dddd

Take your time. Building an MTB drop bar conversion is perhaps more for those who don't already have a cyclocross bike!

And which brings me to ask if we might want to have a "hybrid drop bar conversion" thread both for those who might want to show off their 700c variants and for those who might be inspired to build one.

And though Performance Bike never hinted at any cyclocross intentions when they designed and sold these Parabola "Road Hybrid" (as printed on a small sticker on the stem) bikes in the very early '90's, they did work especially well off road. And I even used mine as a cyclocross racing bike when course conditions threatened the refined existence of the antique bike I normally use for CX racing.

Albeit rather heavy, and with odd, long-reaching d-p sidepulls (but using the same sort of geometry and seamed Cr-Mo "Infinity" tubing as a mid-range MTB), here is the "Parabola" model. Note especially that the relatively large frame size is allowing a shorter 8.5cm stem to give this rider enough forward reach without messing up the out-of-saddle steering feel (as typically occurs when using a longer stem with drop bars on frames with a relaxed headtube angle):

badger_biker 

Thanks for the comments simmonsgc! I went with stainless mainly because I already had the Brooks mudflap and felt it would be best to have a stronger surface to mount it on than aluminum or plastic. Plus VO currently has them on sale for 20% off. I have SKS on other bikes and like them.

badger_biker 

Thanks and thank you for letting me know you had the frame and being willing to ship it to me! I'm not sure when I will be driving back down to Austin but when I do I will bring some New Glarus beer with me and try to coordinate a stop in Lawrence to get it to you :-)

cs1

I really like those bikes. Your girlfriends moustache bars give it that XO-1 look.

cs1

@dddd there is actually a thread on another forum on "Performance Hybrids." There seems to be more folks making drop MTBs than drop bar hybrids. Especially when can buy a cross bike cheaper than you convert a hybrid. I am taking into account the initial cost of the hybrid.

Bicycle Addict

Early Performance type bikes (not necessarily the Manufacturer Performance) should be able to be got for the same price as early MTBs in the like of the Trek Multitrack, Giant Innova, etc. I have built 2 and they rode well, I think the main reason for the extent of this thread is that the 26 inch wheel is a little more robust for do anything type riding? I can not wait to get my Yak on the previous page finished.

Pompiere

I have the same bike. I bought it earlier this year at a garage sale. I have been following this thread for a while, and even made an attempt to convert my Schwinn Sierra to drop bars, but I haven't been able to get it to feel right. I put a lot of miles on the Parabola over the summer and got to thinking that maybe I should just put gravel tires on it and call it good. It already has all the stuff that make a good conversion: bar end shifters, rack and fender mounts, and a stout steel frame with lots of clearance. The brakes aren't cantilevers, but they have lots of clearance and they work well. I have another hybrid that I can borrow the wheels from to test the concept without spending any money.

mstateglfr 

This is what I did with an early 90s univega hybrid- riser stem, bar end shifters, origin8 Gary os bars, and some aero levers turned it into a blast on the gravel level b roads.

wrk101

Yes, there are some 700c hybrid conversions out there.

1992 Schwinn Cross cut, drop bar hybrid, before and after. Budget build to meet a price target. Ended up changing it later to North Roads at the request of buyer:

WalksOn2Wheels

I was originally looking for a hybrid, but wasn't finding much at all that fit my criteria. Mostly because I had the perfect tires and spokes to go with my dyno hub if I bought the same rim that got destroyed in my accident.

I think I hit a small wall on my build. It's looking like I will probably get it built up as is, but the wheels both need a full rebuild, so it will only be capable of some light test miles. I need to fab up a spacer at work so I can use my 1 1/8 threadless cable stop on the comparatively spindly 22mm stem, and then I'll probably do the final rolling mock-up.

dddd

These conversions can require some testing and can create a fit dilemma if the forward reach of the stem+bars puts the hoods too far forward to prevent the sort of steering heave that is common on slack-angled frames that are set up for an aggressive, forward-leaning fit (i.e. road bike fit).
So it's best to initially convert an already-assembled bike for purely test purposes, perhaps connecting just one brake and shifter and strapping the remaining original controls to the bars or frame, safely out of the way.
This way, there is little commitment to a project that might not work out if the rider's preferred fit/grip position puts the riders hands too far forward of the steering axis to steer effortlessly when riding while up off of the saddle.
A wider road bar helps here, by widening the "triangle" formed by the points at the steering axis and the rider's hands, since one doesn't want to have to control steering-heave forces by using wrist-twisting torque, but rather by a shoulder-width (or greater) grip spacing (as with the bike's original flat bars, hint hint).

BTW, the old Huffy and Schwinn 3-speed and "road" bikes like the Varsinentals have the very same issue in requiring progressively-wider handlebars to control out-of-saddle steering using even modestly-longer handlebar stems than the 6-7cm stems that they came with, due to their ~70-degree headtube angles, so starting with the largest possible frame size is nearly a must.

Bicycle Addict mentioned the much-stronger 26" wheels vs. 700c wheels, and this is true.
Many lower-priced hybrids will have single-walled rims that may require quite-even tensioning to provide decent off-road durability, but luckily those Performance Parabola road hybrids came with (albeit light and narrow) double-walled rims that have worked well for me (I did equi-tension them from the get-go).

