digitalbicycle

Man, I wish that were true. My 1986 Stumpjumper Sport that's slowly being converted into a tourer doesn't have front rack brazeons, only has one pair eyelets front and rear, although it does have threaded fender mounts on the fork crown and brake bridge. I'll clamp on the front rack to the fork blades and use hose clamps to add a third water bottle cage, which is perfectly functional, but I do prefer the brazeons to clamps.

As for the OP, go for it!

rufus

can't you just mount both the rack and fenders to the same braze-on?

that's what I did with the rear rack pn my Stumpy. Rack on the inside, fender stays to the outside.

sykerocker 

bigwoo,

Thanks for the comments. I'm really loving that bike, even though all my touring plans for the last three years have invariably fallen through. Both motorcycle and bicycle, no less.

I'm discovering a real fascination with old mountain bikes . . . . and considering I've always been a hard core roadie, that kinda surprises me. There's something about the lines and beauty of the old hard nose/hard tail bikes that really compels me to keep building. I've gotten that Fisher RG-7 running nicely, even through it's not completely period, the Diamondback is about half done, and there's a Raleigh M30 frameset sitting in the attic awaiting a repair on one brake pivot and some figuring what I'd like to do with that.

The nicest part of vintage MTB collecting is that all three of the above were free, and even that Bianchi (75% of the original is in the finished bike) only ran me $30.00.

Now, if I could only do that with Rossins . . . . . . . .

cs1

Sorry to bring this back from the dead. But, I've got 3 old Stumpy frames in the garage. An 83, 85 and 86 complete. As a MTB they're obsolete. But I just can't bear to sell them. So, now I'm trying to resurect them. Anything new happen on the vintage MTB/Tour scene in the last year?

BigPolishJimmy

Since your're bringing this thread back from the dead, I'll add to it by posting a pic of my bike:



I was just trying to build a bike that would hold my weight and size. I took the fenders off a Ross 5-speed cruiser because I liked them and added a rack. I had no idea I was building a touring bike, but hey I suppose it'd work for that. The Schwinn Frontier is a nice lugged frame that I bought to flip, but ended up riding it on my lunch hour and liked it too much to part with. It's a tad small for me, but until I find a mtb frame closer to my size I'm keeping this one. I wonder if I'll get pedal strike if I use panniers with this?

*edit* we had our helmets up for the photo, and it was hot out so we were letting air get to the top of our heads. Normally we ride with them down and on the right way.

Stanger

Oddly enough, I just bought a converted Stumpjumper today. Pics to come later.

Fasteryoufool

I have an '84 Schwinn Sierra that's too big for me as a MTB but sized right for street riding that I set up as a touring/commuting rig. It's not all Cro-Moly, just the main tubes, but it works really well in that role. It's nearly as fast as my Univega Viva Sport, and way more comfortable for distance rides. It's amazing how much extra comfort a large Cro-Mo frame imparts.

I think it's a fantastic idea... obviously.

brockd15 

Happen to have any pictures? I've got an '86 (if I remember right) Schwinn High Sierra that I bought to turn into my wife's touring bike.

cs1

BigPolishJimmy is the best name I've ever heard. I'm changing mine to SkinnyMickTimmy.

SJX426 

Interesting thoughts and conversions! I was wondering what to do with my 97 RockHopper. I have been looking for a front suspension fork that was reasonable in price, but haven't found one with a steerer that is 9.5" long or longer. I used it in 2008 as a commuter cause I couldn't climb the hill to my house on 40/24 gearing after 30 years of not biking. Here is what it looked like at the end of 2008. Looks like I am part way there to a touring bike!
[IMG][/IMG]

due ruote 

Here's my 1988 Stumpy. The bars are Porteur from VO with about an inch cut off the ends.

Fasteryoufool

I don't have any recent ones, but this is it:



I've since added a rear fender, changed out the grips for some cheapie Giant foamies, added a 2nd headlight, a gel saddle I swiped off a kids BMX bike, and a trailer hitch.

The tires are Forte Slick City ST's from Performance Bike, 650 x 1.25", I run them at ~90 PSI.

Almost forgot: I also added a frame pump.

