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How do I remove this BB?

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Old 01-29-20, 01:55 PM
  #1  
lhill 
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How do I remove this BB?

I hope to have my old Peugeot powder coated soon so I am gathering tools and reading how to articles so I can strip the frame and fork. I have the tool to remove the cranks and headset remover and press, but I‘m not sure about the bottom bracket. From the picture I provide, how does it come apart? I can take the otherwise stripped frame to my LBS and have them remove the BB, but I would rather do it myself. Thanks for your help!
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Old 01-29-20, 01:57 PM
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Take off the lockring with a hook spanner and the BB with a pin spanner.
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Old 01-29-20, 02:01 PM
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Is that the dreaded plastic BB? If so, you have one shot at using the correct tools, or else it will make a very unpleasant, determined mess that will defy nearly all efforts to remove it. Please don't ask how I would know this.
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Old 01-29-20, 02:03 PM
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Old 01-29-20, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by USAZorro
Is that the dreaded plastic BB? If so, you have one shot at using the correct tools, or else it will make a very unpleasant, determined mess that will defy nearly all efforts to remove it. Please don't ask how I would know this.
Looks like all steel to me.......
Maybe the question is, is it French or Swiss threaded?...... So the OP will know which way to turn the spanners...
It actually looks like there could be enough thread showing at the cup face to figure it out.

Last edited by Chombi1; 01-29-20 at 05:55 PM.
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Old 01-29-20, 06:14 PM
  #6  
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It's your bike OP but the paint around that bottom bracket looks pristine. I like painting my fugly bikes.
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Old 01-29-20, 06:23 PM
  #7  
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whoa, did not expect that

Last edited by garryg; 01-30-20 at 09:37 PM.
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Old 01-29-20, 06:29 PM
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Channel locks are easier if you plan on mangling it anyways. You don't even really need the pin spanner to remove if the cup isn't seized. The pin spanner is more for holding it in proper adjustment while tightening the locknut. Loosen the locknut, and you should be able to remove it with your fingers.

Also NDS is always a standard RH thread and I'm pretty sure it's a later internally brazed Peugeot so it's BSA and the cup says 1.37
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Old 01-29-20, 09:00 PM
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Thanks everyone, I understand the bb now thanks to you all. I’m going to remove it myself and maybe go back with a cartridge type bb.
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Old 01-29-20, 09:04 PM
  #10  
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RJ may also have a video on this BB too
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Old 01-29-20, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by lhill
Thanks everyone, I understand the bb now thanks to you all. I’m going to remove it myself and maybe go back with a cartridge type bb.
I would strongly encourage you to master the tools and skill to remove this intact, if its still usable it will be a good original or like part to keep for reference or another project in the future.

These can be challenging and a very good skill to learn even if you don't use it again on this.
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Old 01-30-20, 12:10 AM
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Yah! Please don't just waste the bottom bracket that might still be good and serviceable, it made it this far and long. You wouldn't want to be the one to senselessly kill it? Take it to a bike shop and they might lend you the right tools to take it off, right there, without mangling it all up.
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Old 01-30-20, 12:27 AM
  #13  
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Don't hack it up with a hammer and screwdriver. Get the right tools so you can work on it again.
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Old 01-30-20, 01:00 AM
  #14  
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Be sure to remove the drive side crank arm first.
the bright lock ring will remove anti clockwise. Almost always holding the adjustable cup is not needed for removal but will be for installation.

the fixed cup ... it is a later bike it appears could be Regular or LH thread. Old French was regular RH threading 35x1, later... Swiss LH 35x1 or English 1.370 x 24 LH.
the fixed cup may be best a bike shop task if you do not have the tools.

j
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Old 01-30-20, 03:13 AM
  #15  
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It's just a lowly BSA lockring. It's not even the BB cup. It's hardly the end of the world if it gets a bit marred, or a couple notches get screwed up. It's not some irreplaceable piece of history or like it would get damaged beyond the point of usability. It's not even in a highly visible place.

Given the internal fillets and what appears to be a 1.37 marking on the cup, it's almost certainly BSA.
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Old 01-30-20, 05:36 AM
  #16  
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I have ordered the Park Tools lock ring spanner and pin spanner so I will take it out carefully and reuse it if all goes well. Thanks again for your help!
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Old 01-30-20, 10:50 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Kuromori
It's just a lowly BSA lockring. It's not even the BB cup. It's hardly the end of the world if it gets a bit marred, or a couple notches get screwed up. It's not some irreplaceable piece of history or like it would get damaged beyond the point of usability. It's not even in a highly visible place.

Given the internal fillets and what appears to be a 1.37 marking on the cup, it's almost certainly BSA.
Maybe so, not the point, there's value in learning the drill for when it is a valuable specimen that you do want to save with the least amount of damage that doesn't cooperate.

This can make good practice when the stakes are low to acquire the tools, learn to use them and get it right.
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Old 01-30-20, 11:01 AM
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I think this thread was for garryg to send a message in secret code.
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Old 01-30-20, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by garryg
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Originally Posted by repechage
I think this thread was for garryg to send a message in secret code.
Message received.
Ben
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Old 01-30-20, 03:11 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by merziac
Maybe so, not the point, there's value in learning the drill for when it is a valuable specimen that you do want to save with the least amount of damage that doesn't cooperate.

This can make good practice when the stakes are low to acquire the tools, learn to use them and get it right.
Using a hook wrench is about 95% buying a decent hook wrench and about 5% common sense. Unfortunately most bicycle hook wrenches are pretty bad and you may very well do less damage with channel locks than with a bad hook wrench. Channel locks can also be modified to engage with the notches and offer improved control. Compare the cheap and so-so Park Tool hook wrench, compared to the excellent and relatively expensive Hozan lockring pliers. VAR also made lockring pliers. So if you want to do it "right" I'd still err towards channel locks, just with the jaws ground down like the Hozan.

Last edited by Kuromori; 01-30-20 at 03:23 PM.
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Old 01-30-20, 04:30 PM
  #21  
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True that, the best tool in the world doesn't do a damn thing until you pick it up and wield it to do your bidding.

I have a 45 year old Sugino that never fails me, ever. It has a wrap around spring quality about it that when executed properly grabs the ring and makes short work of it no matter how tight, stuck or seized it is.

The right tool, in the right hands.........

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Old 01-30-20, 09:41 PM
  #22  
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Whoa i really did not mean for my secret message to get posted, Also do not advocate hammering away at bb, but a little tap is often all that is needed.
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Old 02-01-20, 08:57 AM
  #23  
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You can just about completely take apart a bike with a hammer, a few screwdrivers, and a pair of vice grips, but I wouldn't recommend it.
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Old 02-01-20, 10:31 AM
  #24  
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This article on How To Rebuild a Vintage Bottom Bracket might prove helpful...
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Old 02-01-20, 02:49 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Chombi1
Maybe the question is, is it French or Swiss threaded?...... So the OP will know which way to turn the spanners...


No reason to remove the fixed cup if you're just going to overhaul it.
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