This green bike can be thought of as a "road-bar conversion", since the rider cockpit was moved forward over the slack-angled frame for a normal road bike style fit.
Result was that the combination of a 10cm stem and not-so-wide handlebar produced steering heave when honking out of the saddle (uphill or sprinting), such that my wrists see a lot of unwanted twisting stress in hard riding.
I could have prevented this by using a larger frame, one that had virtually no stand-over height, but I went with what came my way and learned an important lesson about frame angles, fit and steering. I had to develop a different "attack" style to sort of even out the stresses in my body in order to endure longer, harder rides, so at least it can and does get ridden, if only occasionally.
Keep in mind here that Schwinn designed these frame firstly for use with "upright touring" type handlebars, and later added drop bars with puny 2-1/2" (6.4cm) steel stems!
The silver bike below it is a next-size-larger frame that fits this 5'9" rider much better, and with only an 8.5cm stem it steers much easier (while still using the stock handlebar).

tricky 

@badger_biker My vintage mtb is also building up heavier than I like it, but I think that is a product of us coming from lighter vintage roadies. I am starting to realize that we are building expedition-grade bikes here. Built with the proper components, these could take you all over the world.

badger_biker 

@tricky - I agree these are a different breed. I have 2 solid road touring bikes with plastic fenders that are only 2-3 lbs lighter than my mountain bike but I have more trust and comfort with my Pro-ATB in rough conditions. In the touring scheme of things the 2 plus lbs isn't much of a penalty for the extra piece of mind.

Erzulis Boat 

Late to the party here, but can someone cliff notes the whole steering geometry thing with these frames and drop bars?

dddd

In summary, bikes like Schwinn Varsity/Continental, Huffy and all mountain bikes have very slack headtube angles, which requires progressively wider handlebars to control the steering while riding off of the saddle as the rider's hands move very far in front of the steering axis.

Road bars (at the hoods) are much narrower than flat bars and put the rider's hands several additional inches forward of the steering axis, so can only be used with rather short stems, as was typically fitted to the Varsity "road" bikes.

A wider handlebar offers the option of using a slightly longer stem extension without the dreaded steering-heave being problematic when the rider is leaned forward and pedaling, off of the saddle.

So, with the option of using a longer stem extension with road/drop handlebars being problematic, one needs to select a larger mountainbike frame (with long enough toptube) when converting it for use with road bars.
And the seat tube angle also needs to be considered in terms of it's effect on how far rearward from the bottom bracket that the aft end of the top tube is located (which effectively shortens the toptube's forward reach to the headtube).
So both the seat tube angle and head tube angle need to be steep enough for any given toptube length to be sufficient to get the rider fitted using an acceptable (for neutral steering) stem extension length.

What would Clif say? (and now I'm wondering if this will soon be scooped up and published by some New York-headquartered bike rag, LOL, publish THAT).

Erzulis Boat 

Thanks- Will have to think about this one and understand it.

Bikedued

You have a point there. I rode this beast through railroad track rocks. Literally nothing on the bike was affected, when it jolted, bounced, and spun out for 300 yards of 2-4 inch rocks. I only had to stop a couple of times when the front wheel jumped sideways so far the bike nearly turned 45 degrees from the direction of travel. Later that day the front tire came up flat. The flat was on the rim side, and was likely caused by the tight fit of the tires on the rim. I had probably pinched the tube during the installation. I installed them Saturday, pumped both tires up the next morning before the ride. I had noticed the front was a little lower than the rear.,,,,BD



What I rode through, was like this....

https://lovesphotoalbum.com/wp-conten...New-Mexico.jpg

thumpism 

I've been meaning to convert my Cimarron to drops and dug out an old drop setup that has been hanging around in order to try it for fit. Seems to be okay, so now it is only a matter of digging up my extra barcons, some cables and small parts to make it happen.

Mumonkan

my oxfords are upside down, does that count?



1987 MB-2 i bought from @dailycommute

dailycommute

Looking great, glad to see it rolling! How would you describe the ride?

jstar1000

OK so I'm now a member of the drop bar 26er cult. I've been wanting to build one up for sometime. I have a 1984 Miyata street runner that would be perfect to do one with but its all original and so cool I just couldn't bring myself to make any changes to it for some stupid reason so I have been on the lookout for the right frame and or complete bike. I will say that just before I found this one I picked up a Ross frame for $10 but its just such a lesser quality made frame then this one I'm not going to go forward with it more then likely. I may throw a bunch of low end parts on it and sell it off for what ever I can get out of it but it wont be much, more then likely. I found this frame and fork from a local parts flipper when buying parts for the Ross, he had this and said $30 and its yours. I couldn't pay him fast enough. Hell I would have gave him $30 for the fork alone lol. Man was I a happy man when I got home and got this thing cleaned up. This is the first mock up. I'm trying to build it up with parts I have on hand but did order some new brakes for $58 delivered so for now I'm still under $100 on this thing as seen and the brakes or in route. I will post more photos as it progresses. The pedals are all I could find for now to try it out as far as fit.
/

Mumonkan

weighs about 35lbs as it sits without the bag loaded, but still some things to square away (dyno lights, grips, drivetrain stuffs). its pretty much perfect for cruising around, snappy handling and with the bag the fork geo still allows me to ride no handed which is pretty amazing.

its basically a couch. i havent been on it for more than an hour yet but so far its second in comfort only to my ecr but that has an unfair advantage

simmonsgc

Got my '88 MB/2 back from powdercoat yesterday. Here's a pic of the new finish made in the same spot as the before shot.



Here's the before:

superstring

Great colour, simmonsgc! It reminds me of an Ibis colour from the late '80s.

Seems like the MB-2 is a favourite for these DB conversions. I'll have to post a pic of my completed MB-2 soon.

Mumonkan

so much bridgestone love on bf lately

really diggin the purple!