Glennfordx4

I toyed with the idea to use a MTB frame as a touring rig after I put my local pond finder (fishing bike) together 3 years ago. I can really load this rig down with weight and still go off road with out issues so I thought building one for the road would be fun. I went as far as picking up a few nice sets of wheels with Shimano XT and Deore hubs in both 8 and 9 speeds and a few nice cranksets with XT and Deore components to round out the drivetrains, but I haven't found a frame yet at least not one big enough for road use.
Glenn
PS the chain has been replaced with the right number of links and the stem has been replaced with one that has more of a upright position because of back issues I have.

cs1

Little late to the party but that is nice.

Chris_in_Miami

I'm glad you revived this thread, there are some great bikes here and I missed it the first time around. Funny how this topic never goes out of fashion, there have been several recent threads both here, and in the touring forum.

jebensch

Yeah, this is a great one to have dusted off. Very interesting. What happened to the MTBs in the 90's that makes the 80's frames the ones to get? Or is it just that the whole thing emerged in the mid-80's and this is C&V?

kroozer 

I think the 90's bikes had stiffer geometry, and after a while nearly all of them had some type of suspension.

Chris_in_Miami

I think the top tubes grew a bit in the 90's, and the chainstays got shorter. For what it's worth, I've done both, and I'm leaning back in the direction of an early 90's bike. I converted a 90 Rockhopper and then moved to a smaller 87 High Sierra. The HS has a much more relaxed geometry, which is fine when the racks are empty, but it's a pig when loaded. The Rockhopper is livelier and more fun all around.

ish

90s bikes also usually had fewer rack / water bottle mounts, and 1 1/8" zero or 5 degree threadless stems rather than 1" riser quill stems.

4Rings6Stars

I picked up this rig recently. It's a Ross Force One.

nikku 

Yeah, I was one of those who posted recently about using a vintage MTB as a commuter / tourer. Found an '87 Mongoose ATB in original condition that has fit the bill nicely. I'm getting ready to redo the cables, add racks, new tires (Schwalbe Big Apples), new chain and cassette...and that's about it. Probably fenders at some point. Was thinking of adding drop bars, but just don't see the need to. This is not, and will not be my "go fast" bike, I already have a couple of those. It will be my "ride the local hike 'n bike trail home after dark" bike.

To say it has relaxed geometry is an understatement! But it certainly inspires confidence.

WickedThump

I was looking at the pic of the Stumpjumper, then glanced at my Trek 1.1 (road bike). The frame geometry is very similar . The main difference is the sloping top tube, but the head and seat angles are very close.

dddd

With respect to size and geometry, and noting all of the good obserations here, I will weigh in on this conversion to drop bars.

I would first advise selecting a frame that's on the large size, in order to compensate for the shortening effect on the top tube that the older MTB seat angle geometry causes.

And, as far as the frame's head angle, the very relaxed 70-71 degree head angles of these mtb's won't give such solid handling with a long stem and road bar, so again a larger frame size is advised, particularly with the older frames as i believe Chris mentioned. A 70-90mm (horizontally) neck sounds about right to me.

And I would prefer to go with the shorter stays of the later bikes unless I needed heel clearance for panniers.

The Trek 1.1 head angle should be at least 2 degrees steeper than any mtb's, but the seat angle (and thus fit) is similar on the later mtb's starting around '88 to '90 or so, depending on the bike. So, the Trek will steer well with a longer stem than will an mtb frame.

fietsbob

The frame geometry changed from the early Miyata made ones in the late 70s, which were ,
more Repack schwinn cruiser based, to something that climbed in dirt better.

repaired an old SJ sport[dropout replacement], Its my studded tire ice bike now,
Drum brakes , Mustache bars ..

Long chainstays for a loaded touring bike are an asset. weight on the front end
makes a touring bike more stable.

A stable bike would let your attention wander to the nature you ride thru,
which seems why the tour is done.

Upright posture , to look around better..

JReade

I picked up a Hardrock that is slightly smaller than I normally ride, fitted with slicks, and gripshift (ugh). It is remarkably fun to ride, and it's a bit small for me, so I have no qualms jumping it over curbs etc when city riding. NO racks/fenders etc, but I'm thinking I should keep it as a "borrow bike".