Old Schwinn Varsity Brake Calipers
#1
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Old Schwinn Varsity Brake Calipers
Is anyone familiar with old Schwinn Varsity brake calipers? There is a stud coming off of the body of the calipers that slips through the top of the fork in the front and through a cross bar in the rear to mount the calipers. Then an Allen Headed cap nut bolts the calipers to the fork top and cross bar. This Allen head is always stripping trying to get the calipers tight so they don't turn and I have to resort to jamming a star bit into them to tighten them. Can this stud be removed? I want to remove it and replace it with a longer stud so I can put a standard hex nut on it so I can really tighten them up. Can this be done before I take it down possibly stripping the Allen heads even more...Thanks,mjac
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The stud is a specialty bolt not easily replaced. With larger headtube sizes the past 25-30 yrs brakes have switched from
fully through bolts with a hex nut externally accessible to shorter bolts and hollow tubular nuts with allen recesses. These
are available in different lengths to accommodate fork sizes. In the era when I was futzing with old/new brake and fork
issues I did manufacture a replacement bolt for a shimano brake which included a step up from the 4M threading for the
attachment bolt to 6M threading for the brake body. It worked. My experience with Varsity was in the '70s so can't
comment on your specific brake bolt, but looking for a Shimano hollow tubular nut in an appropriate length might
get you better metallurgy so as to avoid the allen recess rounding out.
fully through bolts with a hex nut externally accessible to shorter bolts and hollow tubular nuts with allen recesses. These
are available in different lengths to accommodate fork sizes. In the era when I was futzing with old/new brake and fork
issues I did manufacture a replacement bolt for a shimano brake which included a step up from the 4M threading for the
attachment bolt to 6M threading for the brake body. It worked. My experience with Varsity was in the '70s so can't
comment on your specific brake bolt, but looking for a Shimano hollow tubular nut in an appropriate length might
get you better metallurgy so as to avoid the allen recess rounding out.
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try these ppl Harris Cyclery, (617) 244-1040 https://www.harriscyclery.net/
#4
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The stud is a specialty bolt not easily replaced. With larger headtube sizes the past 25-30 yrs brakes have switched from
fully through bolts with a hex nut externally accessible to shorter bolts and hollow tubular nuts with allen recesses. These
are available in different lengths to accommodate fork sizes. In the era when I was futzing with old/new brake and fork
issues I did manufacture a replacement bolt for a shimano brake which included a step up from the 4M threading for the
attachment bolt to 6M threading for the brake body. It worked. My experience with Varsity was in the '70s so can't
comment on your specific brake bolt, but looking for a Shimano hollow tubular nut in an appropriate length might
get you better metallurgy so as to avoid the allen recess rounding out.
fully through bolts with a hex nut externally accessible to shorter bolts and hollow tubular nuts with allen recesses. These
are available in different lengths to accommodate fork sizes. In the era when I was futzing with old/new brake and fork
issues I did manufacture a replacement bolt for a shimano brake which included a step up from the 4M threading for the
attachment bolt to 6M threading for the brake body. It worked. My experience with Varsity was in the '70s so can't
comment on your specific brake bolt, but looking for a Shimano hollow tubular nut in an appropriate length might
get you better metallurgy so as to avoid the allen recess rounding out.
#5
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try these ppl Harris Cyclery, (617) 244-1040 https://www.harriscyclery.net/
#6
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Try one of these. might need a longer recessed nut.
Might also add a concave washer. You often need a thin cone wrench to hold the flats for centering and getting it tight enough
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...iABEgLSLfD_BwE
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...CABEgKIw_D_BwE
https://www.amazon.com/Dia-Compe-Con.../dp/B00129ACQ0
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...-brake-service
Might also add a concave washer. You often need a thin cone wrench to hold the flats for centering and getting it tight enough
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...iABEgLSLfD_BwE
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...CABEgKIw_D_BwE
https://www.amazon.com/Dia-Compe-Con.../dp/B00129ACQ0
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...-brake-service
Last edited by dedhed; 02-18-20 at 10:21 AM.
#7
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Try one of these. might need a longer recessed nut.
