Show us your vintage mountain bikes!
#6926
Senior Member
^ Nice build. You know you can replace the freehub with an 8-11sp one and keep the same wheels. I did this swap when I had a spare wheelset to keep the original wheels with the bike.
#6927
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Location: Upstate New York
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Bikes: 1976 Motobecane Grand Jubile, Austro Daimler 'Ultima', 2012 Salsa Vaya, 2009 Trek 4300, Fyxation Eastside, State Matte Black 6, '97 Trek 930 SHX, '93 Specialized Rockhopper, 1990 Trek 950
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If so, I'd strongly consider doing it sometime this spring. I just need to figure out whether to go with an 8, 9, 10 or 11 speed cassette, and what size cogs to use. I'm not sure how much travel I can realistically get off of the LX RD-M550 rear derailleur.
#6928
Senior Member
Interesting. So you're saying that an 8-11 speed freehub will fit on my Deore LX M550 rear hub, without a problem? The axle would be long enough to accommodate the lock ring after the swap?
If so, I'd strongly consider doing it sometime this spring. I just need to figure out whether to go with an 8, 9, 10 or 11 speed cassette, and what size cogs to use. I'm not sure how much travel I can realistically get off of the LX RD-M550 rear derailleur.
If so, I'd strongly consider doing it sometime this spring. I just need to figure out whether to go with an 8, 9, 10 or 11 speed cassette, and what size cogs to use. I'm not sure how much travel I can realistically get off of the LX RD-M550 rear derailleur.
When I did it with a M650, I had to use the freehub and cone off the donor wheel. I had swapped them and made the donor wheel 7 speed.
I've gone up to 34T with a M560 rear dérailleur, which is similar to the M550.
Last edited by katsup; 01-27-20 at 10:49 AM.
#6929
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Kips Bay, NY
Posts: 2,212
Bikes: Ritchey Swiss Cross | Teesdale Kona Hot | Haro Extreme | Specialized Stumpjumper Comp | Cannondale F1000 | Shogun 1000 | Cannondale M500 | Norco Charger | Marin Muirwoods 29er | Shogun Kaze | Breezer Lightning
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Yes, the main issue is having the right cones for the drive side. An easy way is to buy the entire hub and using the axle, cone, and freehub. While you're at it, use the new bearings. Sometimes this can be cheaper than buying just the freehub.
#6930
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,753
Bikes: 1986 KHS Fiero, 1989 Trek 950, 1990 Trek 7000, 1991 Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo, 1992 Trek 1400, 1997 Cannondale CAD2 R300, 1998 Cannondale CAD2 R200, 2002 Marin San Rafael, 2006 Cannondale CAAD8 R1000, 2010 Performance Access XCL9R
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This has been a long time coming. I acquired this 1990 lugged steel Trek 950 in very questionable condition last September. It wasn’t exactly a budget buy at $150.00, but I REALLY wanted to see how great these old lugged Treks mountain bikes are. So I bought it, and the planning process began. I didn’t really have an exact spot in my bicycle line-up for the Trek, so I kind of had to make a place for it. My ‘93 Rockhopper had been doing duty as my bikepacking mule, as well as my grocery getter and all around MUP and trail bike. So I decided to relieve Rocky of some of its duties, and setup the 950 as a pure lightweight trail ripper, while maintaining the possibility of extended gravel and road rides.
The initial plan was pretty simple and straightforward. Clean up the bike. Replace whatever was worn out or destroyed. Then as I stripped it down and cleaned it up, the build began to evolve (read as “got way more expensive”). I eventually ended up replacing pretty much everything except for the frame, fork, derailleurs and wheels, while keeping an eye toward buying the lightest parts I could afford, but keeping the contact points as comfy as possible.
Fast forward 4 months and $650.00 worth of parts later, and here it is, Blue Thunder in all its glory. I’m very happy with it, weighing in at a svelte 25 pounds. It still has a 3x7 drivetrain, mostly because I love the original wheel set. But this could easily evolve into a single speed bike next season, if the rest of the build continues to impress me.
Blue Thunder had her maiden voyage this afternoon. Nothing legendary, but a quick 8 mile jaunt of suburban and urban road riding, mixed with lots of curb hopping, and a brief couple of stops for picture taking. I couldn’t handle much more, given the 38 degree camp weather outside, and the beginning of a rain storm.
Initial results are excellent. The Brooks saddle, mixed with the wide aluminum handlebar and fat soft tires, made for a wonderfully compliant ride. Almost springy on the heavier rebounds. Tires were both pumped to a modest 43 pounds of pressure. Wicked comfortable, but light and nimble. The only immediate change I’ll make is to shorten the handlebars a tad. They felt a little wide during my ride, and definitely felt wide as I gripped the bar ends on steeper descents.
