deepakvrao

It's a cassette removal tool that I already have. Is it OK with that pin?

WhyFi

Maybe.

I've come across two types of rotor lock rings: those similar a cassette lockring and those that take a BB wrench. If you have the former, what you have should be fine, though you might have to take off a hub end cap if you have QRs (that centering pin might be too thick).

TimothyH

If you have Centerlock rotors then that is probably the correct tool. It will work with a lockring with internal splines...




The other kind of Centerlock lockring is less common and, as mentioned above, requires a bottom bracket wrench. It has external splines...



Some Ultegra rotors don't use a lockring at all but attach with six T-25 bolts.

jlaw

This video might help.

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...l-installation

WhyFi

Are those less common? Out of the six disc wheels that I have, only one came with the cassette lockring type (clearance issue with the fork on my Domane), all of the rest were of the BB-type.

Bryan C. 

Not sure about them being common or not but I'm pretty sure the external splines are used for MTB hubs with a 15mm through axle. I don't think the internal style tool will fit over the larger axle. Most of the road and gravel rotors I see have the internal spline lockrings.

noodle soup

My Domane has the BB type lockring F & R.

ChinookTx

I've always used the cassette tool to remove the rotors, they are the same.

@TimothyH The second type of lockring you've pictured is to use 6 bolt rotors on a centerlock hubs (at least I think). It has another part that goes on the back of the rotor with 6 pins that stick out, and the ring tightens everything together.

deepakvrao

Heck, this is confusing.

Could anyone comment, specifically for a Canyon Endurace Ultegra Di2, what I would need? Not that I don't appreciate the help, but I'm trying to get what I need to carry with me.

Thanks guys.

noodle soup

It can be used for that purpose too, but it must be used on hubs with 15mm or larger axles.

fietsbob

through axle fork , big fat axle, is why the centerlock lockring is different ,
outside spline gains inside clearance ..


Looked IT up your fork is Through axle, Right?

SO... No you need a different tool... not the one You show.. in OP 1 ..
to get the disc off the front wheel





...

WhyFi

Taking a step back for a second, why would you need one, anyway? You're picking up the bike in Europe, riding there and then taking it back with you? At what point will you need to remove the rotors?

In any event, your best bet, if you really need to know, would be to call Canyon. The same hub will take either type of retention ring, it's just a matter of which is supplied by the manufacturer (my Assaults came with both) and whether or not there are frame clearance issues with the larger BB-type.

noodle soup

It all depends on what Canyon uses when they build your bike. The bike comes with 12mm axles, so they could use either type. All the discs I've purchased came with the cassette type lockring, so I suspect that's what Canyon will use for your bike.

deepakvrao

I would want to remove the rotors for the flight back. Brought back disc brake bike once from the US without removing the rotors, and had a bent rotor.

Lot of crap on this trip. I am also getting new Assioma sensors [on warranty], so I have to carry the tools to replace them when I land in Europe, if I want to have access to power data. My old sensors will be de activated BEFORE they ship out the new sensors.

And thanks. Never thought to ask Canyon. Duh.

ChinookTx

Care to explain what you mean by this?

fietsbob

When I ship bikes, used in cycle tours I try to pack the disc separately, so it wont get bent in shipping
with the front wheel Off.

It is possible to pack it facing inward within the main triangle .. and leave it on.. ..

happy travels..

WhyFi

Ah. Well, in your position, I'd opt to take less crap with me and deal with the chance of a dinged rotor upon arriving back home. Most likely, nothing bad will happen. If something does happen, there's a good chance that hitting it with a disc truing lever will take care of it. I understand that your experience will shape your decisions differently, but the efforts necessary for prevention sometimes outweigh the hassle of the cure, which may or may not be needed.

WhyFi

The ring that you (and Tim) posted isn't just a part of a six-bolt adapter. It most cases, it can be used interchangeably with the cassette-type lockring. On some forks/frames, like my Domane, the larger outside diameter of the BB-type ring may cause clearance issues. With some TAs, the cassette-type lockring may not have the internal diameter to pass over the endcaps of the hub; one will not fit over the endcaps of my Bontrager rear wheel, even though it's only a 12mm TA.

ChinookTx

Ohhh, I see what you mean. Thanks, I didn't know that! I actually saw the adapters for the first time 2 weeks ago. I'd only seen and used the smaller "cassette type" lockrings before..

TimothyH

I could be wrong about it being less common. I thought it was but maybe not.


-Tim-

jadocs

My Litespeed also has the BB type.

TimothyH

Well, Shimano lists SM-HB20 as the externally splined lockring for road applications using 15mm thru axles. HB20 has however, been discontinued and is only available through eBay and some German website. AKA "less common."

The only part available is the XT M8010 externally splined lockring which Shimano lists for MTB applications. I can say with certainty that the M8010 is functionally equivalent to the HB20.

Neither the HB20 nor the M8010 lockrings are only for six bolt adapters. They are standalone parts.

I went through all of this because Industry 9 Torch hubs with 15 mm thru axles would not accept the cassette lockring tool. I had to get the externally splined version which uses the bottom bracket tool.

The problem with the externally splined lockring is that it is about 4 mm thick and rubs on some forks. Mine clears by only 1 mm even though it is a Niner gravel bike with generous clearance. Some with 15 mm thru axles and close clearance forks are screwed because 15 mm thru axles won't allow the low profile internally splined lockring and the external splined lockring rubs the fork. So those of you considering 15 mm thru axles may want to stick with 6 bolt where none of this is an issue and no special tool is required - T25 and done - but you can't use the fancy Shimano finned rotors.

On a gravel bike I'd go 15 mm thru axles and standard 6 bolt rotors. On a road bike I'd go 12 mm thru axles and use the low profile lockring with fancy rotors. That's what I'm going to do moving forward and next time I need new wheels.

Richard from ProWheelBuilder.com believes that there is no advantage to 15 mm thru axles over 12 mm unless the bike has fork legs which move independently like an MTB suspension fork.

How any of this helps @deepakvrao, who is a super nice guy, I really don't know but this is a coffee fueled sermon, really important stuff so there you have it.


-Tim-

jadocs

MattTheHat 

I'll try to remember to check mine tonight. I know I used the Park Tool version to remove my cassette to take off the dork disk. On my other bike I use the same tool to remove my rotors, but I didn't even think to look at the disks on the Endurace while I was at it.


-Matt

MattTheHat