

zimdba

Yes, I added that replacing chains & cassettes as frequently as ksryder is by no means typical of normal use or wear. Additionally, hoarding a pile of flammable materials is probably not a good idea. These things are much more valuable to the reader of this thread than your useless comment.

ksryder

I must profusely apologize and beg your forgiveness that my tongue-in-cheek comment failed to meet your standards, oh wise one. Please educate me on the proper way to ride gravel even though there's no possible way you could gather any information about the gravel and/or weather I ride in based on a single comment. I eagerly await your enlightenment on the topic. I'm literally losing sleep over it. Please let me know if there is anything I can possibly do to meet your approval, it is extremely important to me.

If you prefer, we can discuss it at the starting line at the Dirty Kanza 200 this year. I'll line up with the 14-16 hour group, but I'm certain I'll see you in the 12 hour group.

Barrettscv 

Well said