Wildwood 

Hey @Lattz - i said somewhere - too old for Lo-Pro, the Rossin was likely too small, and an experienced man knows his limitations. I also passed on a Schauff, maybe just getting too picky.

Lattz

​​​​Hey @Wildwood I know you told it at the TT forum. Wanted to pull your leg by mentioning a 60+ food delivery guy in my city (which is flat as a pool table) who's one of the coolest bikers around in my eyes ignoring the corp issued delivery ebikes and making the job with a DH Mountain Bike with Lefty, but for sure I get your point as well. Im 37 and sometimes already feel old even for my road bikes asking myself do I need this? But of course I do. My heart would shout for that Rossin l, not my wrists and backbone though. Was the Schauff also a lo pro?

xiaoman1 

Wildwood
Agreed...that is a beauty!!!!
Best, Ben

J.Higgins 

Thanks for clearing that up, John. I never knew that tool existed! I guess this shows you how many Campy chains I got in this shop!

JohnDThompson 

This is the first Campagnolo chain I've used as well. Campagnolo sells their own peening chain tool, but it's god-awful expensive, and BikeToolsEtc has the Park CT-11 on closeout sale for only $20 right now. Apparently the CT-11 has been superseded by the CT-4.3.

rustystrings61 

I spent some time this morning messing around with chain tension and chainring concentricity with my Mercian - which now wears Crank Brothers Egg Beaters. Twenty years after I swore off clipless on pavement, I've decided to give it another try.

noglider 

I trued the rear wheel on my Super Course. It wasn't bad, but it was on my list so I removed the tire and mounted the wheel on my truing stand and did a better than on-the-bike job. I like to get of our bikes in fine tune every so often, and I'm going through all our bikes and doing this.

I also went to all the bikes and made sure each one has a headlight mount and a taillight mount for battery lights. We have various model taillights which all use the same type of mount, so that's good.

mrv, it's a common mistake to call them Heliomatic, but the correct name is Helicomatic.

RobbieTunes

Rebuilt a ‘96 Litespeed. Came to me with Campy, but, um, not.

Version RT1 was Ultegra 6800 with Bontrager RXL TLR wheels. 50/34 and 11-28. Worked well. Boring! I also could use a bit more climb.

I built a 1x10 years ago, SRAM. That approach is different. I have a current 1x11 SRAM Force, really different.

Version RT2 began with a Ritchey Carbon fork. Big improvement. Picked up SRAM Red 2x10. Very light. Interesting. No crankset, Went with Stronglight Pulzion. If you find one < $200, buy it. The learning curve was there, YouTube helped. 50/34 and 12-30. Rolf Vector Pros came out of hiding, and a helping of Chinese carbon finished it off.

17.2 lbs of totally different bike.
It’s 20 years better. Much more agile.
I think W. David Lynskey would approve.

Shakedown is 80 miles on Saturday.
Go big or stay home.

Frame - BF C&V
Fork - BF C&V
Group - BF C&V
​​​​​​

RobbieTunes

You can always carry street shoes in that little seat bag....
Great colors, great crankset. Great job.
One of those builds you walk over to.

SurferRosa

Finished the '72 Torpado. Wow. No words. Amazingly smooth ride. A keeper, for sure.

Prowler 

Saving junk! At the LBS on Monday, I noticed a very rusted Suntour RD in the scrap bin, so rusted that I could not read the model number on the chromed steel outer plate. But, in my experience, few of these RDs have seen enough use to be worn out. So I brought it home and salvaged the salvageable bits - adjustment screws, cage rotation stop pin, body tension spring, wheels. You never know when you or someone will need em. Ex: I know that Suntour adjustment screws are not the same thread as those on the omnipresent Shimano RDs, and the Suntour wheel axles are a different diameter. And I really like Suntour Cyclone derailleurs and intend to keep me running.

mechanicmatt

Buying from BikeToolsEtc is always a good choice. And Park Tools make awesome chain tools.

eom 

That's a sweet looking bike!

