Part of my new Sidi Trace MTB shoes hit crank arms
#1
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Part of my new Sidi Trace MTB shoes hit crank arms
Hi all - I hope this an appropriate question for this board.
I got my first pair of Sidi shoes a few weeks ago, but didn't start wearing them until this past weekend after I got my new Time Speciale 8 ATAC pedals installed. Before, I had been using SPD with whatever shoes were least expensive in the shops around me.
Anyway, if you are familiar with the Sidi Trace, there is a sizing strap which can be adjusted to the foot size which aligns the strap you tighten down in the center of the foot. See the attached picture - that bit sticking out can strike the crank arm if I'm not careful. My first thought was to see if I could secure it with black tape, but it didn't hold. Duct tape might, but something tells me that's not the way to go about this.
I can cut it but at the moment, I am not sure there is enough material sticking out for me to get "purchase" on. I am thinking I can advance this one more "click" and not affect fitment and at the same time have more material to grab, which might help with a good, clean cut. Another option, if I am able, is to push the strap back in, but that is not possible unless there is a trick to it.
I wonder if any one has any ideas on how to proceed? Would appreciate any thoughts.
I got my first pair of Sidi shoes a few weeks ago, but didn't start wearing them until this past weekend after I got my new Time Speciale 8 ATAC pedals installed. Before, I had been using SPD with whatever shoes were least expensive in the shops around me.
Anyway, if you are familiar with the Sidi Trace, there is a sizing strap which can be adjusted to the foot size which aligns the strap you tighten down in the center of the foot. See the attached picture - that bit sticking out can strike the crank arm if I'm not careful. My first thought was to see if I could secure it with black tape, but it didn't hold. Duct tape might, but something tells me that's not the way to go about this.
I can cut it but at the moment, I am not sure there is enough material sticking out for me to get "purchase" on. I am thinking I can advance this one more "click" and not affect fitment and at the same time have more material to grab, which might help with a good, clean cut. Another option, if I am able, is to push the strap back in, but that is not possible unless there is a trick to it.
I wonder if any one has any ideas on how to proceed? Would appreciate any thoughts.
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pushing it a click or two out to snip off the hanging excess, then retracting it back flush with the clip seems to be the cleanest method.
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I had the exact same problem on my Sidi Drako MTB shoes. Left a substantial scuff mark on one of my crank arms.
I solved the problem by cutting the straps. I didn't love the idea of cutting something on my brand new shoes, but the straps are replaceable and fairly cheap.
I solved the problem by cutting the straps. I didn't love the idea of cutting something on my brand new shoes, but the straps are replaceable and fairly cheap.
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I had the exact same problem on my Sidi Drako MTB shoes. Left a substantial scuff mark on one of my crank arms.
I solved the problem by cutting the straps. I didn't love the idea of cutting something on my brand new shoes, but the straps are replaceable and fairly cheap.
I solved the problem by cutting the straps. I didn't love the idea of cutting something on my brand new shoes, but the straps are replaceable and fairly cheap.
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Is there a documented way to get them to retract? I couldn't find anything. Is there a trick to it?
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I just pulled mine all the way out to trim, then re-inserted them.
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sliding them backwards out does do the job, but I prefer to push it past the fixer to trim it & retract it back, leaving it flush or slightly recessed in the fixer. The dealings with the chaffing from being cut is my personal rationale for my method. YMMV.
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I have the same issue, but only when using my Time ATAC 8's. If i go back to the Alum's I don't have that problem. And despite the extra grams, I think the Alum's are an all around better pedal than the XC-6 or XC-8.