How to remove stuck fixed cup?
04-12-20, 03:12 PM
#1
^that guy^
Thread Starter
How to remove stuck fixed cup?
Trying to remove an Italian bottom bracket fixed cup the from a vintage Bianchi, but the little bastard doesn't want to budge. I've tried the Sheldon Brown method with the 1/2" bolt, nut and washers but it appears to have caved in the center of the cup slightly (RIP Dura Ace cup) and snapped the 1/2" bolt. And yes, I'm rotating counter clockwise to loosen.
04-12-20, 03:16 PM
#2
Really Old Senior Member
Grade 8 bolt?
Penetrating oil liberally applied multiple times starting a couple days before attempted removal?
I lay the bike on its side, cup on the bottom.
Squirt PO into the shell from the top and let it run down the sides of the shell to where you really want it.
Penetrating oil liberally applied multiple times starting a couple days before attempted removal?
I lay the bike on its side, cup on the bottom.
Squirt PO into the shell from the top and let it run down the sides of the shell to where you really want it.
04-12-20, 03:18 PM
#3
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Careful surgery with a grinder? I'm guessing a "Dremel"-type tool would be too weak/delicate to ever get the job done.
04-12-20, 03:24 PM
#4
^that guy^
Thread Starter
Grade 8 bolt?
Penetrating oil liberally applied multiple times starting a couple days before attempted removal?
I lay the bike on its side, cup on the bottom.
Squirt PO into the shell from the top and let it run down the sides of the shell to where you really want it.
Penetrating oil liberally applied multiple times starting a couple days before attempted removal?
I lay the bike on its side, cup on the bottom.
Squirt PO into the shell from the top and let it run down the sides of the shell to where you really want it.
04-12-20, 03:39 PM
#5
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WD-40 is for sissies; actually it is for drying ignition wires, originally, Water Displacer recipe #40.
Get some REAL penetrating oil, Kano Kroil is the best, PB Blaster is second best. Spray it on, tap with a hammer (the vibrations help it penetrate), spray more and WAIT for it to work. Heating the shell with a hair dryer may also help during removal.
Get some REAL penetrating oil, Kano Kroil is the best, PB Blaster is second best. Spray it on, tap with a hammer (the vibrations help it penetrate), spray more and WAIT for it to work. Heating the shell with a hair dryer may also help during removal.
04-12-20, 03:44 PM
#6
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Trying to remove an Italian bottom bracket fixed cup the from a vintage Bianchi, but the little bastard doesn't want to budge. I've tried the Sheldon Brown method with the 1/2" bolt, nut and washers but it appears to have caved in the center of the cup slightly (RIP Dura Ace cup) and snapped the 1/2" bolt. And yes, I'm rotating counter clockwise to loosen.
I, like most everyone, have been taught to remove the adjustable cup first, followed by the fixed cup. We avoid removing the fixed cup because it can be difficult to remove. I propose to stand the procedure on its head. Remove the fixed cup first since it is the hardest one and the wrench needs the most stabilization. The spindle can be used in the same manner as the threaded axle in the above tool but it will allow the wrench to turn with the cup so that the tool doesn’t even need to be removed to completely remove the fixed cup.
Since there are 2 types of spindle, the procedure and fastener used will depend on which spindle is present. The nut or bolt used on the spindle can be used to hold everything in place.
Tool Assembly
The parts for the nutted spindle needed are shown here
A large fender washer, an adjustable cup, and the spindle nut are needed. Another washer may be needed to get the spacing right. The order of assembly follows
From above it should look like this
Turn the wrench as usual. If more leverage is needed, a cheater bar is needed.
For bolted spindles, the order of assembly is the same except a bolt is needed.
This method is much easier to use than other methods. The spindle stabilizes the wrench and turns with it much like a cartridge bearing does. It makes it easier to remove the fixed cup and results in less blood spilled.
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Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
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04-12-20, 03:52 PM
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cyccommute , Mr Brown needs to update the "bible" to include your method
04-12-20, 05:18 PM
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Using the proper tool often makes the job go better, your refinement seems like a great idea.
04-12-20, 05:53 PM
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Worst case scenario weld a large nut to it then wrench it out
this if the Sheldon method won't work or I have rounded the edges by using the wrong tool and am relaxing it anyway
this if the Sheldon method won't work or I have rounded the edges by using the wrong tool and am relaxing it anyway
04-13-20, 06:04 AM
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Yo, cyccommute! Great idea.
04-13-20, 06:17 AM
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Excellent! I'll try it the next time I have a chance. I usually clamp the flats in a bench vise and use the frame for leverage.
04-13-20, 08:56 AM
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Thanks, all.
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Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
04-13-20, 12:08 PM
#13
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good grade helps also try freeze off.....combo of penetrating oil and thermal (cold) shock, and leverage
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Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
04-17-20, 10:38 AM
#14
^that guy^
Thread Starter
Got it! 2 days of soaking in PB blaster and the grade 8 hardware did the trick.
04-17-20, 03:32 PM
#16
Full Member