spoefish

I picked this up at a local Goodwill last year and turned out to be more useful than I expected. Recently turned 80, and over the last few years I have discovered that my perfect frame size has gone from 58 cm to 54 cm. Most of my current lifetime collection of road bikes(Schwinn Paramount, Woodrup, Mercian, Surly, Austro Daimler, Fuji Opus III) are 58 cm. My Kona Sutra is a 54 (mismarked as a 58), and I have a nice 1983 Trek 700 that is just a tad over 22" so it will be ok. And my mountain bikes are very forgiving and will be ok as well. The Specialized Sirrus seems to be a version that they made only in 1997. NIce steel tig welded cromo butted frame, beautiful ruby metallic paint, and came with a 7 speed RSX group. Rear dropout spacing is 130 so no problem there. Digging through my parts collection I have found all the Shimano 9 speed pieces I need to bring it up-to-date a bit (9 is up-to-date for me). The frame seems to be much better than the RSX group so I don't mind doing the upgrades. Have to decide to stick with my usual bar end shifters or use a new set of 9 speed 105 brifters I found in my parts box. I will get some pictures posted later, but would be interested in any experience anyone has had with this frame. Next project to to take the Trek 700 - bought it in 1985 from someone who had upgraded it with Campy Super Record. I have enough old Suntour to put it back in the original configuration with a triple crank and a cyclone GS rear. The old legs need all the low gears they can get... Cheers and stay well

SurferRosa

Needed a bottle cage and clamps for the Torpado and couldn't wait, so I snagged the Velo Orange one from the old Paramount. In doing so, I found a mess of rust on the Schwinn's down tube cable guide around the bolt. Really surprising, 'cause I don't ride much on wet pavement and I just built up the bike like five years ago. The rust was thick, too. Over thirty minutes in naval jelly didn't get it, so I used some 80 and 600 grit. Then added some clear nail polish. It looks a little worse for wear, but so does the Schwinn's paint.



And here's the cage on the new bike.



I ordered the same one as a replacement for the Schwinn. Didn't want to spend $22 on it, but waddya gonna do? Nothing in my bin looked appropriate...

VtwinVince

This RM Hammer was a complete basket case, with a rusted frame, seized DX rapidfire shifters etc., but it was original, so did a re&re with new white paint and decals, got the driveline working again and put some period rubber on.

viperocco

Finally got this on the road. Was a little more involved than I had planned at first but was worth the experience.


The rust I was dealing with


Kubota orange

Rides great, needs a new seat, seatpost and couple other minor items

Mr. 66

Takara Competition, Tange no. 2 tubing. The Black Widow cleaned up very nicely.

viperocco

Nice work on the wheels

robertorolfo

Nice work. What was your paint stripping process/materials?

viperocco

Thank you. There was a bit of a learning curve as it was my first time on this type of project but what worked for me was an orbital sander with 100 grit to remove the bulk. Went through 6-7 sanding discs, perhaps more. Sanded by hand and used wire brushes on a drill where the sander could not reach, then used 220-250 grit wet sand after paint was removed. Then primed, sanded, painted.
Hope that helps.

mattk42

7 speed is the most up to date for me, and I'm ~1/3 your age You're more with the times than I am. I recently broke a non-drive crankarm, on my drop-barred late 80s Rockhopper Comp, some unidentifiable Shimano crankset of probable 90s origin. Thankfully the local coop had just reopened a few days before (they had been holding out to implement some improvements for covid precautions: hand washing and air flow related) and I was able to score a nice Shimano Deore LX set and found some decent condition Sugino rings. The Deore set is the versatile 110/74 BCD triple and I got exact gearing I wanted 48-36-24. Nice high end for riding the flats and good low for climbing the gravel forest roads. No ramps/pins on any of the chainrings though and I was concerned that shifting may not be good. However, I use bar end shifters on this bike and on the stand and in use the shifting is superb. If you're planning on shifting a Suntour triple drivetrain that may be something you want to consider too. I bet the 105 brifters would handle a Suntour freewheel just fine but I can't say from experience whether the front will shift well with a brifter. My road bike is a indexed Suntour variety with a straight toothed Suntour 6 speed freewheel, and it shifts great.

thorstein

Any particular reason you used the XC over the LePree? I'm thinking about using a LePree 3-pulley on my '84 Stumpjumper.

Andy_K 

Yeah, the band spring that pulls the cage back broke in the LePree. I originally bought the XC just to get the spring and fix the LePree, but I couldn't get it out so I just cleaned up the XC and used it.

thumpism 

My bro-in-law just brought this by for a once-over, a Panasonic Tourist 5 that someone gave him. It was sold at my old alma mater, Two Wheel Travel, and according to the shop sticker it was assembled by Bryan, who is still spinning wrenches in town. Nice little bike, but this one has unfortunately been parked near pool chemicals or fertilizer because the normally terrific chrome is peeling on the crank and rims. Shame. Paint is still in great shape and it must have never been ridden. 22" frame should fit his bride perfectly. I think the derailleur and shifter have been replaced because these FFS bikes usually had Positron on them.