Looking to permanently bond nut to axle: Which two-part epoxy?
#1
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Thread Starter
Looking to permanently bond nut to axle: Which two-part epoxy?
I have an obscure Shimano Saint derailleur (m800) that I've building a bike around and finding the right axle for it has been a huge hassle.
It's a 10mm thru-bolt and the derailleur acts as the nut. I bought one and it was not long enough and I have not been able to find one another that I know is long enough.
However, I have a plan!
I will be able to get a standard axle with the correct threading and length, I then plan to epoxy a nut on one end of it to act as the bolt head. If I have room I will lock two nuts against each other, but I hope to find an epoxy that would do the job regardless.
I have JB-Welded before and know the drill: prep it correctly, let it set, slather it on like crazy, etc. I just want to know if anyone knows of a product that would outperform it in this application, or if anyone has done something similar in the past.
TL;DR: Need two-part epoxy to turn a nut and axle into a bolt with head. Advice?
It's a 10mm thru-bolt and the derailleur acts as the nut. I bought one and it was not long enough and I have not been able to find one another that I know is long enough.
However, I have a plan!
I will be able to get a standard axle with the correct threading and length, I then plan to epoxy a nut on one end of it to act as the bolt head. If I have room I will lock two nuts against each other, but I hope to find an epoxy that would do the job regardless.
I have JB-Welded before and know the drill: prep it correctly, let it set, slather it on like crazy, etc. I just want to know if anyone knows of a product that would outperform it in this application, or if anyone has done something similar in the past.
TL;DR: Need two-part epoxy to turn a nut and axle into a bolt with head. Advice?
#3
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Would it really work better than J-B?
#4
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Notch axle end with Dremel and tighten with stout screwdriver?
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'84 Trek 850--spinbackle-built, '85 Trek 670 Campy Nuovo Record--project, '87 Trek 560 SS/Fixed--project, '87 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp w/ Deore XT--Specialized-built, '87 Rossin Record, '03 LeMond Wayzata--commuter,
'?? TST Mtn Bike frame--project, '07 Tsunami Tandem--home-built
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Drill a small hole through the nut and axle while together and press fit a pin in it.
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it would be hard to beat the two nut idea if you have the clearance and enough threads. even if you have to file or grind the nuts to make them thinner. make one a cap nut for a finished look.
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Depending on length of nut, you might be able to take a M10 SHCS and use it as the jam feature. Overlap the nut off the end of the axle, thread the SHCS into the exposed end, and wedge. This would give you an allen wrench on the outside.
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I'm not a fan of the JB Weld idea because honestly, I think the more fluid loctite will work better have deeper penetration. I don't think you'll get enough JB Weld in there to secure it as tightly as you'd like. I would try the loctite before the JB Weld. If the loctite doesn't cut it, than I agree with a spot weld on the end being the best approach followed by a two nut approach... with any of the above, I'd still use the loctite as well. The idea of a pin, or lockwire, or whatever looks good on paper but I don't think it would look clean if you actually secured it that way; I'm not a fan of drilling through the axle unless you have a good drill press and know you can get a good straight and clean hole.
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That's a little harsh, I'd have gone with "Man up", but yeah...
Yet another solution (other than the obvious buy the part) would be to fill the threads of the axle by brazing 1/2" or so of it, allowing for the with (- 2mm) of the nut. One of my mechanics loves to weld, braze and solder, he'd be all "let me, let me"...
Yet another solution (other than the obvious buy the part) would be to fill the threads of the axle by brazing 1/2" or so of it, allowing for the with (- 2mm) of the nut. One of my mechanics loves to weld, braze and solder, he'd be all "let me, let me"...
#12
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Loctite 271
If you ever want to take it apart, you will need a torch.
Note most rear axles are M10x1 ; most M10 SCHS are M10x1.5 by default; M10x1.25 and M10x1 are also sold.
McMaster has M10x1 threaded chro-mo rod McMaster-Carr
If you ever want to take it apart, you will need a torch.
Note most rear axles are M10x1 ; most M10 SCHS are M10x1.5 by default; M10x1.25 and M10x1 are also sold.
McMaster has M10x1 threaded chro-mo rod McMaster-Carr
#14
Banned
+1 , the Loc Tite corporation makes many more compounds than the Thread-loc stuff .
ask directly : Loctite Product Advisor. Expert guidance to find the best adhesive, glue and sealing solutions. | Loctite Adhesives
ask directly : Loctite Product Advisor. Expert guidance to find the best adhesive, glue and sealing solutions. | Loctite Adhesives
Last edited by fietsbob; 06-06-14 at 12:52 PM.
#15
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Thread Starter
Thanks for the replies everyone.
I think that I'm going to go for two nuts locked against each other, further secured with red threadlocker.
I think that I'm going to go for two nuts locked against each other, further secured with red threadlocker.
#16
Banned
you can also use a big hammer and a center punch, and distort the threads in the nut by making a punch dent in the Outside on opposite sides.
#19
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Relativity pissing matches aside..
Ive banged on the edges of flat head bolts , in the ship yard , to keep them from un screwing ..
you distort them and the edge of the hole at the same time.. use the Big Hammer ..
shake resistant nuts are manufactured like that , made then dented with a automated punch.
Ive banged on the edges of flat head bolts , in the ship yard , to keep them from un screwing ..
you distort them and the edge of the hole at the same time.. use the Big Hammer ..
shake resistant nuts are manufactured like that , made then dented with a automated punch.