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Pure Fix Original Fixie pedal hits wheel

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Pure Fix Original Fixie pedal hits wheel

Old 07-27-19, 05:52 AM
  #26  
dabac
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Originally Posted by mikefule View Post
that bike has run into something that wasn't moving.
+1
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Old 07-27-19, 05:59 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by seamuis View Post
That bike has absolutely been in a front end collision.
+1
Originally Posted by seamuis View Post
...or possibly jumped off something high.
Thatíd be a very unusual damage to a jumped bike.
Bikes jumped beyond capacity tend to splay out, not compress. Only way I can see such a damage occurring from jumping is if someone would misjudge speed/distance and nosedive straight into the landing ramp. Or failing to clear a double.
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Old 07-27-19, 06:15 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by raffivegas View Post
.... is there a reason a single spoke on each wheel is red? .... I looked at stock pictures of Pure Fix wheels and they have black spokes with a single red one. Is this used like that for assembly order or something significant?
Originally Posted by seamuis View Post
....As for as the spokes, itís purely aesthetics.
Iíve seen a kinda-sorta rational reason when the differently coloured spoke is adjacent to the valve, making the valve easier/faster to locate.
But the strongest reason I agree is for looks.
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Old 07-27-19, 06:33 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by raffivegas View Post
The crank arm length is 170mm. Is this normal?
Canít say if itís stock, but 170 mm cranks are certainly common enough.
Originally Posted by raffivegas View Post
I wanted to remove the spokes and take the wheel apart
Then youíre basically looking at a wheel build. Do you know how to do that?
Originally Posted by raffivegas View Post
I wanted to remove the spokes and take the wheel apart and sand or chemically remove the black spray paint they used on these originally red wheels.

Sanding one layer of paint off accurately enough to leave the underlaying layer of paint fit for use would take some pretty serious skill.
A chemical strip may have greater chance of success.
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Old 07-27-19, 09:22 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by raffivegas View Post
got er up and running.

youtube dot com/watch?v=P3ka_cmYi1Y
Looks like you're making use of your purchase. Better than just trashing it, IMO.

Last edited by FiftySix; 07-28-19 at 07:11 AM. Reason: type-o
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Old 07-27-19, 12:36 PM
  #31  
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Anyone good enough to ride a fixed gear (fgfs) over a ramp or dirt jump probably has some kind of custom bike by that point because of the broken parts leading up to that skill level.

I think the person slammed into something head on. Doesn't take much to bend hi-ten. He could have also jumped off of the bike and then it ghost rode into a wall or something.

I don't think anyone in this particular sub-forum does any kind of trick biking (there's an fgfs subforum that gets a post once every few years or so).
Some people (like me) may have a bmx background and may mess around once in a while but I am assuming that most just like to ride.

Last edited by BicycleBicycle; 07-27-19 at 12:59 PM.
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Old 07-27-19, 01:04 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by dabac View Post
Iíve seen a kinda-sorta rational reason when the differently coloured spoke is adjacent to the valve, making the valve easier/faster to locate.
But the strongest reason I agree is for looks.
I wrote to the company about this and the rep responded almost exactly this way (quoting the guy from Pure Cycles):

"We design our bikes to have 1 colored spoke for aesthetic reasons.
It looks cool and is always easy to locate where your valve is on the wheelset. "
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Old 07-27-19, 07:44 PM
  #33  
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I find that looking for the valve is an easy way to locate the valve on the wheelset, but hey.
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Old 07-27-19, 09:17 PM
  #34  
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I had a shop use a similar "tool" on an Electroforged Stingray (the Midget) that had a mildly bent fork. Worked like a charm and never had an issue after the fact. The shop owner loved the bike and only charged me $5. I'd be more cautious with a bike bent as bad as the OP's, or with a lightweight frame. I doubt heavy frames would have an issue, especially with a lightweight rider who's not into jumping curbs.
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Old 07-31-19, 12:11 AM
  #35  
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So being the way I am, this was bugging me to no end, so I had to do something. I read the epic 5 page thread from Kurt showing the results of the HTS-1, and I didn't like the results. I decided to not bother with straightening the frame and figured I'd focus on the forks, because my 'bike bro' gave me some really nice ($$$) pedal straps (for free) and I wanted to use them but didn't want to kill myself with the insane toe/pedal overlap I had going on originally.

