Ph4r

I've not ridden it yet, but I've become obsessed with this Groupset recently from how it presents itself on paper / screen. I'm looking to get my first Carbon Frame Drop Bar bike and looking to have Di2 from the beginning. Presently my ideal build is something like this:

• Full 8070 groupset (Brifters, FD, RD, Calipers)
• 160 Ice Tech Rotors
• 52/36 Crankset
• 11-34 Cassette
• 700x28c tires
• Alloy Wheels 24+ Spokes

Looking for help on identifying bikes that are near to this or someone to tell me why I'm crazy, or what I should be obsessing over instead. Full Disclosure - I have a French Sparkling Wine taste (not from that region) on a Trader Joe's Budget.

SkepticalOne

I have the identical specs except with a 50/34 crankset I installed on my Trek Domane SLR Disc a couple months ago. Having sold my 6800 mechanical mech, the upgrade was reasonable and I'm enjoying the result immensely.

Ph4r

I've found a few things so far, looking for help finding more options that I can watch for a sale perhaps.

2800USD Save Up To 60% Off Hydraulic Disc Brake, Full Carbon, Aero Road Bikes NEW Motobecane Le Champion CF DISC Di2 Shimano Di2 Electronic Ultegra 22Spd+ Hydraulic Disc Brakes
4600USD https://www.canyon.com/en-us/road/ae...x-disc-8-0-di2
2775USD https://www.amazon.com/Diamondback-B...bon&th=1&psc=1
????USD https://www.scott-sports.com/us/en/p...icle=265346023
3500USD https://www.canyon.com/en-us/road/en...l-disc-8-0-di2
4500USD https://www.canyon.com/en-us/road/ul...x-disc-8-0-di2
3600USD https://www.canyon.com/en-us/road/gr...l-disc-8-0-di2
5000USD https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/b...olorCode=black
5000USD https://www.specialized.com/us/en/ro...=240084-128894
6700USD https://www.specialized.com/us/en/me...=263509-154559
5300USD https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/de...ced-pro-0-2019 (52/36+Power, 11-34)
5000USD https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/tc...ro-0-disc-2019
5500USD https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/tc...sl-1-disc-2019
5600USD https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/pr...-pro-disc-2019
7300USD https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/pr...sl-1-disc-2019
3500USD https://www.ubykcycles.com/orro-gold...18/70780?aux=1

hagak

You may have a hard time finding a bike specced with 52/36 AND 11/34. Just because I suspect that is not a very popular combo. Nothing to prevent you from changing a 50/34 to a 52/36 or 11/28 (more common cassette) to an 11/34 however note a bike that comes with a 11/28 most likely will not have the long cage derailleur and you really need that to get to 11/34. So getting a bike with 11/34 and changing the chainring would probably be the cheaper route. Question if you need that much rear cassette, do you really want a 52/36?

WhyFi

So you've identified the groupset that you want, but what about the geometry? That's kind of important, too. What kind of ride do you want/intend to do?

FWIW, in this market segment (carbon, Hydro Di2) and for a first-time road bike buyer, I probably wouldn't buy online - I'd want the support of a good LBS and I'd want to be able to see/touch/ride the bike first. If you're on a "budget," the last thing you want to do is buy twice.

Steve B.

I really like the look of the Canyon but hate the idea of being locked into a single piece stem and h-bar. Greatly reduces your fit options unless Canyon offers a variety of options.

JasonD67

I'm in the same boat as the OP, looking for a new bike with Di2 and discs, 'cept I've been riding my current bike since the last century (hows that sound!). At first I quickly disregarded Canyon as I would never buy a bike without test riding it first. Well, after a few weeks of looking at bikes I'm now considering Canyon. There are very few, if any bikes, available in the LBS's to test ride once you get to this level of bike (say around 5 grand). I'll call the one bike shop that has a Cervelo R3D (for example) in stock, but it's a 54 and I ride a 58. No go. Or another shop has a 58 Trek Emonda, but it's a year or two old with the old frame and has a 105 group set. A BMC SLR 02 disc? Sure, got one in a 61! Come on down and ride!

