Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Utility Cycling
Reload this Page >

My project bike

Search
Notices
Utility Cycling Want to haul groceries, beer, maybe even your kids? You don't have to live car free to put your bike to use as a workhorse. Here's the place to share and learn about the bicycle as a utility vehicle.

My project bike

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-16-11, 12:44 AM
  #1  
tdouglass
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bellingham, WA
Posts: 23

Bikes: $20 goodwill special, project bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
My project bike

Day 1


Sanding/Oiling




I just picked this bike up for $20. I haven't ridden a bike since 6th grade (I am 20 now) but couldn't pass up on this deal. I am trying to change my life around, I want to get healthy again (I've put on some college pounds,) live a little happier (I am dealing with some minor depression, and I am sure it's due to my newly developed sedentary life style,) save some money (my Honda accord only gets about 23mpg combined,) and do my part to help the environment.

I plan on using it as a utility/short haul transportation bike. To and from the grocery store, the basketball courts, the park, and the beach.

From what I can tell I need to do about 3 waves of upgrades to this bike, since I am a college kid, I can't afford to do it all at once.

Wave 1: 2 new tires, a new chain, 2 new inner tubes, and a total tune up (lightly oil anything, remove a little light rust)

Wave 2: Rear rack and maybe bags, lighting, new seat, brake work?

Wave 3: Sand/clean and refinish any rusty spots, repaint, anything else I think of.

Sound like I have a good idea of what needs to be done? Any tips for someone who hasn't rode/worked on any bikes for almost 10 years? Thanks guys!

Last edited by tdouglass; 05-20-11 at 01:39 PM.
tdouglass is offline  
Old 05-16-11, 02:29 PM
  #2  
Standalone 
The Drive Side is Within
 
Standalone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: New Haven, CT, USA
Posts: 3,334

Bikes: Road, Cargo, Tandem, Etc.

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 120 Post(s)
Liked 44 Times in 28 Posts
I'm a fan of busted up old bikes that have been revived and placed on utility duty. I wouldn't put much cash into it-- once you get it running smoothly and put it through its paces, you're going to develop as a rider into someone who will justifiably want a bike that's a step or two above that one.

Your proposed upgrades are standard maintenance, but with a cheap frame like that, I wouldn't buy new drive train components and so on for it. The brakes aren't even mountain bike brakes, and won't really have the stopping power you want on a utility bike.

Once you get some more experience under your belt, you'll develop an eye for finding a bike that's less of a toy'recreational type thing and more of a serious bike worth maintaining and upgrading seriously. As it is, you're talking about $100+ of upgrades. Except for the chain and paint, everything can be switched over to another bike at some point, so they're worth getting.

Anyhow, good luck!
__________________
The bicycle, the bicycle surely, should always be the vehicle of novelists and poets. Christopher Morley
Standalone is offline  
Old 05-16-11, 03:00 PM
  #3  
thatguyryan
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: San Diego, Ca
Posts: 11

Bikes: Cannondale R800, Cannondale Multisport, Cannondale H300, Masi Speciale Fixed ltd

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I agree with Standalone. But although your bike may not be the most exotic brand, it doesn't mean your goal for it should be put aside. Being someone that also enjoys bringing old bikes back to life, I'd say rearrange your plan.

Perhaps this way:

Wave 1: Sand/clean and refinish any rusty spots, repaint(?) -but there's nothing wrong with this current paint job, anything else I think of (all FREE things you can do for your bike for aesthetics, proper and safe function, and anything for it to ride better than it currently does). Oil the bike, check the brakes n all cables too. Dial in the bike (get the most comfortable adjustments done. like the seat height and the stem length/ height, etc etc. So far, this should cost you NOTHING! =)

Wave 2: 2 new tires, a new chain(or oil the old one), 2 new inner tubes (Craigslist will almost always have parts that are 'good enough' for your purpose) -you'll save more this way. This may cost anywhere from $30 to $50 if you're looking to save.

Wave 3: Rear rack (pricey but they last as long as you take care of them) and maybe bags (or a back pack or messenger bag will be cheaper), lighting (craigslist, again).

