Pedals continue to turn when freewheeling (on repair stand)
08-20-20, 03:11 PM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Pedals continue to turn when freewheeling (on repair stand)
Good day:
I have a brand new rear wheel I installed today. I didn't build the wheel, FWIW, a wheel builder did. As I was getting things dialed on my disc brake and ensuring that indexing was good to go, I noticed that when I freewheel, the pedals continue to turn. I can stop them easily enough by grabbing them, but I'm not sure to what to attribute this. Also, I noticed this only happens in the two or three smallest cogs. Also, when I grab the pedal to stop the turning, the chain seems to want jump a bit, as if there is significant pressure on it to continue moving. When I'm mid-range on my cassette, this doesn't seem to happen. I have a 3x10 drivetrain, and my new hub is a Phil Wood.
Everything else seems normal based on a couple of loops around the block. I'm going on a longer ride shortly to ensure everything is OK. I can probably upload a small video I made to youtube if anyone thinks a look-see might be helpful here, but am happy to hear some ideas.
I have a brand new rear wheel I installed today. I didn't build the wheel, FWIW, a wheel builder did. As I was getting things dialed on my disc brake and ensuring that indexing was good to go, I noticed that when I freewheel, the pedals continue to turn. I can stop them easily enough by grabbing them, but I'm not sure to what to attribute this. Also, I noticed this only happens in the two or three smallest cogs. Also, when I grab the pedal to stop the turning, the chain seems to want jump a bit, as if there is significant pressure on it to continue moving. When I'm mid-range on my cassette, this doesn't seem to happen. I have a 3x10 drivetrain, and my new hub is a Phil Wood.
Everything else seems normal based on a couple of loops around the block. I'm going on a longer ride shortly to ensure everything is OK. I can probably upload a small video I made to youtube if anyone thinks a look-see might be helpful here, but am happy to hear some ideas.
08-20-20, 03:18 PM
#2
Really Old Senior Member
Grease seal drag.
Just ride and it will loosen a bit.
Just ride and it will loosen a bit.
08-20-20, 03:19 PM
#3
I'm good to go!
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I know that some people worry about this to no end, but IMO, if the top of the chain doesn't go slack when you stop the pedals it's no big deal.
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08-20-20, 03:29 PM
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Don't worry about it. Phil Wood freehubs have 4 large, thick ratchet pawls and stiff springs, larger axles and larger, extremely well-sealed bearings. They usually do this when new... all those big, stout parts add up to a bit of drag. Once they break in a bit, they stop.
OTOH, they're bar none, no doubt, the best-made bicycle hubs on Earth. "I've had 'em for 30 years, they're on their 3rd rim, and they're still butter" is a thing you hear about Phil hubs quite often.
--Shannon
OTOH, they're bar none, no doubt, the best-made bicycle hubs on Earth. "I've had 'em for 30 years, they're on their 3rd rim, and they're still butter" is a thing you hear about Phil hubs quite often.
--Shannon
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08-20-20, 04:19 PM
#6
Newbie
Thread Starter
OK cool - I sort of thought that might be the case. This is my first Phil Wood hub so I don't have a frame of reference.
08-20-20, 04:42 PM
#7
Newbie
I have a friend who had a similar problem and it happened right after repacking his rear hub. His crank would turn as the elevated rear wheel was turning forward. This was an older bike so I'm not sure how it compares with your Phil Wood hub. I suggested that he read this: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cone-ad...uW56epGZNimptA
It turns out that when the QR was tightened to secure the rear wheel, there was not enough play in the hub to compensate for the pressure that the QR would apply, causing the bearings to bind somewhat.
It turns out that when the QR was tightened to secure the rear wheel, there was not enough play in the hub to compensate for the pressure that the QR would apply, causing the bearings to bind somewhat.
