Haggling with LBS
#1
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Haggling with LBS
In your personal experiences, have you ever haggled with your LBS? If so, what strategies did you take? I personally love to haggle about almost anything I am buying. Never done it with a bike shop, but today will be that day!
Post what you haggled for and how much you think you probably saved at the LBS!!
Post what you haggled for and how much you think you probably saved at the LBS!!
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Be gentle on the price. They really aren't making that much. Some extended service, a few dollars off, and/or (maybe) a few small goodies. I don't try to play hardball. Just ask it that's their best price or what they can do for you.
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So for instance, today I am going to buy a 2014 Tarmac Sport from them. The sticker price is $1949, they told me they would do $1700. Before he even said the number, that's honestly what I was planning on offering him. But now I'm thinking maybe a new set of tires and $1700 is a good deal. The tires have probably been on the bike since it was built and who knows how many test rides its been on...I don't think new tires is a ridiculous request, considering I'm about to drop 2k after taxes...
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Up to you, but I'm sure the tires are fine. MSRP/sticker are less relevant on left-over stock...especially since the newest model has a redesigned group.
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"The older you do get, the more rules they're gonna try to get you to follow. You just gotta keep livin', man, L-I-V-I-N." - Wooderson
'14 carbon Synapse - '12 CAAD 10 5 - '99 Gary Fisher Big Sur
"The older you do get, the more rules they're gonna try to get you to follow. You just gotta keep livin', man, L-I-V-I-N." - Wooderson
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I would go for something that is really needed, and new tires isn't it. Your best bet may be a store credit. That gives you flexibility in case you find out later on you don't like the saddle or to get the bottle cages, etc.
But if it is clear you are ready to buy, the store has little incentive to sweeten the deal. Finding the same thing at another store and setting them against each other is your best bet if possible.
But if it is clear you are ready to buy, the store has little incentive to sweeten the deal. Finding the same thing at another store and setting them against each other is your best bet if possible.
Last edited by rpenmanparker; 03-11-15 at 01:05 PM.
#6
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I recently bought a pair of thorn proof tires at 29.99$ instead of 35.99$ i asked for a better price. I am a loyal and nice customer and they know me, and the things i buy.
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So for instance, today I am going to buy a 2014 Tarmac Sport from them. The sticker price is $1949, they told me they would do $1700. Before he even said the number, that's honestly what I was planning on offering him. But now I'm thinking maybe a new set of tires and $1700 is a good deal. The tires have probably been on the bike since it was built and who knows how many test rides its been on...I don't think new tires is a ridiculous request, considering I'm about to drop 2k after taxes...
#8
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Agree. Buy the bike for the price you were happy with initially ($1700) and make a friend with the LBS for when you need them and you need a favor fast. Having your LBS on your side is worth a lot when something happens.
J.
J.
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my bike shops are so generous providing free help and some free handouts I wouldn't think about haggling over anything. but then again I never buy new bikes from them. I only bring in the used stuff I buy on the street
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For bikes, buy last year's model instead of this year's model and you the shop will usually be willing to reduce the price 20-30% or more.
If you really must buy the current year's model, ask for discounts on accessories or service, but not on the bike itself.
Many bike shops sponsor local bicycle clubs or teams. If you join the club or team (dues are often cheap), the shop may give you a 10-15% discount on bikes, including current year bikes.
If you really must buy the current year's model, ask for discounts on accessories or service, but not on the bike itself.
Many bike shops sponsor local bicycle clubs or teams. If you join the club or team (dues are often cheap), the shop may give you a 10-15% discount on bikes, including current year bikes.
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Haggling is all about who has the most leverage between two willing participants.
Want to buy any previous model-year car from a dealership on the last day of the month at the end of a fiscal quarter?
You have the leverage.
Want to buy a specific new car with particular options on any given Saturday?
The dealer has the leverage.
Same principle applies to pretty much everything. Bikes included.
Want to buy any previous model-year car from a dealership on the last day of the month at the end of a fiscal quarter?
You have the leverage.
Want to buy a specific new car with particular options on any given Saturday?
