Tempo too far gone?
#2
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It ain't beautiful, but then if it were you wouldn't have gotten it for $10.
I wouldn't bother with much more besides removing the worst of the rust and some rattle can touch up. Then build it with spare parts form the salvage bin, and you'll have a decent beater bike.
I wouldn't bother with much more besides removing the worst of the rust and some rattle can touch up. Then build it with spare parts form the salvage bin, and you'll have a decent beater bike.
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I would have it sand blasted to see the extent of the rust damage, then rattle can it. Framesaver for sure as that looks to have been an outside bike.
#5
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You did okay for 10 bucks. Looks like a good winter project. As others have said, can't really tell about the frame until you clean those areas very well. You will probably find some hidden rust in other places. If after cleaning the frame it is still strong, treat for future rust problems....then you come back and tell us your plans for it.
Look forward to the report! Those are good bikes. Too bad the frame did not come with a fork. Is there tube damage near the HT joining the top tube or down tube ?
Look forward to the report! Those are good bikes. Too bad the frame did not come with a fork. Is there tube damage near the HT joining the top tube or down tube ?
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You did okay for 10 bucks. Looks like a good winter project. As others have said, can't really tell about the frame until you clean those areas very well. You will probably find some hidden rust in other places. If after cleaning the frame it is still strong, treat for future rust problems....then you come back and tell us your plans for it.
Look forward to the report! Those are good bikes. Too bad the frame did not come with a fork. Is there tube damage near the HT joining the top tube or down tube ?
Look forward to the report! Those are good bikes. Too bad the frame did not come with a fork. Is there tube damage near the HT joining the top tube or down tube ?
Last edited by primo123; 11-09-16 at 07:02 PM.
#7
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I think I will do a Evaporust treatment first to assess the dmg. Im not sure I want to spend the 70 (sand blast and podwercoat quote) + decals for this.....Decisions
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The fork is the only thing that gives me pause and is the main thing that could cause a serious crash if it failed. That said, consider this another vote for fully removing all the rust via naval jelly, evaporust and/or some vigourous wire brushing and you will be able to see what the condition is of the metal underneath. I am doing the same and then POR-15'ing and riding the heck out of an '84 Mongoose frame that looks like the BB area was submerged in the Puget Sound for a couple years.
#9
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Any tips on evaporusting? Ive seen people using a kiddy pool, but not sure a gallon would be enough of it. Evaporust is kind of expensive per gallon. Id like to fully submerge the entire frame and fork if possible
#10
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I use old fashioned Naval Jelly. It's basically similar chemistry -- phosphoric acid, but thick enough to stay put when applied, so I can brush it in the areas I'm treating vs. having to buy enough to submerge whole parts.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
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WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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Those are sweet bikes. I'd de-rust it and if you're lucky, the thin tubes will not be rusted through anywhere. Then build it up make a cool and inexpensive racer out of it.
#14
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Like the other products, it doesn't actually remove rust, but converts it to another compound. Depending on your application, you can paint over it, or wire brush it for a smoother finish.
Good luck,
BTW- I just looked at the bottle, mine is a Loctite product.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
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“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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I'm a fan of Evapo-Rust, but I prefer oxalic acid for frames and forks. It works practically the same and it's cheaper, making big jobs more feasible. You can pick up a small tub of oxalic acid crystals (sold as wood bleach or deck bleach) for under ten bucks from hardware or paint stores like Sherwin-Williams. Mix the contents of that small tub with a kiddie pool full of water, let it sit overnight, and voilá.
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That looks like a decent project for ten bucks. What city are you located in?
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#19
Still learning
I would start at the bottom bracket first, since there is significant rust at the base of the frame and if you can't remove the bb cups, well don't bother doing anything else.
Spritz PB Blaster or the rust penetrant of your choice to soak into the threads. Reapply daily for 2-3 days. Then give it a try, use a torch if you need to too.
If PB + patience + heat doesn't work, you may need to dip the frame in an Oxalic acid solution, basically Savogran wood bleach, about $9 for 8 oz of powder soluble with water.
The fork can be soaked too in OA, or hit it with a wire brush and poke at it with a pick.
Spritz PB Blaster or the rust penetrant of your choice to soak into the threads. Reapply daily for 2-3 days. Then give it a try, use a torch if you need to too.
If PB + patience + heat doesn't work, you may need to dip the frame in an Oxalic acid solution, basically Savogran wood bleach, about $9 for 8 oz of powder soluble with water.
The fork can be soaked too in OA, or hit it with a wire brush and poke at it with a pick.
#20
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I would start at the bottom bracket first, since there is significant rust at the base of the frame and if you can't remove the bb cups, well don't bother doing anything else.
Spritz PB Blaster or the rust penetrant of your choice to soak into the threads. Reapply daily for 2-3 days. Then give it a try, use a torch if you need to too.
If PB + patience + heat doesn't work, you may need to dip the frame in an Oxalic acid solution, basically Savogran wood bleach, about $9 for 8 oz of powder soluble with water.
The fork can be soaked too in OA, or hit it with a wire brush and poke at it with a pick.
Spritz PB Blaster or the rust penetrant of your choice to soak into the threads. Reapply daily for 2-3 days. Then give it a try, use a torch if you need to too.
If PB + patience + heat doesn't work, you may need to dip the frame in an Oxalic acid solution, basically Savogran wood bleach, about $9 for 8 oz of powder soluble with water.
The fork can be soaked too in OA, or hit it with a wire brush and poke at it with a pick.
#21
Still learning
A kiddie pool, garbage can, or a bike/flat screen box and a construction grade garbage bag. I use about 1/4 cup per gallon. HD, Lowes, Ace all carry it.
#23
Still learning
Actually, thinking about it, grab your frame and head to Walmart. They sell the wood bleach too.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sterilite...-Blue/45924275
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sterilite...-Blue/45924275
#24
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Actually, thinking about it, grab your frame and head to Walmart. They sell the wood bleach too.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sterilite...-Blue/45924275
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sterilite...-Blue/45924275