Chrome Molly

Does anyone use "upright" bikes for light training or mid distance riding?

I have a continual shoulder problem that is getting in the way of longer rides on the drop bar bikes (either in the drops, hoods, etc). Moving around on the saddle works for a while, but eventually there is a very sharp and present pain while riding that must be endured. Sometimes are better than others, but it's become clear that this doesn't happen on my relatively upright mountain bike. Yes, it sucks that my upper body gives out before my legs do, thus the frustration and intent to have a plan for those times.

Thinking of a bike that could be used for 30 mile or longer rides in relative comfort. Not looking for speed, obviously, with the riding position. However, I'm thinking a 15-16 mph clip should be possible and sustainable in all but windy conditions.

What are the considerations for doing this, as compared to a drop bar bike (frame size, saddles, crank length, pedals, tire size)? I'd like to do it right in terms of the right combo for spirited riding (though both looks and performance would be nice).

Thanks,

CM

Velognome 

I've pondered this same thing for a while. I finally have on the stand a Raleigh Comp GS frame, Campy SR running gear, Nitto Northroad Bars, IRD shifters, Brooks Flyer and Bluemel Club specials. Hopefully I get it finished by the end of the year

Here is a link to a thread for builds of this type - https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...tml?highlight=

Hope you enjoy.

nlerner

My commuter bike is currently set up with Albatross bars, and I used it on a 50-mile rt ride a few weeks ago. It's definitely slower going than on a drop-bar bike, mostly because of pedaling leverage, but I was perfectly happy with my pace.

jr59

Isn't this what Nitto made their techno stem for?

Or are you looking for something other than that.

Grant Petersen does a few bikes like this.

15-16 mph avg sitting upright seems like a good deal of work over 30 miles or so, but YMMV.

clubman 

My SR Triathlon needed a sprung saddle to stay comfy for medium rides. Not that I've done any this year, still mending from knee replacement
I'd still try to keep the bars as low as possible. You say your lower body is strong so shorter cranks should be good, less wriggling in your saddle and less chance of knee bumping on the bars. Comfy hand grips help out greatly, I use those thick Schwinn repops from 20 years ago. I'm not sure if they're still available. Good platform pedals are helpful too if you don't go clipless or old school.

jeirvine 

I find that seat position (height/fore-aft/tilt) and its relation to BB/cranks and bars can make a huge difference on the between the shoulder blades burning pain that I used to get. For me, a little tilt back and a position not too far behind the BB balances everything better, so there's less pressure on my hands, and I don't need to use those shoulder muscles as much to maintain position. Also, paradoxically, on some of my bikes a longer stem was better, which stretched out the torso, and as long as the seat position still allowed for butt/hands balance, it felt better. YMMV, but it's worth experimenting a bit.

oddjob2

Try a Trek FX. The higher stem height is comfy.

Bandera

I had a flare up of shoulder bursitis a while ago and the only bike that I could tolerate was my town bike.



With a Nitto techno stem and their moustache bars it's suitable for an hour or so with no problems.
If it was the only bike I had mid distances could certainly be covered at a dignified gentlemanly pace in rolling terrain.

-Bandera

SJX426 

I'm like'n what @jeirvine has suggested. I don't' have any pain in my shoulders, but his explanation got me thinking about the weight distribution or force on the bike from the body distribution.

I have put more miles on a bike this year than any for a very long time, averaging about 3-400 miles a month with over 1700 miles on a very aggressive layout (bar about 2-3" below the saddle). I have discovered that with stronger legs, there is less weight on the hands and saddle. As jeirvine explained, the saddle needs to be in the right location to help balance the saddle support and hand support around the leg support.

I think I found that balance as I now steer more with my hips than my hands and transitioning from hands free to any bar location for my hands is really easy, even one hand then the other. Core strength can make a huge difference too. I really don't do much exercise out of biking but I do sit ups after every morning ride, along with a couple of other exercises. This has made a significant positive difference in my overall ride experience by using my core to contribute to balance control. That is, I don't sit on the saddle as much with more of my effort being applied to the pedals.

Had this discussion with another biker the other day who rides an insane amount of miles. His commute is 33 miles one way! He stated that he saddle is used to keep the bike aligned with his body more than being used to support his body. Interesting statement as that is exactly what I use to say 35+ years ago! Makes Brooks saddles more tolerable!

fender1

The Riv approach seems to work for a lot of folks. That usually means a longer stem, think 11cm-12cm if you usually use a 9cm or so. This helps with the bar placement not being too close to you. Also, a lot of the same folks will add bar tape to the lower section of the bar to use as a secondary hand position.

noglider 

No one can say what will work for you. You may need to do a lot of experiments. Bullhorn handlebars are worth consideration. They are not higher than drops except where the reach is longer. Oddly enough, I like them.

