SueShanny

whst does lugged mean?

SueShanny

I don’t see any women’s step through frames. I’ve got a step through and it’s small. 17” frame. I’m 6’ so I don’t imagine it can work for me even with bigger wheels & seat extended all the way. Am I right? What height range would be appropriate for this frame? I will likely clean it up & sell it.
thanks for the input!

hokiefyd 

Steel bike frames used to be assembled with "lugs" (and still are in some cases, though usually from more boutique brands). Welding became the standard method of construction with time. Trek was using frame lugs in the early 1990s, and I think 1993 is the last MultiTrack to feature lugs. They went to all tig-welded in 1994 (again, I think that's the right year...it's somewhere in there).

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lugged...e_construction

mechanicmatt

I too have speedrides. 700x42c, there is probably room for 45c but not much more I think. I have a '91 750 that's lugged.

mechanicmatt

5'7-5'10 ish. You need 20" or above likely.

There is one year and one model of lugged step through or mixte, but I'm at a loss at the year. Very rare to find.

c0rbin9

Has anyone had success finding shift cables for the Suntour XCM Accushift shifters some of these came with? The shifters take a cable with a special end piece, I've only been able to find one on Amazon and it's just a bare cable. What housing size is stock?

mtmann

Yea, those proprietary XCM cables are a PITA. The 1990 lugged 750, as well the 950 lugged Singletrack and probably lots of other bikes at that time came with these 3x7 trigger pods. I hunted down and replaced the cables once and now I just scrap the pods; they're ugly and don't really work very well. If you can find 7-speed Accushift thumb shifters they work way better, look cooler, and don't take a proprietary cable. Or put any thumb shifter you can find that runs friction and go old school. Or do what I did with my last Trek 750 and convert it to 3x9 with XT rear derailleur, XT cassette, Nitto Albatross bars, and 9-speed bar-end shifters.

In a pinch you can also take a standard shift cable, put it in a vise so the head is sticking out the top, and carefully file away enough of the head that it fits in the Accushift pod - if memory serves they take a smaller than standard swagged head, right?

Mike M

c0rbin9

Thanks for the reply. I may just go with the basic Jagwire cable I found on Amazon, as it is compatible. I'm new to this so wasn't sure if regular 4mm shift cable housing would be compatible but it sounds like it will be.

I do hope the cable works, as in my mind it would be a shame to trash the Suntour XCM components, which were pretty nice back in the day and which I'm sure function perfectly well when adjusted properly and lubricated. I've noticed that on the rear derailleur at least, the upshifting is indexed while the downshifting is 'semi-indexed' in that there are clicks for each gear but the lever doesn't spring back or ratchet.

I've heard these bikes can get below 24 lbs. if built with 1x and modern components, which is what I would do if rebuilding the bike from scratch. As it is now I'm having too much fun on my local trails for the downtime and besides can't bring myself to take off perfectly good components.

ja1124

I have those shifters on a 1993 720, and I replaced the front derailleur cable with the double-ended universal cable made by Jagwire. The cable end that fits the shifter housing is not an exact match, but it will stay in the housing. My shifters are still working fine. The universal cable fits standard cable housing if you need to replace the housing.

hokiefyd 

I wouldn't getbet against it. My '97 750 is 28 pounds, and that's fully stock, with the heavy silent clutch rear hub, the relatively heavy STX cranks and running gear, and the fairly sturdy Matrix Vapor wheels. The rear wheel alone is a pig, and newer wheels that are reasonably light could probably shed two pounds right there.

Jmpierce

Or do what I did with my last Trek 750 and convert it to 3x9 with XT rear derailleur, XT cassette, Nitto Albatross bars, and 9-speed bar-end shifters.

Mike M[/QUOTE]

I recently finished a rebuild of my 90 750 and did about the same thing. I used Shimano 150 hubs, Mavic rims, XT rear and Sora front with Microtec shifters. I had forgotten how much fun it was to ride.

