Originally Posted by BigChief

I suppose it would be best to measure the head tube to be sure, but the stepthrough and the 23" gents head tube look darn close to me.

Originally Posted by markk900

Great job Peter. Saddle looks exactly like the Wrights on my wife’s 55 Standard Model K. How do you find the koolstop 45mm? I used the continentals and they are ok; the 45mm look better.

Originally Posted by BigChief

Very good job. That turned out beautifully. Hang on to the old bent trigger shifter. They can be repaired. I've fixed a bunch of em. I see you found the correct shifter cable in the old, pre-pinch bolt style. Very nice.

Originally Posted by PeterLYoung

Just completed the refurbishment of my 1957 Phillips P2 step thru bike which I have previously written up and posted.

I don't know where it was kept but it survived in good cosmetic condition, all the chrome work polished up well after 48 hours in white vinegar.

The rims I polished up after dismantling the wheels, so much easier when no spokes are present. Had the wheels rebuilt with stainless spokes. The paintwork was all original with decals in 'fair' condition, some were flaking off so I compounded as much as I dare to clean up the paintwork and then clear lacquered the frame, fenders and chain guard.

All bearings were stripped cleaned and reassembled with new balls except those inside the replacement Sturmey Archer SW 3 Speed, which were in good shape (the original I thought had lost the change toggle so I obtained a couple more 1957 SW's and used the best one as a replacement to rebuild the rear wheel. When I stripped the original I found it still intact but by that time the wheel was rebuilt with the replacement hub). The replacement was stripped, cleaned and re assembled. It works fine, changes gear OK and engages correctly, it runs silently as it should.

The bike is all original except for the following:-

Tires & tubes

Spokes

3 Speed (same vintage as original)

3 Speed change cable

Brake cable outers (original inners reused, they were in good condition)

Brake blocks, replaced with Koolstop 45mm.

Test rode it last night and it rides beautifully, really pleased with how it turned out.

Some more Photos

Originally Posted by BigChief

Nice work. Interesting that the cable ends are different from modern. At least you didn't have to deal with Raleigh ball end cables. Most times, the old brake cables have steel ends that are silver soldered on and can be reused on new inner cable. If you ever have to make up new inner cables with old ends, the whole trick is to glob a lot of silver solder past flux a good 3 inches up the cable so it won't blacken from the torch. I'm interested in knowing how the SW hub is working for you.

Originally Posted by PeterLYoung

I have been riding the Phillips now it is completed and the SW Hub is functioning perfectly, no slipping, missed engagements and is eerily silent. The only thing I notice is that to change down a gear requires more trigger pressure than say an AW, this is due to the extra spring in the hub holding back the selector, it is very noticeable but not a problem once you get used to it. It is a shame it was a commercial/design failure as it a sweet ride.

Originally Posted by Iron Horse

Just recently came into posession of a matching set of these, a men's and a Woman's. Both about in the same shape for $25 a peice. I decided to start on the women's first (to practice on!), as my daughter has taken a liking to it, and wants to join me on the next Lake Pepin tour. Haven't bothered yet to see what type of hub, just cleaned off enough to see that both are stamped Sturmey Archer, and '63 dated. Bike is mostly disassembled, and I have started polishing the paint to try to bring it back.
I apologize for the crappy indoor shot of the drive side of the bike, it would not let me upload the outdoors picture.... Grrr.
The chainguard was the first to get the "treatment," and it turned out pretty well I think. I have finished the front fender, stays and "hood ornament," but have not taken pictures as of yet, as I have not got the fender reassembled. Any suggestions? Or words of wisdom?

Originally Posted by Salubrious

Sure. Remove the bottom bracket (don't use a hammer to extract the cotter pins- either make a press or get one from Bikesmith) and grease the bearings. Do the same for the headset bearings and front hub bearings. Spray a liberal amount of WD40 into the rear hub after everything else is sorted (including the inner tubes and tires) and take it for a ride of about a mile. Then remove the WD40 and the nastiness that comes with it and install a proper lube for the hub. Automatic transmission fluid works pretty good. Make sure the rear hub bearings have the slightest amount of run-out; if there is no play in them you will ruin the hub. Lubricate the brake cables. Replace the brake pads. Shine the chrome... and ride it.

Originally Posted by Iron Horse

Thanks for the info on the 3 speed. I was going to tear it down and thoroughly clean it, but as I have never done a 3 speed before, your information is good to know. As to the teardown of the frame, I was a little ambiguous. I had everything removed from the frame save for the drive side bottom bracket cup. And as I have my breaker bar back, I will have that removed by the time I post this missive, thanks to Sir Sheldon and that nifty home-built removal device.

Originally Posted by CTC53

afternoon, does anyone here have information on Sun Cycles of Birmingham?
im trying to identify a possible bicycle form their range.

Originally Posted by BigChief

From what I've read about this hub, mostly at master Sheldon's site, there is some conjecture that these hubs may have a production rather than design flaw. In which case there may be good ones and bad ones. Although the idea of round pawls that cam to lock rather then sprung ratchet type pawls seems suspect to me. Interesting hub though. I hope it continues working well.

Originally Posted by gster

I've invited the seller to come to the bike show next weekend.

Originally Posted by gster

That bike could be on the showroom floor.
The bucket kick stand is a nice touch.

Originally Posted by PeterLYoung

Yes, I read that too, there is probably truth in both arguments, incorrect lubrication (critical for free pawl movement) and the decline in precision manufacturing in the UK in the post war years, so that crucial uniformity in component dimensions was not maintained for production units. I have to say to my engineering eye the unit looks very well made with high quality finishes, bearing surfaces showed little signs of wear, though some light tracking on the cones as one would expect on any bicycle of its age. Apparently it was a lottery as to whether you got a good unit on your new bike or otherwise. I must have one of the good ones as when I took it apart, there were signs of wear on the pawls but it seemed pretty uniform and I was very careful when dismantling to keep orientation and location of the pawls unchanged on re-assembly, a tricky thing to do when they can easily fall out when dismantling the hub. Fortunately I had read everything I could on the hub and was very careful. Ridden the bike quite a few times now and gear hub performance is still very good, not one missed engagement so far! I guess one has to bear in mind I am only cruising and I ride it very sympathetically, maybe not a typical rider.

Originally Posted by PeterLYoung

Thanks for your comment. If in doubt, use a bucket!!

Actually the bike came with a kick stand but I am not sure whether to refit it at present. There is nothing wrong with it but the clamp did slightly compress the frame and I do not want to further compress it, I might make up a pair of rubber/or similar mat'l pads to protect the frame, maybe!!

Originally Posted by clubman

I think I want it for the pump.

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-other-bike/a...ationFlag=true

Originally Posted by Dan Burkhart

Not sure where, but I thought I read somewhere that the show was cancelled. Good to know it's back on. I may wander down for a look.