Might also add a concave washer. You often need a thin cone wrench to hold the flats for centering and getting it tight enough
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...iABEgLSLfD_BwE
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...CABEgKIw_D_BwE
https://www.amazon.com/Dia-Compe-Con.../dp/B00129ACQ0
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...-brake-service
Might also add a concave washer. You often need a thin cone wrench to hold the flats for centering and getting it tight enough
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...iABEgLSLfD_BwE
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...CABEgKIw_D_BwE
https://www.amazon.com/Dia-Compe-Con.../dp/B00129ACQ0
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...-brake-service
You said something that made me look. I have been doing it wrong all along. There is a fixed hex nut up against the caliber to hold it in place while you tighten the tubular nut on the other side. I have not been using that. I have been tightening the tubular nut and then whacking the caliber with a rubber mallet to straighten it out.I will need a spanner wrench or a grinded down open end wrench.
I sent Universal a message and will see what they say...Thanks,mjac
Last edited by mjac; 02-18-20 at 10:47 AM.
#8
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try these ppl Harris Cyclery, (617) 244-1040 https://www.harriscyclery.net/
#9
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Well dang, that is almost as good as my whack it with the rubber mallet technique. That is right up there. That's good because I like whacking it with the rubber mallet. It gets my frustration out when it PMO....thanks,mjac
#13
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Thread Starter
Try one of these. might need a longer recessed nut.
Might also add a concave washer. You often need a thin cone wrench to hold the flats for centering and getting it tight enough
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...iABEgLSLfD_BwE
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...CABEgKIw_D_BwE
https://www.amazon.com/Dia-Compe-Con.../dp/B00129ACQ0
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...-brake-service
Might also add a concave washer. You often need a thin cone wrench to hold the flats for centering and getting it tight enough
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...iABEgLSLfD_BwE
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...CABEgKIw_D_BwE
https://www.amazon.com/Dia-Compe-Con.../dp/B00129ACQ0
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...-brake-service
I do not need the concave washers. The fork top and the small crossbar where the calipers mount have a flat mounting pad. When I said I had some NordLock extreme vibration concave lock washers I meant the washers have a slight concave shape that compresses when tightened and hold tension on the fastener. They are used in extreme vibration situations in industry.
All this his and a little locktite and it ought to work, Thanks,mjac
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The brand of the nuts isn't important, length is.
It's also stuff you should be able to get at your LBS or Co op
#15
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"SCH" suggested a brand like Shimano because the metal may be better since I was always stripping the Allen socket out. I still don't like the little Allen socket for something that has to be so tight. "SCH" says it may be a step down bolt. I am going to take a look at it see if I can just put a hex head bolt straight through to the caliper. Whatever the caliper receives I will get a bolt the right length that size and bolt it up. Tighten the hex head bearing down, them hit it with the rubber mallet. Maybe...Thanks,mjack
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I got frustrated with these old side-pull brakes too on my late 1970s frame. I replaced them with modern double-pivot brakes and levers by Shimano. I had to drill out one of the holes on the fork where the brake mounts but now the bike stops so much better and the new Aero style levers have a cleaner look and improved hoods. New calipers come with all the mounting hardware and cost like $25. I would not spend $10 on mounting hardware for a side pull brake when $25 will get you a whole new brake with a 3 decades more modern design. Modern Tekro brakes cost even less and are what are installed on most low to midrange new road bikes.
My new Shimano calipers have a centering screw adjustment, like all modern calipers. So they only need to be mounted to the frame "close enough" to center. The new style spherical brake pad mounts make life easier too.
This is what I needed. But you need to measure and read the specs first
amazon.com/Shimano-Front-Reach-Caliper-Silver...
My new Shimano calipers have a centering screw adjustment, like all modern calipers. So they only need to be mounted to the frame "close enough" to center. The new style spherical brake pad mounts make life easier too.
This is what I needed. But you need to measure and read the specs first
amazon.com/Shimano-Front-Reach-Caliper-Silver...
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If you're doing it right you won't be stripping nuts.
#18
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I got frustrated with these old side-pull brakes too on my late 1970s frame. I replaced them with modern double-pivot brakes and levers by Shimano. I had to drill out one of the holes on the fork where the brake mounts but now the bike stops so much better and the new Aero style levers have a cleaner look and improved hoods. New calipers come with all the mounting hardware and cost like $25. I would not spend $10 on mounting hardware for a side pull brake when $25 will get you a whole new brake with a 3 decades more modern design. Modern Tekro brakes cost even less and are what are installed on most low to midrange new road bikes.
My new Shimano calipers have a centering screw adjustment, like all modern calipers. So they only need to be mounted to the frame "close enough" to center. The new style spherical brake pad mounts make life easier too.
This is what I needed. But you need to measure and read the specs first
amazon.com/Shimano-Front-Reach-Caliper-Silver...
