Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

Ironman Information Thread

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

Ironman Information Thread

Old 06-02-17, 06:34 PM
  #76  
RobbieTunes
Banned.
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 27,297
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 378 Post(s)
Liked 1,407 Times in 908 Posts
Originally Posted by cb400bill
We are going to Sticky this thread and see how it goes.
Gratitude to a Semi Pro veteran.
RobbieTunes is offline  
Old 06-02-17, 06:35 PM
  #77  
RobbieTunes
Banned.
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 27,297
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 378 Post(s)
Liked 1,407 Times in 908 Posts
Master model was generally $48 higher, but some shops went $98 and got it.
Still a bargain.

Originally Posted by Vintage_Cyclist
Where obtainable from documents: Prices are from Bicycling magazine reviews, except where indicated. Weights are from catalogs, except 1989 (Bicycling review).

1989
IM Master- ?? lbs $???
IM Expert- 23 lbs $650

1988
IM Master- ?? lbs $600 (cost to me new as a leftover in 1989)
IM Expert- ?? lbs $???

1987
IM Master- 22.7 lbs $650
IM Expert- 23.7 lbs $520

1986
IM only- 22.7 lbs $525

1985
IM only- 22.7 lbs $???
RobbieTunes is offline  
Old 06-05-17, 02:22 PM
  #78  
uncle uncle
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: south kansas america
Posts: 1,909

Bikes: too many

Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 411 Post(s)
Liked 233 Times in 139 Posts
So, does anyone have any idea of how many bikes were made for each year? Sort of a rarity scale?
uncle uncle is offline  
Old 06-12-17, 09:16 PM
  #79  
canklecat
Me duelen las nalgas
 
canklecat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 13,522

Bikes: Centurion Ironman, Trek 5900, Univega Via Carisma, Globe Carmel

Mentioned: 199 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4558 Post(s)
Liked 2,798 Times in 1,798 Posts
The Vintage Centurion site shows what appears to be a reprint of specs either from the manufacturer or a magazine review, specifying a weight of 23 lbs, 1/4 oz, for the 1989 Ironman Expert as originally equipped, including 700x18c tires.

Probably accurate. Using my scale I got 24 lbs with my mostly stock '89 Ironman Expert. The only non-stock bits are a set of 700x23 Vittoria Zaffiro tires, a new thin Bontrager tape with Bontrager reflective end plugs, a couple of cheap plastic Trek bottle cages, and a Lycra covered padded Terry saddle (with the model name obscured -- I can only read the last few letters that appear to read "****GENA").

That site also shows some reprints including MSRP for some bikes, including $650 for the 1989 Ironman Expert.

Originally Posted by arizona cowboy
Does anyone know the weight of each Ironman model by year, and the MSRP by year? - Those two pieces of data seem to be elusive on the Internet.
Originally Posted by Vintage_Cyclist
Where obtainable from documents: Prices are from Bicycling magazine reviews, except where indicated. Weights are from catalogs, except 1989 (Bicycling review).

1989
IM Master- ?? lbs $???
IM Expert- 23 lbs $650

1988
IM Master- ?? lbs $600 (cost to me new as a leftover in 1989)
IM Expert- ?? lbs $???

1987
IM Master- 22.7 lbs $650
IM Expert- 23.7 lbs $520

1986
IM only- 22.7 lbs $525

1985
IM only- 22.7 lbs $???
Originally Posted by RobbieTunes
Hard to tell, they ride "lighter," but if someone asked me, I'd say 21-22 lbs, "give or take" and let them eyeball my bike and wonder why I seem so tall, even at 5'6"
Originally Posted by RobbieTunes
Master model was generally $48 higher, but some shops went $98 and got it.
Still a bargain.
canklecat is offline  
Old 06-15-17, 09:53 AM
  #80  
arizona cowboy
Member
 
arizona cowboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 25
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Dega1979
My 1889 Ironman Master had Sampson clipless pedals as original equipment
That's a really early one!
arizona cowboy is offline  
Old 06-15-17, 09:55 AM
  #81  
arizona cowboy
Member
 
arizona cowboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 25
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Is the Centurion Carbon (from '88) considered an Ironman? - as these as desirable as other Ironmans?
arizona cowboy is offline  
Old 06-15-17, 10:09 AM
  #82  
Dega1979
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Ironman Carbon

