What have you been wrenching on lately?
#3701
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#3702
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Likely a 1-1/4" wrench will also work (equivalent to 31.75mm), although it might fit tightly on some marques of BB tool. Usually this much slop is built into the system. 0.25mm too tight is not a lot. I've done this with car stuff, because large sockets and wrenches are always cheaper in inch sizes here, and often I think they are the same exact forgings as their metric counterparts from the same manufacturer.
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Owner & co-founder, Cycles René Hubris. Unfortunately attaching questionable braze-ons to perfectly good frames since about 2015. With style.
Owner & co-founder, Cycles René Hubris. Unfortunately attaching questionable braze-ons to perfectly good frames since about 2015. With style.
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#3703
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A piece of pipe works better and can of course be longer.
This setup is going the wrong way but is the same in reverse.
It has never failed, hurt, ruined any tools, frames, paint, parts, pieces or flesh, ever.
#3704
Edumacator
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Goose Creek, SC
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Bikes: '87 Crestdale, '87 Basso Gap, '92 Rossin Performance EL-OS, 1990 VanTuyl, 1980s Losa, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 1987 PX10, etc...
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I actually broke the ears off of a park 32mm wrench trying to leverage the Shimano cartridge tool...oops. They are not meant to be wrenches of that sort. I have a Shimano cartridge unit tool that is bolted onto the spindle (non drive side) and cup which shouldn’t put extra friction since they are one unit...so the cup and cartridge should be disinstalled counter clockwise together. The only thing I can think of is that it is further squishing the two together but it is only snugged to reduce play.
i might install some wheels to get a better hold on the frame.
i might install some wheels to get a better hold on the frame.
Here's what to try if that doesn't work, it will use that wrench for the cheater.
A piece of pipe works better and can of course be longer.
This setup is going the wrong way but is the same in reverse.
It has never failed, hurt, ruined any tools, frames, paint, parts, pieces or flesh, ever.
A piece of pipe works better and can of course be longer.
This setup is going the wrong way but is the same in reverse.
It has never failed, hurt, ruined any tools, frames, paint, parts, pieces or flesh, ever.
__________________
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super, 1971 Raleigh International, 1998 Corratec Ap & Dun, 1991 Peugeot Slimestone
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super, 1971 Raleigh International, 1998 Corratec Ap & Dun, 1991 Peugeot Slimestone
#3705
buy my bikes
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Michigan
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Prepping a to offer a frameset and attached components for sale.
got a spiffy used Brooks in the mail today from jethin
and my trail bike kept dropping the chain where my pie plate should be. Nuts.
#3706
Newbie
Took the day off yesterday and built myself one of these...
...to squeeze into my shed...
...to squeeze into my shed...
#3707
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
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Of the two available cage spring tension positions, I have always used the lower one for every Nuovo Record rear derailleur I've used. But, for whatever reason, it wasn't working properly on my latest build, this '72 Torpado. When I abruptly stop pedaling on a small rear cog, the chain would go slack and rub the front derailleur, a noise made much worse when hitting a bump at the same time -- often the reason for the pause in pedaling in the first place. I'm hoping the higher tension position will keep the chain tight. Pretty easy job, with the most difficult part being the removal of all cable slack, which, for me, is just trial and error.
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#3708
Total Scrounge
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Of the two available cage spring tension positions, I have always used the lower one for every Nuovo Record rear derailleur I've used. But, for whatever reason, it wasn't working properly on my latest build, this '72 Torpado. When I abruptly stop pedaling on a small rear cog, the chain would go slack and rub the front derailleur, a noise made much worse when hitting a bump at the same time -- often the reason for the pause in pedaling in the first place. I'm hoping the higher tension position will keep the chain tight. Pretty easy job, with the most difficult part being the removal of all cable slack, which, for me, is just trial and error.
...
...
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#3709
Overdoing projects
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#3710
Senior Member
Recently acquired this 1965 Moulton bike. Completely disassembled, every nut and bolt and part cleaned. Powdercoated the frame a cream colour, new tires, new Sturmey archer crankset, new 5 speed sturmey archer 5 speed hub, new sealed BB, new cables, new brooks saddle, newer flat bars and stem, original wheels and brakes.
