Commuter fat bike?
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Commuter fat bike?
I had a minor back injury a few weeks ago and I'm finding as I recover that bike rides may do more harm than good. The pavement here is kind of a joke -- there are some really smooth stretches and then some ridiculously bumpy spots, and sometimes I think those bumps contribute to new/exacerbated back pain.
Looking ahead, I don't want to up my chances of the pain getting more regular or worse as I age. I'm thinking about what commuter bike to try that is the most back friendly as I want to commute all the time again once I'm recovered. But my budget doesn't support some of the most commonly known fat bikes like the Pugsly. I think if I spent more than $500 on a bike I'd feel guilty about it.
The real question is, would a fat bike make an okay commuter? I would be shooting for those big fat tires, a seat with some springs, maybe a different seat post. Thoughts?
Looking ahead, I don't want to up my chances of the pain getting more regular or worse as I age. I'm thinking about what commuter bike to try that is the most back friendly as I want to commute all the time again once I'm recovered. But my budget doesn't support some of the most commonly known fat bikes like the Pugsly. I think if I spent more than $500 on a bike I'd feel guilty about it.
The real question is, would a fat bike make an okay commuter? I would be shooting for those big fat tires, a seat with some springs, maybe a different seat post. Thoughts?
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I've got no experience with fat bikes, but if you're squeamish about spending $500 on the bike... you're gonna need EMTs standing by when you price the replacement tires and tubes Not sure I even want to look up the price on wheels...
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My last two commutes (36-42 miles route trip) were done on my new fatbike. While they are fun to run and really do smooth out the bumps, they are slow. I would not use one as my every day commuter, but I do plan on using it to commute throughout the winter.
A good example of how they smooth out the bumps was my commute home yesterday. Coming down a hill, as I rounded a corner, I saw a bike eating pot hole too late to avoid it. If I'd been on any other bike, I think I would have gone down hard. On the fatbike, I slightly popped the front wheel and let the rear wheel do what it wanted. I barely felt the pot hole and did not have any issues keeping the bike in control. I was glad to have been riding the fatbike.
A good example of how they smooth out the bumps was my commute home yesterday. Coming down a hill, as I rounded a corner, I saw a bike eating pot hole too late to avoid it. If I'd been on any other bike, I think I would have gone down hard. On the fatbike, I slightly popped the front wheel and let the rear wheel do what it wanted. I barely felt the pot hole and did not have any issues keeping the bike in control. I was glad to have been riding the fatbike.
#4
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The only one I can think of under $500 is the walmart mongoose dolomite, I would recommend a teardwon and regrease if you go that route, and be prepared to start making making upgrades. No idea what the weight is on those. My fully loaded commuter is about 42 lbs, so everyone has their own idea of what a bike should weigh based on their route. I am guilty of buying a mongoose beast last year, very smooth, lots of fun, heavy as a house and no gears, beach cruiser geometry. Not a commuter bike for anything longer than three flat miles in my mind, but everyones route is different. Tire pressure is everything on a fat bike, 20 PSI eliminates a lot of contact patch, but it is not as bouncy either, lots of trade offs.
Good luck,
Good luck,
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Wal-Mart has one for $199. But it weighs almost 50 pounds and your back would hurt for sure after you carry it home.
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Maybe it'd be a better fit with my budget to go with a thudbuster and/or springy saddle? Yay/nay?
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I see lots of fatbike commuters up here in the Minneapolis region and the LBS's around here are starting to have a lot of options. None of which are in the $500 range. You're going to have to wait a few years before they start to trickle through the used market.
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Have you talked to a physical therapist about it? It might be a matter of waiting until you're fully healed. After that, maybe talk to a bike fitter about what positions are easiest on the back.
I would think that Big Apples would provide as much cushion as you'd need for most roads.
I would think that Big Apples would provide as much cushion as you'd need for most roads.
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Haven't talked a phys therapist, but two different docs have said biking is great -- sans bumps. My route is just not bump-free enough, not by a long shot. I've tried it several times and have concluded it is slowing down my progress, as good as the added blood flow felt in the early stages.
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My lower back occasionally gives me problems and the lower positioning of a road bike helps take some pressure off of my spine. Everyone's back problems are different though.