Originally Posted by arizona cowboy
Is the Centurion Carbon (from '88) considered an Ironman? - as these as desirable as other Ironmans?
I would expect so I saw a YouTube of Dave Scott riding one in Hawaiian Ironman TRI
Dega1979 is offline  
Old 07-05-17, 11:13 AM
  #83  
fleslider 
Senior Member
 
fleslider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 1,511

Bikes: 1974 Paramount ~ 1974 Raleigh Pro ~ 1977 Pro-Tour ~ 1978 TX900 ~ IronMan 85,87:E/M,88:M/Pro,89:E ~ 98 Peugeot Festina Replica

Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 476 Post(s)
Liked 178 Times in 91 Posts
Originally Posted by arizona cowboy
Is the Centurion Carbon (from '88) considered an Ironman? - as these as desirable as other Ironmans?
There was both a Centurion Carbon and a Ironman Carbon, the Ironman Carbon, Yes . The Centurion Carbon, no. But either one are rare and are always sought after, like the Prestige models.
fleslider is offline  
Old 07-06-17, 11:45 AM
  #84  
fleslider 
Senior Member
 
fleslider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 1,511

Bikes: 1974 Paramount ~ 1974 Raleigh Pro ~ 1977 Pro-Tour ~ 1978 TX900 ~ IronMan 85,87:E/M,88:M/Pro,89:E ~ 98 Peugeot Festina Replica

Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 476 Post(s)
Liked 178 Times in 91 Posts
A bit of info to update, the bottom Bracket shell is 68mm 1.37x24

Axle lengths Stock BB:
87 master 120mm
88 Master 120mm

Note: looks like 113-118 have also been been used with success 120 was long for the needs
fleslider is offline  
Old 07-07-17, 02:49 AM
  #85  
texaspandj
Senior Member
 
texaspandj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Heart Of Texas
Posts: 4,238

Bikes: '85, '86 , '87 , '88 , '89 Centurion Dave Scott Ironman.

Mentioned: 99 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1605 Post(s)
Liked 582 Times in 379 Posts
Findings on my 1989 mostly stock Ironman Master that are different than my other Ironman.
1. Winpista bar and stems as opposed to nitto b15 and stem.
2. Shimano 600 (6400) bottom bracket to match rest of group.
3. Although a small 52cm frame it came with 32 spokes front and rear wheels.
4. The seat post is 27.2.
5. No bio pace.
6. It is in blue marbled color scheme or "Summertime Blues".
Finally it seems to be the quickest handling of all my Ironman including my other 89 abeit an expert.
Here's a pic as I received it from original owner who had replaced saddle tires and wrap, however wasn't sure if the white 6400 pedals were oem.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
20170630_234303.jpg (96.7 KB, 663 views)

Last edited by texaspandj; 07-07-17 at 06:19 AM.
texaspandj is offline  
Old 07-08-17, 05:28 PM
  #86  
RobbieTunes
Banned.
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 27,297
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 378 Post(s)
Liked 1,407 Times in 908 Posts
Originally Posted by fleslider
There was both a Centurion Carbon and a Ironman Carbon, the Ironman Carbon, Yes . The Centurion Carbon, no. But either one are rare and are always sought after, like the Prestige models.
The Ironman Carbon was an '88 with Dura Ace 2x7 and $1195. It had a noodly fork, was nowhere near as stiff as the steel frames, but was a very nice all-day rider, and light for the era. It was also for the US market, as far as I know, and fell victim to the yen's effect on the price at the time.

The Centurion Carbon-R was an updated model based on the Ironman Carbon frame, a year later, minimum, maybe even 1990. The shoulder of the fork was lowered and this greatly mitigated the noodle effect. I believe it was 600 tricolor 8-speed, but it may have been 7-speed; I'm not sure. If it was a US market item, I'd be surprised, as I've seen far more Asian market models. I have no idea the MSRP.

