Converting MTB to Touring...shifter problems!
#1
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Converting MTB to Touring...shifter problems!
So basically the only option I have for shifters are bar end shifters? I have changed out the original MTB handlebar and installed a vintage roadbike drop bar. My MTB had grip shifters on it but they don't fit on the roadbike bar. Any other options other than the barend shifters. I have heard of hubbubs but I don't want to go that route.
#2
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What is the mountain bike? How many speeds?
I've used Microshift STI shifters with my 3x7 mountain bikes before and they worked well.
I've used Microshift STI shifters with my 3x7 mountain bikes before and they worked well.
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There are some Chinese made brake lever shifters at around $47. The barends cost about the same. You can find a cheaper set every once in awhile. I've got a set of Suntour bar ends. What freewheel or cassette have you?
#5
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Can you show me a link to a place to get them for that price? I am confused as to which I need. I see a lot of 8 and 9 speed index shifting but I see 7 speed friction shifting bar end. What do I need? I have a 3x7.
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There is a slight difference between 7 speed and 8 speed, but if you adjust so the middle cog is perfect, the inner and outer cogs will shift okay. I put 8 speed brifters on my son's bike with a 7 speed hub with no issues. There is an extra click on the shifter, but the derailleur limit screw prevents you from reaching it. I have also used 7 speed indexed shifters on an 8 speed hub by adjusting the derailleur limit screw to lock out the 11 tooth cog. With a 53 tooth chain wheel, it wasn't going to get much use anyhow.
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What model of SRAM rear derailer?
ESP (i.e. 1:1) series derailers will not work with any Shimano or "clone" shifter.
Not all 7s SRAM rear derailers are Shimano-compatible, some are.
But, you could get a good, used Shimano rear derailer for very little money, to work with most road shifters of the same number of speeds.
Does Dallas have a convenient bike co-op where you can buy parts for next to nothing?
Visually check any used derailer that you consider buying (look for the flat end of the mounting bolt to be parallel with the "cage" that holds the two pulleys). Don't buy a bent derailer!
I wouldn't kluge together 7s and 8s Shifters, derailers and freewheels. It adversely affects shifting performance, and most definitely affects how long of a service interval that the adjustments will last. In some cases (using STI shifters), a setup with a "locked-out" 8th gear position results in an inadvertant over-tensioning of the cable, with the shifter then stuck (mechanically locked-up) in the "beyond-lowest" gear position until cable tension can be manually relieved. Not good for the cable, or for the shifter!
"Finicky" 7s shifters/derailers are a big part of why SunTour went out of business, and you don't want anything to do with that. Stick with compatible components!
ESP (i.e. 1:1) series derailers will not work with any Shimano or "clone" shifter.
Not all 7s SRAM rear derailers are Shimano-compatible, some are.
But, you could get a good, used Shimano rear derailer for very little money, to work with most road shifters of the same number of speeds.
Does Dallas have a convenient bike co-op where you can buy parts for next to nothing?
Visually check any used derailer that you consider buying (look for the flat end of the mounting bolt to be parallel with the "cage" that holds the two pulleys). Don't buy a bent derailer!
I wouldn't kluge together 7s and 8s Shifters, derailers and freewheels. It adversely affects shifting performance, and most definitely affects how long of a service interval that the adjustments will last. In some cases (using STI shifters), a setup with a "locked-out" 8th gear position results in an inadvertant over-tensioning of the cable, with the shifter then stuck (mechanically locked-up) in the "beyond-lowest" gear position until cable tension can be manually relieved. Not good for the cable, or for the shifter!
"Finicky" 7s shifters/derailers are a big part of why SunTour went out of business, and you don't want anything to do with that. Stick with compatible components!
Last edited by dddd; 06-29-19 at 01:32 AM.
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I am going through this same search right now, seeking a set of these Suntour Barcons, the same kind that I use on my Bianchi in Jamaica. A few people on the for sale forum have already offeredd sets and I am in offering stage right now with one seller. So, check there first, then Ebay (good luck right now, nothing there for my interest or yours). You will get lucky and, who knows, even for a good price. I should add that a set of trigger shifters will also get the job done assuming that you can get them around the drop curves.
My favorite indexed Barcon...
My favorite indexed Barcon...
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#12
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Just maybe your new tourer would be perfectly happy with bars that fit the shifters? I know they are not drop bars, but Soma Oxfords get me pretty aero with multiple hand positions and fit MTB levers and shifters.
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Love them. But its a totally different position than drop bars. You can compensate somewhat with stem length. Plus, some older MTBs have such long top tubes that drop bars would feel too stretched-out.
#14
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What model of SRAM rear derailer?
ESP (i.e. 1:1) series derailers will not work with any Shimano or "clone" shifter.
Not all 7s SRAM rear derailers are Shimano-compatible, some are.
But, you could get a good, used Shimano rear derailer for very little money, to work with most road shifters of the same number of speeds.
Does Dallas have a convenient bike co-op where you can buy parts for next to nothing?
