Raleigh Competition GS Steering tube main nut
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Raleigh Competition GS Steering tube main nut
79 model.
Apparently the main steering fork nut is on with locktight.
So, I am going to cut it off.
The top locking nut is okay.
Where can I get the correct replacement nut?
Thanks
Apparently the main steering fork nut is on with locktight.
So, I am going to cut it off.
The top locking nut is okay.
Where can I get the correct replacement nut?
Thanks
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Before destroying the nut why don't you try heating it to try and soften the Loctite? You should be able to get it pretty hot without damaging anything else.
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While I don't know when it may have changed, many older Raleigh Forks have proprietary threads and finding a nut won't be as simple.
Not impossible, but not walk in the shop and pick one up simple
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/raleigh26.html
Not impossible, but not walk in the shop and pick one up simple
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/raleigh26.html
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Got the nut off.
I heated it up with a torch and it was not locktighted on.
The threads look shot, but it doesnt look like it was cross threaded.
More like the aluminum threads are just worn out.
I heated it up with a torch and it was not locktighted on.
The threads look shot, but it doesnt look like it was cross threaded.
More like the aluminum threads are just worn out.
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Aluminum? Mine is steel. Pretty sure it's original, although I didn't buy this new. Mine is either a 78 or 79 Raleigh Competition G.S. ...... Made in England, prior to Raleigh USA.
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Your bike was made in England wasn't it? I don't think Raleigh USA came around till the early 80's. If the headbadge doesn't say Raleigh of England, then it's possible yours is a Japan made frame so differences in components might be real. I was under the impression that all Raleigh Competition G.S.'s of 1978 and 1979 were for certain made in England. But I might well be wrong.
Or, maybe mine is a 1978 and the 1979's switched to a different headset. If so, then maybe I now can assume more positively that mine is from '78 since the serial number is unreadable from bad pitting and rust since Raleigh used large die stamps and they didn't go very deep into the BB metal.
Or, maybe mine is a 1978 and the 1979's switched to a different headset. If so, then maybe I now can assume more positively that mine is from '78 since the serial number is unreadable from bad pitting and rust since Raleigh used large die stamps and they didn't go very deep into the BB metal.
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Generally the non Asian Comps used steel headsets. Most later 1970s examples I have seen had Eng threading (not 26tpi). Most all had steel headset pieces.
This thread is a classic example of good intentions hindered by assumptions. Andy
This thread is a classic example of good intentions hindered by assumptions. Andy
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AndrewRStewart
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I bought this bike new in 79 and cant remember what it had.
I looked at a few photos and the nuts do look chromed.
Probably in 1995+-, when I did the first rebuild, the nuts were changed to aluminum, although I dont remember.
I had a local bike shop do most of the work including the headset. IE the headset on the bike now is not original.
I just assumed they reused the nuts, but I guess they didnt.
And that may be the reason the nut was so badly stuck.
Maybe they used the wrong thread pitch nut.
Thanks for all the comments.
I looked at a few photos and the nuts do look chromed.
Probably in 1995+-, when I did the first rebuild, the nuts were changed to aluminum, although I dont remember.
I had a local bike shop do most of the work including the headset. IE the headset on the bike now is not original.
I just assumed they reused the nuts, but I guess they didnt.
And that may be the reason the nut was so badly stuck.
Maybe they used the wrong thread pitch nut.
Thanks for all the comments.
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I bought this bike new in 79 and cant remember what it had.
I looked at a few photos and the nuts do look chromed.
Probably in 1995+-, when I did the first rebuild, the nuts were changed to aluminum, although I dont remember.
I had a local bike shop do most of the work including the headset. IE the headset on the bike now is not original.
I just assumed they reused the nuts, but I guess they didnt.
And that may be the reason the nut was so badly stuck.
Maybe they used the wrong thread pitch nut.
Thanks for all the comments.
I looked at a few photos and the nuts do look chromed.
Probably in 1995+-, when I did the first rebuild, the nuts were changed to aluminum, although I dont remember.
I had a local bike shop do most of the work including the headset. IE the headset on the bike now is not original.
I just assumed they reused the nuts, but I guess they didnt.
And that may be the reason the nut was so badly stuck.
Maybe they used the wrong thread pitch nut.
Thanks for all the comments.