Foot pain? New clipless
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Foot pain? New clipless
hey,
I got my saddle issues mostly sorted out, just got new Shimano SPD pedals. Got Bontrager SSR multi sport shoes. took a longer ride today, 32 miles. It felt like they were on fire. I ended up moving the cleats back as far as they would go which was just behind the ball of my foot and felt the best. Is it some sort of adjustment period I have to get used to. Is this a more common issue with cyldes since we support more weight on our pedals?
For clarification. I am getting pain in the ball of my foot, somewhere between on fire and a bad cramp.
Update, I think I have sorted it out. A regular shoe has a sole and insole between you and the pedal. My shoe is hard plastic directly under the insole. I'm pushing down on hard plastic with a thin foam insole on between. O expected better from bontraget
Update 2, Lace up shoes with one velcro at the top. Laced super loose with velcro tight. added dr. scholls massaging gel athletic insert (from work boots). Increased cadence. So far I can now go 20-25 miles before issues kick up. Slight discomfort to bad pain in about 3min or so. I usually notices I slowed my cadence and it will mostly go away when I speed back up. I got the metatarsal support gel pad things. gonna try them tomorrow. Thinking new shoes next payday.
I got my saddle issues mostly sorted out, just got new Shimano SPD pedals. Got Bontrager SSR multi sport shoes. took a longer ride today, 32 miles. It felt like they were on fire. I ended up moving the cleats back as far as they would go which was just behind the ball of my foot and felt the best. Is it some sort of adjustment period I have to get used to. Is this a more common issue with cyldes since we support more weight on our pedals?
For clarification. I am getting pain in the ball of my foot, somewhere between on fire and a bad cramp.
Update, I think I have sorted it out. A regular shoe has a sole and insole between you and the pedal. My shoe is hard plastic directly under the insole. I'm pushing down on hard plastic with a thin foam insole on between. O expected better from bontraget
Update 2, Lace up shoes with one velcro at the top. Laced super loose with velcro tight. added dr. scholls massaging gel athletic insert (from work boots). Increased cadence. So far I can now go 20-25 miles before issues kick up. Slight discomfort to bad pain in about 3min or so. I usually notices I slowed my cadence and it will mostly go away when I speed back up. I got the metatarsal support gel pad things. gonna try them tomorrow. Thinking new shoes next payday.
Last edited by Shadowx; 09-08-17 at 09:51 PM.
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Are the shoes new also? Often "hot foot" comes from shoes too tight. Its a common issue with all riders not just clydes.
Last edited by copperfind; 08-26-17 at 06:12 PM.
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Could also be a few other things cleat position or riding position... May be just getting use to riding shoes if you havent warn them before. If you moved your cleats that far back and you can ride like that you may be too far forward on your bike, may be putting more pressure on your foot.
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Could also be a few other things cleat position or riding position... May be just getting use to riding shoes if you havent warn them before. If you moved your cleats that far back and you can ride like that you may be too far forward on your bike, may be putting more pressure on your foot.
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They do seem to run narrow I have a 13.5 EEE tried on a lot of shoes before I found a pair that seemed good... I would try loosening them a bit... You dont want them slipping but also not too snug. If you havent already try looking at bike fit videos and see where you are on the bike.
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They do seem to run narrow I have a 13.5 EEE tried on a lot of shoes before I found a pair that seemed good... I would try loosening them a bit... You dont want them slipping but also not too snug. If you havent already try looking at bike fit videos and see where you are on the bike.
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May be just getting use to riding shoes... loosen a bit and take a few rides... I know if I have been off the bike for a bit I feel it in my feet first few rides.
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If they are 2 bolt spd, what I did for myself was to cut out some thin plastic to put between the insole, and cleat plate. On mine there was just foam there. On longer rides I have a lil hot foot but way better than before.
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I have a hard plastic rectangular plate in mine under the insole. maybe something extra as a buffer...
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I think I got the arch support part wrong, but theres a bump in some strategic spot that has to do with lessening nerve pressure.
Edit: Its called a metatarsal button. Heres an example:https://mikesbikes.com/product/specia...xoCgNkQAvD_BwE
Last edited by Staypuft1652; 08-26-17 at 08:24 PM.
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From my experience: If the cleat is situated away from the widest part of your foot, that means the placement of the foot is not at the correct position and ergonomically incorrect which can result in certain irregularities. The widest part of you foot must be on the spindle of the pedal.