Here is the full build list:
* Frame: 1990 Trek 950 in Intense Blue with white accents, treated with Progold Steel Frame Protector.
* Fork: Trek 950 Cruise Control fork in Intense Blue, treated with Progold Steel Frame Protector.
* Headset: TANGE Levin CDS 1" 26.4MM Black with added 2mm spacer.
* Stem: Origin8 Pro Fit ATB - 1 - Fork Diameter / 25d Angle / 180mm Steerer/ 90mm stem.
* Handlebar: Truvativ 700 40 Rise 31.8 Hussefelt Riserbar (Blast Black).
* Grips: Ergon GP3 BioKork, size large.
* Bar end plugs: Domain Cycling aluminum bike handlebar bar end plug - black
* Seat Post: Race Face Deus XC seatpost 26.8 X 400.
* Saddle: Brooks C17 Carved Black All Weather.
* Shifters/Brake Levers: Shimano ST-EF65-7 3X7 integrated shifters/brake levers.
* Shifter Cables: Jagwire Sport shift kit.
* Brake Cables: Jagwire Sport brake kit.
* Brakes: Shimano Deore T610 v-brakes.
* Bottom Bracket: Shimano UN55 BB Square Taper (68x113mm).
* Cranks: Shimano Deore LX 175mm Crankset FC-M560 - Black.
* Crank Bolts: Forest Bykes 8mm Hex Crank arm fixing bolt with Caps.
* Pedals: Fooker mountain bike pedals - 3 bearing in blue.
* Pedal Extenders: Sunlite Pedal Extenders, 9/16" to 9/16" - 27.5mm long.
* Chain Rings: Shimano Deore LX w/black alloy 46/36/24 round Superglide.
* Chain: SRAM PC 870 P-Link Bicycle Chain, 8-Speed, Grey.
* Chain Stay Protector: Lizard Skins Adhesive Bike Protection - Black.
* Front Derailleur: Shimano Deore LX - FD-M550.
* Rear Derailleur: Shimano Deore LX - RD-M550.
* Rims: Matrix Single Track 26" X 1.5" hard anodized, custom drilled for Schrader valves.
* Spokes: 14G stainless steel.
* Hubset: Shimano Deore LX 32-hole with w/QR.
* Cassette: Shimano Hyperglide CS-HG50 7 Speed, 12-28.
* Tubes: Continental 26" x 1.75"- 2.5", 40mm Schrader valve with lock nuts.
* Tire Liners: Mr. Tuffy Ultra Lite brown 26" x 1.95".
* Tires: Schwalbe Table Top HS 373 Addix - Folding Bead, Beige-Skin - 26” x 2.25”.
And here’s a full album
I'm curious how you like the pedals off that first ride?
Yes, your axle is 135mm in the rear and the XTR of that period (M900) was 8-11 speed with the same design.
When I did it with a M650, I had to use the freehub and cone off the donor wheel. I had swapped them and made the donor wheel 7 speed.
I've gone up to 34T with a M560 rear dérailleur, which is similar to the M550.
When I did it with a M650, I had to use the freehub and cone off the donor wheel. I had swapped them and made the donor wheel 7 speed.
I've gone up to 34T with a M560 rear dérailleur, which is similar to the M550.
Last edited by zjrog; 01-27-20 at 08:18 PM.
#6931
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Bikes: 1976 Motobecane Grand Jubile, Austro Daimler 'Ultima', 2012 Salsa Vaya, 2009 Trek 4300, Fyxation Eastside, State Matte Black 6, '97 Trek 930 SHX, '93 Specialized Rockhopper, 1990 Trek 950
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Yes, your axle is 135mm in the rear and the XTR of that period (M900) was 8-11 speed with the same design.
When I did it with a M650, I had to use the freehub and cone off the donor wheel. I had swapped them and made the donor wheel 7 speed.
I've gone up to 34T with a M560 rear dérailleur, which is similar to the M550.
When I did it with a M650, I had to use the freehub and cone off the donor wheel. I had swapped them and made the donor wheel 7 speed.
I've gone up to 34T with a M560 rear dérailleur, which is similar to the M550.
So I could replace the 7 speed freehub with an 8-11 speed freehub and then just re-dish the wheel for proper spacing. Pop on a Shimano CS-HG700 HyperGlide 11-speed cassette, and replace the existing shifters. Easy peasy?
