P!N20

(Italian: L’Altare Syncro alla Chiesa di Campagnolo)

The Campagnoscenti may worship here.

The Campagnolo Syncro shifting system occupies that turbulent space between 7 speed friction shifting and 8 speed indexed shifting – be it on the down tube or incorporated into the brake levers. Often described as unreliable and temperamental at best, part of the appeal is Campagnolo’s reluctance to concede to their Asian rivals which resulted in some pretty eccentric designs while building on the undeniably beautiful C-Record gruppo of 1985.

There’s something ethereal about Syncro; what exactly is it? It began with Campagnolo’s experiments with slant parallelograms and indexed shifting and laid the foundations for their development of shifting components right up into the 2000s. Dual mode rear derailleurs, dual function shift levers, coloured inserts and G-springs all had a part to play.

This thread is to celebrate everything Syncro and Syncro 2 whilst providing spiritual guidance for the uninitiated.



Timeline:

1986 – Introduction of 6 & 7 speed Syncro shifting system without any components to actually utilise it.

1987 – Introduction of Syncro for Chorus with Campagnolo Chorus (C010-SM) and Campagnolo Chorus (C010-LG) rear derailleurs and 'C-Record' Syncro Levers (Cat. No. 529). Syncro 2 mentioned in Croce d’Aune catalog along with an image of the 'C-Record' A221 Syncro 2 levers. Or is it Syncro II?

1988 – Introduction of Syncro 2 alongside Syncro complete with compatability charts with Record A221 Syncro levers, Record A010 rear derailleur and Athena D010 in the dealer parts catalog.

1990 – Introduction of 8 speed – Croce d’Aune, Record and Chorus gruppos. So one assumes you could get 8 speed inserts for your Syncro 2 levers.

1992 – Introduction of Ergopower Control Levers EC-02RE CG and index only Record RR Shifting Levers SL-01SRE CG. While this point arguably signals the end of Syncro/2/II, both 8 speed shifters effectively contained the same workings as the Syncro 2 levers with a larger barrel for more cable take up for the additional gear, albeit without a friction mode.

1995 – Record (SL-11SRECG) and Veloce (SL-11SVLCG) shifters get a third G-spring.

1997 – Introduction of 9 speed. Record and Veloce levers still 8 speed.

1998 – Introduction of 9 speed Record SL-09SRECG levers and SL-09BECG bar-end levers.

2000 – Introduction of 10 speed SL00-BE10CG bar-end levers.

2001 – Downtube shifters not included in the spare parts catalogue.

Resources:

Disraeli Gears

Tears For Gears:
- The Syncro Rainbow
- Syncro Tips and Tricks
- Campagnolo Syncro II Shifters
- The Last Gasps of Syncro

Velobase:
- Campagnolo Chorus (short cage) C010-SM
- Campagnolo Chorus (long cage) C010-L
- Campagnolo, C-Record Syncro (Cat. No. 529)
- Campagnolo Syncro II, C-Record A221
- Campagnolo Syncro II, Athena
- Campagnolo Athena D010
- Campagnolo A010, (C) Record Corsa A010

thinktubes 

Is this the one where the lever plastic bits turn to goo?

cudak888 

For the exasperated mechanics who will undoubtedly find this thread via Google in their fruitless search to figure out how to make their Syncro work, shut out everything else and read this:

Especially the second one.

Remember, Synchro is not witchcraft and it's not substantially different than any other indexed shifter in principle.

It's the product of unleashing a shifting system with completely customizable detents, complicated further by it's pairing with Campagnolo derailers that all require different cable pull to achieve the same travel (how about standardizing the RD first, geniuses?).

Combining this with non-ramped freewheels/cassettes that were designed to be overshifted with friction shifters didn't help.

-Kurt

P!N20

I haven't heard of this problem, but would like to know more.

Chombi1 

The problem I found with the Syncros is they were inconsistent.
One ride might go with almost flawless shifting, then for some reason, the next goes really bad. And it seems like no amount of adjusting will get them right for good. I never really liked indexed shifting anyway, so I just usually turn off the indexing on them.
I'm doing sort of OK with the Syncro on my Bottecchia Professional, but I think I will just eventually exorcise the Syncro curse from my Montello with the set of Campy Doppler shifters I got some time ago.

verktyg 

^^^^

My 1988 Bianchi Giro came with 1st generation Synchro shifters and the last generation Victory gruppo. The bike was almost new when I got it in 2007.



I WASTED a whole afternoon trying to get Synchro levers to index shift consistently.

I had 3 different versions of NOS or almost new Sychro levers, 3 different approved chains and 3 different approved 13-26T 6 speed freewheels plus a good mix of indexing internal parts.

Before starting on the project I read ALL of Tears For Gears articles on Synchro shifters.