And when you cycle, make sure your foot/pedal is parallel to the ground /road. Do not tilt your shoes in a downwards manner with you toes pointing to the ground.
The issue should be around the positioning of the cleat at the correct point of the spindle, parallel to the bike frame and the ground.
Or your shoe might be too tight or the inner soles are not ergonomical to your feet (raised soles or A or B shaped shoes).
For example, some people simply cannot run or walk in some Sketches model shoes due to the sole shape.
However you did not elaborate on which area of your feet that is hurting...you should mention exactly where.
And when you cycle, make sure your foot/pedal is parallel to the ground /road. Do not tilt your shoes in a downwards manner with you toes pointing to the ground.
The issue should be around the positioning of the cleat at the correct point of the spindle, parallel to the bike frame and the ground.
Or your shoe might be too tight or the inner soles are not ergonomical to your feet (raised soles or A or B shaped shoes).
For example, some people simply cannot run or walk in some Sketches model shoes due to the sole shape.
However you did not elaborate on which area of your feet that is hurting...you should mention exactly where.
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From my experience: If the cleat is situated away from the widest part of your foot, that means the placement of the foot is not at the correct position and ergonomically incorrect which can result in certain irregularities. The widest part of you foot must be on the spindle of the pedal.
And when you cycle, make sure your foot/pedal is parallel to the ground /road. Do not tilt your shoes in a downwards manner with you toes pointing to the ground.
The issue should be around the positioning of the cleat at the correct point of the spindle, parallel to the bike frame and the ground.
Or your shoe might be too tight or the inner soles are not ergonomical to your feet (raised soles or A or B shaped shoes).
For example, some people simply cannot run or walk in some Sketches model shoes due to the sole shape.
However you did not elaborate on which area of your feet that is hurting...you should mention exactly where.
And when you cycle, make sure your foot/pedal is parallel to the ground /road. Do not tilt your shoes in a downwards manner with you toes pointing to the ground.
The issue should be around the positioning of the cleat at the correct point of the spindle, parallel to the bike frame and the ground.
Or your shoe might be too tight or the inner soles are not ergonomical to your feet (raised soles or A or B shaped shoes).
For example, some people simply cannot run or walk in some Sketches model shoes due to the sole shape.
However you did not elaborate on which area of your feet that is hurting...you should mention exactly where.
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hey,
I got my saddle issues mostly sorted out, just got new Shimano SPD pedals. Got Bontrager SSR multi sport shoes. took a longer ride today, 32 miles. It felt like they were on fire. I ended up moving the cleats back as far as they would go which was just behind the ball of my foot and felt the best. Is it some sort of adjustment period I have to get used to. Is this a more common issue with cyldes since we support more weight on our pedals?
For clarification. I am getting pain in the ball of my foot, somewhere between on fire and a bad cramp.
I got my saddle issues mostly sorted out, just got new Shimano SPD pedals. Got Bontrager SSR multi sport shoes. took a longer ride today, 32 miles. It felt like they were on fire. I ended up moving the cleats back as far as they would go which was just behind the ball of my foot and felt the best. Is it some sort of adjustment period I have to get used to. Is this a more common issue with cyldes since we support more weight on our pedals?
For clarification. I am getting pain in the ball of my foot, somewhere between on fire and a bad cramp.
Maybe you need new pedals/cleats as your foot/riding style isn't compatible with them? Initially, I thought I may not be able to use this type of pedal system, but changing the entire thing solved my problem(s).
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One thing I found when I started with 2 bolt SPD pedals was that the black cleat (SH-51) was too confining. I had heat issues, knee issues and just plain sore feet. I thought it was the change from old school cleats and old school shoes, but it was the cleat. I switched to the sliver SH-56 that has a bit more float and it helped, AND I tested a tiny bit of adjustment. Even so I have the pedals at full loose and have never had an unintentional release.
Hope this helps. I still prefer the clips and straps due to muscle memory over the years, but I also love the walkability of SPDs and will not go back except for my vintage bike.
Hope this helps. I still prefer the clips and straps due to muscle memory over the years, but I also love the walkability of SPDs and will not go back except for my vintage bike.
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#17
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Presuming you've had someone who understands cycle shoe fit make sure your fit is correct, check the following:
1. Insoles to anchor your foot and support your arches (including metatarsal arch). If your foot slides in the shoe, it's going to really compress part of your foot. If your arches are not supported, it's going to hurt. Most cycling shoes come with absolute garbage for insoles.
