BFisher

I'm glad I found this thread. It convinced me to give them a try as well. I, too, got bored with a trainer. Now, I know many out there use online spin classes, Zwift, etc., which is cool. I was not using any of that. But it was just the bike being locked in and immobile that turned me off. We have a storm coming that's bringing snow and ice, so I plan on getting a full 30 minutes on the rollers tomorrow. I don't want to begin the cycling season totally out of riding shape, so I'm going to try to get on them daily.

Desert Ryder

I tried my rollers with a Dawes Lightning and was able to ride..OK.
I sold my Dawes so I decided to try my Trek MTB on them.
The tires were kinda low. I started spinning and in short time caught myself before falling to the ground.
Going to give it another go after I air up the tires and move the front roller to the last mounting spot. I'm sure something better than knobby tires would roll better.

Reference pics only. The rollers are usually out back on our patio area.

Prowler 

Everything I’ve read recommended placing the front roller just ahead of the front wheel axle which is what I’ve done. It seems to work very well. You’ll also find that smooth tires are quieter. I don’t know if they track better as I’ve only used road bikes on mine. On a mtn bike consider max tire pressure or higher. Unlikely to hit a rock or tree root so a few extra psi won’t hurt. Maybe 65psi. Experiment.

GCBM

I couldn't seem to find the right thread for these but I'm hoping someone can redirect me or provide some info. I'm North of L.A. so that is my area of beginning search. I just reacquired a set of wooden rollers that I rode in the 80's and they need restoration on the wood rollers themselves. They have some splits and seem to have "shrunk" a bit as the bands at the ends need some shimming. My question is, anyone know of resources for proper restoration of these? I already have a source for the leather treadle strap. But I'd like to ride them again so I want to properly fill cracks and address the rollers surface in whatever fashion is best. Since I intend to ride them again I'm not sure if there is a specific type of fill to use for the rollers and whether leaving the wood bare or lacquer, polyurethane or the like is best.

Classtime 

GCBM I suggest you join Classic Rendezvous Google group and enquire there. I will bet that Ted Ernst recognizes those and would know what steps you should or should not take..

PromptCritical 

Those are seriously cool. I would ask the local, hardwood supply store (Rocklears if there is one near you) if they know any retired craftsmen that are into restoration of vintage wood furniture or tools.

GCBM

Thank you for the idea. These had thought to have been stolen about 40 years ago. Turned out they had been put in storage where owner never thought to look - or being a bike guy, couldn't get to because of all the other stuff he put in after. Just rediscovered this past weekend.

PromptCritical 

LOL, I've found many, many lost items in the same way.....

Prowler 

Since this thread has been dug up recently, I'll post an update. 8 years on and I still enjoy my rollers. I bring them down from the loft in mid January and take them back up at the end of March (today). As well as real cycling outdoors, I have 3 choices for winter cardio: rollers, stationary trainer and NordicTrac ski machine, which help stave off the degradation of cycling fitness from my peak in the fall. I enjoy all three. The rollers are a key part of the program.

A couple of weeks ago I was rolling along nicely, good tunes on the stereo, when phipfffff, the rollers quit working and I noticed the belt sliding across the floor in front of me. After only 30 sumpthin years the original belt broke and retired. Lousy luck, eh? I ordered a replacement from Kreitler/Mountain Racing Products and a week later I was back on the rivet. Great service and the new belt fit perfectly. Me n de rollers are good for another 30 years.


My setup. DIY wood mounting block (for each side) with holes for the middle feet to ensure the unit does not move. Left of the bike is the huge sliding door in my shop. I block that in the position shown and it and the door jam frame me safely. Good tunes. stare at a mark on the opposite wall, look out the windows a bit and grind along. I really do think it smooths out my pedaling and improves balance. I'll keep em.

As part of the rights of spring (converting the tractor from snow blowing to mowing. pulling up the snow stakes from along the driveway, etc) I also reconfigured the Cannondale back to summer mode. I'll ride that under sunny skies tomorrow.

Classtime 

Prowler The un-saddle bag stanchions? And I’d like more info about the mounting block. It appears non symmetrical and that it doesn’t clear the pedals if you venture off center.

Prowler 

un-saddle bag rack: as with many of my “inventions”, the rack was banged together out of stuff that was lying around. Many years ago my wife went to a local millwork shop and got a load of “rippings” - those thin strips of wood that are sawn off the edges of boards as they are sized down to desired width for cabinet work. I’ve made all sorts of things from that stock pile. These were some of that, a hardwood. Maple would do nicely. These have a red hue, maybe red oak. Behind the bag is a block of sitka spruce and a wee rack made with electric fence wire. The two black plastic fittings at the DOs were salvaged from a patio umbrella. The top of the rack is just lashed to the underside of the saddle. Being so steep, the saddle tie points need only keep the rack vertical, not weight bearing. I have many piles of “material too small to throw away”.


The mounting block is asymmetrical. Right side butts up against the door jam and left side against the sliding door, specifically for my shop. The blocks are an inch or so below the pedals which clear them nicely. Solid and steady when I use them and well below the pedals when I’m rolling. I suppose the half clip on the right pedal could hit the block if I pull my foot off the pedal while rolling but I’ve never tried that. I always start with my right foot on the pedal and stop that way too, pulling my left foot out first. Same all year with all bikes so a good habit.

The whole setup is very solid and stable so I only need worry about me staying on the cylinders.