Cool tips, tricks and secrets, let's hear it!....
10-07-11, 12:57 PM
#78
Senior Member
Well, they're easy to find in the dumpsters around here, especially with short steer tubes which work very well. Plus the crown (usually cast AL) makes a convenient handle. Try one, they work like a charm.
10-07-11, 08:28 PM
#80
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When patching tubes, after the patch has been glued in place but before the glue dries, I take my fingernail and press in lines around the edge of the patch so you end up with a circular score line along the orange border. It helps to ensure an airtight seal. I hate reinstalling a patched tube only to find that there is still a leak. Since I started doing this, I've never had a faulty patch job.
10-07-11, 10:40 PM
#81
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10-07-11, 11:21 PM
#82
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It gets tacky before it dries completely. If you wait for all the glue to dry completely, the patch falls off.
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'72 Cilo Pacer • '72 Peugeot PX10 • '73 Speedwell Ti • '74 Nishiki Competition • '74 Peugeot UE-8 • '86 Look Equipe 753 • '86 Look KG86 • '89 Parkpre Team Road • '90 Parkpre Team MTB • '90 Merlin Ti
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10-08-11, 07:15 AM
#83
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I guess there are stages of wet, then tacky, then completely dry. But how long would it take to reach "completely dry"? I patched a tube yesterday using a Rema patch kit and the instructions said to wait five minutes. I don't think I have ever waited that long.
10-08-11, 08:04 AM
#84
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Rotate your hub so the oil cap is in the 12:00 position when you park your English 3-speed. 
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10-08-11, 08:05 AM
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When installing brake shoes, use tongue-and-groove pliers to keep them in alignment with the rim as you tighten the nut.
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Last edited by auchencrow; 10-08-11 at 08:09 AM.
10-08-11, 04:13 PM
#86
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I use a Crescent wrench to hold them in place; I find it answers admirably.
The best trick I've ever found, and this is universal for any task, for working on anything-- is to think. Take your time. Figure it out. Use your head.
The best trick I've ever found, and this is universal for any task, for working on anything-- is to think. Take your time. Figure it out. Use your head.
10-08-11, 05:49 PM
#87
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If you keep a spare tube on hand when you ride, put a core remover valve cap on your bike:
When you get a flat, unscrewing the core will make it a lot easier to get all the air out, letting you fold the tube flat.
When you get a flat, unscrewing the core will make it a lot easier to get all the air out, letting you fold the tube flat.
10-09-11, 07:26 AM
#88
Senior Member
Liquid automatic dishwasher soap for cleaning chains and freewheels. Dishwasher soap has corrosion inhibitors, bare metal can soak for days without rusting.
Use a hair blow dryer to dry parts after cleaning.
Egg crate or foam mattress pads make great packing material for shipping. I pick them up at yard sales for $1 or less.
Nitrile gloves from Home Depot are the best I've come across.
Use a hair blow dryer to dry parts after cleaning.
Egg crate or foam mattress pads make great packing material for shipping. I pick them up at yard sales for $1 or less.
Nitrile gloves from Home Depot are the best I've come across.
Last edited by brian3069; 10-09-11 at 07:58 AM.
10-09-11, 07:18 PM
#89
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And Elmer's rubber cement, from the stationery aisle of Walgreens, works. It's cheaper than the patch kit glue.
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Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
10-09-11, 08:02 PM
#90
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Stick a cork in all of your open-ended seat posts.
It spares the local critters from meeting a terrible fate in your bottom bracket. They are available at Lowes.
(The corks I mean.)
It spares the local critters from meeting a terrible fate in your bottom bracket. They are available at Lowes.
(The corks I mean.)
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10-09-11, 09:59 PM
#91
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a dot of loctite on threads goes a long way on a touring bike. don't overuse it, it's a bike, not an aircraft. Not for every single bolt, but chainring bolts and rack bolts at least, I'm sure someone will disagree.
Add a padded aluminum finger splint to the med kit. Broken / jammed fingers suck, but shouldn't cause a bail out on centuries / multi day trips.
+1 on soldering cable ends, be sure to use a good flux and no flame, soldering iron should be fine. Granted I use some military grade stuff. There is an old thread on this.
Mark pinholes in tubes with compass points / crosshair of white chalk. Easy to lose the exact spot after applying the cement.
Lubricating quick releases helps me a lot. Might feel like a seatpost is tight when half the effort was against friction.
Add a padded aluminum finger splint to the med kit. Broken / jammed fingers suck, but shouldn't cause a bail out on centuries / multi day trips.
+1 on soldering cable ends, be sure to use a good flux and no flame, soldering iron should be fine. Granted I use some military grade stuff. There is an old thread on this.
Mark pinholes in tubes with compass points / crosshair of white chalk. Easy to lose the exact spot after applying the cement.
Lubricating quick releases helps me a lot. Might feel like a seatpost is tight when half the effort was against friction.