Also, have you entertained this Q:

-What kind of terrain will the bike mostly be rolling on?
If the terrain is not too hilly, perhaps a single-speed project can help you reach your goal to increase exercise and therefore reach a better state of health. Besides, the maintenance is SO MUCH EASIER AS A SS.

just my .02 cents. But would like to see your progress if you're able to post pics and such. You have a good basis for your build and aim. It could take anywhere from a full week or 2 or 3. Sounds like fun! -GOOD LUCK! =)
thatguyryan is offline  
Old 05-16-11, 04:07 PM
  #4  
FunkyStickman
On a Mission from God
 
FunkyStickman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Thibodaux, LA
Posts: 2,010

Bikes: '10 Surly LHT, Rat-rod Klunker, '82 Peugeot PH12 Centennial

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 3 Posts
Definitely a lower end frame, but you can still make it useful and practical. Get it in good working condition (as best you can) and the more you ride it, the more of an idea you will get as to what it needs. It looks like it has a 1-piece crank, which will work, but it's heavy, and will need frequent cleaning if you ride it in bad weather.

It also looks like it won't take V-brakes, so the best you might be able to do is get new pads for it. It's a fine starter bike (despite what some people will say) and a cheap bike you ride is better than nothing at all. If you need help with it, post up here or in the Bike Mechanics section, and just ride it!
FunkyStickman is offline  
Old 05-16-11, 05:32 PM
  #5  
tdouglass
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bellingham, WA
Posts: 23

Bikes: $20 goodwill special, project bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Standalone
I wouldn't put much cash into it-- once you get it running smoothly and put it through its paces, you're going to develop as a rider into someone who will justifiably want a bike that's a step or two above that one.

Once you get some more experience under your belt, you'll develop an eye for finding a bike that's less of a toy'recreational type thing and more of a serious bike worth maintaining and upgrading seriously. As it is, you're talking about $100+ of upgrades. Except for the chain and paint, everything can be switched over to another bike at some point, so they're worth getting.
I am pretty crafty when it comes to building/tweaking things, and I can usually find some good deals if I look around, so I think I will be able to keep a pretty tight budget while I work on this project. I mainly got it as a project to get me busy and healthy, and a way to see if I want to get into cycling. If it turns out I do want to get into cycling, this can become a winter/beater bike, and like you said, most of the costly additions I make will swap over to a new bike if I go that route.

Thanks for the advice.

Last edited by tdouglass; 05-16-11 at 05:37 PM.
tdouglass is offline  
Old 05-16-11, 05:36 PM
  #6  
tdouglass
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bellingham, WA
Posts: 23

Bikes: $20 goodwill special, project bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by thatguyryan
I agree with Standalone. But although your bike may not be the most exotic brand, it doesn't mean your goal for it should be put aside. Being someone that also enjoys bringing old bikes back to life, I'd say rearrange your plan.

Perhaps this way:

Wave 1: Sand/clean and refinish any rusty spots, repaint(?) -but there's nothing wrong with this current paint job, anything else I think of (all FREE things you can do for your bike for aesthetics, proper and safe function, and anything for it to ride better than it currently does). Oil the bike, check the brakes n all cables too. Dial in the bike (get the most comfortable adjustments done. like the seat height and the stem length/ height, etc etc. So far, this should cost you NOTHING! =)

Wave 2: 2 new tires, a new chain(or oil the old one), 2 new inner tubes (Craigslist will almost always have parts that are 'good enough' for your purpose) -you'll save more this way. This may cost anywhere from $30 to $50 if you're looking to save.

Wave 3: Rear rack (pricey but they last as long as you take care of them) and maybe bags (or a back pack or messenger bag will be cheaper), lighting (craigslist, again).

Also, have you entertained this Q:

-What kind of terrain will the bike mostly be rolling on?
If the terrain is not too hilly, perhaps a single-speed project can help you reach your goal to increase exercise and therefore reach a better state of health. Besides, the maintenance is SO MUCH EASIER AS A SS.

just my .02 cents. But would like to see your progress if you're able to post pics and such. You have a good basis for your build and aim. It could take anywhere from a full week or 2 or 3. Sounds like fun! -GOOD LUCK! =)
1) To me, that paint job is horrendous I can't have that. It isn't something that NEEDS to be done, but i already have sandpaper, and a couple cans of spraypaint wouldn't cost a whole lot. It would also keep me busy some afternoon.