2. figure out how hard you are pushing on the pedals. If you are pedaling at a low cadence but have a lot of foot pressure, this is likely exacerbating the pain. Cycling shoes have much stiffer soles than your athletic shoes so if anything gives in an improper fit, it's going to be your foot. Adding lots of pressure to that equation doesn't help. To alleviate the pressure but keep the same power going to your pedals, increase your cadence but decrease the pressure on the pedal. Pedaling technique is really important for foot comfort.
3. If the pressure is related to the outside of your foot, consider increasing your Q-factor (distance between pedals) by adding spacers. Often a millimeter or two can make a big difference. Common problem for clydes.
J.
1. Insoles to anchor your foot and support your arches (including metatarsal arch). If your foot slides in the shoe, it's going to really compress part of your foot. If your arches are not supported, it's going to hurt. Most cycling shoes come with absolute garbage for insoles.
2. figure out how hard you are pushing on the pedals. If you are pedaling at a low cadence but have a lot of foot pressure, this is likely exacerbating the pain. Cycling shoes have much stiffer soles than your athletic shoes so if anything gives in an improper fit, it's going to be your foot. Adding lots of pressure to that equation doesn't help. To alleviate the pressure but keep the same power going to your pedals, increase your cadence but decrease the pressure on the pedal. Pedaling technique is really important for foot comfort.
3. If the pressure is related to the outside of your foot, consider increasing your Q-factor (distance between pedals) by adding spacers. Often a millimeter or two can make a big difference. Common problem for clydes.
J.
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Well I think I have figured it out. While looking at my shoes I realized there is nothing but a basic foam insole between my feet and the bottom of the shoe, which is all hard plastic.
#19
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& if a loose comfortable fit you would pull your foot out of your shoe as likely as release the shoe from the pedal.
#20
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You don't need padding in your shoe. A cycling shoe and a walking/running shoe are different things completely.
Having your cleat all the way back is the way my wife's bike fitter set my wife up and suggested it to me. He said use your big muscles to ride, not your little ones. This is his website if you want to see who he is: Bicycle Fit Guru ? The Midwest Premier Bike Fit Studio
I had the same fire/pain as you are describing, your shoes are too tight which compresses a nerve in your foot. The suggestion of the metatarsal bump may help too. My shoes are only tightened in the ankle area, everywhere else is loose (8.5 EEEE foot here).
I use the Icebug insoles Slim Medium. Why the slim? I don't have room to give up in my shoe already, why add more bulk. If you add bulk inside your shoe you will hurt more. Took me 2 years to find the right combo, and now that I am thinking about it I didn't even notice my feet on my last ride.
https://us-shop.icebug.com/collectio...le-slim-medium
Having your cleat all the way back is the way my wife's bike fitter set my wife up and suggested it to me. He said use your big muscles to ride, not your little ones. This is his website if you want to see who he is: Bicycle Fit Guru ? The Midwest Premier Bike Fit Studio
I had the same fire/pain as you are describing, your shoes are too tight which compresses a nerve in your foot. The suggestion of the metatarsal bump may help too. My shoes are only tightened in the ankle area, everywhere else is loose (8.5 EEEE foot here).
I use the Icebug insoles Slim Medium. Why the slim? I don't have room to give up in my shoe already, why add more bulk. If you add bulk inside your shoe you will hurt more. Took me 2 years to find the right combo, and now that I am thinking about it I didn't even notice my feet on my last ride.
https://us-shop.icebug.com/collectio...le-slim-medium
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Nothing causes pain for me like overtightening my shoes. When they're right they feel almost too loose, but not enough for my foot to move around. Then, after a couple of hours of riding they need to be loosened some more.
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You don't need padding in your shoe. A cycling shoe and a walking/running shoe are different things completely.
Having your cleat all the way back is the way my wife's bike fitter set my wife up and suggested it to me. He said use your big muscles to ride, not your little ones. This is his website if you want to see who he is: Bicycle Fit Guru ? The Midwest Premier Bike Fit Studio
I had the same fire/pain as you are describing, your shoes are too tight which compresses a nerve in your foot. The suggestion of the metatarsal bump may help too. My shoes are only tightened in the ankle area, everywhere else is loose (8.5 EEEE foot here).
