thook

firstly, i have a few bikes from the early 90's wherein the rear cantilever set up entailed a piece of liner through a brazed on noodle at the seat/top tube junction. i've located two items which i believe is what i need, but wanted to make sure. moreover, clear is what i'm looking for, but not sure if the clear i've found is the correct thing

clear..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Jagwire-Slick-Lube-Liner-for-Link-Shift-or-Brake-Housing-Kit-4x2000mm/273502578374?epid=18011374878&hash=item3fae0626c6:g3cAAOSwwR5dUeAl

failing that is this black option..
https://www.amazon.com/Jagwire-Black...ustomerReviews

secondly, i'd like to use some 6500 brifters for my new build, but it comes with a 7spd altus a20 bottom pull mtb triple front derailleur. i know there's the cable rerouting method to make that work, but i'd prefer no mod's necessary. iow's, with cable rerouting there is more hand effort required to make the shift. i'd like the shifting to be rather effortless and still shift across all three rings of the mtb crankset. to boot, and to be picky, i'd like a derailleur that perhaps has a more early 90's aesthetic vs the chunkier looking modern offerings. in that regards, i recall in my years of forum/web perusing there was option that bridged those gaps. however, i don't recall who made it exactly. i only recall something along the lines of "alpine" in the name and that it was a "touring" derailleur more or less. at any rate, i hope someone knows what the heck i'm alluding to here...lol

thanks for any help along these lines!
matthew

Andrew R Stewart 

Using casing liner to reduce friction on no casing stretches of cable is a common thing. Note that most liner will wear faster then casing does but it's cheap and easy tp replace yearly.

Shimano never intended road and MtB front levers , cranksets and ders to work together when your parts were made. You can try various cable anchoring methods but most will come to the frustrating conclusion that this is still a miss match that doesn't work consistently and results in poor shifting and/or chain rub. Andy

canklecat

In a pinch I've used the hollow plastic stems from generic cotton swabs as liners for routing cables through metal noodles and braze on guides along the bottom bracket shell and around the seat cluster. Works fine, smooths out the shifting and braking.

thook

yes, thank you. i'm aware it's common...or was, but are either of those products....particularly the clear liner....what i need to use?

well, there's more than a few users that might disagree about that. but, no matter. i'm just looking for the derailleur i mentioned that does indeed work with my proposed combo. i've seen it mentioned many times in the past. i'll keep digging around, playing with keywords, and likely i'll find that info, again

anyway, thanks!

thook

that's a neat idea! i happen to have some, too. i'll see if it'll work. the '93 mongoose crossway i recently found had a full length of liner from the housing stop near the front of the top tube all the way to the seat junction noodle. maybe that's not critical....to have the full length. the two early 90's mtb's i have didn't a full length; a GT backwoods and a yokota grizzly peak. at any rate, i'll give the q tip thing a go next week when i have time to do some building. gotta work all weekend.

thanks a bunch!

2_i 

Just to second the advice, I originally got that Jagwire liner to work with segmented housing, but then expanded its use to other circumstances. It works very well. I had some other Chinese liners that were no match.

JoeTBM 

What about drink stirrers from a bar?

You can find them in a variety of colors too

HillRider

I've done that on road bikes but it's just to protect the paint on the top tube from rubbing by the exposed brake cable and to quiet rattling.

thook

doh...i'm sorry. stupid moment. it was a "trekking" or apline crank i was thinking of. seems 7 years i started a thread along the same lines. i'd forgotten about that. and, one of the recommended solutions was the trekking crank and a road FD. fair enough

otoh, as i was seriously trying to find the info i "know" i'd run across before about the "alpine" FD (pffth), some folks have mentioned getting STI to work with older mtb FD's and cranks. more specifically, an LX and/or XT. yeah, don't know about that. it was mentioned it being a fussy set up (duly noted, andrew stewart).....though it did apparently work. i have an old LX, so i could try it, but i may just wind up going with some ergo's....as i've done before

thank you much for the straw idea! funny, too, 'cause those are the colors on the mongoose...haha. perhaps dollar tree will have them

veganbikes

The Jagwire liner is for the Elite Link Housing but also works well as a replacement for the stuff Kleins used. It is quite good stuff but the Elite Link kits are awesome. Really lightweight, compresionless and smooth.

thook

found the alpine derailleur i was thinking of when reading about something unrelated....lol. so, just "completing" the thread for reference>>

quote from link below...post #24.....:

"AC
I built my bike Oct 2012 using Tiagra 10 speed STI and Tiagra STI 4603. This paired with an IRD Alpine front derailleur and Velo Orange triple crank set (48, 36, 24). In the rear I’m using a Shimano 105 derailleur and a Tiagra 10 speed cassette 12 – 28. All works well and I enjoy the closer gear spacing of the 10 speed 12 – 28 cassette pared with the wide range of the triple."

https://www.renehersecycles.com/trou...h-sti-triples/

IRD apline FD: https://store.biketouringnews.com/ir...nt-derailleur/

KJK

For a short piece of liner a WD-40 straw works quite well in a pinch!