I'm guessing Dave Scott was not a marketing advantage in Australia or the Asian market, or was not licensed there. Many models of the US market were offered under different names in other markets.

Having owned and ridden both, I give the nod to the better riding Carbon-R.

I honestly can't remember if there was a Centurion Carbon vs. a Centurion Carbon-R. The possibility exists that there was a Centurion Carbon with the same frame but 600 tricolor vs. Dura Ace on the Ironman Carbon, and then the updated frame of the Carbon-R appeared later.

Pure conjecture. I dig my Carbon-R a lot.
RobbieTunes is offline  
Old 07-08-17, 09:49 PM
  #87  
canklecat
Me duelen las nalgas
 
canklecat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 13,522

Bikes: Centurion Ironman, Trek 5900, Univega Via Carisma, Globe Carmel

Mentioned: 199 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4558 Post(s)
Liked 2,798 Times in 1,798 Posts
Decided to inspect, clean and relube the jockey wheels on the Suntour GPX rear derailer while replacing the chain. Good thing -- the bearing bolts needed to be snugged down a bit better anyway.

The design made it easy to disassemble and reassemble. Unlike some older Suntour rear derailers it wasn't necessary to disassemble the entire derailer or get into any springs or tricky stuff. Just remove the two bearing bolts and the jockey wheels and half the cage plate come off.

The jockey wheels felt a bit gritty. Cleaned them in mineral spirits and relubed with Park CL-1 chain oil with PTFE. Used a dab of blue Loctite on the threads.

The jockey wheels are marked "G" (guide, upper pulley) and "T" (tension, lower pulley). While some DIY tips recommend maintaining the original assembly configuration this doesn't appear to be necessary with the Suntour GPX. The jockey wheel, bearing bushing and dust caps for each appear reversible -- they're identical for each jockey wheel and there are no arrows indicating directionality.However the jockey wheels, bearing bushings, dust caps and bearing bolts are not interchangeable between the "G" and "T", so I kept each disassembled jockey wheel in separate containers.

***
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
DSC_6165_LR5.jpg (99.6 KB, 640 views)
File Type: jpg
DSC_6168_LR5.jpg (99.0 KB, 641 views)
File Type: jpg
DSC_6176_LR5.jpg (94.8 KB, 643 views)
canklecat is offline  
Old 07-14-17, 01:33 PM
  #88  
canklecat
Me duelen las nalgas
 
canklecat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 13,522

Bikes: Centurion Ironman, Trek 5900, Univega Via Carisma, Globe Carmel

Mentioned: 199 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4558 Post(s)
Liked 2,798 Times in 1,798 Posts
I see from the old catalogs that the Suntour GPX brake levers supposedly have adjustable reach. I peeled back the hoods but didn't see any accessible screws or bolts that might adjust the reach.

I didn't remove the bar tape to look more closely.

Any idea how this was done? If memory serves some older brake levers could be "adjusted" with shims, but I'd rather not bother with that if it's what Suntour meant by adjustable.
canklecat is offline  
Old 07-16-17, 04:26 PM
  #89  
RobbieTunes
Banned.
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 27,297
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 378 Post(s)
Liked 1,407 Times in 908 Posts
I'd leave well enough alone.
RobbieTunes is offline  
Old 07-21-17, 03:11 PM
  #90  
canklecat
Me duelen las nalgas
 
canklecat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 13,522

Bikes: Centurion Ironman, Trek 5900, Univega Via Carisma, Globe Carmel

Mentioned: 199 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4558 Post(s)
Liked 2,798 Times in 1,798 Posts
For Ironman owners with Araya CTL-370 rims, what are you using for rim tape? I need something sturdy enough to protect the tubes from extruding through the nipple holes, but thin enough to not interfere with seating the tire bead.

I'll repost a moderately lengthy anecdote from another thread:

I may have averted a flat last weekend simply by swapping tires.

