Bike Recommendation for 350 lb. Rider
09-12-20, 06:58 AM
#26
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Congratulations!!! The bike will serve you very well! I am recovering from surgery right now and it is my Townie's that are my workhorses for my recovery. Good Luck and keep us posted on your weight journey. Remember, you can't ride the pounds off, you need to work equally hard when you sit at the table!!!!
Quick question: Since the cranks are so far forward, do you have any issues with your toes hitting the front tire when making turns? Some guy posted this issue on YouTube, and I was just wondering.
Will be picking up my bike next week!
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09-12-20, 08:00 AM
#27
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Thanks! And very true... 90% is what you put in your tummy.
Quick question: Since the cranks are so far forward, do you have any issues with your toes hitting the front tire when making turns? Some guy posted this issue on YouTube, and I was just wondering.
Will be picking up my bike next week!
Quick question: Since the cranks are so far forward, do you have any issues with your toes hitting the front tire when making turns? Some guy posted this issue on YouTube, and I was just wondering.
Will be picking up my bike next week!
09-12-20, 10:27 AM
#28
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09-12-20, 10:53 AM
#29
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Toe overlap on that style of bike is probably just foot position on the pedal. It is common in smaller sized roadbikes with 700c wheels. You learn to ride around it.
09-15-20, 04:40 AM
#30
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10-04-20, 01:58 PM
#31
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How's that working out, now that you have some miles on it? IIRC you were concerned about breaking the stem, seatpost and various other components. Has everything been up to the task? Looks like a good choice with a secure riding position. 
Last edited by shelbyfv; 10-12-20 at 06:54 AM. Reason: add pic
10-12-20, 06:55 AM
#32
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^^Pic added^^
10-13-20, 04:50 PM
#33
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2. is not a significant risk either. Forks have had 'lawyer lips' for decades to prevent this. And since you've got this on your mind, you can protect even more against this by checking the front quick-release every ride -- a 5-sec safety check. OR you could get a nutted front wheel instead of a quick-release, OR more and more bikes nowadays have 'thru-axles', which also eliminates that concern (not as easy to find for under $500 though)
3. I would stay away from carbon, stick with aluminum, and make sure you can stick it into the frame a couple inches deeper than the marked minimum-insertion line, and you should be fine.
10-20-20, 02:15 PM
#34
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#1 I believe should not be much of a concern. It is growing more common for mountain-bikes to have 'tapered' headtubes, narrowing from 1 1/8" up top to 1 1/2" below. A much rarer standard (usually only tandems) is 1 1/2" top and bottom. But the standard 1 1/8" threadless design should be sufficient.
2. is not a significant risk either. Forks have had 'lawyer lips' for decades to prevent this. And since you've got this on your mind, you can protect even more against this by checking the front quick-release every ride -- a 5-sec safety check. OR you could get a nutted front wheel instead of a quick-release, OR more and more bikes nowadays have 'thru-axles', which also eliminates that concern (not as easy to find for under $500 though)
3. I would stay away from carbon, stick with aluminum, and make sure you can stick it into the frame a couple inches deeper than the marked minimum-insertion line, and you should be fine.
2. is not a significant risk either. Forks have had 'lawyer lips' for decades to prevent this. And since you've got this on your mind, you can protect even more against this by checking the front quick-release every ride -- a 5-sec safety check. OR you could get a nutted front wheel instead of a quick-release, OR more and more bikes nowadays have 'thru-axles', which also eliminates that concern (not as easy to find for under $500 though)
3. I would stay away from carbon, stick with aluminum, and make sure you can stick it into the frame a couple inches deeper than the marked minimum-insertion line, and you should be fine.
My Townie is pretty awesome. 200+ miles thus far...
