Locating a fabricator
#26
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I noticed that frame has rocker dropouts, do you have them adjusted all the way back? It looks like you could get a few more millimeters per side from more dimpling, but not enough to get a 42 in there. If it were mine and I could find a way to fixture it on the mill, I would cut out a section of the stays with a hole saw and weld in a section of heavy walled tube. It could also be done without the hole saw, but would definitely take longer to get a nice fit for welding in the section of tube.
This is what I do to fit a 3" tire on a frame with a 73mm bottom bracket. Something similar would work on your frame with a smaller diameter section of tube welded into your existing stays. Finding someone willing to do it for a reasonable price is another matter.
This is what I do to fit a 3" tire on a frame with a 73mm bottom bracket. Something similar would work on your frame with a smaller diameter section of tube welded into your existing stays. Finding someone willing to do it for a reasonable price is another matter.
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I noticed that frame has rocker dropouts, do you have them adjusted all the way back? It looks like you could get a few more millimeters per side from more dimpling, but not enough to get a 42 in there. If it were mine and I could find a way to fixture it on the mill, I would cut out a section of the stays with a hole saw and weld in a section of heavy walled tube. It could also be done without the hole saw, but would definitely take longer to get a nice fit for welding in the section of tube.
The method you describe is what I was hoping someone could do: cut out a segment of the inside of the chainstays and weld a section of another tube. probably not cost-effective for someone with that kind of skill, but I was hoping to find someone local who could actually give me a quote.
at this point, the bike is becoming less and less fun for me, but I can't get something else. first world problems!
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David, when you draw up a rear triangle, do you just go measure the tire on a rim? I think I will have a problem finding a 650bx2.25" wheel/tire to measure. I usually just rely in bikecad, but I trust it for this size.
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I think he would have to ship the bike. Not that long ago, you could get a frame across the country for $30, but that doesn't seem likely now. People do modifications for far cheaper than I think makes sense, so maybe it wouldn't cost that much.
David, when you draw up a rear triangle, do you just go measure the tire on a rim? I think I will have a problem finding a 650bx2.25" wheel/tire to measure. I usually just rely in bikecad, but I trust it for this size.
David, when you draw up a rear triangle, do you just go measure the tire on a rim? I think I will have a problem finding a 650bx2.25" wheel/tire to measure. I usually just rely in bikecad, but I trust it for this size.
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It's definitely steel. The Traitor Crusade / Transition Rapture are chromoly. Look that up.
New frame is definitely not in the budget or I would have done that a long time ago. New bike is absolutely out of the question. That's why I am so desperate to make this one work cheap.
New frame is definitely not in the budget or I would have done that a long time ago. New bike is absolutely out of the question. That's why I am so desperate to make this one work cheap.
here is the logic path- the bike has some value now- modify it and the value (assuming burnt paint as you are willing to tolerate, will be so much less)
if the frame cracks post modification- you are out. The appearance of the welds just does not exhibit good control of the welding.
A real gamble to modify and have a durable machine.
A broken frame in the future will render the frame value zero.
Then you will have been out the modification cost and need to buy a frame which you state you cannot wrangle.
fair enough, these are tough times.
Why stack the odds against yourself?
Last edited by repechage; 09-10-20 at 09:50 AM.
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#32
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I know you said a new frame isn't in the budget, but, before the pandamic-induced bike shortage, it was possible to get a mtb from the early 90's for not too much money. Throwing a riser stem and drop bars on one would get you a bike that could handle much wider tires (they'd be 26-er wheels with canti brakes, though) but you could get some semi-slicks or whatever you wanted but still have a road-like position. Not always the most attractive option, but a way to do it on the semi-cheap.
#33
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your logic makes perfect sense, but the Budget Committee capped my budget for the year on bikes after I replaced a dead wheel on my mountain bike in the spring ($300) and replaced my dying brakes last month ($200).
yeah, I have been looking at old mountain bikes for a sort of "monster cross" conversion for a while now. bikes that would normally sell for $125 are now listed for $400 on Craigslist where I live. that would be a significant downgrade and require a lot of spending to get them to fit and handle with confidence, but at least it would be me on a tire size that does not suck. I have been scouring half a dozen classified sections of various places like it's a part-time job for months and nothing with a reasonable price tag comes up lately.
Last edited by mack_turtle; 09-10-20 at 10:30 AM.
#34
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The biggest problem I see, is the cost. With enough money, you can do anything. What I gather is this is a single speed steel framed flat land city bike that is being retooled to jump on the latest trend (gravel) and surprise, surprise it is having difficulty.
Anyone who could do what you want is going to charge you so much more than a new frame costs it just wouldn't be worth it, either for them to do it, or for you to have it done. It's not a simple job by any means. To be done properly, we're talking a whole new rear triangle. That costs real money, more so since the builder is starting with a work already in process and has to eat the liability of others work & complications of their quality control decisions...and this is coming from a guy who has gleefully thrown good money after bad for some pretty outrageous projects.