I really wasn't planning on attempting this today, but as I sat in the garage after putting the straps on and realizing I wasn't going to be able to use the straps with the fork bent so aggressively, I started looking around the garage to see how I could engineer a fork straightener. That's when I noticed the elliptical. The fork ends fit perfectly in the little nook at the bottom. I made the upside-down V with the bike and elliptical, and then put all my weight on the top tube and started bouncing the bike downwards with my 220lbs of body weight. I wasn't making too much progress so I got a bit more aggressive with my down-stroke. On the last one, I knew I had probably given it a little too much mustard.

It's amazing how steel works. The bulges on the underside of both the top and bottom tubes are gone, however, there is now a rather large lump on the top tube and the frame is now bent upwards instead of downwards. I inspected for cracks and aside of the chipped paint, there are no discernible cracks. I checked the welds as well. I'll be removing the fork tomorrow to check for cracks there, but I think it will hold up with light riding until I trash it in a couple of months. I'm literally going to saw it in half so no one can try to salvage it or re-sell it because it's a "Pure Fix Yo".

I wanted to share because I know some people are interested in these experiments. I was surprised to tell you the truth. I really had no intention of bending the frame back (too far back in this case) and thought I was just bending the forks. Hi-ten frame is like spaghetti. My straps are worth more than the bike.

All that said, I really miss the aggressive stance of the initial crashed version of this bike. It was more fun to ride. It feels rather pedestrian now compared to how it was before. Gave me insight into the geometry I want when I decide to purchase something serious. Enjoy.



Parc HTS-2


Steel is real.


A bit too real...


Fork is stronger than this frame.


That clearance though.
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Old 07-31-19, 11:15 AM
  #36  
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Wow. Looks like you've tested the welds on that bike and they've passed.
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Old 07-31-19, 06:31 PM
  #37  
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This has been an interesting thread.
Looks like the steel stretched, and when you bent it back it didn't "unstretch", thus causing a bubble.
Hope it works out. If I was riding it, I would check the tubes often for cracks.
I see a lot of parts you can keep around as backups or even to sell if the need ever arises.
Cranks with the BB easily for $15. I'd pay $15-20 for a set of temporary cranks to put on a nice frame I bought.
Wheels for $30. Lot's of people trying to convert their bikes to fixed or put wheels on a frame that they couldn't afford yet (to later replace said wheels with sick ones).

Or you can find a really cool frame you like for money later and just throw ALL the parts on there.
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Old 07-31-19, 10:02 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by raffivegas View Post
All that said, I really miss the aggressive stance of the initial crashed version of this bike. It was more fun to ride. It feels rather pedestrian now compared to how it was before. Gave me insight into the geometry I want when I decide to purchase something serious. Enjoy.



Parc HTS-2


Steel is real.


A bit too real...


Fork is stronger than this frame.


That clearance though.
That clearance, and the overall geometry of the bike is now much closer to how it was built when it left the factory. Don't admire for a second how it rode when it was crunched up.

Originally Posted by BicycleBicycle View Post
If I was riding it, I would check the tubes often for cracks.
+1.
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Old 07-31-19, 10:13 PM
  #39  
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If it feels pedestrian now, that's just how a bike handles when it's not a crumpled wreck.
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Old 08-01-19, 12:25 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by seau grateau View Post
If it feels pedestrian now, that's just how a bike handles when it's not a crumpled wreck.
Guess I don't enjoy biking as much as I enjoy navigating crumpled wrecks. I may be on to something.
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Old 08-01-19, 09:45 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by raffivegas View Post
Guess I don't enjoy biking as much as I enjoy navigating crumpled wrecks. I may be on to something.
not onto anything thatís intelligent or remotely safe.
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Old 08-01-19, 10:00 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by seamuis View Post
not onto anything thatís intelligent or remotely safe.
thanks mom.
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Old 08-01-19, 10:52 AM
  #43  
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Meh. Nothing bad is gonna happen if you aren't jumping/bashing the bike around. Even if it does start to bend or crack, you'll notice long before deadly failure with regular visual checks. This is steel, not crabon fibbers.
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Old 08-01-19, 04:11 PM
  #44  
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Old 08-02-19, 04:50 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by raffivegas View Post
thanks mom.
I actually donít care if it falls apart under you, itís your choice to ride a structurally unsound frame. I was just pointing out the obvious.
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Old 08-02-19, 12:03 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by seamuis View Post
I was just pointing out the obvious.
You were.
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Old 08-02-19, 03:04 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by raffivegas View Post
You were.
keep the rubber side up.
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Old 08-02-19, 03:41 PM
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on the bright side now you can bar spin.
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