FSA Crankset
10-01-18, 04:59 PM
#1
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FSA Crankset
I have an older SE-Lager frame with a "what I presume" is the stock Crankset. It's an FSA CK-400A with 130BCD, 170MM crank arms, and a 44 tooth chainring. I believe that the the 44 tooth chainring is out of round. I've tried the Sheldon Brown chain tension method with little success. I ride it daily and while it hasn't popped the chain off, it bothers me. I'd like to get a better chainring first, and see if it is any better. I guess it could be the crank arm as well, but I'd like to try the least expensive route first. I run a 17 tooth cog in the rear, and I like the gearing where it is at.
Any suggestions on a quality 44T chainring would be appreciated.
The offending chainring...
Here is a pic of my bike...
Any suggestions on a quality 44T chainring would be appreciated.
The offending chainring...
Here is a pic of my bike...
10-01-18, 06:20 PM
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aire díthrub
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Depends on what you consider ‘top quality’ and what you’re willing to spend. Your issue is going to be availability, because you’re using a 130bcd crank. Not a lot of rings being manufactured for 130 that are designed for fixed/ss use. The first that comes to mind would be the Sugino messenger and the All-City 314 messenger. Both come in 130bcd 44t. The sugino is likely more expensive, but not necessarily better.
If you think somethings out of whack, you should probably replace the crankset and bottom bracket as well. I would be willing to bet that’s more likely where your problem is anyway.
If you think somethings out of whack, you should probably replace the crankset and bottom bracket as well. I would be willing to bet that’s more likely where your problem is anyway.
10-01-18, 06:31 PM
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i think your correct but was hoping to try a chainring first. I did Google the model of the the current crankset and it seems it is was entry level crankset. The frame / bike is a 2010 I believe. I traded my son for it a few years back, and I honestly don't remember much of the details. I'll check out the Sugino messenger and the All-City 314 messenger. Thanks for the reply.
10-01-18, 06:56 PM
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depends on how much you're willing to spend but it's usually more economical to buy a mid-range new crank set with chainring, then just the chainring by itself.
and I agree that unless you spring for a whole new crank set there's a chance you can still have the issue of inconsistent chain tension, which I know you said bugs you but it's really not a big deal.
and I agree that unless you spring for a whole new crank set there's a chance you can still have the issue of inconsistent chain tension, which I know you said bugs you but it's really not a big deal.
10-01-18, 07:22 PM
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depends on how much you're willing to spend but it's usually more economical to buy a mid-range new crank set with chainring, then just the chainring by itself.
and I agree that unless you spring for a whole new crank set there's a chance you can still have the issue of inconsistent chain tension, which I know you said bugs you but it's really not a big deal.
and I agree that unless you spring for a whole new crank set there's a chance you can still have the issue of inconsistent chain tension, which I know you said bugs you but it's really not a big deal.
10-01-18, 07:25 PM
#8
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You can easily check if it's the chainring or crank that's out of round. Hold a straight-edge or something against the seat tube, parallel to the ground, so that it sits just above the chainring. Spin it around by hand. If the gap between the straight-edge and teeth changes as it turns, it's not round. At that point you can remove the ring, and repeat the test against the crank itself, to see if the five holes are
I'd do this before spending any money at all, since the problem could be the ring, the crank, both, or something else entirely.
I'd do this before spending any money at all, since the problem could be the ring, the crank, both, or something else entirely.
10-01-18, 07:27 PM
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You can easily check if it's the chainring or crank that's out of round. Hold a straight-edge or something against the seat tube, parallel to the ground, so that it sits just above the chainring. Spin it around by hand. If the gap between the straight-edge and teeth changes as it turns, it's not round. At that point you can remove the ring, and repeat the test against the crank itself, to see if the five holes are
I'd do this before spending any money at all, since the problem could be the ring, the crank, both, or something else entirely.
I'd do this before spending any money at all, since the problem could be the ring, the crank, both, or something else entirely.
10-07-18, 06:20 PM
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Clark W. Griswold
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Such nice parts for a lager. You could probably buy 3-4 Lagers for the price of some of those components.
The straight edge idea is not a bad one but if you are looking to ball out which you clearly have started I would go with Sugino 75 Direct Drive. External BB, 144 BCD, cold forged cranks to high standards and it comes with a Zen chainring which is a high quality chainring. So it will further bling out the bike and be compatible with todays modern 24mm External BBs which you can find from many many many manufacturers so you can get even a CeramicSpeed BB (please don't as you would be better served with a cheaper ceramic BB and a nicer frame)
The straight edge idea is not a bad one but if you are looking to ball out which you clearly have started I would go with Sugino 75 Direct Drive. External BB, 144 BCD, cold forged cranks to high standards and it comes with a Zen chainring which is a high quality chainring. So it will further bling out the bike and be compatible with todays modern 24mm External BBs which you can find from many many many manufacturers so you can get even a CeramicSpeed BB (please don't as you would be better served with a cheaper ceramic BB and a nicer frame)
