Cyclocross and Gravelbiking (Recreational) This has to be the most physically intense sport ever invented. It's high speed bicycle racing on a short off road course or riding the off pavement rides on gravel like :The Dirty Kanza". We also have a dedicated Racing forum for the Cyclocross Hard Core Racers.

Why do people want 1x???

Old 05-02-18, 02:40 AM
  #101  
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I run it because when I got the bike I had been been running single speed for 15 years so getting used to shifting and riding took a little bit for me it helped give me a one less thing to think about
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Old 05-02-18, 09:46 PM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
...

I have chosen differently I like IGH, I skipped over the 'i got more speeds on my cassette than you do' game..




...
Yeah, you traded it for 'i've got an overweight, extravagantly expensive IGH with more range that i or 99% of bike users will ever need, and now i have to trumpet my expensive toy at every turn." And you think you came out ahead? Rohloff has 14 gears, and you say you eschewed the more-gears rat race? who you trying to kid, bob?

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Old 05-03-18, 08:26 AM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
I had a range that worked for my commute, but it required a few cogs that I hardly ever used at the low end, and a bit of spinning at the high end. The high end bothered me most, because even though my top speed didn't matter at all (even to me) I just didn't like the feeling of approaching the limit where I couldn't go much faster even if I wanted to.
Sounds like you just needed a bigger chainring.
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Old 05-03-18, 10:34 AM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
Advertized trends create demand... SRAM is pushing 1 by stuff hard, closed down their IGH production..

I have chosen differently I like IGH, I skipped over the 'i got more speeds on my cassette than you do' game..
I find it a bit inconsistent to claim to buck the "1x with more gears in the back" trend and then spend $1300 on a 14 speed rear hub so you can run 1x14.

But cope with it in my shop jobs.. those 10-42t cassettes are only seeming a good deal until you wear 1 out and have to open your wallet replace it...

in a mid drive electric bike you only have 1 chainring. 1 cog on IGH vs a big expensive cassette, with vulnreable ti bending RD .. you pick..
Say what? you can get a SRAM 10-42t 11 speed cassette for $100. A Rival 1 RD can be had for $100.
For the price of a Rohloff, you can burn through 8 cassettes and trash 4 rear deraileurs and still come out ahead.

If you are looking at flat bars and go with mtb components, it is even cheaper.

I see the parabolic arc of the cogs diameter increases, are trying to widen gear ratio gaps as they get lower..
Yes and No. Yes, the cog sizes do increase exponentially, but the % difference in the ratios do not.

The table below shows the tooth counts of a 10-42 cassette. The column next to it shows the % increase in gearing ratio from the next cog size down.

11
13---18.2%
15---15.4%
17---13.3%
19---11.8%
22---15.8%
25---13.6%
28---12.0%
32---14.3%
36---12.5%
42---16.7%

an IGH like Rohloff each of the ratios are a % of the next one , so are getting wider by 13.6% going up, narrower going down..
The Rohloff does do a better job of keeping the ratios more consistently spaced. And if Gaps over 13-14% bother you, then the 10-42 does have three jumps you won't like, but in practice, I think the one in the middle is the only one I would care about. 42 is a bailout gear, and at the top end I seldom care about cadence, I am just topping off my speed on a DH.

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Old 05-03-18, 11:31 AM
  #105  
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I got bargains.. Abu, etc, ... did not pay full retail price,
my 2nd hand hubs worked out fine....

I got a whole Koga WTR touring bike with a Rohloff hub shipped to my door,
from NC for $2k..
then fell into a Disc brake Pocket Llama, that someone refused at factory
due to they did not like the color .
It's been my rain bike..

3rd IGH 1 by 9 (Sram i 9) also used, Bike Friday Season Tikit..




...

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Old 05-03-18, 12:40 PM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
I got bargains Abu, etc, did not pay full retail price, my 2nd hand hubs worked out fine....
...
those 10-42t cassettes are only seeming a good deal until you wear 1 out and have to open your wallet replace it...
yeah Only 'he' can get bargains, the rest of you have to open your wallet. lol
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Old 05-03-18, 02:32 PM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
I got bargains Abu, etc, did not pay full retail price, my 2nd hand hubs worked out fine....
...
You can get bargains off of retail price for cassettes and rear deraileurs as well.
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Old 05-03-18, 05:37 PM
  #108  
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All of this has been pointed out to bob time and time again, but he persists in the Rohloff mantra. To be honest, though, the most objectionable part is the psychology of Rohloff, a psychology of odd rationalizations. And don't get him started on Bike Friday. Same type of spiel.