2) I think 2 new innertubes is a must right away, one of them won't hold air at all, so it needs to be replaced before I can ride it, and who knows how long the other one will last?

3) It's very hilly here. I live on a steep hill also, that will be interesting when I first begin riding, we'll see if my legs hold up

4) I know the racks and bags can be a little pricey, but like mentioned above, if I upgrade the bike, the other stuff can swap over.

Thanks for the response!
tdouglass is offline  
Old 05-16-11, 05:37 PM
  #7  
tdouglass
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bellingham, WA
Posts: 23

Bikes: $20 goodwill special, project bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by FunkyStickman
Definitely a lower end frame, but you can still make it useful and practical. Get it in good working condition (as best you can) and the more you ride it, the more of an idea you will get as to what it needs. It looks like it has a 1-piece crank, which will work, but it's heavy, and will need frequent cleaning if you ride it in bad weather.

It also looks like it won't take V-brakes, so the best you might be able to do is get new pads for it. It's a fine starter bike (despite what some people will say) and a cheap bike you ride is better than nothing at all. If you need help with it, post up here or in the Bike Mechanics section, and just ride it!
I am not too familiar with bike terminology, so I don't know exactly what you mean by 1 piece crank. I am still reading up though, so I will figure it out soon enough. I know it's a cheap bike, but since I don't know how much or even IF i will enjoy riding, it was all I was willing to buy at the time.

Thanks for the help.
tdouglass is offline  
Old 05-16-11, 06:00 PM
  #8  
sonatageek
Senior Member
 
sonatageek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cleveland,Ohio
Posts: 2,766
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
If the chain is not all rusty and if it works (moves around smoothly) I would not replace it. I would replace the tires, tubes and the rim strip (rubber strip that covers the spoke ends and protects the tube) with rim tape. I would also look up how to re-pack the bearing with grease and adjust them -- You would need a few tools (cone wrenches for the wheels, large adjustable wrench for the headset (there the handlebar stem goes in). If you decide to tackle that, make sure you read and understand how the quill stem works -- it is nothing hard, just not something that is intuitively obvious.

Are the wheel rims made of steel or aluminum? One problem with starting with a really low end bike, no matter what you do it will not ride as well or be as fun as a nicer bike. My experience is a used bike that was maybe $200-250 new gives a solid used base to work from.
sonatageek is offline  
Old 05-16-11, 07:40 PM
  #9  
tdouglass
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bellingham, WA
Posts: 23

Bikes: $20 goodwill special, project bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by sonatageek
If the chain is not all rusty and if it works (moves around smoothly) I would not replace it. I would replace the tires, tubes and the rim strip (rubber strip that covers the spoke ends and protects the tube) with rim tape. I would also look up how to re-pack the bearing with grease and adjust them -- You would need a few tools (cone wrenches for the wheels, large adjustable wrench for the headset (there the handlebar stem goes in). If you decide to tackle that, make sure you read and understand how the quill stem works -- it is nothing hard, just not something that is intuitively obvious.
I will decipher this, then get back to you with what I decide to do with the info I am still learning terminology. Thanks though, sounds helpful. Lol

Originally Posted by sonatageek
Are the wheel rims made of steel or aluminum?
Yes? Steeluminum? I don't know right now, but can check when I get out to the shed next.

Originally Posted by sonatageek
One problem with starting with a really low end bike, no matter what you do it will not ride as well or be as fun as a nicer bike. My experience is a used bike that was maybe $200-250 new gives a solid used base to work from.
Thanks, I will remember that advice if I enjoy cycling, and decided to upgrade my bike.

Thanks for the advice.
tdouglass is offline  
Old 05-16-11, 07:58 PM
  #10  
Standalone 
The Drive Side is Within
 
Standalone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: New Haven, CT, USA
Posts: 3,334

Bikes: Road, Cargo, Tandem, Etc.

