Internal cabling makes me suicidal
#27
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i don't know why an middle class american with a little bit of discretionary income would work on anything to the point they are suicidal, even if it is just melodramatic metaphor.
Another thread somewhere here starts with "rage!" and goes on about internal niples. I'd walk away long before i got to that.
-tim-
Another thread somewhere here starts with "rage!" and goes on about internal niples. I'd walk away long before i got to that.
-tim-
Besides, some people are a bit tenacious and obsessive, and like a challenge.
Last edited by Cyclist0108; 06-30-19 at 10:25 PM.
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#29
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Can I bring it to you after I fail at it some more today? (You will have to remind me which place you work.)
I have the sleeves from the original install, and some mint-flavored, waxed dental floss, a shop vac and a rare-earth magnet of biblical proportion, so what better way to squander one of the nicest days yet (at least in Bonny Doon)?
I have the sleeves from the original install, and some mint-flavored, waxed dental floss, a shop vac and a rare-earth magnet of biblical proportion, so what better way to squander one of the nicest days yet (at least in Bonny Doon)?
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Yep...I did something similar about a month ago. Fortunately, I only removed the rear shifter/cables. I tried vacuum cleaners, thread, magnets, needles, and all sorts of other crap from around the house and got no love.
So I went and humiliated myself at the LBS. It came out cheaper than buying the special tool (which I will hopefully never need again - lesson learned!)
So I went and humiliated myself at the LBS. It came out cheaper than buying the special tool (which I will hopefully never need again - lesson learned!)
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I sometimes use the two hook method.
two thin wires like 14-16ga solid strand copper.
I bend and open loops on both wires and feed from both ends and play this the wires until I get them to hook together and then pull one of the wires through. Now you have a drag line for the cable. If the wire is thin enough, you may be able to cut off the loop and thread the cable housing over the copper wire to the opposite side.
two thin wires like 14-16ga solid strand copper.
I bend and open loops on both wires and feed from both ends and play this the wires until I get them to hook together and then pull one of the wires through. Now you have a drag line for the cable. If the wire is thin enough, you may be able to cut off the loop and thread the cable housing over the copper wire to the opposite side.
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It's times like this you will have to realize, this is a 6-pack job. (or a bottle of wine, whichever comes first to hand)
#33
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...on all my internally rouited cable frames, it's pretty easy to get the cable to go in the entry hole, and if it's pointed in the right direction, it eventually runs on past the exit hole. You can see it there, giving you a smug look and saying, "go on, try and make me hit the exit hole".
At that point, I reach in with a cleverly designed, homemade device manufactured from very thin gauge single strand steel wire, something on the order of those needle threaders that people use for threading sewing machine needles, back out the cable until the end is back past my device, and run it forward again a short distance. Here's a picture of a needle threader and my best wishes in your endeavor. You usually need a bigger wire loop than a standard needle threader...but if your frame tube diameter is small enough, sometimes even that will work.
At that point, I reach in with a cleverly designed, homemade device manufactured from very thin gauge single strand steel wire, something on the order of those needle threaders that people use for threading sewing machine needles, back out the cable until the end is back past my device, and run it forward again a short distance. Here's a picture of a needle threader and my best wishes in your endeavor. You usually need a bigger wire loop than a standard needle threader...but if your frame tube diameter is small enough, sometimes even that will work.
My trick is to position the bike so that I can see the cable exit hole and so the cable exit hole is on the bottom of the tube. That's the hard part.
When you push the cable through the frame gravity makes it want to run along the bottom of the tube. When you see the end coming past the exit hole, snag it with something like that needle threader.
Sounds more complicated than it is. The most time consuming part really is figuring how to position the bike.
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My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
#36
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Just buy the Park tool for installing internal cables. It makes the most frustrating cable routing job a 5 minute procedure. Literally. Worth every penny.
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Lucille
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The mini shop-vac vacuum cleaner was $25 at Costco (and, unlike the magnet thingie, I can use it for other stuff). The dental floss was a free handout from the dentist. It worked in less than 60 seconds.
Also, I have plenty of magnets. I didn't have much success with them.
Also, I have plenty of magnets. I didn't have much success with them.
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I ran a set of cables through a Chinese carbon road frame recently. It was a 2nd hand frame, so the sleeves had been removed. It wasn't so bad, as I have plenty of good magnets handy in my shop.
More difficult was the "through the aero handlebar" routing of shifter and brake housing. Getting them to navigate the bend in the bar and keep their position next to one another was a workout for the fingers. Anyway, it all worked out, but was a couple of hours effort.
More difficult was the "through the aero handlebar" routing of shifter and brake housing. Getting them to navigate the bend in the bar and keep their position next to one another was a workout for the fingers. Anyway, it all worked out, but was a couple of hours effort.
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Are they in a separate thread? I feel like I'm falling behind here.