I use the Icebug insoles Slim Medium. Why the slim? I don't have room to give up in my shoe already, why add more bulk. If you add bulk inside your shoe you will hurt more. Took me 2 years to find the right combo, and now that I am thinking about it I didn't even notice my feet on my last ride.
https://us-shop.icebug.com/collectio...le-slim-medium
Having your cleat all the way back is the way my wife's bike fitter set my wife up and suggested it to me. He said use your big muscles to ride, not your little ones. This is his website if you want to see who he is: Bicycle Fit Guru ? The Midwest Premier Bike Fit Studio
I had the same fire/pain as you are describing, your shoes are too tight which compresses a nerve in your foot. The suggestion of the metatarsal bump may help too. My shoes are only tightened in the ankle area, everywhere else is loose (8.5 EEEE foot here).
I use the Icebug insoles Slim Medium. Why the slim? I don't have room to give up in my shoe already, why add more bulk. If you add bulk inside your shoe you will hurt more. Took me 2 years to find the right combo, and now that I am thinking about it I didn't even notice my feet on my last ride.
https://us-shop.icebug.com/collectio...le-slim-medium
#23
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These are what I wear, if you look at the side profile there is no lip on the foot bed, just flat, my fat foot can spill over and I have no issues with it.
https://lakecycling.com/products/mx-...ant=9997316869
Last edited by Yendor72; 08-31-17 at 11:38 AM.
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In looking at the Bontrager SSR Multisport shoes you will notice that the footbed has an outer piece that comes up on the outside of the shoe. That's the problem for people with wide feet. Your foot needs a completely flat foot bed.
These are what I wear, if you look at the side profile there is no lip on the foot bed, just flat, my fat foot can spill over and I have no issues with it.
https://lakecycling.com/products/mx-...ant=9997316869
These are what I wear, if you look at the side profile there is no lip on the foot bed, just flat, my fat foot can spill over and I have no issues with it.
https://lakecycling.com/products/mx-...ant=9997316869
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I take double 11.5 EE or E street shoes and sneakers. My only truly American shoes are Johnston and Murphy and Bostonian wingtips (an 11 EE and 11.5 E) and a pair of Redwing lace up field boots (11.5 E width).
I was surprised to find Shimano shoes to be wide enough. I take a size 47 in their mountain bike line that look like black road shoes, but take SPD cleats and are very, very comfortable and walkable. My feet are also flat, flat, flat. The Shimano shoes have 3 velcro straps so the toe end and middle can be left loose and the ankle made tighter. For me, the middle strap is the one that is most tightness sensitive. I often use support insoles on my sneakers and casual hiking boots, but dress shoes and cycling shoes are without add-in insoles and feel great as they come.
The Shimanos were under $100 on sale. This is now Fall sales time.
I am also looking at a pair of Giro Rumble VR Bike Shoes that are SPD compatible, but will not use the cleats and use them instead for toe clips and straps pedals. They are actually lace up. Velcro straps and toeclip straps are a bad mix. They also have genuine Vibram soles so they will be durable on walking and with straps and quill pedals. They are in the $70-90 range and come in black, blue and olive.
EDIT: Sorry, I just re-read and saw you were EEEE. I have my doubts these would work in your case, but others may find the info helpful.
I was surprised to find Shimano shoes to be wide enough. I take a size 47 in their mountain bike line that look like black road shoes, but take SPD cleats and are very, very comfortable and walkable. My feet are also flat, flat, flat. The Shimano shoes have 3 velcro straps so the toe end and middle can be left loose and the ankle made tighter. For me, the middle strap is the one that is most tightness sensitive. I often use support insoles on my sneakers and casual hiking boots, but dress shoes and cycling shoes are without add-in insoles and feel great as they come.
The Shimanos were under $100 on sale. This is now Fall sales time.
I am also looking at a pair of Giro Rumble VR Bike Shoes that are SPD compatible, but will not use the cleats and use them instead for toe clips and straps pedals. They are actually lace up. Velcro straps and toeclip straps are a bad mix. They also have genuine Vibram soles so they will be durable on walking and with straps and quill pedals. They are in the $70-90 range and come in black, blue and olive.
EDIT: Sorry, I just re-read and saw you were EEEE. I have my doubts these would work in your case, but others may find the info helpful.
Last edited by Bill in VA; 09-02-17 at 12:49 PM. Reason: add updated note.