My new Shimano calipers have a centering screw adjustment, like all modern calipers. So they only need to be mounted to the frame "close enough" to center. The new style spherical brake pad mounts make life easier too.
This is what I needed. But you need to measure and read the specs first
amazon.com/Shimano-Front-Reach-Caliper-Silver...
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If you like rubber mallets for whacking things, try a Garland Rawhide hammer. They're tops:
https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/184...d&odnBg=ffffff
#20
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Of course I was not doing it right. That's why I needed the rubber mallet and I stripped the mounting nuts.The only Allen sockets I had at the time were the long ones and I was using the wobble until I switched them all around. With the long ones you get a little off center it is going to strip it and the wobble didn't help. But the Allen nuts were original equipment over 15 year old. You were going to strip them eventually.
But out did you see the set of Shimano calipers Chris Albertson posted up? And for $23.88. That is unbelievable...Thanks,mjac
But out did you see the set of Shimano calipers Chris Albertson posted up? And for $23.88. That is unbelievable...Thanks,mjac
#21
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You mean the offical Walmart Bike Shape Object Assembly and Fine Adjustment Tool? Seriously, the steel punch and a steel hammer give you much more control.
If you like rubber mallets for whacking things, try a Garland Rawhide hammer. They're tops:
https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/184...d&odnBg=ffffff
If you like rubber mallets for whacking things, try a Garland Rawhide hammer. They're tops:
https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/184...d&odnBg=ffffff
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In the shop (WAY back in the day) we'd use a screwdriver to lever the caliper one way or t'other. Worked. But the rigidity of the steel hammer and punch really does allow precision.
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Are you kidding me. You can get that good looking of a set of calipers for $23.88. $23.88. Those are some good looking calibers and like you said, they function a lot better too. I just assumed something like that was way more expensive and not worth putting on this old bike. That seals it. I am not investing anymore into these brakes. I will just patch them up and look into getting something similar from Shimano and enjoy looking better and stopping better. What has to be measured and verified?...Thanks,mjac
The new ones look a little like the old side-pull. But the old side pull has both calipers on the same central pivot. New brakes have two pivots and better leverage and stopping power.
But the new nuts go inside the frame so you may need an 8mm drill.
I also replaced the levers too. New levers have the cable going down and then covered with handlebar tape. Again you can find them at the $25 price point.
THere is more details like the length of the rear vs. front mounting bolts. The Sheldon Brown site explains the details.
#24
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Park Tool just called me. They want me to do a video of my Rubber Mallet Technique. They must have heard about it...Thanks,mjac
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#25
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You need to measure "reach". This is from the center of the brake pad to the center of the mounting bolt. The specs on the replacement brake caliper will tell you the min and max reach that can be covered. Shimano makes normal, medium and long reach bracks. Their low-eng is something like the "Tigra" groupset where bracks are about $25. You can spend $125 for high-end Shimano brakes that work exactly the same but made with lighter and stronger metal but even today's $25 brakes are miles better than even the best "campy" brakes from 1970.
The new ones look a little like the old side-pull. But the old side pull has both calipers on the same central pivot. New brakes have two pivots and better leverage and stopping power.
But the new nuts go inside the frame so you may need an 8mm drill.
I also replaced the levers too. New levers have the cable going down and then covered with handlebar tape. Again you can find them at the $25 price point.
THere is more details like the length of the rear vs. front mounting bolts. The Sheldon Brown site explains the details.
The new ones look a little like the old side-pull. But the old side pull has both calipers on the same central pivot. New brakes have two pivots and better leverage and stopping power.
But the new nuts go inside the frame so you may need an 8mm drill.
I also replaced the levers too. New levers have the cable going down and then covered with handlebar tape. Again you can find them at the $25 price point.
THere is more details like the length of the rear vs. front mounting bolts. The Sheldon Brown site explains the details.
I have recessed nuts too so that is not a problem. It does come with the mounting bolts don't they? Yeah, there are two different lengths for the front and back.,
I had picked up some levers at a COOP for $5. I don't even know what they are. But they are the best levers I have ever had. They are beveled down and outward to receive you hand. The cables go down and under tape so you don't have that forest on top.
Well, Inhave to measure the reach and go from there. I should change all the cables and housing but I finally got the handlebars the way I want with some padding and I would have to take everything apart. Maybe I can cut it from underneath along the cable. Once I find out if it's $23 apiece or for a pair. It has to be apiece...Thanks,mjac