IAmSam

Enjoy your riding and I hope that like mine, your fixed bike never breaks...

TMonk

For the record I carry flat repair stuff, multi tool (w chain breaker and spoke wrench), KMC quick chain links and zip ties on every ride. I never need to use any of that stuff outside of flat repair, but I have it because it's worth not getting stranded. I'm not advocating not being prepared, sorry if I came off that way.

I'm just saying this is a weird thing to get worked up about. Also @DrIsotope if you've used all that in the last 30 days I'd say that's bad luck. I know you ride a lot.

DrIsotope

Self-induced bad luck, if anything. Hit a driveway lip on a bike that I had just changed the bars on a few days before, and whoop, there they went-- not enough carbon paste, so my fault, not the driveway's. Got a rock stuck between the cleat and the pedal, when I rotated to unclip, it turned the cleat about 5º, so my heel was stickin' out. And any time I go to a new saddle, the mini-adjustments are frequent for at least a few weeks-- and this particular saddle is noseless, so I was effectively starting from scratch. So I've just made it a habit to have a convenient tool at hand whenever I'm on a bike.

TMonk

Hey when it rains it pours sometimes, so I agree you gotta have that stuff that just collects dust most of the time anyway.

seamuis

TimothyH

My experience is that a new seatpost and/or saddle on an existing bike, or seatpost and saddle setup on a new bike almost always requires dialing in on the road.

1 mm difference in angle or height can mean the difference between comfort and pain. Often this can only be felt when one is warmed up after riding a while.

Adjusting steatpost height, saddle fore/aft position or angle is part of the shakedown ride ritual for me. A 4 mm wrench and a 1 hour ride through the subdivisions is SOP for NBD.

My Niner was really, really close but required a tweak to saddle tilt for optimum testicular comfort.


-Tim-

DrIsotope

Try going from a traditional saddle to tensioned leather, or from anything to noseless. I've had the ISM on there for just over 800 miles now (about 6 weeks) and I'm still moving it back and forth, up and down, fiddling with the tilt. It's such a strange sensation from the outset (completely different bones being used) combined with a different upper body position-- sometimes I'll be 40-50 miles into a ride before I decide I want to make an adjustment.

I use a Torqkey for anything carbon, but potholes and pavement lips don't care about torque values. Sometimes, I hit something just wrong enough that the bars rotate down a bit. It's nice to be able to reset that, rather than finish the ride with wonky bars.

veganbikes

Better wonky bars than wonka bars those might just melt and then you won't be able to ride home at all! Thank you thank you, I will see myself out!

daoswald

That's a pretty good pump. I have the Mini Morph and have used it for ten years, sometimes several times a ride.

One tube is enough.

Pick up one of those cheap little adhesive patch kids found at the counter in any bike store. It contains six little translucent patches that just stick on. They don't last forever, but they'll get you home. It's a shame to use your only spare tube and then get another puncture a mile down the road. Those adhesive kits are insurance. I always use a new tube as my first flat fix, and then patches for subsequent. ...and frankly I don't bother using permanent patches on tubes. I guess I should.

Tire levers: Pick up two or three of the blue ones at any bike store's front counter. I have always carried two, but after breaking one a few months back I've started carrying a spare.

If everything else on your bike is dialed in and you're never too far from civilization, you don't really have to have a multi-tool. I've stopped carrying mine because I only used it when I was making adjustments... and for those infrequent occasions I can just bring it along as needed.