Cone pitting
03-20-24, 10:23 AM
#26
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Toledo Ohio
Posts: 1,496
Bikes: 1964 Huffy Sportsman, 1972 Fuji Newest, 1973 Schwinn Super Sport (3), 1982 Trek 412, 1983 Trek 700, 1989 Miyata 1000LT, 1991 Bianchi Boardwalk, plus others
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 583 Post(s)
Liked 699 Times
in
394 Posts
Yep, I meant to say cups. I like your explanation too on the lesser distance of the bearing track. Interestingly, I’ve seldom had a bad cup, so I should be thankful for that at least.
03-20-24, 01:50 PM
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bastrop Texas
Posts: 4,481
Bikes: Univega, Peu P6, Peu PR-10, Ted Williams, Peu UO-8, Peu UO-18 Mixte, Peu Dolomites
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 967 Post(s)
Liked 1,630 Times
in
1,046 Posts
Another question is how deep are the pits? Or are they even pits? Often I have seen super shallow changes in old Peugeot/Simplex Cones that were simply a change in color and not pits at all. A simple cleaning with 440 sand paper and they polished out just fine.
I have always been impressed at how well Cones and Cups hold out. After all, they are at the apex/cone of the entire bicycle including the fat yahoo on top of it and everything else... HA
OH... And another thing... I always replace the bearings on a old bike rebuild, but do I really have to? Probably not...
I have always been impressed at how well Cones and Cups hold out. After all, they are at the apex/cone of the entire bicycle including the fat yahoo on top of it and everything else... HA
OH... And another thing... I always replace the bearings on a old bike rebuild, but do I really have to? Probably not...
__________________
No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)
No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)Last edited by zandoval; 03-20-24 at 01:54 PM.
03-20-24, 02:36 PM
#29
Really Old Senior Member
Another question is how deep are the pits? Or are they even pits? Often I have seen super shallow changes in old Peugeot/Simplex Cones that were simply a change in color and not pits at all. A simple cleaning with 440 sand paper and they polished out just fine.
I have always been impressed at how well Cones and Cups hold out. After all, they are at the apex/cone of the entire bicycle including the fat yahoo on top of it and everything else... HA
OH... And another thing... I always replace the bearings on a old bike rebuild, but do I really have to? Probably not...
I have always been impressed at how well Cones and Cups hold out. After all, they are at the apex/cone of the entire bicycle including the fat yahoo on top of it and everything else... HA
OH... And another thing... I always replace the bearings on a old bike rebuild, but do I really have to? Probably not...
When you have saved enough old ones, do a mass cleaning and you have slingshot ammo.
Likes For Bill Kapaun:
03-20-24, 08:15 PM
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 2,551
Bikes: Airborne "Carpe Diem", Motobecane "Mirage", Trek 6000, Strida 2, Dahon "Helios XL", Dahon "Mu XL", Tern "Verge S11i"
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 980 Post(s)
Liked 582 Times
in
399 Posts
This is the one you'll more often see in bike shops, I think.
Likes For sweeks:
03-21-24, 01:42 PM
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 1,235
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 500 Post(s)
Liked 435 Times
in
334 Posts
I've got one of those too, but it just clamps the axle. The Stein tool allows the axle to be compressed (shortened) by the quick release *while* the bearings are being adjusted. There's no quesswork about how much the bearing pre-load changes when the wheel is subsequently installed on the bike.
03-22-24, 05:16 AM
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 2,551
Bikes: Airborne "Carpe Diem", Motobecane "Mirage", Trek 6000, Strida 2, Dahon "Helios XL", Dahon "Mu XL", Tern "Verge S11i"
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 980 Post(s)
Liked 582 Times
in
399 Posts
Good point... you'd be able to rotate the axle and feel for interferences better if the wheel wasn't clamped in a vise. I guess the Stein tool could be released from the vise as well.
03-24-24, 12:38 AM
#33
Senior Member
Good point. IMO, it's absolutely critical to be able to rotate the axle in fingers for proper preload adjustment, rotating the wheel has too much leverage, you won't feel things.
Likes For Duragrouch:
