Building a wheelset, need opinions on spokes and lacing patterns
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Building a wheelset, need opinions on spokes and lacing patterns
Hi there,
I've ordered a pair of Mavic CPX 22 rims and Token track hubs from crc. I managed to source for a local wheelbuilder who can lace it up for a reasonable fee.
I'm planning to lace them up with bladed spokes coz I've read that they're more stiffer and stronger (correct me if I'm wrong). Just wondering about the pros and cons of 'normal' spokes and bladed spokes.
Also, what would be a good choice for the lacing patterns? I'm a lightweight rider (59kg/130lbs), so I don't really need my wheels do be heavy and 'bomb-proof'. Thanks
I've ordered a pair of Mavic CPX 22 rims and Token track hubs from crc. I managed to source for a local wheelbuilder who can lace it up for a reasonable fee.
I'm planning to lace them up with bladed spokes coz I've read that they're more stiffer and stronger (correct me if I'm wrong). Just wondering about the pros and cons of 'normal' spokes and bladed spokes.
Also, what would be a good choice for the lacing patterns? I'm a lightweight rider (59kg/130lbs), so I don't really need my wheels do be heavy and 'bomb-proof'. Thanks
#2
Your cog is slipping.
Go 2X with nice double-butted spokes. Bladed spokes aren't very necessary unless you're riding track or hauling ass everywhere you go and - depending on the spoke - you may need to file slots in your hub to accommodate them.
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Yes, DT Swiss or Sapim double-butted spokes. A nice 2x pattern for both wheels would look very nice.
DT Revolution or Competition
Sapim Laser
Go with brass nipples.
DT Revolution or Competition
Sapim Laser
Go with brass nipples.
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What's hauling ass?
Ok got it with the 2x pattern and thanks for the spoke recommendations. Can i get away with a radial on the front, considering my weight?
Ok got it with the 2x pattern and thanks for the spoke recommendations. Can i get away with a radial on the front, considering my weight?
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the amount of crosses depends on how many holes the wheel will have, although it's not the only factor.
for 700c wheels, it's generally...
32h, 36h: 3x
28h: 3x or 2x
20h, 24h: 2x
Also, what kind of bladed spokes do you want to use?
The cheaper single butted bladed spokes are stiff, but, often, they wider than the eyelets on the hub. The only reason these spokes are stiff, is because of sheer mass.
The more expensive double or triple butted bladed spokes... well, they are really expensive and not as stiff, but make a pretty strong wheel.
Honestly, I would just use some DT swiss double butted (2.0/1.8/2.0mm) comp spokes with brass nipples for token hubs and CXP22. It won't kill your wallet, but they are worth every penny.
for 700c wheels, it's generally...
32h, 36h: 3x
28h: 3x or 2x
20h, 24h: 2x
Also, what kind of bladed spokes do you want to use?
The cheaper single butted bladed spokes are stiff, but, often, they wider than the eyelets on the hub. The only reason these spokes are stiff, is because of sheer mass.
The more expensive double or triple butted bladed spokes... well, they are really expensive and not as stiff, but make a pretty strong wheel.
Honestly, I would just use some DT swiss double butted (2.0/1.8/2.0mm) comp spokes with brass nipples for token hubs and CXP22. It won't kill your wallet, but they are worth every penny.
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https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
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depending on your hole count, you can also go for something more interesting, like 3 leading, 3 trailing or crow's foot.
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https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
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There's a lot of technical nonsense being bandied around here. First off, the strength and stiffness of wheels is controlled by spoke tension and not by spoke type. The only advantage of bladed spokes is aerodynamics, and they are pointless for everyday use. The most cost-effective spoke is a highly butted spoke like a Sapim Laser 2.0-1.5-2.0 (14 gage at the threads), which is both lightweight and aerodynamic because it presents a small frontal area to the wind.
OP - Based on your weight and usage, I'd recommend 28H 2X rear and 24H or 20H radial front. IDK if the CPX22 are available in those drillings, however.
OP - Based on your weight and usage, I'd recommend 28H 2X rear and 24H or 20H radial front. IDK if the CPX22 are available in those drillings, however.
#8
Your cog is slipping.
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Yeap I got 32H hubs and 32H rims. I really wanted something with lesser spokes, mainly because I want as light a wheelset as my budget allows, but had to do with a 32H since that's all they had.
Thanks for the spoke recommendations. I think I'll go with normal spokes instead of bladed since you guys mentioned about hub slot issue. I'll ask the dude who's gonna build up my wheel whether he has those spokes.
Thanks for the spoke recommendations. I think I'll go with normal spokes instead of bladed since you guys mentioned about hub slot issue. I'll ask the dude who's gonna build up my wheel whether he has those spokes.
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I have a 32H 3X rear on my soma (pedalroom link in my sig) with DT Swiss Competition butted (2.0-1.8) spokes and I love it so far. If I were to do it again, I'd probably go with a more significant butting on the spokes. It's a shame there aren't many lower spoke count track hubs in the sub $100 range. I guess it's due to the fact that weight isn't as critical on the track.
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It's possible to go radial on the front but I prefer the wheels to match.
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Agreed. I also think there's no point in building a front wheel with that many spokes for normal street or track use, unless you're an ultra-heavyweight. And, unless you are using a front disk brake, there's no point in building a low spoke count front wheel in anything other than a radial pattern.
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All I want for Christmas is some company to make replicas of the 12 spoke Campy Shamals for cheap. It's tough to find low spoke count track wheelsets without breaking the bank :/
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#17
Still kicking.
Heck, I'm building up a 28 hole radial front for the road bike.
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