#6932
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Bikes: 1976 Motobecane Grand Jubile, Austro Daimler 'Ultima', 2012 Salsa Vaya, 2009 Trek 4300, Fyxation Eastside, State Matte Black 6, '97 Trek 930 SHX, '93 Specialized Rockhopper, 1990 Trek 950
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I like the pedals very much. I've also used the same model pedals for the last six months on my '93 Rockhopper. I have no complaints. The bearings are smooth. The construction is strong. The pins provide excellent grip. I really have nothing to complain about. They even come with a small maintenance kit, with some washers and pins. Highly recommended.
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#6933
Senior Member
Okay. This is getting a bit beyond my wheel understanding. I'm frankly not much a wheel man.
So I could replace the 7 speed freehub with an 8-11 speed freehub and then just re-dish the wheel for proper spacing. Pop on a Shimano CS-HG700 HyperGlide 11-speed cassette, and replace the existing shifters. Easy peasy?
So I could replace the 7 speed freehub with an 8-11 speed freehub and then just re-dish the wheel for proper spacing. Pop on a Shimano CS-HG700 HyperGlide 11-speed cassette, and replace the existing shifters. Easy peasy?
Last edited by katsup; 01-27-20 at 12:51 PM.
#6934
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Bikes: 1976 Motobecane Grand Jubile, Austro Daimler 'Ultima', 2012 Salsa Vaya, 2009 Trek 4300, Fyxation Eastside, State Matte Black 6, '97 Trek 930 SHX, '93 Specialized Rockhopper, 1990 Trek 950
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Easiest way is buying a used M900 rear hub as I think the cones are the same as M550 (can't confirm). Getting a freehub off a hub alone would be difficult though. Almost any Shimano freehub should fit, so just look for a pair of used wheels. The hardest part is finding the right cone, which is why it's easier to find a used pair and swap both the cone and freehub.
Why do you want to redish? I left the non drive side cone on the same axle and only swapped the freehub and drive side cone. Edit: I did originally take the non drive side cone off to get the axle off (easier to remove), but put the cone back in the same position on the axle.
Why do you want to redish? I left the non drive side cone on the same axle and only swapped the freehub and drive side cone. Edit: I did originally take the non drive side cone off to get the axle off (easier to remove), but put the cone back in the same position on the axle.
#6935
Senior Member
#6936
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Bikes: 1976 Motobecane Grand Jubile, Austro Daimler 'Ultima', 2012 Salsa Vaya, 2009 Trek 4300, Fyxation Eastside, State Matte Black 6, '97 Trek 930 SHX, '93 Specialized Rockhopper, 1990 Trek 950
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But will any old cone work with the cup on my hub, or is that also an issue?
#6937
Senior Member
And here I was thinking that a cone is a cone is a cone, and a freehub is a freehub is a freehub. So for whatever new 8/9/10/11 speed freehub I use, I need to make sure that I have a perfectly matching cone for it.
But will any old cone work with the cup on my hub, or is that also an issue?
But will any old cone work with the cup on my hub, or is that also an issue?
#6938
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Bikes: 1976 Motobecane Grand Jubile, Austro Daimler 'Ultima', 2012 Salsa Vaya, 2009 Trek 4300, Fyxation Eastside, State Matte Black 6, '97 Trek 930 SHX, '93 Specialized Rockhopper, 1990 Trek 950
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But it can be any old 8 speed wheel? The cone from that wheel will fit the cup on my 550 hub? Or is that where the XTR M900 hub specifically comes into play?
#6939
Senior Member
Search around, there are a lot of discussion about doing this swap with DX M650 wheels, which are almost an exact match to your LX, but were only around for a few years. It is easier to search the DX as they only came with 7 speed free hubs.
#6940
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Kips Bay, NY
Posts: 2,212
Bikes: Ritchey Swiss Cross | Teesdale Kona Hot | Haro Extreme | Specialized Stumpjumper Comp | Cannondale F1000 | Shogun 1000 | Cannondale M500 | Norco Charger | Marin Muirwoods 29er | Shogun Kaze | Breezer Lightning
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Okay. This is getting a bit beyond my wheel understanding. I'm frankly not much a wheel man.
So I could replace the 7 speed freehub with an 8-11 speed freehub and then just re-dish the wheel for proper spacing. Pop on a Shimano CS-HG700 HyperGlide 11-speed cassette, and replace the existing shifters. Easy peasy?
So I could replace the 7 speed freehub with an 8-11 speed freehub and then just re-dish the wheel for proper spacing. Pop on a Shimano CS-HG700 HyperGlide 11-speed cassette, and replace the existing shifters. Easy peasy?