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 120 Post(s)
Liked 44 Times in 28 Posts
put a magnet on the rim of the wheel and that will tell you whether it is steel or aluminum alloy. Or look for rust. Or better yet, don't worry about it and ride it until you're ready to upgrade, and sell the bike on for $20.

Perhaps the days of amazing deals are over, but my favorite (and fastest) bike was $40.
__________________
The bicycle, the bicycle surely, should always be the vehicle of novelists and poets. Christopher Morley
Standalone is offline  
Old 05-16-11, 08:08 PM
  #11  
tdouglass
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bellingham, WA
Posts: 23

Bikes: $20 goodwill special, project bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Standalone
put a magnet on the rim of the wheel and that will tell you whether it is steel or aluminum alloy. Or look for rust.
I know how to check, I just hadn't checked yet and the bike was in the shed, and I was 1/2 doing homework 1/2 surfing the forums, so I didn't want to get up.lol Now that I have checked, it is steel.

Originally Posted by Standalone
Perhaps the days of amazing deals are over, but my favorite (and fastest) bike was $40.
Hopefully I can find a great deal if I upgrade.
tdouglass is offline  
Old 05-16-11, 08:19 PM
  #12  
wahoonc
Membership Not Required
 
wahoonc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: On the road-USA
Posts: 16,855

Bikes: Giant Excursion, Raleigh Sports, Raleigh R.S.W. Compact, Motobecane? and about 20 more! OMG

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 15 Times in 14 Posts
That bike is near the bottom of the cycling hierarchy...nothing wrong with that. However I would keep my eyes open for a chance to upgrade to a nicer bike without putting too much time or money into this one. My personal favorites are 80's vintage mountain bikes without the suspension. Look for brands like Giant and Trek. Some of the older Mongoose are excellent but beware of the newer ones sold at WM. You will spend more time messing than riding.

Aaron
__________________
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
_Nicodemus

"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
_krazygluon
wahoonc is offline  
Old 05-16-11, 08:36 PM
  #13  
crazzywolfie
Full Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Orangeville, Ontario
Posts: 388
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
from the pic it looks like steel rims. i would not replace the chain if it works fine. replacing the tires and the leaking tube is a good idea. if there is lots of pad left i would not worry about replacing them till they are at the wear line. most of the brake pads at the stores near me are garbage compared to older pads. atomic zombie might help you learn a bit about bike parts.
crazzywolfie is offline  
Old 05-16-11, 09:30 PM
  #14  
tdouglass
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bellingham, WA
Posts: 23

Bikes: $20 goodwill special, project bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I just noticed the bigger ring on the crank is a little warped, not much, but just another thing keeping me from putting too much into this bike. I have rethought me restoration process. Also, the break pads look like they have been replaced recently.

Wave 1: New tubes, strip down the bike to it's frame for painting, and while it's all stripped down, oil all moving parts.

Wave 2: New tires, seat, rack, lighting (all can be moved to new bike someday)

Last edited by tdouglass; 05-16-11 at 09:50 PM.
tdouglass is offline  
Old 05-16-11, 09:54 PM
  #15  
crazzywolfie
Full Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Orangeville, Ontario
Posts: 388
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
sound like you have things organized pretty good now.
crazzywolfie is offline  
Old 05-17-11, 12:27 AM
  #16  
bendembroski
My legs hurt
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Farther behind you than I'd like to be
Posts: 683

Bikes: Vaya, Brompton, '73 Schwinn Super Sport, Cresswell Fold-it, '81 Trek 610

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Sounds like you have it all well in hand.

As you are doing / considering upgrades and developing as a rider in general, I'd reccomend a website as one of your first stops:

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/

The late, great Sheldon is a legend.
bendembroski is offline  
Old 05-17-11, 05:53 AM
  #17  
AdamDZ
Bike addict, dreamer
 
AdamDZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Queens, New York
Posts: 5,165
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by tdouglass
I want to get healthy again (I've put on some college pounds,) live a little happier (I am dealing with some minor depression, and I am sure it's due to my newly developed sedentary life style
Let me comment on the depression part. You're spot on that your sedentary life is the main reason for it. Or even better, let me plug my article about it: here.