I could get a combination to work OK on the stand but a test ride around the block and they wouldn't index properly with either the shifts to the large sprockets (26T max) or to small end (13T) not repeating.

I finally took Tears For Gears advice and neutered the best looking version of the Synchro levers. I removed the indexing guts and made them permanent friction shifters... and OH BTW the Syncho levers never worked smoothly in friction mode, that's why I gutted them.

Truth be told, 1. Campy never believed in indexing and 2. Campy disrespected Shimano so much that they would never adopt anything that the Japanese developed - until the bitter end!

The secret to easy indexing is an upper pulley that's has some lateral side to side float so the chain self centers on the sprocket!

ARGH!

verktyg

RobbieTunes

My experience only:

Built a Cinelli with Syncro "1" from a Raleigh Team. It worked great on the Raleigh, never worked on the Cinelli.
Swapped in 8sp Chorus Ergo instead. Sent the group to a BF member, to put on his Canopus, and never heard from him again.

Bought a Colnago with Syncro "1," which worked great. Took it off the bike and have never gotten it to work right again.
That being said, the R shifter is in pieces and apparently not back together properly, to even restart the nightmare.

My Super Corsa has Syncro "1" which works great. Not touching it.

Have an incoming bike with Syncro "2," which the seller says works just fine. There is a set of Record Ergo shift levers here, "just in case."

So is my experience. The charts with the colors make my head spin.
Numerous shops have told me "you need this, you need that." Appears they don't know, either.

Simplex and Suntour handed Campy its hat on friction. Shimano and Suntour handed Campy its hat on indexed downtube.

Campy fought back to somewhat of a draw on the Ergo/STI battle front.

The EPS/Di2/eTap war is underway, and Campy is fighting it out with eTap for 2nd.
Thankfully, all of them work, and pricing/loyalty seems to affect the sway.

Spaghetti Legs 

This is my attempt to dominate the global Syncro market. I’ve had up to 3 bikes with Syncro but only one right now. The only complete failure was trying to use it with my De Rosa and a C Record RD and part of that was I couldn’t get it to shift a 26 tooth cog. This Merckx is 1st gen C Record with 6 speed 13-25 Suntour freewheel and a red insert. I think using a modern 8 speed chain helps a lot. I’ve thought about starting a thread in which people list success stories to help people put their own shift groups together.

Lascauxcaveman 

My experience with Synchro was that the indexing was quite vague. Those detents were more of a shrugging suggestion than a precise click. Combining that with a rather heavy lever action made me not really want to ride that particular bike very much.

It did make me appreciate the delicate and relatively precise friction shifting feel of my NR-equipped bike more, though.

ryansu

So your saying there's a chance....

verktyg 

Yes, a snowball's chance in hell!



pulsus a mortuus equus - fake Latin for "beating a dead horse"

verktyg

verktyg 

I had a mess like that too but mine were NOS or almost new and clean. The straw that broke the camel's back was when I dropped the tiny set screw one version used on the insert spindle.

The mohel cometh... "it wont be long now!"

"Fixed" a euphemism for neutering!

Special Campagnolo Tool # 1 for fixing Synchro levers:



verktyg

"Why do you bang your head against the wall? Because it feels so good when I stop!"

Chombi1 

I don't remember now if it is just my 1st gen Syncro or my 2nd gen one or both, but there's actually some sort of over-shift action built into it, which translate to the vagueness that was mentioned. It does not feel like definite detent when you shift it, there seems to be additional play after the click that you wonder whether to push the lever further after the click or you leave it alone...
This additional play makes me think why bother with indexing if that's in the system.
BTW, my 1st gen Syncro on my Bottecchia Pro, actually shifts better than the later 2nd gen syncro on my Montello. Makes me think it's a set up problem on my Montello, but I tried everything adjustment-wise and I can't seem to improve it. Last resort would be to switch out the 6 speed insert in the lever. Maybe the one in there has some wear that's causing the problem.....
I think I'll try that before switching over to the Dopplers.

P!N20

​​​​​
According to the Tears For Gears user guide, you really need to give the D-rings a good tighten - put a screwdriver or similar through the D-ring for leverage and give it a good turn.

TiHabanero

There was only one person in our shop that was able to get Syncros to work. He said something about the proper cable tension in the middle of the cluster, and that is where he started adjustments, from the middle of the cluster. No matter who else tried, Al was the only one to get the hang of it. He was also a wiz at setting up Delta brakes. Dang, he was as anal as one can get. Mr. Detail.

P!N20

Forgive me Tullio, for I have sinned.