I'd ridden a set of 700x23 Vittoria Zaffiros on my new-to-me Centurion Ironman for five or six weeks, long enough to be in good enough shape to blame the tires for my not terribly impressive performance. Despite the bike weighing much less than my Univega Via Carisma with rear rack and 700x42 tires, I wasn't much faster on the road bike.

I'd read that Zaffiros have poor rolling resistance so I ordered a set of Schwalbe One V-Guards in 700x23 (only $15 from Jenson). Very highly regarded tires with low rolling resistance, per 2014 reviews.

When I pulled the old tires and tubes I noticed a warning sign I'd seen before: dimples on the inside of the tube, corresponding with the deep nipple holes in the Araya CTL-370 double wall rims.

Last time I'd encountered this was about six months after installing a new wheel on my errand bike, with a double wall Weinmann rim to replace the original single wall rim. After a few months the thin rubber rim tape didn't provide enough support. The tube extruded through the nipple holes and the tips of several dimples had tiny cracks and slow leaks. I replaced the thin rubber rim tape with cloth -- Velox, Nashbar, I don't recall, they're all the same. No problems since.

One of the Araya rims had some ancient rim strip that was hardened and essentially bonded to the rim, effectively providing no support over the deep nipple holes. I tried using cloth rim tape and a new tube but the new tires wouldn't seat. So for now I'm taking a chance the new tube will last until I can replace the rim strip.

The other Araya rim had a newer rubber rim strip and no signs of extruding on the strip or tube. So I just mounted the new Schwalbes on both rims.

The Schwalbe One V-Guards are great, BTW. Very light rolling. I picked up 1 mph on familiar routes without even pushing hard and racked up several personal bests per Strava. Doesn't feel like I'm fighting the tires anymore.

But now I need to find some proper rim strips for both Araya CTL-370's to support the tubes properly.
canklecat is offline  
Old 07-21-17, 05:01 PM
  #91  
T-Mar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 23,233
Mentioned: 652 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4719 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3,034 Times in 1,874 Posts
What you want is high pressure rim strip. It's typically made of plastic/nylon. Harder to apply and remove but more resistant to deformation. I've been using Michelin's version for four decades.
T-Mar is offline  
Old 07-21-17, 05:40 PM
  #92  
canklecat
Me duelen las nalgas
 
canklecat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 13,522

Bikes: Centurion Ironman, Trek 5900, Univega Via Carisma, Globe Carmel

Mentioned: 199 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4558 Post(s)
Liked 2,798 Times in 1,798 Posts
Originally Posted by T-Mar
What you want is high pressure rim strip. It's typically made of plastic/nylon. Harder to apply and remove but more resistant to deformation. I've been using Michelin's version for four decades.
Thanks! I see it now that I know what to look for. I'd been searching generic rim strips for a couplafew days and kept coming up with the same rubber bands or cloth tape. I'll order some before the new tubes extrude through the nipple holes.
canklecat is offline  
Old 07-24-17, 04:56 AM
  #93  
RobbieTunes
Banned.
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 27,297
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 378 Post(s)
Liked 1,407 Times in 908 Posts
FSA and SRAM both offer those rim strips. I think I picked some up at REI
RobbieTunes is offline  
Old 08-02-17, 08:45 AM
  #94  
Classtime 
Senior Member
 
Classtime's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 4,672

Bikes: 82 Medici, 2011 Richard Sachs, 2011 Milwaukee Road

Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1924 Post(s)
Liked 1,954 Times in 1,086 Posts
Is this a good place collect a frame size database? The consensus (seems to me) is to measure the ST center to top (scallop of lug) and the TT center to center. The ST measure is the "Frame Size" ALWAYS even centimeters.

On hand I have: (ST X TT)
1989 Expert: 58x58
1987 Expert: 60x57
1987 Expert: 54x54
Classtime is offline  
Old 08-04-17, 09:08 AM
  #95  
RobbieTunes
Banned.
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 27,297
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 378 Post(s)
Liked 1,407 Times in 908 Posts
Not sure if I posted it here, but here's how Centurion sized them.....