My Super Course now has all-rounder bars (slightly swept back) with bar ends. The bar ends raise me slightly. I haven't ridden 30 miles this way, but I think I could do so easily.

Hypno Toad

I feel your pain, I took to slams on the right shoulder this fall (one exmaple ). I haven't been able to use drop bar bikes for long rides for a few weeks.

Here is one of the options for keeping the weight off my shoulder:


(bikes all fixed up for Tour de Fat in Minneapolis this summer)

My Globe Daily is a fairly fast bike, I have 28 mm Panaracer T-Servs that are relatively fast. The two limitations: gearing is 1x8 and it's not geared for fast down hills. But that's not a big deal because when sitting upright, the wind will keep you from descending fast.

I'm happy to ride 30-40 miles on this bike. Over the summer, I used this bike to pick up doughnuts on the way to the office, the 'special' doughnut shop made my morning commute 32 miles and I averaged over 15 mph. (I am a relatively fast rider, I ride my road bikes solo at 18-20 mph pace).

Shp4man

These days, my favorite bike is equipped with "upright" bars, a spring saddle and a kickstand. It used to bother me when the Lycra clad weekend racers passed me, but no longer. As far as distance goes, no problems, just not as fast.
Smell the roses and all that stuff, you know?

McBTC

Check out brachiation. Google --e.g., "shoulder impingement hanging Kirsch" as, It [hanging from an overhead bar] cures 99 percent of shoulder pain. ~Dr. Kirsch

noglider 

This is very helpful to me. Or maybe it will prove to be. Thank you.

10 Wheels

Have you ever ridden a trike.



18.1 MPH for 62 miles
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4_QKzeJOS6E

Chrome Molly

The experiments with positions on the bike have been done to a large degree with little success. My mileage this year is over 6k already so there have been some improvements made. Will still try to tune up the road position.

I will consider adding a little brachiation to the routine as it seems I'll have a swinging good time if nothing else. Saving the recumbent bikes for my teetering old man phase.

Bandera's rig seems to hit a sweet spot for keeping some speed. Would a wider saddle be better for that sort of thing? Would you use the bars to bring up the torso or use a shorter frame? Seeing how stem and bars would get you so far but want something natural and not a tweener stance.

Bandera

I had a B-72 on that bike for some time, the B-17 is much better for me allowing more rotation of the hips and a better tuck for headwinds.



Being long adapted to the classic road racing fit the drop/reach pictured are quite moderate for me & didn't aggravate my bursitis.

I had to use a stupid looking stem to reduce drop on my Audax-ish winter/wet bike while recovering: You gotta do what you gotta do.



-Bandera

browngw 

I have a severe neck shoulder pain problem on longer rides as well. The solution has been a hi-rise stem and bars tilted up a bit. That, and a Brooks B17 has made my Salsa Vaya my most comfortable ride. I even sold my Giant hybrid yesterday. I can still get down for power and wind relief.

davester

As others have noted, bike fit is critical for eliminating shoulder pain, and probably the most important but often overlooked aspect of fit is saddle fore-aft position. I too had miserable shoulder pain for a quite a long while. The solution for me was to move the saddle back until I had barely any weight resting on my hands. I then obtained a shorter stem to compensate for the saddle move. That did the trick.

RobbieTunes

+1
I had a Trek FX 7.2 and it was a quality bike. Upright, hybrid-type, and I did a metric on it. No problem at 16mph +

noglider 

Yeah, my wife rides a Trek FX 7.3. I would call her position semi-upright. It is an excellent design. And trigger shifters are nice. Hers has a 3x8 drivetrain.

ThermionicScott 

Everyone knows that an "upright" bike is good for short distances, but they can work for long distances too:

Velognome 

No joke, I ride with a 69 year old who keeps up the pace on 30+ mile rides with a Northroad bar set up

gomango

Have you thought of a MAP/Ahearne bar?

Ahearne/MAP Handlebars / Wheelhouse Oakland

Or a Jitensha maybe?

Nitto handlebar

Maybe with a Nitto Techno stem to get the bars up a bit. JR's idea sounds good.



Also,don't forget to check out Gunnar's beauty of a Chris Kvale here:

https://oakwoodlife.blogspot.com/2015...-pictures.html

I could easily see owning a bike like this at some point.