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Definitely would NOT recommend a fat bike if your only reason is back comfort. I own a Pugsley, and while I love riding it in the snow and on trails - I despise riding it to work. It's ridiculously slow. I mean really slow. You will work your ass off pedaling that thing, which may be worse for your back.
I would lean more towards a good mountain bike or a hybrid with an upright riding position, and some fatty type tires like Schwalbe Big Apples and a thudbuster seat post. That will get you a pretty comfy ride and not be as slow as molasses on the fat bike.
I would lean more towards a good mountain bike or a hybrid with an upright riding position, and some fatty type tires like Schwalbe Big Apples and a thudbuster seat post. That will get you a pretty comfy ride and not be as slow as molasses on the fat bike.
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Definitely would NOT recommend a fat bike if your only reason is back comfort. I own a Pugsley, and while I love riding it in the snow and on trails - I despise riding it to work. It's ridiculously slow. I mean really slow. You will work your ass off pedaling that thing, which may be worse for your back.
I would lean more towards a good mountain bike or a hybrid with an upright riding position, and some fatty type tires like Schwalbe Big Apples and a thudbuster seat post. That will get you a pretty comfy ride and not be as slow as molasses on the fat bike.
I would lean more towards a good mountain bike or a hybrid with an upright riding position, and some fatty type tires like Schwalbe Big Apples and a thudbuster seat post. That will get you a pretty comfy ride and not be as slow as molasses on the fat bike.
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I'm an avid fat biker and an avid commuter. I LOVE my fat bike, but would never think of trying to commute on it. Go spend some time at the "drop bar conversion" thread, and you'll see plenty of bikes that can be commuted on that also provide a nice ride over crappy roads. I run a 2.0 tire that is great on pavement and on the trails.
#15
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I think a road bike with fat tires would be more in order. Get something you can put at least 32mm tires--preferably bigger--on.
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Another option is a steel 29er with a rigid steel fork and some giant Schwalbe Big Apple tires in 28x2.35 size and low PSI. That would be a super cush ride and not break the bank at all.
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+1 what's the tire clearance of your current bike(s)? Widen the tires, lower the pressure, consider also a sprung seatpost (as well as perhaps a sprung saddle, and a suspension fork?)
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Sprung seatpost? Suspension fork? No intiendo.
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#20
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The only one I can think of under $500 is the walmart mongoose dolomite, I would recommend a teardwon and regrease if you go that route, and be prepared to start making making upgrades. No idea what the weight is on those. My fully loaded commuter is about 42 lbs, so everyone has their own idea of what a bike should weigh based on their route. I am guilty of buying a mongoose beast last year, very smooth, lots of fun, heavy as a house and no gears, beach cruiser geometry. Not a commuter bike for anything longer than three flat miles in my mind, but everyones route is different. Tire pressure is everything on a fat bike, 20 PSI eliminates a lot of contact patch, but it is not as bouncy either, lots of trade offs.
Good luck,
Good luck,
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In my opinion even though its not what you would want to spend id shoot for a recumbent trike.People with back,shoulder,wrist and numbness problems rave about recumbents.Ive seen them for 3 to 4 hundred brand new single speed.Theres also one for under a grand that is a 7 speed you can make payments on each month.Just another idea to look into if you can find one used.
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Or for that price get 29er with a front suspension fork. Why would you feel guilty about spending more then $ 500.00? What is the price of a bad back? My gas is almost $4.00 a gallon. Quick payback rate.
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Took my seatpost out to size it for a Thudbuster and it looks like they don't sell any in the size it was stamped: 26.0. :-/ Bummer.
There's a cheap suspension seatpost on Amazon, should I give it a try? Amazon.com: Nashbar Suspension 2 MTB Seatpost: Sports & Outdoors
There's a cheap suspension seatpost on Amazon, should I give it a try? Amazon.com: Nashbar Suspension 2 MTB Seatpost: Sports & Outdoors
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Took my seatpost out to size it for a Thudbuster and it looks like they don't sell any in the size it was stamped: 26.0. :-/ Bummer.
There's a cheap suspension seatpost on Amazon, should I give it a try? Amazon.com: Nashbar Suspension 2 MTB Seatpost: Sports & Outdoors
There's a cheap suspension seatpost on Amazon, should I give it a try? Amazon.com: Nashbar Suspension 2 MTB Seatpost: Sports & Outdoors