ST=c-bb, measured along the side of the ST to the lowest part of the scalloped opening at the seat cluster, roughly equivalent to c-top but not.
TT=c-c from the ST at the top, measured along the TT, to the center of the heat tube, at that level.

The "general" sizes began at "square" 56x56, and increased/decreased by 1cm of TT for every 2cm step of ST.
STxTT
50x53
52x54(always seemed more like 53 to me)
54x55
56x56
58x57
60x58

I've seen slight variations, but every tape measure is different, and every frame is different, so take everything at face value and understand this was 30 years ago.
RobbieTunes is offline  
Old 08-07-17, 06:57 AM
  #96  
texaspandj
Senior Member
 
texaspandj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Heart Of Texas
Posts: 4,238

Bikes: '85, '86 , '87 , '88 , '89 Centurion Dave Scott Ironman.

Mentioned: 99 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1605 Post(s)
Liked 582 Times in 379 Posts
First I love my new MV. What I noticed is that a 27.2 seatpost is tough to get in, never had that trouble with any other Ironman. Could explain why my other MV has a stuck post. I'll have to keep a maintenance eye on it.
texaspandj is offline  
Old 08-07-17, 09:04 AM
  #97  
AustinFitz
Senior Member
 
AustinFitz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Bush, Louisiana
Posts: 588

Bikes: 1984 Centurion Elite GT 15, 1985 Centurion Ironman Dave Scott, 1983 Diamond Back Ridge Runner, 1985 Mongoose ATB, 1987 Ross Centaur, 1986 Raleigh Marathon

Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 190 Post(s)
Liked 76 Times in 39 Posts
Originally Posted by texaspandj
First I love my new MV. What I noticed is that a 27.2 seatpost is tough to get in, never had that trouble with any other Ironman. Could explain why my other MV has a stuck post. I'll have to keep a maintenance eye on it.
I'm not sure about any of the other model years, but according to Centurion's catalog the 1985 Ironman takes a 27.0 post.

AustinFitz is offline  
Old 08-07-17, 03:47 PM
  #98  
RobbieTunes
Banned.
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 27,297
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 378 Post(s)
Liked 1,407 Times in 908 Posts
'87 Miami Vice should be 27.2


I agree 27.0 on the '85, though I used a 27.2 on mine, go figure. I think it was a cheap CF post, so there's that.
RobbieTunes is offline  
Old 08-27-17, 02:04 AM
  #99  
canklecat
Me duelen las nalgas
 
canklecat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 13,522

Bikes: Centurion Ironman, Trek 5900, Univega Via Carisma, Globe Carmel

Mentioned: 199 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4558 Post(s)
Liked 2,798 Times in 1,798 Posts
Has anyone replaced the inner chain ring from the usual 42T to something smaller? I'm not sure whether it's feasible or cost effective compared with a compact crankset.

I've been trying for almost three months, with lots of HIIT and hill climbs in training, but just can't get along with the stock 42T front and 24 rear cog. Saturday's hilly ride was pretty close to the last straw. I was exhausted by the end of a 64 mile ride with about 2,600 feet of climbing and could barely mash my way up -- walking would have been faster. Not a huge climb for some folks but it's my limit.

I get along much better with the 30/40/50 triple and 13-28 on my Univega, even though the bike is heavier than the Ironman. I feel energized rather than wiped out after a long ride on the same route.

I did get a 13-25 SunRace freewheel, but I doubt there will be a huge difference for climbing. I could try a 28T maximum freewheel, but I'd need to give up indexed shifting.

Seems like changing the smaller chain ring would be the best solution.
canklecat is offline  
Old 08-27-17, 03:24 AM
  #100  
rccardr 
aka: Dr. Cannondale
 
rccardr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 7,851
Mentioned: 234 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2151 Post(s)
Liked 3,380 Times in 1,198 Posts
If you have 105 or 600 on your Ironman, it should index shift a 28 cog without any trouble. Just screw in the B screw and pull the rear wheel as far back in the dropout as you can.


You can buy a 38 tooth inner ring, eBay's the place. That's as small as you can go without replacing the crankset with one that has a 110 BCD.
__________________
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
rccardr is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.