Mysterious British bike is done, for now.
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Earlville, IL
Posts: 663
Bikes: Some Schwinns, Raleighs, Centurions, Crescent, Bianchi
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 250 Post(s)
Liked 296 Times
in
128 Posts
Mysterious British bike is done, for now.
There have been a few threads about trying to identify this bike going back to 2011, with no luck. Mystery bike
I had it painted by Yellow Jersey, near Madison, WI, and I've put it together mostly with parts I had, and some I bought for this project.
I went with Campy NR derailleurs because I had them and I like them. I'm having issues though, getting it in the 2 large cogs in the rear (28t) when in the large 53t chainring, but I'll get it worked out. It's an Italian made Atom 14-28 freewheel.
I'm using some NOS Simplex shifters.
I went with a Stronglight/Spidel drilled crankset, with Campy pedals.
I'm using an NOS set of Weinmann brakes for now, but I will change to something nicer if I find something. I'm open to suggestions.
I went with a Brooks B17 mounted on a Simplex post.
I used a GB map of England handlebar with an old GB stem.
New Paselas on Wolber Gentleman 81 rims with Cycle Pro Italian hubs.
Here's a few pics. Let me know what you think. All comments are welcomed and appreciated.
I had it painted by Yellow Jersey, near Madison, WI, and I've put it together mostly with parts I had, and some I bought for this project.
I went with Campy NR derailleurs because I had them and I like them. I'm having issues though, getting it in the 2 large cogs in the rear (28t) when in the large 53t chainring, but I'll get it worked out. It's an Italian made Atom 14-28 freewheel.
I'm using some NOS Simplex shifters.
I went with a Stronglight/Spidel drilled crankset, with Campy pedals.
I'm using an NOS set of Weinmann brakes for now, but I will change to something nicer if I find something. I'm open to suggestions.
I went with a Brooks B17 mounted on a Simplex post.
I used a GB map of England handlebar with an old GB stem.
New Paselas on Wolber Gentleman 81 rims with Cycle Pro Italian hubs.
Here's a few pics. Let me know what you think. All comments are welcomed and appreciated.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Pico Rivera, CA
Posts: 4,205
Bikes: 1983 Basso Gap...2013 Colnago CX-1...2015 Bianchi Intenso
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1207 Post(s)
Liked 1,370 Times
in
725 Posts
I seriously couldn't have done better myself.
It looks amazing!!!
It looks amazing!!!
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Madison, WI USA
Posts: 6,162
Mentioned: 50 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2367 Post(s)
Liked 1,756 Times
in
1,196 Posts
Something seems "ouch" about the drillium on the Stronglight. Still, a drop-dead gorgeous build, and the cat clearly approves.
#5
Senior Member
Gorgeous. I am a fan of the drilled Stronglight, but then, I have one on my Raleigh. The bar plugs are a nice touch too. Very classy build.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Point Reyes Station, California
Posts: 4,539
Bikes: Indeed!
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1513 Post(s)
Liked 3,488 Times
in
1,138 Posts
Beautiful!
Campy crank bolt for light mount hole: Nice touch!
Brent
Campy crank bolt for light mount hole: Nice touch!
Brent
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Earlville, IL
Posts: 663
Bikes: Some Schwinns, Raleighs, Centurions, Crescent, Bianchi
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 250 Post(s)
Liked 296 Times
in
128 Posts
Thanks to all of you for the nice comments. The plugs do look nice. I just wish I could do a better job on the wrapping though. I guess I'll just have to keep getting more bikes so I can practice the wrapping technique.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: GWN
Posts: 2,538
Mentioned: 27 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1858 Post(s)
Liked 606 Times
in
403 Posts
Looks Great.
It must be driving you nuts not knowing exactly what it is I know it would me. I can't really explain it but the Frame is puzzling to me. The Fork is definately English but the Frame seems to speak a little French to me. Plus the Shifter Bosses are a real mystery.
What size Seatpost was the best fit? What size BB did you use?
I really think for piece of mind more sluthing is definately in the cards. Plus we need to keep the decal companies in the loop.
It must be driving you nuts not knowing exactly what it is I know it would me. I can't really explain it but the Frame is puzzling to me. The Fork is definately English but the Frame seems to speak a little French to me. Plus the Shifter Bosses are a real mystery.
What size Seatpost was the best fit? What size BB did you use?
I really think for piece of mind more sluthing is definately in the cards. Plus we need to keep the decal companies in the loop.
#11
Bad example
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Seattle and Reims
Posts: 3,136
Bikes: Peugeot: AO-8 1973, PA-10 1971, PR-10 1973, Sante 1988; Masi Gran Criterium 1975, Stevenson Tourer 1980, Stevenson Criterium 1981, Schwinn Paramount 1972, Rodriguez 2006, Gitane Federal ~1975, Holdsworth Pro, Follis 172 ~1973, Bianchi '62
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 850 Post(s)
Liked 274 Times
in
126 Posts
Beautiful work! As for the bar tape, try starting the wrap from the bar ends and taping it where it ends near the stem. The fat modern stuff just can’t be stuffed into the bar ends like old Cloth or plastic bar wrap.
