Brake not coming back into original position
#1
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Brake not coming back into original position
Hey guys!
Please don't mind my lame and unprofessional bicycle language, I recently got mine and still learning basics and common naming. I got the bike from a friend of mine and the number one problem I have right now is back brake - it's not coming back into original position, ( if I'm not mistaken it's a V-form brake? correct me if wrong please ) the pad is always touching the wheel and because of that it's hard to ride and the brake is also getting worn out sooner.
I'm assuming I have to adjust the brake with bolts or do something with the cable? ( I know sounds really bad but please forgive lol )
I don't think it's a problem for a repair shop, so I want to use good old internet strategy! Cheers!
Please don't mind my lame and unprofessional bicycle language, I recently got mine and still learning basics and common naming. I got the bike from a friend of mine and the number one problem I have right now is back brake - it's not coming back into original position, ( if I'm not mistaken it's a V-form brake? correct me if wrong please ) the pad is always touching the wheel and because of that it's hard to ride and the brake is also getting worn out sooner.
I'm assuming I have to adjust the brake with bolts or do something with the cable? ( I know sounds really bad but please forgive lol )
I don't think it's a problem for a repair shop, so I want to use good old internet strategy! Cheers!
#2
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Are both pads touching, or just one side?
If both pads are rubbing, you need to release some cable tension, which can usually be done on the brake lever barrel adjuster (on the handlebar). If you don't have enough adjustment at the barrel adjuster, you will need to loosen the brake cable anchor bolt, slide the clamp slightly, and retighten the bolt.
If it's just one pad rubbing, you need to adjust the spring tension balance of the brake arms. On v-brakes there is usually a small screw on the side of the brake arm that adjusts the tension of the coil spring on that arm. Tightening the screw will increase the spring tension. Loosening it will release spring tension. You might need to tighten one side and loosen the other to create the correct balance to keep both pads clear of the rim.
It's also possible that you will need to do both of these things.
Another issue might be that the wheel is not properly set in the dropouts and is crooked. The wheel could also be damaged and out of true.
If both pads are rubbing, you need to release some cable tension, which can usually be done on the brake lever barrel adjuster (on the handlebar). If you don't have enough adjustment at the barrel adjuster, you will need to loosen the brake cable anchor bolt, slide the clamp slightly, and retighten the bolt.
If it's just one pad rubbing, you need to adjust the spring tension balance of the brake arms. On v-brakes there is usually a small screw on the side of the brake arm that adjusts the tension of the coil spring on that arm. Tightening the screw will increase the spring tension. Loosening it will release spring tension. You might need to tighten one side and loosen the other to create the correct balance to keep both pads clear of the rim.
It's also possible that you will need to do both of these things.
Another issue might be that the wheel is not properly set in the dropouts and is crooked. The wheel could also be damaged and out of true.
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#3
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Assuming it's only one side not returning, there are a few possibilities.
1- make sure the cable is neither pushing nor pulling on the arms at rest. This is common on rear brakes, and easiest to fix.
2- sometimes worn shoes develop an overhang under the rim and that can keep them trapped. Easily eliminated by looking for an extending edge on the shoes, so check before moving on to more likely causes
3- sometimes dirt causes friction at the pivots, so cross your fingers and spray WD-40 or similar there on both sides of the sticky arm. Work the brake and see if it improves.
4- if it's not the cable it might be an imbalance between the two springs. There are ways to balance these, most commonly via the small adjusting screws down by the pivots. If no screws there, you need to look up your brake for adjusting into.
Those are the basics, and/or you can search V-brake tutorials for specific details.
Try the above, check some tutorials, then come back if still stuck.
1- make sure the cable is neither pushing nor pulling on the arms at rest. This is common on rear brakes, and easiest to fix.
2- sometimes worn shoes develop an overhang under the rim and that can keep them trapped. Easily eliminated by looking for an extending edge on the shoes, so check before moving on to more likely causes
3- sometimes dirt causes friction at the pivots, so cross your fingers and spray WD-40 or similar there on both sides of the sticky arm. Work the brake and see if it improves.
4- if it's not the cable it might be an imbalance between the two springs. There are ways to balance these, most commonly via the small adjusting screws down by the pivots. If no screws there, you need to look up your brake for adjusting into.
Those are the basics, and/or you can search V-brake tutorials for specific details.
Try the above, check some tutorials, then come back if still stuck.
Last edited by FBinNY; 03-20-24 at 04:29 PM.
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#4
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Hey guys!
Please don't mind my lame and unprofessional bicycle language, I recently got mine and still learning basics and common naming. I got the bike from a friend of mine and the number one problem I have right now is back brake - it's not coming back into original position, ( if I'm not mistaken it's a V-form brake? correct me if wrong please ) the pad is always touching the wheel and because of that it's hard to ride and the brake is also getting worn out sooner.
I'm assuming I have to adjust the brake with bolts or do something with the cable? ( I know sounds really bad but please forgive lol )
I don't think it's a problem for a repair shop, so I want to use good old internet strategy! Cheers!
Please don't mind my lame and unprofessional bicycle language, I recently got mine and still learning basics and common naming. I got the bike from a friend of mine and the number one problem I have right now is back brake - it's not coming back into original position, ( if I'm not mistaken it's a V-form brake? correct me if wrong please ) the pad is always touching the wheel and because of that it's hard to ride and the brake is also getting worn out sooner.
I'm assuming I have to adjust the brake with bolts or do something with the cable? ( I know sounds really bad but please forgive lol )
I don't think it's a problem for a repair shop, so I want to use good old internet strategy! Cheers!
Responses #2 & #3 above assumes V-brake.
Last edited by KCT1986; 03-20-24 at 02:43 PM. Reason: Original post #4 was deleted
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If FBinNY's advice still doesn't work, and you have confirmed that this is a linear pull (V) brake, it might be because the plastic cover that often anchors the return spring is broken. This is easy to check. Disconnect the cable and press the caliper toward the rim with your hand. If it just flops around instead of springing back, your best plan is to replace the caliper.
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You need to confirm which type of brake system this is. Do a quick web search for brake types (V-brake, dual pivot caliper, single pivot caliper, disc brake).
Responses #2 & #3 above assumes V-brake.#4 is for dual pivot type. Some of the info included in each response is specific to that type.
Responses #2 & #3 above assumes V-brake.
You'll see an example of the spring balancing screws I had in mind here
Last edited by FBinNY; 03-23-24 at 12:36 AM.
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I'm surprised no one else pushed you to a park tool video on this subject, here it is, the adjusting to the spring tension is at about 11:30
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/...-brake-service
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/...-brake-service
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Last edited by JoeTBM; 03-23-24 at 02:29 AM.
#9
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I could be the cable itself isn't releasing. The cable may be either frayed or rusting inside the housing. Replace the cable and housing if that is the case. It may be tempting to just grease the old cable, but it never works for long as the rust just comes back, and grease will do nothing for a frayed cable.
As you can tell by the responses there is a whole array of things that can cause this. Make sure you know what the real problem is before you fix it.
As you can tell by the responses there is a whole array of things that can cause this. Make sure you know what the real problem is before you fix it.