Updating wheels on an Ironman?
03-29-20, 01:23 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Updating wheels on an Ironman?
Hi everyone, hoping a few of you patient members would help clarify how I can fit new style clincher wheels onto an ironman. I've read various posts and with all the different ways of describing hubs, cassettes, flywheels, indexing, friction, re-dishing...I'm a bit overwhelmed.
From what I researched I can coldset frame to accept the wider wheels but that my ironman may already be at 128mm so I could just force them in. Done.
Here's where I'm stuck, since my ironman probably has a freewheel vs the newer freehub, I should
Option 1. Buy 7 sprocket cassette, add 4.5mm spacer. Will the existing derailleur & shifter be compatible?
Option 2. Use the existing 10 speed cassette. If I do this, I assume a newer derailleur and shifter will need to be purchased?
Lastly, will wheels need to be re-dish regardless of either options. Is this because more weight has shifted to the drivetrain side?
Thanks
From what I researched I can coldset frame to accept the wider wheels but that my ironman may already be at 128mm so I could just force them in. Done.
Here's where I'm stuck, since my ironman probably has a freewheel vs the newer freehub, I should
Option 1. Buy 7 sprocket cassette, add 4.5mm spacer. Will the existing derailleur & shifter be compatible?
Option 2. Use the existing 10 speed cassette. If I do this, I assume a newer derailleur and shifter will need to be purchased?
Lastly, will wheels need to be re-dish regardless of either options. Is this because more weight has shifted to the drivetrain side?
Thanks
03-29-20, 03:58 AM
#2
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Hi everyone, hoping a few of you patient members would help clarify how I can fit new style clincher wheels onto an ironman. I've read various posts and with all the different ways of describing hubs, cassettes, flywheels, indexing, friction, re-dishing...I'm a bit overwhelmed.
From what I researched I can coldset frame to accept the wider wheels but that my ironman may already be at 128mm so I could just force them in. Done.
Here's where I'm stuck, since my ironman probably has a freewheel vs the newer freehub, I should
What year and model Ironman? What components are currently on it? Why are we changing the wheels?
Option 1. Buy 7 sprocket cassette, add 4.5mm spacer. Will the existing derailleur & shifter be compatible? If your bike already has 7spd index shifting this is the simplest way to go, I've done this on a bike or two albeit with friction shifting and it worked well.
Option 2. Use the existing 10 speed cassette. If I do this, I assume a newer derailleur and shifter will need to be purchased?
Lastly, will wheels need to be re-dish regardless of either options. Is this because more weight has shifted to the drivetrain side? Depending on how your bike is set up and you don't mind friction shifting your current deraileur and shifter may handle the 10sp cassette, if you want to stay with index then yes you need a new set of shifters and rear derailleur. If you're buying off the shelf wheels they should not need to be redished for any reason unless you change the axle.
Thanks
From what I researched I can coldset frame to accept the wider wheels but that my ironman may already be at 128mm so I could just force them in. Done.
Here's where I'm stuck, since my ironman probably has a freewheel vs the newer freehub, I should
What year and model Ironman? What components are currently on it? Why are we changing the wheels?
Option 1. Buy 7 sprocket cassette, add 4.5mm spacer. Will the existing derailleur & shifter be compatible? If your bike already has 7spd index shifting this is the simplest way to go, I've done this on a bike or two albeit with friction shifting and it worked well.
Option 2. Use the existing 10 speed cassette. If I do this, I assume a newer derailleur and shifter will need to be purchased?
Lastly, will wheels need to be re-dish regardless of either options. Is this because more weight has shifted to the drivetrain side? Depending on how your bike is set up and you don't mind friction shifting your current deraileur and shifter may handle the 10sp cassette, if you want to stay with index then yes you need a new set of shifters and rear derailleur. If you're buying off the shelf wheels they should not need to be redished for any reason unless you change the axle.
Thanks
Good morning and welcome to the forums!! Any pics so we know more about the model of your Ironman?
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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03-29-20, 06:08 AM
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The Ironman is a great platform.