__________________
Keeping Seattle’s bike shops in business since 1978
Keeping Seattle’s bike shops in business since 1978
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Earlville, IL
Posts: 663
Bikes: Some Schwinns, Raleighs, Centurions, Crescent, Bianchi
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 250 Post(s)
Liked 296 Times
in
128 Posts
Looks Great.
It must be driving you nuts not knowing exactly what it is I know it would me. I can't really explain it but the Frame is puzzling to me. The Fork is definately English but the Frame seems to speak a little French to me. Plus the Shifter Bosses are a real mystery.
What size Seatpost was the best fit? What size BB did you use?
I really think for piece of mind more sluthing is definately in the cards. Plus we need to keep the decal companies in the loop.
It must be driving you nuts not knowing exactly what it is I know it would me. I can't really explain it but the Frame is puzzling to me. The Fork is definately English but the Frame seems to speak a little French to me. Plus the Shifter Bosses are a real mystery.
What size Seatpost was the best fit? What size BB did you use?
I really think for piece of mind more sluthing is definately in the cards. Plus we need to keep the decal companies in the loop.
The only way I'm going to figure out who made it is by the serial number, and so far I can't find any maker that uses that series of numbers. 95112 over a 7. I was wrong on the BB threading from the other thread. It is English but it's LH thread on the DS and RH thread on the NDS. I don't know why I thought it was RH both sides.
Andy gave me a set of decals for a Vanni if I wanted to put those on. It's tempting because they're really nice decals. It looks so plain with nothing on it. I did order some Accles & Pollock decals from H.LLoyd but they're the kind you put on with varnish so I have to figure out how to do it first.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 13,125
Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
Mentioned: 269 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4533 Post(s)
Liked 6,439 Times
in
3,704 Posts
You're right, it is driving me nuts not knowing. The English fork is the correct one since the serial number matches the frame. It had one right shifter boss but Andy at Yellow Jersey replaced it with two more that take a standard thread. I ended up using a 26.5 seatpost but it's a little loose so I'm going to use a shim just to snug it up a little. The BB is a 118mm Stronglight.
The only way I'm going to figure out who made it is by the serial number, and so far I can't find any maker that uses that series of numbers. 95112 over a 7. I was wrong on the BB threading from the other thread. It is English but it's LH thread on the DS and RH thread on the NDS. I don't know why I thought it was RH both sides.
Andy gave me a set of decals for a Vanni if I wanted to put those on. It's tempting because they're really nice decals. It looks so plain with nothing on it. I did order some Accles & Pollock decals from H.LLoyd but they're the kind you put on with varnish so I have to figure out how to do it first.
The only way I'm going to figure out who made it is by the serial number, and so far I can't find any maker that uses that series of numbers. 95112 over a 7. I was wrong on the BB threading from the other thread. It is English but it's LH thread on the DS and RH thread on the NDS. I don't know why I thought it was RH both sides.
Andy gave me a set of decals for a Vanni if I wanted to put those on. It's tempting because they're really nice decals. It looks so plain with nothing on it. I did order some Accles & Pollock decals from H.LLoyd but they're the kind you put on with varnish so I have to figure out how to do it first.
Just spit ballin here, but for the time being how about a simple Union Jack for a headbadge, maybe abstract with another small one elsewhere, lower seattube or upper back of. You could name it The or just Riddler on the downtube, again, maybe abstract.
It stands as a testament to our dedication to our chosen obsession to see it through name or no.
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Port Angeles, WA
Posts: 7,922
Bikes: A green one, "Ragleigh," or something.
Mentioned: 194 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1627 Post(s)
Liked 630 Times
in
356 Posts
Very pretty!
The chrome lugs are sweet and that lovely stem jumps right out at ya. The Simplex badge on the seatpost is pretty cool, too. Never seen that before
The chrome lugs are sweet and that lovely stem jumps right out at ya. The Simplex badge on the seatpost is pretty cool, too. Never seen that before
__________________
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Madison, WI USA
Posts: 6,162
Mentioned: 50 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2367 Post(s)
Liked 1,756 Times
in
1,196 Posts
Headbadge - a "veddy British" looking heraldic crest, bearing the letters "WTF".....
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Saigon - South Vietnam
Posts: 139
Bikes: Saronni Colnago 1982; Battaglin 1982, Centurion Lemans RS 1978, 3Rensho Katana 1978, C. Borghi Olympia 1980, 3Rensho Athlete 1980's, Holdsworth 1980's and more...
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked 9 Times
in
5 Posts
What a beautiful built!
Regarding the issue below:
I went with Campy NR derailleurs because I had them and I like them. I'm having issues though, getting it in the 2 large cogs in the rear (28t) when in the large 53t chainring, but I'll get it worked out. It's an Italian made Atom 14-28 freewheel.
You do not need and/or should not try to get it worked out!