#3711
Senior Member
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Finally working on the 1984 Trek 760 bought in 2014 as an incomplete project with franken build. Ratty frame condition in terms of finish. Started a thread on it. https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...d-finally.html
Current, toay, state.
P1040451 on Flickr
Current, toay, state.
P1040451 on Flickr
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Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
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#3712
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Ta-da...
Just got the freebie girl’s Raleigh ct-200’s Altus c-10 shifter working as designed...just needed access, a spritz of wd-40, and an old dental pick to get that itty bitt pawl moving freely...
My new to me Park Tool extreme range clamp put the bike right where it needed to be in my all of a sudden crowded shop...three MTBs with their arms stretched out!
Last edited by billnuke1; 11-13-20 at 04:16 PM. Reason: More pics...
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#3714
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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Fourth shifter iteration on my buddy Danny's Diamond Back. He's now into riding after buying the bike new in the early '90s and hopes to hit 1,000 miles before the end of the year so I do what I can to keep him going. Original early RapidFire was replaced by GripShift MRX with the non-indexed front but hand problems made front shifting difficult so we switched to indexed MRX on the front. This week he's been saying he can't shift to the big ring and it turned out not to be the bike so I dug out some old XC thumbies and tried the left one in place of the MRX.
Test ride was encouraging so we'll see how this goes. He can use his whole palm to shift if he needs to and I showed him how to tweak the fit if he needs to move the shifter around for better reach. Also installed a new Cateye Padrone wireless computer to replace the old no-name one that's losing its display. He gets to trim off the excess strapping and calibrate it.
Test ride was encouraging so we'll see how this goes. He can use his whole palm to shift if he needs to and I showed him how to tweak the fit if he needs to move the shifter around for better reach. Also installed a new Cateye Padrone wireless computer to replace the old no-name one that's losing its display. He gets to trim off the excess strapping and calibrate it.
#3715
2-Wheeled Fool
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Started a drop-bar conversion with this Stumpjumper. Curious frame rub on the DS chainstay. Its as if the rider had been riding through muck and debris and it had gotten caught in the crank and he just kept riding without removing it. Weird.
I'm going to try to match the paint and spray just that area. Will post results when I do.
Okay here it is. Ace hardware "Banner Red" paint. I cleaned up the area with a scotchbrite pad, and hit it with a nice coat. Looks okay from 10 feet. Its not awesome by any means, but its protected at least.
Upon further examination and reflection, it appears to me that this scarring was the result of some serious chain suck. Biopace rings were installed and they were beat to hell and back.
I'm going to try to match the paint and spray just that area. Will post results when I do.
Okay here it is. Ace hardware "Banner Red" paint. I cleaned up the area with a scotchbrite pad, and hit it with a nice coat. Looks okay from 10 feet. Its not awesome by any means, but its protected at least.
Upon further examination and reflection, it appears to me that this scarring was the result of some serious chain suck. Biopace rings were installed and they were beat to hell and back.
Last edited by J.Higgins; 11-14-20 at 09:05 AM.
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#3717
WV is not flat..
Just finished this ParkPre today. First venture into replacing the elastomers in a shock. Very easy job and feels great. Pretty cool early 90's ride.
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#3719
Senior Member
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I've been working on a Raleigh Competition G.S. from 1980 I found in a basement with a few of the original parts. I had to remove all the paint and that meant several bad rattle can jobs and a couple of quite professional paint jobs, as well as what little was left, after umpteen layers, of the original Raleigh laquer. More on this when I get this a bit more complete.
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#3720
Veteran, Pacifist
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Been collecting the little bits....
.....and at night, polishing away the grey on a battered Triomphe crankset ( from @Lascauxcaveman ), tho’ still not finished.
So almost ready to finalize the first build. May need a narrower BB for a double crankset - that’s the wrenching question to be tested with 3 double options. Maybe I need a triple with this 122mm spindle!?!
Here are two of the crank options. A third option is a VeloOrange 46/30 (deeper in the storage so no pic yet).
but first the bike, again.
This is the No Drive Side Picture. To confuse @T-Mar
Neither crank is era appropriate. Campa matches Gran Sport ders + shifters. Thun is German as is the frame/fork. Pictured is GS der option, but Turismo or a Huret Svelto is also possible.