GrayIS

Picked this up last fall for a "Moustache Bar" conversion. Wont get around to it. Anyone interested.

Korina

Never heard of them. However, I own three pair of iSSi Thumps, which come in two sizes and several colors.

Korina

Any luck raising the bar? Pics?

c0rbin9

No pictures but I raised the bar and adjusted the brake cable as katsup mentioned. I adjusted it to the max height line on the stem, which is still low for me but I don't care enough to change it and it gets more comfortable the more I ride. Ideally I would have a riser bar and a taller stem for comfort/the dirt trails I ride, but I'm having too much fun on my local trails in this configuration to worry too much about it!

Korina

Enjoying the ride is the important part.

FREEBIRD1

I'm restoring this 720 back to service for my neighbor, it's circa 1994 (the tires were petrified) , it has not been ridden for about 15 or so years, she's excited to get it back.

Mogens

Here's a lugged 790 for sale in Madison. I'd be tempted to upgrade my 730 if it were my size, but 17" is too small: https://madison.craigslist.org/bik/d...124780288.html

rseeker

Now with more rack!

I spray-painted the struts, after sanding and cleaning. I got a pretty good finish match with semi-gloss satin. (The struts are aluminum; Rust-Oleum is just what I had. on hand.)

There's a problem with the struts though. You can see they splay out toward the front, meaning I can't get two of the bolts in at the deck. I may have to make an adapter plate and get a couple more bolts.

More lighting and side reflector panels to come.

c0rbin9

Is the black tape to make the bike less conspicuous to thieves?

rseeker

Yes, that's the idea. Trying not to stand out too much, if that makes any difference.

Also to protect the decals, since part of this bike's life includes being hidden in a drainage in the woods while I go off and do volunteer trail maintenance for half a day. The way in is through brush so things can get scraped up. The bike came to me in such good condition I feel obliged to protect it. Really, I'd be happier if I could have found something already distressed so I wouldn't have to worry about it, but there's little choice of used steel where I live and I was lucky to find this one.

Also, the part of me that likes to show off is not the best part of me. I've let it off leash in the past and it's better if I keep it contained. Covering up the flashy parts was an intentional act of humility. All in all, it seemed like the right way to go.

I cut out pieces of heavy-duty construction trash bag to match the shapes of the decals, taped those on with tiny pieces of scotch tape, then wrapped clear Gorilla tape over top. I didn't want to put tape directly on the decals. That mess on the seat tube is from trying to use pieces of inner tube as the protective layer, but even that was too thick and the Gorilla tape wouldn't conform to it so I switched to construction trash bag for the rest.

hokiefyd 

You can run the struts to the inside of those mounting points on the frame. My 750 is pictured below, from when I had linear pull brakes on it (it's back to cantilevers now). I have small rubber washers between the struts and the frame to prevent scratching of paint.

combover

Nice old 790, was to big for me so I had to re-home it

rseeker

That was my first try, inserting from the center like yours, but I had almost no room to fit a hex wrench in there, it was very slow going getting out the first screw tried. I wasn't sure if I got the second screw in there I'd ever be able to get it out without an unbelievable headache. Also, running the struts to the outside gave me better clearance for the straddle cable. I'll have to look again. I'd be braver if the screw heads accepted an open-end wrench, but these heads are round on the outside ... I can't tell if that's how yours are.

I like that rubber washer idea.

hokiefyd 

Yes, I have typical Allen bolts in it, with rounded heads and internal hex. You could get some hex-headed bolts at the hardware store (M5x0.8mm). That could make it a little easier to get to. I agree the clearance there is tight. Another idea is a strut kit, like this one. The struts are somewhat bendable, and the mounting "lug" at the rack can angle to suit a bunch of different configurations. Your local bike shop may have some offset struts in a parts bin they'd give you, or sell for cheap. You can see the offset struts well in the picture below. I got these from a local bike shop for something like a dollar apiece.