As far getting back on a bike after a while: don't let yourself fall for the hype and trends surrounding cycling. My first bike after a long break was a cheap Huffy, then I had a cheap dept store bike and I was having a blast being back on the bike and riding again. It took me a couple of years to learn about bikes so I got a better bike.

Just make sure the bike is mechanically sound and safe and go ride.

Last edited by AdamDZ; 05-17-11 at 05:56 AM.
AdamDZ is offline  
Old 05-17-11, 06:20 AM
  #18  
LeeG
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 5,200
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 137 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 81 Times in 64 Posts
if you don't have a floor pump get one.
LeeG is offline  
Old 05-18-11, 01:23 PM
  #19  
tdouglass
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bellingham, WA
Posts: 23

Bikes: $20 goodwill special, project bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
My girlfriends roommate sold her bike, but not her floor pump, so I got one from her.

Picked up 2 tires and 2 innertubes at Fred Meyers. The tires are Bell Streamliners, got the 1st one mounted on the front tire. Gunna do the back tonight.

The whole bike is stripped down, gunna sand it down tomorrow morning, and lay the 1st base coat tomorrow afternoon. I decided on Periwinkle blue for the frame and flat black for the handlebar, fork, and maybe the wheels.
tdouglass is offline  
Old 05-19-11, 05:07 AM
  #20  
qmsdc15
Banned
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Maryland
Posts: 5,155

Bikes: rockhopper, delta V, cannondale H300, Marin Mill Valley

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Keep an eye out for another bike. Be careful riding that one, it looks dangerous to me.
qmsdc15 is offline  
Old 05-19-11, 09:00 AM
  #21  
tdouglass
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bellingham, WA
Posts: 23

Bikes: $20 goodwill special, project bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by qmsdc15
Keep an eye out for another bike. Be careful riding that one, it looks dangerous to me.
how so?
tdouglass is offline  
Old 05-19-11, 10:54 AM
  #22  
tdouglass
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bellingham, WA
Posts: 23

Bikes: $20 goodwill special, project bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Here she is, stripped and about 80% sanded down. Also have the new tires on, just to keep it standing upright as I sand, they will come off when it's time to paint.

tdouglass is offline  
Old 05-19-11, 09:17 PM
  #23  
tdouglass
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bellingham, WA
Posts: 23

Bikes: $20 goodwill special, project bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I took pictures of everything so I know how it went back together, but somehow the pictures got deleted >

I have this guy, but don't know where it goes for sure. It had a piece of tape I put on it and it said "rear derailleur " if that helps at all.

Please fix this! Lol Thanks guys/gals

tdouglass is offline  
Old 05-19-11, 09:27 PM
  #24  
Dan Burkhart 
Senior member
 
Dan Burkhart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Oakville Ontario
Posts: 8,117
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 943 Post(s)
Liked 658 Times in 371 Posts
Originally Posted by tdouglass
I took pictures of everything so I know how it went back together, but somehow the pictures got deleted >

I have this guy, but don't know where it goes for sure. It had a piece of tape I put on it and it said "rear derailleur " if that helps at all.

Please fix this! Lol Thanks guys/gals

It fits in the right side rear dropout from behind and the derailleur claw bolts to it with the screw in the picture.
Dan Burkhart is offline  
Old 05-19-11, 10:16 PM
  #25  
tdouglass
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bellingham, WA
Posts: 23

Bikes: $20 goodwill special, project bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Dan Burkhart
It fits in the right side rear dropout from behind and the derailleur claw bolts to it with the screw in the picture.
I knew it was something like that, but I fiddled with it for about 45 minutes and couldn't figure it out. I will post a pic of the derailleur if I can't figure it out tomorrow. Thanks

Also, what is the best way to get a chain back together? I used a chain tool to get the small round piece of metal out of the chain to break it, but now I can't get the little piece back into the chain. I can't use the chain tool to get it started because it won't fit if it isn't started, and I can't get it started without the chain tool.
tdouglass is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.