Simply put. Tell your significant other that it costs more to modify this bike than it does to obtain a new frame.
Below is an old 1997 Trek mountain bike gravel bike conversion. The conversion cost for new bars, shifters, cables, housing, bartape was under $250...shifters being $175 of it. It currently has 559x47c mountain bike tires on it (pictured). But, Rene Hearse Naches Pass branded GravelKing tires cost the same $71 dollars as heavy wooden Schwalbe Marathon Supreme and ride with every bit of the glorious smoothness you would expect.
My point is, you can accomplish your goal, have a lot of freedom, and a much more capable machine at less than half the cost of your current frame alone if you are even the slightest bit resourceful.
All-terrain warbike by Richard Mozzarella, on Flickr
You may even simply re-tire your old mountain bike with https://www.renehersecycles.com/product-category/components/tires/26-inch/ and be money/capability/speed ahead of where you are now.
(Rene Herse tires are made by Panaracer & since you already have Gravelkink SK's you know how good they roll. Moreorless they are made on the same production line and essentially with very little difference, each brand gets every other size, unless you choose the "extralight" which is Rene Herse exclusively.)
Anyone who could do what you want is going to charge you so much more than a new frame costs it just wouldn't be worth it, either for them to do it, or for you to have it done. It's not a simple job by any means. To be done properly, we're talking a whole new rear triangle. That costs real money, more so since the builder is starting with a work already in process and has to eat the liability of others work & complications of their quality control decisions...and this is coming from a guy who has gleefully thrown good money after bad for some pretty outrageous projects.
Simply put. Tell your significant other that it costs more to modify this bike than it does to obtain a new frame.
Below is an old 1997 Trek mountain bike gravel bike conversion. The conversion cost for new bars, shifters, cables, housing, bartape was under $250...shifters being $175 of it. It currently has 559x47c mountain bike tires on it (pictured). But, Rene Hearse Naches Pass branded GravelKing tires cost the same $71 dollars as heavy wooden Schwalbe Marathon Supreme and ride with every bit of the glorious smoothness you would expect.
My point is, you can accomplish your goal, have a lot of freedom, and a much more capable machine at less than half the cost of your current frame alone if you are even the slightest bit resourceful.
All-terrain warbike by Richard Mozzarella, on Flickr
You may even simply re-tire your old mountain bike with https://www.renehersecycles.com/product-category/components/tires/26-inch/ and be money/capability/speed ahead of where you are now.
(Rene Herse tires are made by Panaracer & since you already have Gravelkink SK's you know how good they roll. Moreorless they are made on the same production line and essentially with very little difference, each brand gets every other size, unless you choose the "extralight" which is Rene Herse exclusively.)
Last edited by base2; 09-10-20 at 10:46 AM.
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#35
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FWIW, it's a cyclocross bike that I've been using as a gravel bike, like many people do. otherwise, your advice is spot-on. I won the singlespeed 50K Castell Grind on this bike two years ago. (I was also the only person riding the 50k distance on a singlespeed that year.)I would LOVE to find an old bike that like. however, bikes like that rad conversion you shared are selling for $400+ right now and are in need of new chains and a lot of other stuff. making it survive the local terrain by switching to to tubeless and getting a singlespeed drivetrain to work poses another set of challenges. I worked in bike shops for several years so the mechanics of it are no problem, just the money. my wife understands this and her financial goals are elsewhere, so mine are too. I now have more money to play with but no bike industry discount, so I am basically in the same place.
Last edited by mack_turtle; 09-10-20 at 10:54 AM.
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FWIW, it's a cyclocross bike that I've been using as a gravel bike, like many people do. otherwise, your advice is spot-on. I won the singlespeed 50K Castell Grind on this bike two years ago. (I was also the only person riding the 50k distance on a singlespeed that year.)I would LOVE to find an old bike that like. however, bikes like that rad conversion you shared are selling for $400+ right now and are in need of new chains and a lot of other stuff. making it survive the local terrain by switching to to tubeless and getting a singlespeed drivetrain to work poses another set of challenges. I worked in bike shops for several years so the mechanics of it are no problem, just the money. my wife understands this and her financial goals are elsewhere, so mine are too. I now have more money to play with but no bike industry discount, so I am basically in the same place.
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#37
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In a genuine effort to be helpful: Would something like this work? Simply swap all the components over from your existing bike. New cables and you're done.
I've tried a few chain tensioners and I can't think of which one I hated the least, which is why I choose bikes that are designed with singlespeeding in mind. an aluminum frame and fork sounds like it will ride harsh and I'll need a headset to fit in it. knowing me, I'll compromise with something like that and grow to hate it after three rides. it's good to know deals like that are out there, though.
Last edited by mack_turtle; 09-10-20 at 11:36 AM.
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Thread closed at OPs request
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