Visually check any used derailer that you consider buying (look for the flat end of the mounting bolt to be parallel with the "cage" that holds the two pulleys). Don't buy a bent derailer!
I wouldn't kluge together 7s and 8s Shifters, derailers and freewheels. It adversely affects shifting performance, and most definitely affects how long of a service interval that the adjustments will last. In some cases (using STI shifters), a setup with a "locked-out" 8th gear position results in an inadvertant over-tensioning of the cable, with the shifter then stuck (mechanically locked-up) in the "beyond-lowest" gear position until cable tension can be manually relieved. Not good for the cable, or for the shifter!
"Finicky" 7s shifters/derailers are a big part of why SunTour went out of business, and you don't want anything to do with that. Stick with compatible components!
ESP (i.e. 1:1) series derailers will not work with any Shimano or "clone" shifter.
Not all 7s SRAM rear derailers are Shimano-compatible, some are.
But, you could get a good, used Shimano rear derailer for very little money, to work with most road shifters of the same number of speeds.
Does Dallas have a convenient bike co-op where you can buy parts for next to nothing?
Visually check any used derailer that you consider buying (look for the flat end of the mounting bolt to be parallel with the "cage" that holds the two pulleys). Don't buy a bent derailer!
I wouldn't kluge together 7s and 8s Shifters, derailers and freewheels. It adversely affects shifting performance, and most definitely affects how long of a service interval that the adjustments will last. In some cases (using STI shifters), a setup with a "locked-out" 8th gear position results in an inadvertant over-tensioning of the cable, with the shifter then stuck (mechanically locked-up) in the "beyond-lowest" gear position until cable tension can be manually relieved. Not good for the cable, or for the shifter!
"Finicky" 7s shifters/derailers are a big part of why SunTour went out of business, and you don't want anything to do with that. Stick with compatible components!
It slipped my mind that this is totally another option! I am not married to drop bars and I agree that its seems to make me a little streteched out so what other options of handlebars are good that will fit MTB grip shifters and brakes other than the Soma Oxford?
#15
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https://tribebicycles.com/products/drop-bars
Tribe makes a 22.2 mm drop bar with a 25.4 mm stem diameter. This lets you run MTB shifters and brake levers on a drop bar with 25.4mm stem compatibility. Not sure if this is the type of bar you're looking for, but it's an option.
Tribe makes a 22.2 mm drop bar with a 25.4 mm stem diameter. This lets you run MTB shifters and brake levers on a drop bar with 25.4mm stem compatibility. Not sure if this is the type of bar you're looking for, but it's an option.
#16
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Soma Sparrow bar takes mountain bike controls, or bar end shifters as it's drilled out for those too. I run one flipped over as a sorta drop bar. Comes in different widths as well.
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#17
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https://tribebicycles.com/products/drop-bars
Tribe makes a 22.2 mm drop bar with a 25.4 mm stem diameter. This lets you run MTB shifters and brake levers on a drop bar with 25.4mm stem compatibility. Not sure if this is the type of bar you're looking for, but it's an option.
Tribe makes a 22.2 mm drop bar with a 25.4 mm stem diameter. This lets you run MTB shifters and brake levers on a drop bar with 25.4mm stem compatibility. Not sure if this is the type of bar you're looking for, but it's an option.
#18
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Yup, that's the idea, you can run your original stem. Just replace the bars, remount your original MTB components, and you're good to go. All for a $20 set of bars - not bad.
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#20
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#21
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Hubbub adapters... you can put your grip shifter on the end of the (drop) handle bar extension, on those..
you can put the grip shifter vertically on that 22.2 mm quill shaft, others have done that..
I have trekking bars on one bike , Rohloff Gripshifter.. it has 26" MTB wheels..
....
My original stem is 22.2 mm (1" quill) type stem. Will this bar just slide into my original stem or do I need to look for another stem?
I have trekking bars on one bike , Rohloff Gripshifter.. it has 26" MTB wheels..
....
Last edited by fietsbob; 07-03-19 at 09:23 AM.
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#23
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Then you just use road bike brake handles instead of the original MTB? I would like to see a picture of those shifters mounted vertically.
#24
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can offer a hand hold somewhat like the ramps behind the brake lever on road bars..
want drop bars ? go for it , no hand holding.. see if it works... by trying it.
Self Discovery.. Go..
Nitto JP has extra long quill stems for 1" & 26mm bar centers..
....
Last edited by fietsbob; 07-03-19 at 09:59 AM.
#25
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Thread Starter
https://tribebicycles.com/products/drop-bars
Tribe makes a 22.2 mm drop bar with a 25.4 mm stem diameter. This lets you run MTB shifters and brake levers on a drop bar with 25.4mm stem compatibility. Not sure if this is the type of bar you're looking for, but it's an option.
Tribe makes a 22.2 mm drop bar with a 25.4 mm stem diameter. This lets you run MTB shifters and brake levers on a drop bar with 25.4mm stem compatibility. Not sure if this is the type of bar you're looking for, but it's an option.