Originally Posted by Kapusta View Post

I find it a bit inconsistent to claim to buck the "1x with more gears in the back" trend and then spend $1300 on a 14 speed rear hub so you can run 1x14.


Say what? you can get a SRAM 10-42t 11 speed cassette for $100. A Rival 1 RD can be had for $100.
For the price of a Rohloff, you can burn through 8 cassettes and trash 4 rear deraileurs and still come out ahead.

If you are looking at flat bars and go with mtb components, it is even cheaper.


Yes and No. Yes, the cog sizes do increase exponentially, but the % difference in the ratios do not.

The table below shows the tooth counts of a 10-42 cassette. The column next to it shows the % increase in gearing ratio from the next cog size down.

11
13---18.2%
15---15.4%
17---13.3%
19---11.8%
22---15.8%
25---13.6%
28---12.0%
32---14.3%
36---12.5%
42---16.7%


The Rohloff does do a better job of keeping the ratios more consistently spaced. And if Gaps over 13-14% bother you, then the 10-42 does have three jumps you won't like, but in practice, I think the one in the middle is the only one I would care about. 42 is a bailout gear, and at the top end I seldom care about cadence, I am just topping off my speed on a DH.
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Old 05-03-18, 06:26 PM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by Kapusta View Post

You can get bargains off of retail price for cassettes and rear deraileurs as well.
co-ops are your friends
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Old 05-04-18, 06:14 PM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by Metieval View Post
I'd liken a a bail out gear (2x) to a baby pacifier. Not exactly the real thing, but they do stop the crying.
medieval, i just love your perspective on things. You have write a way with words...
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Old 05-04-18, 06:53 PM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by chas58 View Post
medieval, i just love your perspective on things. You have write a way with words...
meh I speak my mind.... 999 out of 1000 I am hated for it. I am passed the point of caring anymore. I don't need approval, I don't need acceptance.
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Old 05-05-18, 09:11 AM
  #112  
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Dont you worry, In five years they will sell us triple and 26" like an upgrade
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Old 05-05-18, 06:10 PM
  #113  
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1x offers a lot more flexibility in gearing than a double, unless you go with mountain cranks for climbing gears. Triples are a bit more heavy and have a lot of redundant gears (and if you want brifters, well - I guess you can still buy 4700 Tiagra in a 3x. If you can find it).

I like it for aesthetic reasons. Most of the arguments against it are reasonably aesthetic, too. You don't save much weight, you don't save many dollars, and you have similar range.

If you happen to live in one ring a lot, say for a commuter bike, then you can get a more ideal chainline with a 1x bike than with a 2x bike. I'm sure someone can figure out the cost of longer chain life vs cog wear in a 1x rear cassette. I'd rather ride my bike.
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Old 05-06-18, 09:53 PM
  #114  
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There's a flip side to gear gaps: For the toughest sections of my rides I'm liking the gaps. Compared to my 2X gravel bike I don't need to shift my new 1X nearly as much on the steep highly variable grade off-road climbs around here.
I bought the bike with the plan of converting 1X to 2X but instead have decided 1X works for me. OP asked why people want 1X? Obviously many don't but I do.
(not on my road bike though)
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Old 05-06-18, 10:52 PM
  #115  
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why 1x, why 2x.

is liken to asking why drop bar, why flat bar, why 25c, why 40c? why 650? why pedal when gas is cheap? why use a hammer when any heavy object with a flat spot can be used as a hammer. why shears when we have knives? why knives when we have shears?
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Old 09-13-18, 07:29 PM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by Banzai View Post
SRAM front shifting: *scrape scrape rattle rattle clunk* - shift complete.

Shimano front shifting: *ssssnikt* - shift complete.
Shimano front shifting: *ssssnikt* - shift complete.

1x front shifting....... **
(Did you hear that?)

Anyways - as others have said, there is a place for both and each rider will prefer what they are most comfortable with. Same reason some brands of shoes fit one person great and another person with the same sized foor not so well.

I like the double, especially on the road and where I live. I go from great flats with a slight decline where I can crush the 50x12 and hills 5 miles down the road where 34 x 28 is hardly enough low end to keep me spinning at 70 rpm.

But I like the tight gearing on the road. Not so much on the gravel but where I ride its nice to have the 50 to get me back home quick on the tarmac.

Where I lived before, I never used my small gear. In a 20 mile ride the elevation was maybe 150' on the biggest hill in town.

My wife rides with me and never, ever comes off her 34. Im going to upgrade her to a 38 or 40 1x with an 11x32 or 34 on the rear. I think she will be happy with that.