Normally, when you need to get in the largest & the 2nd largest cogs in the rear, you should be in the smaller chain ring (42t?). That is when you are climbing. No one needs to stay on 53t chain ring in that case. So, 53t for smaller cogs & smaller chain ring for 26-28 cogs. That's it!
Have you checked about Urago from Nice, France for your mystery frame?
Regarding the issue below:
I went with Campy NR derailleurs because I had them and I like them. I'm having issues though, getting it in the 2 large cogs in the rear (28t) when in the large 53t chainring, but I'll get it worked out. It's an Italian made Atom 14-28 freewheel.
You do not need and/or should not try to get it worked out!
Normally, when you need to get in the largest & the 2nd largest cogs in the rear, you should be in the smaller chain ring (42t?). That is when you are climbing. No one needs to stay on 53t chain ring in that case. So, 53t for smaller cogs & smaller chain ring for 26-28 cogs. That's it!
Have you checked about Urago from Nice, France for your mystery frame?
Last edited by Nguyen Dang; 01-09-19 at 02:02 AM.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 12,955
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
Mentioned: 129 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4847 Post(s)
Liked 3,978 Times
in
2,584 Posts
What a beautiful built!
Regarding the issue below:
I went with Campy NR derailleurs because I had them and I like them. I'm having issues though, getting it in the 2 large cogs in the rear (28t) when in the large 53t chainring, but I'll get it worked out. It's an Italian made Atom 14-28 freewheel.
You do not need and/or should not try to get it worked out!
Normally, when you need to get in the largest & the 2nd largest cogs in the rear, you should be in the smaller chain ring (42t?). That is when you are climbing. No one needs to stay on 53t chain ring in that case. So, 53t for smaller cogs & smaller chain ring for 26-28 cogs. That's it!
Regarding the issue below:
I went with Campy NR derailleurs because I had them and I like them. I'm having issues though, getting it in the 2 large cogs in the rear (28t) when in the large 53t chainring, but I'll get it worked out. It's an Italian made Atom 14-28 freewheel.
You do not need and/or should not try to get it worked out!
Normally, when you need to get in the largest & the 2nd largest cogs in the rear, you should be in the smaller chain ring (42t?). That is when you are climbing. No one needs to stay on 53t chain ring in that case. So, 53t for smaller cogs & smaller chain ring for 26-28 cogs. That's it!
OP, how many teeth on that Stronglight inner ring? To use a Campy NR with a 28 rear, better not go with a spread in front any bigger that 53-42 (and even that is a lot).
Ben
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,439
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones
Mentioned: 178 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5892 Post(s)
Liked 3,479 Times
in
2,081 Posts
This bike is beautiful and it has a lot of nice touches like the campy bolt for the fork and the bar ends. This is very classy.
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: North Bend, Washington State
Posts: 2,947
Bikes: 1937 Hobbs; 1977 Bruce Gordon; 1987 Bill Holland; 1988 Schwinn Paramount (Fixed gear); 1999 Fat City Yo Eddy (MTB); 2018 Woodrup (Touring) 2016 Ritchey breakaway
Mentioned: 291 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 557 Post(s)
Liked 3,825 Times
in
672 Posts
The bike looks great, you do nice work.
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Richmond VA area
Posts: 2,618
Bikes: '00 Koga Miyata Full Pro Oval Road bike.
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 475 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
7 Posts
Bike looks great. I really like the paint, as I'm not a fan of powder coating at all. Looks like it just came off the showroom floor.
#23
Senior Member
Try making an angled cut at the end so you don’t get as much of a “knobby” finish, and a different finish tape or whip finish with an appropriately colored embroidery thread would probably improve that detail.
#24
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Earlville, IL
Posts: 663
Bikes: Some Schwinns, Raleighs, Centurions, Crescent, Bianchi
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 250 Post(s)
Liked 296 Times
in
128 Posts
I completely disagree, If the OP actually rides this bike, the day will come when he crests a hill tired, doesn't think, and pulls that left lever back. Oops! One dead NR derailleur and perhaps some other damage, maybe to that beautiful frame.
OP, how many teeth on that Stronglight inner ring? To use a Campy NR with a 28 rear, better not go with a spread in front any bigger that 53-42 (and even that is a lot).
Ben
OP, how many teeth on that Stronglight inner ring? To use a Campy NR with a 28 rear, better not go with a spread in front any bigger that 53-42 (and even that is a lot).
Ben
It's a 53-42 up front. I'm going to change the setting on the rd and see if that stops it from hitting those gears.
#25
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Earlville, IL
Posts: 663
Bikes: Some Schwinns, Raleighs, Centurions, Crescent, Bianchi
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 250 Post(s)
Liked 296 Times
in
128 Posts
What tape do you have on there? It looks pretty thick like maybe the 3mm Fizik stuff? Cloth would definitely look the part more and give a cleaner line to the bars, but if this is a comfort decision I get it.
Try making an angled cut at the end so you don’t get as much of a “knobby” finish, and a different finish tape or whip finish with an appropriately colored embroidery thread would probably improve that detail.
I usually wrap starting at the ends and ending in the middle, but this time I wanted to try the old way which didn't work out.