#6941
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Upstate New York
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Bikes: 1976 Motobecane Grand Jubile, Austro Daimler 'Ultima', 2012 Salsa Vaya, 2009 Trek 4300, Fyxation Eastside, State Matte Black 6, '97 Trek 930 SHX, '93 Specialized Rockhopper, 1990 Trek 950
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Your best chance is with a Shimano freehub on a Shimano hub. Mine was a replacement newer Shimano wheel (BS something) that came with a bike I parted out.
Search around, there are a lot of discussion about doing this swap with DX M650 wheels, which are almost an exact match to your LX, but were only around for a few years. It is easier to search the DX as they only came with 7 speed free hubs.
Search around, there are a lot of discussion about doing this swap with DX M650 wheels, which are almost an exact match to your LX, but were only around for a few years. It is easier to search the DX as they only came with 7 speed free hubs.
LOL. Thanx.
#6942
Senior Member
I bet your '97 Trek 930 (assuming your bike list is up to date) has the freehub you want.
#6943
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Bikes: 1976 Motobecane Grand Jubile, Austro Daimler 'Ultima', 2012 Salsa Vaya, 2009 Trek 4300, Fyxation Eastside, State Matte Black 6, '97 Trek 930 SHX, '93 Specialized Rockhopper, 1990 Trek 950
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#6944
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: USA
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Bikes: 1996 Trek 970 ZX Single Track 2x11
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@dualresponse -- Beautiful classic Cimarron, there. Love the relatively upright riding position you've created.
Got a basic parts list handy, for what you've created? Bars, stem, grips, saddle, tires, fenders + flaps.
Nicely done.
Got a basic parts list handy, for what you've created? Bars, stem, grips, saddle, tires, fenders + flaps.
Nicely done.
#6945
WV is not flat..
Just picked up this 93 Scott Comp Racing mtb. Its hard to find any info on these, but it is a pretty decent bike. Deore LX group and what I can see is a replacement fs. Most I have found online have a bright yellow/chartreuse rigid fork on them.
#6946
Junior Member
@dualresponse -- Beautiful classic Cimarron, there. Love the relatively upright riding position you've created.
Got a basic parts list handy, for what you've created? Bars, stem, grips, saddle, tires, fenders + flaps.
Nicely done.
Got a basic parts list handy, for what you've created? Bars, stem, grips, saddle, tires, fenders + flaps.
Nicely done.
Thanks:
seat- I recovered an old beat up sella italia slr in brown leather.
stem- ritchey something or other ( I had to buy a replacement fork, so I got a one inch threaded fork with a long steerer, didn't cut it, and set it up as a threadless stem setup).
mavic 517rims xt hubs xt 11-34 (or 36) 9 speed rear cassette - can't remember, sugino 175 20,32,42 triple crank. xt derailluers, shifters, some old brake levers I sandlbasted and polished.
bars(the 58's) - https://www.rivbike.com/products/nit...nt=28423605005
fenders- https://velo-orange.com/collections/650b-fenders (recontoured to 26' because 26 were sold out)
mudflaps- https://velo-orange.com/products/leather-mud-flap
tires- rat trap pass https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop...rat-trap-pass/
brakes :https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tektro-CR72...72.m2749.l2649
grips-(nothing special- I wanted to try something in the shape of original period grips- these are cheepies, but are still working!) I was thinking of trying these and then upgrading, but they have worked so well, there's no need. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Bik...72.m2749.l2649
Oh yeah... And I don't baby it! It's got about 500 miles so far. Here's some mud from this weekend for a nice patina!
Last edited by dualresponse; 02-04-20 at 07:18 PM.
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#6948
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: USA
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Bikes: 1996 Trek 970 ZX Single Track 2x11
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seat- I recovered an old beat up sella italia slr in brown leather.
stem- ritchey something or other ( I had to buy a replacement fork, so I got a one inch threaded fork with a long steerer, didn't cut it, and set it up as a threadless stem setup).
mavic 517rims xt hubs xt 11-34 (or 36) 9 speed rear cassette - can't remember, sugino 175 20,32,42 triple crank. xt derailluers, shifters, some old brake levers I sandlbasted and polished.
bars(the 58's) - https://www.rivbike.com/products/nit...nt=28423605005
fenders- https://velo-orange.com/collections/650b-fenders (recontoured to 26' because 26 were sold out)
mudflaps- https://velo-orange.com/products/leather-mud-flap
tires- rat trap pass https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop...rat-trap-pass/
brakes :https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tektro-CR72...72.m2749.l2649
grips-(nothing special- I wanted to try something in the shape of original period grips- these are cheepies, but are still working!) I was thinking of trying these and then upgrading, but they have worked so well, there's no need. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Bik...72.m2749.l2649
stem- ritchey something or other ( I had to buy a replacement fork, so I got a one inch threaded fork with a long steerer, didn't cut it, and set it up as a threadless stem setup).