And I don't live out in the boonies, I live near DC and Baltimore and there and numerous bike shops around selling just about all brands.

If I can't test ride the bike I'm going to get, I might as well get a Canyon. The bikes have incredible reviews and you get a ton of bike for your money. And one of the best local bike shops lets it be known that they work on Canyon. Still looking...

WhyFi

If you've been riding a road bike for 17+ years and you have an idea of the type of geometry that you want/need, that's quite a different boat from what the OP describes. In terms of buying at the LBS vs not, and w/r/t an inexperienced road cyclist, I think that the pre- and post-sale benefits are equally important. Test riding the exact bike is not so important, IMO. Size/geometry? Absolutely. Test riding 105 when you're thinking about Ultegra? Non-issue. Having someone to check out your bike when this is rattling or that's not shifting cleanly? All beneficial for someone in the early stages of the game.

Ph4r

In case my signature is not showing up, I presently ride an endurance style gravel grinder primarily which presently has 28c Slicks on it and over 7,000km in two years. I have borrowed a few different bikes in the last year from friends or at demo day events and riding 20-40 mile rides, I haven't been able to tell much difference about the geometries I've ridden. I agree with @JasonD67 in that I can't always find the right bike to try locally likely because there are so many specialty varieties out there, and who can stock yet alone sell all of them to stay in business. On the bikes I've ridden, the one thing I do know is that I do not like the high crank position on true CX bikes, but between race, aero, and endurance geometries, I haven't been able to tell the difference in fatigue or other metrics. What has stood out between bikes is what I did or did not like about the saddle and the groupset. I know that I do not like DoubleTap (but I can ride it), because I like to shift multiple gears at once, and when I'm sprinting I don't want to accidentally downshift. I've never had the problem with Shimano of the moving lever impeding my braking. On the mechanical Shimano's I know that I despise how clunky Sora feels since I primarily ride 105, and I like how crisp and smooth mechanical Ultegra is. I LOVE Riding disc brakes and can tell the difference between pure mechanical, cable-actuated hydraulic, cheap hydraulic, and good full hydraulic calipers. I'm an engineer who works with software and complicated electro-mechanical systems daily, and am a sucker for data which is why if I can get a Di2, it will also get a wireless module to talk to my ELEMNT Bolt promptly.

In the 3 years (>10,000 km) that I've been a little serious about cycling, I've lost >40kg (and still loosing) but am still slightly a Clydesdale. I put the gearing above as I currently turn a 50/34 with a 11-32. I frequently max out on both ends. I live in a "flat" area but my typical ride has >300m of elevation gain and if I come to a long climb I find myself wishing I had a lower gear on the way up, and spinning out on the way down. When I'm on the flat or in a group ride, I never seem to be in the right gear for my preferred cadence of 90 to maintain the pace, so going up on the big ring sounds good to me. From what I understand, this is the maximum officially support cassette on this new GS derailleur for the R8070 set.

Thank you so far for your feedback, I welcome the opportunity to learn and will review all replies received.

BTW - I have two friends who ride Canyon and they both love their bike!

Dean V

Cannondale Synapse disc with Ultegra Di2?
I would also stick with 50/34. If you are running out of top end it is you not the gearing. 50/11 is plenty.

colnago62

Kimmo

You're probably better off with a 140 on the back for better modulation; the rear is easy enough to lock up with a single-pivot rim brake anyway.

Ph4r

I'm open to that, but I've been seeing it as a trend perhaps that many disc road bikes are now putting matched rotor sizes on for some reason (lower inventory)?

WhyFi

I don't have any issues with modulation when it comes to hydro and a 160mm rear rotor.

SkepticalOne

Same here - 160mm front and back.

TimothyH

160 front and back here too.

I keep one spare rotor on hand. Having two different rotors means two spares.


-Tim-

Marcus_Ti

160 F/R here. Then again I do loaded touring.