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Dropout Eyelet Size on Dawes Galaxy?

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Dropout Eyelet Size on Dawes Galaxy?

Old 07-15-19, 08:16 PM
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mmcc73
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Dropout Eyelet Size on Dawes Galaxy?

I'm putting a rear rack on a 70s Dawes Galaxy. It has mounting eyelets on the rear dropouts, but I'm not sure what size they are. They won't readily accept an M5 or #10-32 bolt, and M4 and #8 are both too small.

Is this an M5 hole that is gunked up and in need of tapping, or some oddball English size?
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Old 07-16-19, 04:55 AM
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Could be British Whitworth threading, being from England at the time. Just a guess.
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Old 07-16-19, 08:12 AM
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M5 x 0.8 is the most common eyelet thread. It was used by Campagnolo, Shimano and SunTour. Huret and Simplex were typically non-threaded. Given the small size it doesn't take much paint fill or foreign material to make for a tight fit. What brand are the dropouts? If they are stamped dropouts, there is a good chance they aren't tapped or were tapped by the owner.

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Old 07-16-19, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by T-Mar View Post
M5 x 0.8 is the most common eyelet thread. It was used by Campagnolo, Shimano and SunTour. Huret and Simplex were typically non-threaded. Given the small size it doesn't take much paint fill or foreign material to make for a tight fit. What brand are the dropouts? If they are stamped dropouts, there is a good chance they aren't tapped or were tapped by the owner.
They are stamped and they are definitely tapped.
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Old 07-16-19, 10:01 AM
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I went at the eyelets with an M5x.8 tap, and it seemed to clean out the threads pretty easily. Thanks!
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Old 07-16-19, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by randyjawa View Post
Could be British Whitworth threading, being from England at the time. Just a guess.
-----

+1

Raleigh employed Whitworth on their Gripfast seat binders and wedgebolts.

A definite possibility on a Dawes.

In any event, they are 5.0 X .8mm now.


-----
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Old 07-16-19, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by juvela View Post
-----

+1

Raleigh employed Whitworth on their Gripfast seat binders and wedgebolts.

A definite possibility on a Dawes.

In any event, they are 5.0 X .8mm now.


-----
All thanks to a Harbor Freight tap...

I think I'll be employing some thread locker as a bit of insurance.
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Old 07-16-19, 05:00 PM
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I'm not a big fan of threaded eyelets anymore. Even with Locktite they tend to come loose. A through bolt with a nylok nut seems to work much better. The beggest issue with this is on the drive side, where fender and rack eyelets seem to always be in close proximity to the small cog on your rear wheel.
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Old 07-16-19, 05:35 PM
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Why do rack-attaching fasteners tend to come loose more than anything else on a bike? Is it because of the weight they bear?
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Old 07-16-19, 05:55 PM
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I just freed a stuck bolt in the rear nds eyelet on the '70s Galaxy I'm working on. I used a small drill bit and just kept going at it until I removed a lot of bolt ... then I could finally unscrew it with vise grips. Whew!

.

I use the threaded Campy eyelet (without a nut) for the rear rack on my grocery getter. Every couple months I make sure those two m5 bolts are secure. I like that setup better than the necessity of a backing nut. Just seems "cleaner."
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Old 07-17-19, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by noglider View Post
Why do rack-attaching fasteners tend to come loose more than anything else on a bike? Is it because of the weight they bear?
Not just racks, fender attachments tend to loosen with time as well.
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Old 07-17-19, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by noglider View Post
Why do rack-attaching fasteners tend to come loose more than anything else on a bike? Is it because of the weight they bear?
Maybe more affected by vibration due to thin material of attachment stays?
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Old 07-17-19, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by noglider View Post
Why do rack-attaching fasteners tend to come loose more than anything else on a bike? Is it because of the weight they bear?
Is suspect so, with the weight increasing the force of vibrations that loosen the fasteners.

On a similar note, if you can, attach mudguards and racks to separate eyelets to minimize problems. That's why we used double eyelets on the Trek 720:

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Old 07-17-19, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post

On a similar note, if you can, attach mudguards and racks to separate eyelets to minimize problems. That's why we used double eyelets on the Trek 720:
But they discontinued that partially through the 84/85 run.
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Old 07-17-19, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
On a similar note, if you can, attach mudguards and racks to separate eyelets to minimize problems. That's why we used double eyelets on the Trek 720:

Originally Posted by The Golden Boy View Post
But they discontinued that partially through the 84/85 run.
Blame the bean-counters. We had to braze those second eyelets onto the dropouts.
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Old 07-17-19, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
Blame the bean-counters. We had to braze those second eyelets onto the dropouts.
It's interesting that it seemed to take place in the middle of the 84/85 run. I've seen pictures of several 84s, and at least one decaled as an 85 with 2 eyelets front and rear.
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Old 07-17-19, 05:21 PM
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Just noticed this was not mentioned. There was another weird thread used in the UK, one that Jack Taylor *sometimes* used. It's called 2BA. It's 4.7mm diameter and 0.81 pitch. So if the tap went in kinda hard - - probably you just cut them out to a size you can actually get
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