The dealer has the leverage.
Same principle applies to pretty much everything. Bikes included.
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I have never had to haggle. Usually they quoted a reasonable discount when they new I was serious about buying.
If I can get it significantly cheaper elsewhere I will usually walk away and buy from the other source. If another place is slightly cheaper I will give the shop an opportunity to match the price.
If I can get it significantly cheaper elsewhere I will usually walk away and buy from the other source. If another place is slightly cheaper I will give the shop an opportunity to match the price.
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Yep. I have found that there are a lot of benefits from being a good customer. I can ride my bike to the shop and get it fixed while I wait. I have been a steady enough customer that I get a 10-20% discount on everything, from tubes to an entire bike. I don't ask for the discount, they just give it because I do regular business there and I treat the employees with respect.
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I never haggle with my LBS, but they always give me everything I want at dealer cost plus shipping and tax, or at EP prices.
In return I give them EP on goods from the company I work for, and occasionally lead the A group shop ride.
Both sides are happy with this deal.
In return I give them EP on goods from the company I work for, and occasionally lead the A group shop ride.
Both sides are happy with this deal.
#16
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I only haggle when I have information that the shop is highly motivated to sell at a discount. So walking into a shop right now wanting a big discount on the hot new models isn't going to get you far. However, if I am interested in an older model, or I know that equivalent product is overstocked, or on sale somewhere else, I will raise this during negotiations. Usually I then get a competitive deal.
Sometimes I have information that motivates the shop owner to sell at a big discount. For example: a Sachs New Success derailleur group sitting in a shop display case for years. Price: $160. When I explained (truthfully) that the derailleurs are in no way Shimano indexing compatible, the price dropped to $30. Or an old stash of Ritchey clipless MTB pedals. I explained how these were dangerously incompatible with Shimano cleats, he almost begged me to take them off of my hands.
Stuff not to negotiate on: 'tune-ups'. Anything the shop will give you under this vague committment is worth nothing, because it is all stuff you should be able to do yourself. Like adjusting derailleurs or minor truing on wheels.
Consumables like chains and tires: you mail-order these in. Getting a 10% discount on a product that is half the price in the UK isn't worth much.
Sometimes I have information that motivates the shop owner to sell at a big discount. For example: a Sachs New Success derailleur group sitting in a shop display case for years. Price: $160. When I explained (truthfully) that the derailleurs are in no way Shimano indexing compatible, the price dropped to $30. Or an old stash of Ritchey clipless MTB pedals. I explained how these were dangerously incompatible with Shimano cleats, he almost begged me to take them off of my hands.
Stuff not to negotiate on: 'tune-ups'. Anything the shop will give you under this vague committment is worth nothing, because it is all stuff you should be able to do yourself. Like adjusting derailleurs or minor truing on wheels.
Consumables like chains and tires: you mail-order these in. Getting a 10% discount on a product that is half the price in the UK isn't worth much.
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My LBS was clear about being competitive; he said "Tell me what you can get it for and I will see if I can match it." So far, it's worked out for both of us [and everyone else he has said that to].
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The salesman should throw in his car to sweeten the deal. You're getting ripped off if he doesn't.
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Another time I hit a pothole (swerved to dodge a car) coming down a hill and needed the wheel trued. It was a busy day, the shop didn't have time. Gave me a set of Zipps to ride until they could get to mine.
Knowing I'll be taken care of in a pinch is worth a lot.
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Some shops will & some won't. If they won't, you are almost forced to take your business elsewhere, unless the price is within reason. I'll give my LbS a little leeway, because I want them around. But, I won't buy a big ticket item if they won't work with me. I've had experience with both types.
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I recently purchased a Trek Emonda SLR and was able to get an additional discount for cash.
Every little bit helps.
Every little bit helps.
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Look at it from the LBS's point of view. I understand that they want to move old inventory to make room for new, but at the same time, they have a financial investment in that bike. If you ask them for more money off, that is money out of their pocket. However, if you ask for some sort of a discount on the accessories you need, that is just less profit on those items. The latter is a way to save some money while being fair to both parties.