The thing I really dont understand is a 46x36. That doesnt make sense at all. Maybe a 46x34 or 46x32 or 48x34 but 46x36 makes me scratch my head. I think its marketing to get you to buy another chainring.

-Sean
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Old 09-13-18, 07:42 PM
  #117  
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Hey now leave 46/36 out of this.

It's great because the front shifts are excellent since the jump is small. Big ring is good enough to handle flats and rolling hills when fit and having a good day. Small ring is fine for tired days and very steep hills. Double clutching is fast, safe and intuitive which is the real meat and potatoes and why it's the standard cx chainring combo.
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Old 09-13-18, 07:46 PM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by Wilmingtech View Post
Shimano front shifting: *ssssnikt* - shift complete.

1x front shifting....... **
(Did you hear that?)

Anyways - as others have said, there is a place for both and each rider will prefer what they are most comfortable with. Same reason some brands of shoes fit one person great and another person with the same sized foor not so well.

I like the double, especially on the road and where I live. I go from great flats with a slight decline where I can crush the 50x12 and hills 5 miles down the road where 34 x 28 is hardly enough low end to keep me spinning at 70 rpm.

But I like the tight gearing on the road. Not so much on the gravel but where I ride its nice to have the 50 to get me back home quick on the tarmac.

Where I lived before, I never used my small gear. In a 20 mile ride the elevation was maybe 150' on the biggest hill in town.

My wife rides with me and never, ever comes off her 34. Im going to upgrade her to a 38 or 40 1x with an 11x32 or 34 on the rear. I think she will be happy with that.

The thing I really dont understand is a 46x36. That doesnt make sense at all. Maybe a 46x34 or 46x32 or 48x34 but 46x36 makes me scratch my head. I think its marketing to get you to buy another chainring.

-Sean
Not possible due to BCD limitations of 110mm BCD.


46/36 makes sense...if you ride cross. Remember, you're not pedalling all the time, and are frequently dismounting for steep hill climbs as it is faster than pedaling anyway in many cases.
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Old 09-13-18, 08:36 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by Marcus_Ti View Post
Not possible due to BCD limitations of 110mm BCD.


46/36 makes sense...if you ride cross. Remember, you're not pedalling all the time, and are frequently dismounting for steep hill climbs as it is faster than pedaling anyway in many cases.
5 bolt 110 BCD -Wolftooth 34t 5 bolt chainring

A 1x42 10/42 should cover all you need and a 46/36 at that point would just be for closer gearing which may be a slight advantage in cross but most would prefer a 1x? No?

I dont race nor have ever ridden a cross specific course so bear with me as I try to comprehend...
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Old 09-13-18, 09:24 PM
  #120  
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1(42/40/38T depending on your strength and cadence preferences)x 11-32 is usually enough to cover most, possibly as big as 11-36. I've never needed anything lower that wasn't faster running, and in cross you do whats faster
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Old 09-13-18, 09:44 PM
  #121  
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I love 46/36 for gravel and regular road riding too.

But then again I hated 50/34 and 52/39 but loved 52/42. Maybe I'm just a deci-phile.
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Old 09-14-18, 09:51 AM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by Spoonrobot View Post
I love 46/36 for gravel and regular road riding too.

But then again I hated 50/34 and 52/39 but loved 52/42. Maybe I'm just a deci-phile.
in terms of percentage jumps 46/36 is closer to 52/39 than 52/42
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Old 09-14-18, 10:08 AM
  #123  
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The heart wants what it wants, logic be damned.
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Old 09-14-18, 11:50 AM
  #124  
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My response to the OP, would be, 'what's a hill?' I had triple on my commuter, and went literally multiple years without leaving the middle 36 tooth ring. Flat ground removes any real necessity for multiple rings. When my 36tooth ring wore out, I ripped all 3 off, bought a narrow wide 40tooth chainring, slapped that on, and tore the front deraillieur off. Couldn't be happier.

I've got 46/36 on my cross bike. Which is perfect, as I use the 36 for cross, 46 on the road. But really a 40 tooth single on that would be fine, but I might want to deviate slightly from the 11-28 cassette in back. Not much though.
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Old 09-14-18, 12:07 PM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by Wilmingtech View Post
The thing I really dont understand is a 46x36. That doesnt make sense at all. Maybe a 46x34 or 46x32 or 48x34 but 46x36 makes me scratch my head. I think its marketing to get you to buy another chainring.

-Sean
my gravel is 46/34 mated to an 11-36 cassette.
the 34t Ultegra ring was $13 on ebay.
It's a cx50 crank and even with the ring the total was $80 for it. Just mention this since it didn't seem expensive to buy a new ring.
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