Here is the scratched Triomphe, before beginning the polishing work, which still is not finished.
Either crankset seem on obvious choice???
Let me find a photo of the VeloOrange, for fair comparison
All opinions appreciated.
The brakes are Universal,
levers Galli, Ambrosio stem, 3TTT bars. Huret Svelto or Campa GS.
Tubular wheels will also not be early 60s.
edit to add a picture of the VeloOrange crankset on a previous build.
please pardon mismatched tires.
So almost ready to finalize the first build. May need a narrower BB for a double crankset - that’s the wrenching question to be tested with 3 double options. Maybe I need a triple with this 122mm spindle!?!
Here are two of the crank options. A third option is a VeloOrange 46/30 (deeper in the storage so no pic yet).
but first the bike, again.
This is the No Drive Side Picture. To confuse @T-Mar
Neither crank is era appropriate. Campa matches Gran Sport ders + shifters. Thun is German as is the frame/fork. Pictured is GS der option, but Turismo or a Huret Svelto is also possible.
Here is the scratched Triomphe, before beginning the polishing work, which still is not finished.
Either crankset seem on obvious choice???
Let me find a photo of the VeloOrange, for fair comparison
All opinions appreciated.
The brakes are Universal,
levers Galli, Ambrosio stem, 3TTT bars. Huret Svelto or Campa GS.
Tubular wheels will also not be early 60s.
edit to add a picture of the VeloOrange crankset on a previous build.
please pardon mismatched tires.
Last edited by Wildwood; 11-15-20 at 02:14 PM.
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#3721
Edumacator
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Fixie project for student
One of my kids had his bike stolen and is going through a tough time...so I quickly searched for a replacement to get him...found a challenged repainted tank with decent bones and wheels.
using some polishing compound to turn the matte to semi gloss...then bought an accessory pack and chain at WM... might try to go straight bar for him.
using some polishing compound to turn the matte to semi gloss...then bought an accessory pack and chain at WM... might try to go straight bar for him.
__________________
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super, 1971 Raleigh International, 1998 Corratec Ap & Dun, 1991 Peugeot Slimestone
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super, 1971 Raleigh International, 1998 Corratec Ap & Dun, 1991 Peugeot Slimestone
#3722
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Medford MA
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Bikes: Ron Cooper touring, 1959 Jack Taylor 650b ladyback touring tandem, Vitus 979, Joe Bell painted Claud Butler Dalesman, Colin Laing curved tube tandem, heavily-Dilberted 1982 Trek 6xx, René Herse tandem
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Volvo P80 subframe bushings. Lucky for me, they have plastic shells, so they're easily cut to remove. Surprisingly, the best way to get them out is with a cordless drill up the side. Strange little buggies, Volvos...
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Owner & co-founder, Cycles René Hubris. Unfortunately attaching questionable braze-ons to perfectly good frames since about 2015. With style.
Owner & co-founder, Cycles René Hubris. Unfortunately attaching questionable braze-ons to perfectly good frames since about 2015. With style.
#3723
señor miembro
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@Wildwood, I'd continue polishing that messy grey residue from the Triomphe (been there) and put it on the Harding or another bike. The chainrings looks great. A Gran Sport crankset would be my choice for the Rickert. Maybe Rick in Shoreline has one. He's got everything else.
#3724
Total Scrounge
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Just finished setting this up for my dad.
I was going to ride it in stock form, but came to realize that it didn’t do anything better than my late 90’s mtb. The original Araya rims were just not doing it for me in the braking category. So, I took some better wheels, crank, and bb from another estate sale bike I bought over the summer, did a 1x9 setup, and a tall stem, et voila. He’ll put the seat down a little, the bars will be up high, the gearing is real easy; I think he’ll like it.
I was going to ride it in stock form, but came to realize that it didn’t do anything better than my late 90’s mtb. The original Araya rims were just not doing it for me in the braking category. So, I took some better wheels, crank, and bb from another estate sale bike I bought over the summer, did a 1x9 setup, and a tall stem, et voila. He’ll put the seat down a little, the bars will be up high, the gearing is real easy; I think he’ll like it.
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#3725
Not lost wanderer.
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Stripped it to the bare frame for a thorough cleaning and flat bar conversion.