10-10-11, 10:01 PM
#92
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I posted this before in a tool thread, but here's a better pic of it in action...
Carpentry bar clamp from Harbor Freight, Mini version for $0.99.
It's small and handy for brakes. And flipping the end will reverse it and can be used to stretch straddle cables.
The other is a spring clamp, also cheap at HF. The size of the pads are great for applying pressure to patches when I'm fixing tubes at home.
Assures a good seal.
Carpentry bar clamp from Harbor Freight, Mini version for $0.99.
It's small and handy for brakes. And flipping the end will reverse it and can be used to stretch straddle cables.
The other is a spring clamp, also cheap at HF. The size of the pads are great for applying pressure to patches when I'm fixing tubes at home.
Assures a good seal.
10-11-11, 06:19 AM
#94
Bicycle Repairman
The local fairgrounds takes all our old innertubes for their trashcans. Stretch them around the top and they hold the bag in place so it doesn't fall in the can.
10-11-11, 09:37 AM
#96
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A business card folded in half is perfect for spacing your brake pads' toe in.
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10-11-11, 10:43 AM
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10-11-11, 04:50 PM
#98
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I use brake parts cleaner to degreese metal parts it dries quickly with no residue espically bearings and races.
If I reuse an old brake or shifter cable with a frayed end. I will cut the houseing as much as I cut the cable (assuming its not too short to begin with and seperate them before cutting each. Use the cut piece of cable to measure the housing cut) so two inches of cable and two inches of houseing and its usually not too big of a deal. I also will take steel wool and run the cable through it then a little grease and reinstall and the cables are as good as new. Even pretty badly rusted cables can be brought back to almost new with the steel wool and grease treatment. I clamp the end of the cable in a vice and streach it out tight and hit it with the wool.
Take an old tire tube from a smaller wheel (26 inch for a 700c etc) get all the air out to flatten it then cut both sides off keeping it round and you will have two rubber rim strips.
I use blue magic aluminum polish from an auto parts store, it works wonders.
If you have a rear derailer or any aluminum part that is scuffed from the bike falling over etc. you can take a fine file or emory cloth sand paper and file or sand the scratches out, come back with 0000 steel wool then use the blue magic polish and you will be amazed and how knarly of a scrach or scratches you can remove.
0000 steel wool goes a long way on chrome and aluminum for cleaning.
A dollar bill in your bike bag will get you something to drink or can be put inside of a blown out side wall tire to get you home. cover the split and install a new tube then air up gently and limp home.
If I reuse an old brake or shifter cable with a frayed end. I will cut the houseing as much as I cut the cable (assuming its not too short to begin with and seperate them before cutting each. Use the cut piece of cable to measure the housing cut) so two inches of cable and two inches of houseing and its usually not too big of a deal. I also will take steel wool and run the cable through it then a little grease and reinstall and the cables are as good as new. Even pretty badly rusted cables can be brought back to almost new with the steel wool and grease treatment. I clamp the end of the cable in a vice and streach it out tight and hit it with the wool.
Take an old tire tube from a smaller wheel (26 inch for a 700c etc) get all the air out to flatten it then cut both sides off keeping it round and you will have two rubber rim strips.
I use blue magic aluminum polish from an auto parts store, it works wonders.
If you have a rear derailer or any aluminum part that is scuffed from the bike falling over etc. you can take a fine file or emory cloth sand paper and file or sand the scratches out, come back with 0000 steel wool then use the blue magic polish and you will be amazed and how knarly of a scrach or scratches you can remove.
0000 steel wool goes a long way on chrome and aluminum for cleaning.
A dollar bill in your bike bag will get you something to drink or can be put inside of a blown out side wall tire to get you home. cover the split and install a new tube then air up gently and limp home.
Last edited by jstar1000; 10-11-11 at 04:56 PM.
10-11-11, 05:04 PM
#99
numbtoes
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10-11-11, 05:15 PM
#100
numbtoes
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When you patch a tube let it set overnight and reinstall in the morning it will not leak guarenteed (assuming you did it properly)
To store wheels out of the way I screwed two eye bolts in studs on both sides of my garage about 4 inches below the ceiling and stretched a metal cable across it and used hooks about every 6 or 8 ft in the ceiling studs to support the cable, an adjustable eye bolt on one end tightens it up. I then bought a bag of 50 aluminum fence ties to form J hooks and hang the rims and wheels from the cable up out of the way. I have a three car garage and have had up to 50 wheels hanging from it with no problems.
To store wheels out of the way I screwed two eye bolts in studs on both sides of my garage about 4 inches below the ceiling and stretched a metal cable across it and used hooks about every 6 or 8 ft in the ceiling studs to support the cable, an adjustable eye bolt on one end tightens it up. I then bought a bag of 50 aluminum fence ties to form J hooks and hang the rims and wheels from the cable up out of the way. I have a three car garage and have had up to 50 wheels hanging from it with no problems.