I set about restoring my Pinarello which I had been riding quite happily with Shimano 600 tricolour/105 gear. Of course it needed an Italian groupset, so I bought a cobbled together groupset from a friend - mainly Chorus but with 1st gen Ergo levers and 8 speed wheels. I knew there would be bits I'd swap out, but at least it would get me going. I didn't know anything about Syncro at the time, but the RD was the Chorus dual mode aka A-B model. So I've got 8 speed Ergo levers trying to shift a 7 speed RD on an 8 speed cassette. You'll be surprised to hear it didn't work - OK in the high gears, from mid range on just kept pulling out of gear:



So I swapped the rear derailleur with an 8 speed Chorus. Perfect. Many miles of buttery smooth shifting. I was so happy I even built myself some wheels:



Earlier this year I decided to participate in a retro ride (Noosa Strade Bianche in Queensland, Australia) which required downtube shifters. So I bought some 8 speed Record DT levers (indexed) and set about installing them. I thought it would be an easy swap - both the Ergo levers and the DT levers have the same functionality, right? Wrong! I could not get the levers to hold low gear - there was just too much tension on the cable. I could get it to hold in the workstand, but it only took the lightest touch of the lever to flick back to 2nd. On the road it had no chance. Man, they looked good though.



So after much cursing and trying various fixes, I conceded defeat and attempted to convert the shifters to friction. Now keep in mind these shifters are not intended to be ran in friction mode like their older siblings. However, I found if I took an internal 1mm thick washer out the G-springs don't engage with the insert and you have friction shifters. Well what do you know, flawless shifting returned, praise Tullio.



Now, I did a few 100k+ rides prior to the event, and didn't have any problems. Yet on the day I noticed I'd be spinning away in a high gear on a nice long straight and 'ker-klunk', the chain would drop down to the next cog. It wasn't too bad, so I just thought it was something to look at when I got home.

But it got worse. Any load on the drivetrain and it would slip - taking off from the lights was a nightmare. I refused to believe it was the shifters, so I futzed around with the cables and RD trying to solve the problem. No dice. Anyway some 7 speed dual function DT shifters came up for sale at a good price so I grabbed them just to see if it was the shifters. I installed the drive side lever, set it in friction mode and...perfect. So the Record levers hacked to friction mode were actually losing tension as I rode along. And yes, I had the D-ring done up super tight. I've actually been riding it with the mismatched levers as I'm kind of feeling I'm not done with the Record levers, but to be honest I'm not sure how I'm intending to address that.

So where does that leave me?
1. Why didn't my Record indexed levers hold gear? Would they have more chance with the 3 spring version?
2. Why did my hacked Record friction shifters suddenly decide they weren't going to stay in one position?
3. Is it worth trying to put an 8 speed insert into the dual function shifters?
4. What would happen if I returned the 1mm washer to the Record levers, but took the G-springs out?

P!N20

Got any 8 speed inserts or three spring Record levers in that lot?

Spaghetti Legs 

No sir. The 8 speed levers are all mounted and serving me well!

Lascauxcaveman 

Be that as it may, the shifting effort was already higher than any other shifters I've had, so, bollocks on that idea. My hands are tremendously strong but they shouldn't have to be, just actuate a simple gear change.

Phooey.

nomadmax 

Syncro seven speed bliss When climbing the freewheel to lower gears, over-shift then push it back to the click. When dropping down the freewheel to higher gears, push the lever until it clicks and you're good. DA and Sachs 7 speed freewheels seem to work best for me.

sykerocker 

AKA, "Screw This and Just Go With Shimano Indexed Shifting". Which makes more sense, is technologically more desirable, damned close to infinitely adaptable, and above all IS ABSOLUTELY MORE RELIABLE!!!!!

OK, it's doesn't have the status and snob value of Campagnolo. I've always found that riding with my nose in the air can cause accidents.

dddd

I've always had good results with Synchro equipment when the parts matched up well enough and when I used modern chain.

I always start by oiling the grease residue inside of the shift lever indexing mechanism.

In one case I wanted to use a Sunrace 7s freewheel instead of the proper Regina one, but the cog spacing was slightly off and it was miserable, I couldn't find a decent adjustment.
I persisted, next changing to a Shimano 9s chain, and suddenly it adjusted easily to work perfectly!
Narrower chain can definitely make up for some degree of indexing incompatibility, and Shimano's definitely shifts the best.

P!N20

Syncro 2, 8 speed shifters: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/14322414...&ul_noapp=true

Do want, can't afford.

RobbieTunes

When I look at Synchro shifters, I see the hostility in their eyes.

RobbieTunes

I have a complete Synchro 7-sp group here, with really nice wheels.
I have a complete Synchro 2 8-sp group here, with all Record components, including wheels, to match.
I even have appropriate 8-sp Record Ergos, in case things go wrong.
I even have the appropriate 8-sp Racing T FD/RD/Crankset, in case I want to climb.
I have a nice Guerciotti frameset, in red/white/blue, by TSDI, to build. It has a nice Campy steel headset.
I'm building it with downtube shifters, tubulars, and nice shiny bits.

Dura Ace. I want to ride it, not look at it.

If I want to ride 7sp Campy, I'll use Triomphe.