Here is a thread specific to The Ironman. Some have been updated.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...aint-jobs.html
Here is a thread with plenty of bikes brought up to 10 speed.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...i-s-ergos.html
Here is a thread specific to The Ironman. Some have been updated.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...aint-jobs.html
Here is a thread with plenty of bikes brought up to 10 speed.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...i-s-ergos.html
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03-29-20, 08:44 AM
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Cheapest way to do this is to buy an 8-9-10 speed 130 width wheelset, an 8-9-10 speed cassette with max cog size of 28, and an appropriate chain for the number of speeds. Assuming this is a Shimano equipped Ironman, set the shifters to friction and have at it. All of those Shimano components are compatible and work well with 8-9-10 speed setups.
If you want indexing, purchase a set of downtube shifters in the same number of speeds as the cassette and chain.
If you want to go to STI's, then likely you will need a later FD as well since the 105/600 ones found on 80's Ironman bikes were not intended to run indexed (note: this MIGHT work, and would be worth at least trying).
If you have a later Ironman with non-Shimano components, perhaps others here can give you advice on how to upgrade it.
If you want indexing, purchase a set of downtube shifters in the same number of speeds as the cassette and chain.
If you want to go to STI's, then likely you will need a later FD as well since the 105/600 ones found on 80's Ironman bikes were not intended to run indexed (note: this MIGHT work, and would be worth at least trying).
If you have a later Ironman with non-Shimano components, perhaps others here can give you advice on how to upgrade it.
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03-29-20, 10:35 AM
#5
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I put a set of new Vuelta XRP 130mm racing wheels on this 1987 Ironman. I put a 7 speed freewheel with a spoke protector spacer & a set of cheapie 2X7 Microshift brifters on it. Dropped it's weight down to about 21-1/2 lbs. Rides like a dream.
edit: Also upgraded to a 9 speed Shimano Deore M-591 RD and, extended range 32 tooth Sram cog set.
edit: Also upgraded to a 9 speed Shimano Deore M-591 RD and, extended range 32 tooth Sram cog set.
Last edited by ramzilla; 03-29-20 at 10:39 AM.
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03-29-20, 05:22 PM
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Act now and get 2 for the price of 1!!!!
Not really.
There are a couple of significant Ironman threads here. Tons of options. All good.
SInce you have 10sp wheels and a cassette, simple to pick up any 10sp Shimano RD and a set of 10sp fiwntube shifters. Then ride it like you stole it.
There are a couple of significant Ironman threads here. Tons of options. All good.
SInce you have 10sp wheels and a cassette, simple to pick up any 10sp Shimano RD and a set of 10sp fiwntube shifters. Then ride it like you stole it.
03-29-20, 05:31 PM
#8
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Thread Starter
Cheapest way to do this is to buy an 8-9-10 speed 130 width wheelset, an 8-9-10 speed cassette with max cog size of 28, and an appropriate chain for the number of speeds. Assuming this is a Shimano equipped Ironman, set the shifters to friction and have at it. All of those Shimano components are compatible and work well with 8-9-10 speed setups.
03-29-20, 05:36 PM
#9
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Thread Starter
thank you kind human. Back to the chain thing, so I see there are different widths of chains, Ill get one compatible with a 10. So, over thinking it, will the narrower chains work on front rings now?
03-29-20, 06:57 PM
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But in practice, it works. I've done 9sp chains with rings that were originally for 6 and 7sp drivetrains. Works fine. The lack of ramps on the rings makes shifting not as fast as modern, but the chains work fine.
03-29-20, 07:44 PM
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I bought mine as a frame, had the rear cold set to 130mm, and built it up with 9 speed Dura Ace. Works flawlessly and rides like a dream.
03-29-20, 08:04 PM
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03-29-20, 08:35 PM
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Given the hills and black wheels, a Shimano 105 (5600 or 5700) long cage RD along with about a 12-32 cassette will climb. Pair it with a compact crankset and you've got a climber plus.
Sky's the limit.
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03-30-20, 12:55 PM
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You should get a new chain anyway since you put a new cassette on it. No need to wear that out prematurely.
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03-30-20, 08:56 PM
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This one is all original. Completely restored w/new tires & everything.
03-30-20, 09:58 PM
#20
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03-30-20, 10:00 PM
#21
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03-31-20, 08:29 AM
#22
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This is what it looked like to begin with.
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