Dirty in 5 minutes: New shoes for the '51 Raleigh
#51
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Wow, lovely bike and so well done. A real pleasure for me to see bikes like this. What we need now is a leather bag shaped to fit around the springs of the B66 like you see in the old catalog pictures. I used the same approach as you, only with a canvas bag soft enough to conform to the shape of the B66.
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That's a class act. You say you ride it a lot? Great. What kinds of trips?
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
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#54
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Wow, lovely bike and so well done. A real pleasure for me to see bikes like this. What we need now is a leather bag shaped to fit around the springs of the B66 like you see in the old catalog pictures. I used the same approach as you, only with a canvas bag soft enough to conform to the shape of the B66.
I'm partial to it over the larger bags as it's not such a huge visual zit behind the saddle (and I don't run into it when pedaling) but the straps are too long, and I haven't made new holes for it. Yet. Not so much fun to take it off or put it on.
-Kurt
*Come to think of it, this Raleigh wouldn't have been out of place in The Batman (1943)...
Last edited by cudak888; 12-22-19 at 09:46 PM.
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Should I disregard the box art and go for them anyway?
-Kurt
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We switched over to QBP's tubes for the less common sizes about a month ago (costs a bit less). If you are replenishing stock, I would say get the tubes even if they aren't fully threaded. Just out of curiousity, I checked the Specialized website to see if they mentioned the fully threaded stem for any of the Schrader tubes, and they surprisingly did not.
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#58
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If they've pulled a switcheroo in the time since I bought the one I have, let me know...
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So far, the Schwalbes have performed admirably and they've inspired me to do something else on the '51: Find out what has been plaguing the front headlamp.
It didn't take long to find a few issues. Besides the dried-out insulation, there was a small solid wire just twisted around the bulb socket holder as the power contact to the switch assembly. Not ideal.
A bit of soldering and new wires later:
Much better.
FYI, haven't had a chance to stop by a shop with Specialized tubes. Picked up some generics in the meantime just to have on the road.
-Kurt
It didn't take long to find a few issues. Besides the dried-out insulation, there was a small solid wire just twisted around the bulb socket holder as the power contact to the switch assembly. Not ideal.
A bit of soldering and new wires later:
Much better.
-Kurt
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Lyotard made a chrome steel version of their iconic 460, the latter of which the Sylvan Touring is a sort of copy. That chrome version is more rare than the alloy versions, but looks the part on a bike such as this.
#62
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I'm not much of a fan of Lyotard pedals in general (or the 460's penchant for cracking their shafts: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-danger-2.html), but the MKS set was chosen only because they were the only half-suitable pedals I had spare when I split a rubber block.
The rubber-block platforms I'd installed weren't original in the first place, so I chose to go with reliability over trying to find another block.
If I could dig up a wide enough set of original Raleigh rubber blocks, I'd probably swap - but I'd want to cinch the blocks from rotating if so.
-Kurt
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Thank you!
I'm not much of a fan of Lyotard pedals in general (or the 460's penchant for cracking their shafts: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-danger-2.html), but the MKS set was chosen only because they were the only half-suitable pedals I had spare when I split a rubber block.
-Kurt
I'm not much of a fan of Lyotard pedals in general (or the 460's penchant for cracking their shafts: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-danger-2.html), but the MKS set was chosen only because they were the only half-suitable pedals I had spare when I split a rubber block.
-Kurt
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Man, I Totally LOVE it!
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#65
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I read that thread just now- never heard of that before. I think he just had bad luck; The 460 has been my favorite pedal since the mid 1970s. Certainly hearing this isn't great news, but if this were really a problem (like the Pivo death stem or the like) I think we would have heard about it prior to this! Lyotard was making that pedal for decades with almost no change in the design. As it is I've been running the steel variant (which, other than being chrome steel looks exactly like the alloy 460) for the last 12 years on my Raleigh Superbe. It may be that the steel version is an entirely different beast; other than lubrication I've not had them apart. But they are rare- I've only seen two pair ever. Many people think Lyotards are really cheap and some of them are but they did make some of the easiest spinning pedals made anywhere.
Still wouldn't want to put them on the '51 though. If anything de-thrones the MKS pedals, they'll be Raleigh rubberblocks.
-Kurt
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Seems like he's not the only one, but the whole three-piece shaft and raceway thing has just never appealed to me. I do have another model of steel Lyotards (don't remember which) on my '61 Paramount though, and they've put up with a fair amount of abuse.
Still wouldn't want to put them on the '51 though. If anything de-thrones the MKS pedals, they'll be Raleigh rubberblocks.
-Kurt
Still wouldn't want to put them on the '51 though. If anything de-thrones the MKS pedals, they'll be Raleigh rubberblocks.
-Kurt
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I might have a set of those if you're interested. Can't say what shape the blocks are in, but FWIW I've bought new blocks that I've managed to fit on them off eBay. They didn't look original but unless closely examined they looked the part.
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Did a quick ebay search. Yikes...70 bucks...but that's them.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-195...cAAOSwKhhdpgLL
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Last edited by BigChief; 01-16-20 at 05:19 PM.
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I don't think the blocks are important. It's the shape of the end plates that give them that distinctive look. From what I can tell from catalog images, Raleigh used that same pedal design from sometime in the 1930s to the mid 50s. Unfortunately, people replaced many of the old pedals instead of rebuilding them.
Did a quick ebay search. Yikes...70 bucks...but that's them.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-195...cAAOSwKhhdpgLL
Did a quick ebay search. Yikes...70 bucks...but that's them.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-195...cAAOSwKhhdpgLL
The pedals I had on the '51 prior to the MKS Sylvan Tourings were from the 1960's at least. They did not have the end plates and were also on the narrow side - but at least the end plates didn't catch my 12W shoes.
So even if I did find Raleigh rubberblocks, they'd still have to pass a few rideability checks before I could even convince myself. I'd probably have replacement rubber blocks 3D printed with extended end tabs to index against the end plates. It wouldn't be entirely original, but at least my feet won't roll forward while riding.
-Kurt
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