mavic 517rims xt hubs xt 11-34 (or 36) 9 speed rear cassette - can't remember, sugino 175 20,32,42 triple crank. xt derailluers, shifters, some old brake levers I sandlbasted and polished.
bars(the 58's) - https://www.rivbike.com/products/nit...nt=28423605005
fenders- https://velo-orange.com/collections/650b-fenders (recontoured to 26' because 26 were sold out)
mudflaps- https://velo-orange.com/products/leather-mud-flap
tires- rat trap pass https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop...rat-trap-pass/
brakes :https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tektro-CR72...72.m2749.l2649
grips-(nothing special- I wanted to try something in the shape of original period grips- these are cheepies, but are still working!) I was thinking of trying these and then upgrading, but they have worked so well, there's no need. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Bik...72.m2749.l2649
Going through all of the parts, one at a time, cleaning everything and replacing the worn items. Swapping out a few in favor of "upgrades" that are (to me) more suitable for "cruiser" (upright) style of riding.
It'll still be some weeks before I've completed the work, but it should be something like this: Trek 970 3x8spd, with Deore LX/XT components; Wald 872 bars (3in rise, 60deg sweep, 180mm reach [from stem]); undecided on grips; Kool Stop brake pads; Brooks Cambium C19 saddle (for now, a comfort thing); and Schwalbe Big Ben Plus 26x2.15 tires. Should end up somewhat similar to your Cimarron's layout.
Love the Nitto Bosco bars, but I'm more in favor of a somewhat shallower rearward sweep (not quite as straight back). The Wald 872 seems a reasonable compromise ... similar rise and style, but a less-aggressive sweep. About one-fourth the price, too, which doesn't hurt.
Haven't decided on fenders. The "rainy" season's approaching so I'll need to decide soon. I like the look that your V-O stainless units give. With the leather flaps, it looks like great coverage.
The Schwalbe Big Bens should do nicely, I think. A bit of puncture protection, in the "Plus" variant, so should work for the crappier urban surfaces I contend with. A bit narrower than the Rat Trap Pass tires, so they'll fit better in this vintage of Trek 970 (which has narrower chain stays up close to the crank. Can't see them allowing tires much larger than 2.2in or so, with fenders. At least on this 970, there's not much more room on that end.
Choices, choices. Gotta love it.
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#6949
Senior Member
Just snagged this from the local bike co-op: 1989 Panasonic MC4500. I think this was the last year of Panasonic in America? The price - a whopping $70, and all original in very good shape. Needed pedals so I pulled some period correct Sakae Lo-Fats from my stash. Now what to do with it? Thinking maybe a euro style trekking bike... what say the collective mind?
#6950
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Seattle WA
Posts: 2,841
Bikes: 2009 Handsome Devil, 1987 Trek 520 Cirrus, 1978 Motobecane Grand Touring, 1987 Nishiki Cresta GT, 1989 Specialized Allez Former bikes; 1986 Miyata Trail Runner, 1979 Miyata 912, 2011 VO Rando, 1999 Cannondale R800, 1986 Schwinn Passage
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Smokinapankake that is a very nice score! For myself I usually have to restrain the urge to fill a cart with a bunch of new parts but as I have gotten (even) older I have started to slow down and after making sure the bike is safe (shifts, stops, tires not dry rotted etc) I just ride it for a while and let it tell me what works and what doesn't, if it fits, if I like the ride etc. This has saved me from making investments and spending allot to time on a bike that really didn't fit. So ride it, allot, take notes and then decide, YMMV. I only figured this out after spending $$ and time first and then realizing the bike wasn't a great fit
If you do make upgrades, save the old stock parts. Enjoy the Panasonic.
I picked up this Trek for $20 and fixed a flat, got the shifters to work again and have just about got it to index to all gears. After riding it I know I would want to swap the tires to something more urban suited and I would need the stem to be a touch shorter for a really dialed in fit.
Trek 850 Antelope
If you do make upgrades, save the old stock parts. Enjoy the Panasonic.
I picked up this Trek for $20 and fixed a flat, got the shifters to work again and have just about got it to index to all gears. After riding it I know I would want to swap the tires to something more urban suited and I would need the stem to be a touch shorter for a really dialed in fit.
Trek 850 Antelope
Last edited by ryansu; 02-08-20 at 12:00 PM.
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